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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,185 ✭✭✭Good loser


    I have to take out an old crush gate here. It's rusted bad at the ground, where it's about 2.5" box iron. What's the best way to take this out?

    I don't fancy going at it with a jack hammer. I've done this in the past and it's torture. There could be 5" of top concrete plus whatever concrete was put in at the bottom to hold it in place. There could be 18" of concrete there.

    (Not my decision to put non-galvanised steel into the ground like that. )

    I did that precise job with a jack hammer 10 years ago and it was torture - on a hot day too. Must have been 2 feet down when it toppled. IN fact I was so concentrated on the bottom of the hole didn't notice the pillar tilting when it decide to budge.
    You'll be so happy when you get there, it's worth the torture.
    Start early - preferably on a Monday!


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,710 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Good loser wrote: »
    I did that precise job with a jack hammer 10 years ago and it was torture - on a hot day too. Must have been 2 feet down when it toppled. IN fact I was so concentrated on the bottom of the hole didn't notice the pillar tilting when it decide to budge.
    You'll be so happy when you get there, it's worth the torture.
    Start early - preferably on a Monday!

    I did it myself with the 3 uprights on the same crush about 10 years ago. Pure torture, is right. I reckon everyone should be made spend a day on a jack hammer. You'd think twice then about putting light painted steel into concrete.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,118 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    How would you dig it out, consaw and jack hammer ?

    That's the approach I'd take too. A bit more work, but a better lasting job. Concrete saw and a kango would be the only way for that concrete.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,126 ✭✭✭Grueller


    That's the approach I'd take too. A bit more work, but a better lasting job. Concrete saw and a kango would be the only way for that concrete.

    MINI DIGGER AND BREAKER. Yes I am shouting I know but when will farmers stop willingly crippling themselves with these hardship jobs. No other profession would tackle that hardship with a kango and consaw.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,185 ✭✭✭Good loser


    I did it myself with the 3 uprights on the same crush about 10 years ago. Pure torture, is right. I reckon everyone should be made spend a day on a jack hammer. You'd think twice then about putting light painted steel into concrete.

    I did a full crush too - was relocating it - but only the front pillar had the deep concrete. Used jack hammer only - no con saw.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,403 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    Murang wrote: »
    Cut it clean at the ground get another piece of box that fits tight inside it belt in weld to old box you can leave it come up about a foot or all the way whatever suits and attach new gate.

    that's the easiest option. and possibly the best.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    that's the easiest option. and possibly the best.
    Murang wrote: »
    Cut it clean at the ground get another piece of box that fits tight inside it belt in weld to old box you can leave it come up about a foot or all the way whatever suits and attach new gate.

    Tube as an inner splint might fit better


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    How would you dig it out, consaw and jack hammer ?

    Get a big sledge and go to work.probaly the best is a machine with a breaker, a jcb id be handy to do it


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,118 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Rear discharge dung spread feeder wagon conversion


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,002 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Rear discharge dung spread feeder wagon conversion

    I thought we had some tight sheds here!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,722 ✭✭✭50HX


    :DôThat she'd must be like an oven inside with the height of the roof

    Cheaper than a diet feeder tho:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,118 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    emaherx wrote: »
    I thought we had some tight sheds here!

    If he reversed into that shed at the start to park it, then he's a better man than me!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,002 ✭✭✭emaherx


    If he reversed into that shed at the start to park it, then he's a better man than me!

    I've a similar reverse into a shed to park baler and wrapper for the winter. Shed door is a bit wider but I have to reverse wrapper in with arm at at about 45 degrees to clear the corner at top and side of door.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,118 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    emaherx wrote: »
    I've a similar reverse into a shed to park baler and wrapper for the winter. Shed door is a bit wider but I have to reverse wrapper in with arm at at about 45 degrees to clear the corner at top and side of door.

    Give me a call and I'll come down and make a bit more space for you :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,002 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Give me a call and I'll come down and make a bit more space for you :D

    It's on the cards, it's currently a long narrow cavity block shed with one entrance on the end but I'd like to knock it and rebuild a shed with RSJ's that's open on the long side. Thankfully the wrapper only goes in once a year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    What would be a good adhesive to bond steel to the glass in the side window of a cab? It's a latch for locking side window. Consists of 2 round steel discs about 50 mmø. Looks like some sort of black mastic was used before but I'm doubtful if that's the original stuff. There's no fixing holes in the glass.


  • Registered Users Posts: 192 ✭✭Ashill5


    Hi All

    Somebody had a trolley type homemade grazing reel posted on here before, by any chance would anyone have a pic of it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 760 ✭✭✭mikewest


    What would be a good adhesive to bond steel to the glass in the side window of a cab? It's a latch for locking side window. Consists of 2 round steel discs about 50 mmø. Looks like some sort of black mastic was used before but I'm doubtful if that's the original stuff. There's no fixing holes in the glass.

    Something like JB Weld epoxy or Araldite epoxy will work. The JB Weld may work better with the vibration. Both surfaces will need to be very very clean. I have got it from Amazon in the past.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    Anybody of trial of connaught agri solar pumps,they make some lofty claims about height and distance


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,002 ✭✭✭emaherx


    K.G. wrote: »
    Anybody of trial of connaught agri solar pumps,they make some lofty claims about height and distance

    No idea about them, but after seeing the performance of my cheap little DIY job, I wouldn't be surprised by big claims from high quality pumps. The FIL has an SPS pump inside are 2 pumps much larger than the one I've used.


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    emaherx wrote: »
    No idea about them, but after seeing the performance of my cheap little DIY job, I wouldn't be surprised by big claims from high quality pumps. The FIL has an SPS pump inside are 2 pumps much larger than the one I've used.

    Our project has changed some what to a well 10 ft deep with a rise of 60 ft to pump to a reserve tank 650 metres away.the idea is still that let it pump away during the day with no batteries and not worried about night.there is another possibility that we tie it into the system and use it to increase capacity on warm days and prvide flow fromthe opposite side to the existing pumps so that on warm days there would be flow to each trough from 2 sides.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,527 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    Ain't stupid if it works...


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,002 ✭✭✭emaherx


    K.G. wrote: »
    Our project has changed some what to a well 10 ft deep with a rise of 60 ft to pump to a reserve tank 650 metres away.the idea is still that let it pump away during the day with no batteries and not worried about night.there is another possibility that we tie it into the system and use it to increase capacity on warm days and prvide flow fromthe opposite side to the existing pumps so that on warm days there would be flow to each trough from 2 sides.

    I think any of the commercial setups would achieve that easily. But I'd use a battery myself, it won't add much cost and will pump on the short dull days too. Battery is also useful for electric fences. I've an old battery out of my old Defender which was no longer reliable for starting, but has been running 2 pumps and lights in my poly tunnel for the past 12 months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,710 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Ain't stupid if it works...

    I remember my father dragging a big bush around the field to do the same job.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,515 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Picked up this wee grab today.

    https://ibb.co/P99tLnQ

    It old and a bit worn but will be grand. It needs a new set of hoses amd a wee weld but should be good after that. One ram a bit corroded but I’ll Emery paper that and see how it goes.

    €120 so it’s not a huge investment.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,230 ✭✭✭Suckler


    I remember my father dragging a big bush around the field to do the same job.

    The like of whitethorn was used around here at one time


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Suckler wrote: »
    The like of whitethorn was used around here at one time

    A white or blackthorn bush was always used for reseeding when I was small. We didn’t have a chain harrow, so finding a good bush to be dragged around to cover the seed was all part of the process... :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,180 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    _Brian wrote: »
    Picked up this wee grab today.

    https://ibb.co/P99tLnQ

    It old and a bit worn but will be grand. It needs a new set of hoses amd a wee weld but should be good after that. One ram a bit corroded but I’ll Emery paper that and see how it goes.

    €120 so it’s not a huge investment.
    That is great value Brian and best of luck with it. The ram alone would cost you that if you had to buy one and those bendy tines must be about €40/€50 each. Is it the grab only you bought or was the back end loader included as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,185 ✭✭✭Good loser


    _Brian wrote: »
    Picked up this wee grab today.

    https://ibb.co/P99tLnQ

    It old and a bit worn but will be grand. It needs a new set of hoses amd a wee weld but should be good after that. One ram a bit corroded but I’ll Emery paper that and see how it goes.

    €120 so it’s not a huge investment.

    Would have been cheap at €500.


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    emaherx wrote: »
    I think any of the commercial setups would achieve that easily. But I'd use a battery myself, it won't add much cost and will pump on the short dull days too. Battery is also useful for electric fences. I've an old battery out of my old Defender which was no longer reliable for starting, but has been running 2 pumps and lights in my poly tunnel for the past 12 months.

    Yeah ill give rhem a ring next week maybe,the well is new so i must check out the yeild on too but this year not a great year for testing springs.thanks for your thoughts


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