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3d Printed Stuff Gallery
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09-04-2021 8:45pm#1Hi guys,
I thought it would be nice to start a thread where people can post images of things they've printed to inspire others and share ideas.
I'll start with a few of mine:
DK Barrel Pencil Cup: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4788054
Pocket Knife: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774553
Flying Sea Turtle https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3758189
Dumbledore Bust: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-albus-dumbledor-bust-10028
Highland Cow: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2555039
Bernie in Mittens: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4748775
Guybrush Threepwood - Monkey Island: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-guybrush-threepwood-monkey-island-55640
Heisenberg aka Walter White: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2831617
Fish Bone Wall Hanger: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:232464
All printed in PLA on an Ender 3 pro
Looking forward to seeing other peoples prints!17
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Yep good idea was thinking of posting a thread like this too, but too busy learning how to edit STL files.
Here's my first remix of a toothpick holder I did today. Not yet uploaded as a remix though, you're getting an exclusive. I shortened the platform and placed the spartan at an angle and also removed lettering. I think the original platform is a few mm off also so will probably edit and print a separate platform for him before uploading as a remix, had to scale the quiver holder a couple of times.
He's almost out of ammo, need more toothpicks!kindly agreed to have an end broken of his last arrow for the photo shoot.1 -
Here's one I was quite pleased with:
It was a bit fiddly to get right, but I printed the red parts, then the white parts, then the black. The white and red are only two layers thick so it wasn't hard to set up the slicer with enough z-hop to print them all in place.
I used a similar technique for this Raspberry Pi case (I didn't design this one):
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oscarBravo wrote: »Here's one I was quite pleased with:
It was a bit fiddly to get right, but I printed the red parts, then the white parts, then the black. The white and red are only two layers thick so it wasn't hard to set up the slicer with enough z-hop to print them all in place.
I used a similar technique for this Raspberry Pi case (I didn't design this one):
That's very cool, I haven't experimented with multi colour prints yet. They came out very well!0 -
I bought this the other day and finally got my Ender Pro 3 printing without defects. Upgraded the springs and figured out layer shifting was caused by the belt on the X axis being loose.
It turned out quite smooth.
Took 8h36 and weights 27g.
I have been reading a bit on the colouring process.
I need to give it a slight sanding first.
Then spray it with a primer a few times... would anyone care to share what they use and where to get it? I am based in Cork if that helps.
Next on to the black for this piece, I guess spray it again?
Anyone any thoughts on who would supply the best range?
The next piece is printing now, it'll take 1d4h
I have my eye on a multi tool on amazon with loads of attachments for weathering/sanding/grinding/etc, but if anyone has any tips on the processes above, I would appreciate it!
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This was two firsts for me
1: Printing with Wood PLA
2: Recovering a failed print
Wood filament is not easy for a first timer. Found out, 7 hours in, how brittle it is after the hobbed gear snapped it (wound a bit too tight for a different filament). And I didn't see it for an while.
You can see about 2/3 the way down where I had to resight the height of the print and edit the gcode to match.
Had it almost perfect except that I rotated the z babystep the wrong way, at the last, and squished 2 layers.0 -
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Here is the second part of my print.
It is 90g and took 1d 2h28
Really pleased with the quality of both pieces.
I have a spray primer for plastic and spray paints ordered for next week hopefully.
I ordered the Montana brand from the Art and Hobby shop.
I also got some spirit gum to see how that works as an adhesive to my face.
I then ordered some acrylic paints, brushes, paint palette and rotary multi tool from amazon.
I will try use magnets to connect both pieces together so they can be separated easily - for example out in the pub for halloween, I need to be able to get at my pint!
And here are the two pieces sitting one on top of the other
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Here's stuff from today:
Entitled Goose from Untitled Goose Game:
Hand painted in Acrylic - my painting skills aren't the best though.
I used white PLA and sanded the raised text lightly to reveal the white lettering.
There's a magnet glued under and into his beak so he can hold objects like key rings etc...
And finally this is Satsana Ender 3 fanduct:
The goal was not to achieve better airflow but to stop a magnet from jumping up from a print into the stock metallic cover.
For those prints I insert a pause into the g code at a certain layer height and then drop the magnet in.
I was finding the magnet kept jumping up out of the print so this was the only solution to prevent it from happening.
Tomorrow I'll post up an example print that uses a magnet inside.1 -
will post more later, but to start
goodl odl Darth, looks small here, but is about 45cm tall. printed in 6 parts i think
and the mount/cooling duct for my hemera . mount is pla(orange), the duct(red) is PETG for better heat performance
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Tomorrow I'll post up an example print that uses a magnet inside.
So here's the print with the magnets in it,
Toothless "herb" Grinder
Its for a friend I promise.
Happy 420!1 -
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My first foray into printing with flexible filament (TPU):
The part on the right is the original, a sort of gasket for a toilet seat hinge. It was originally quite soft, but got very brittle with age and eventually broke. I printed the replacement once in PLA to test-fit it, adjusted one dimension by half a millimetre, and printed in TPU. I'm really please with the result, it's flexible and slightly squishy, but very robust.2 -
Spent about a week designing this and learning blender while I was at it. It's a magnet enclosure to hold/store the excessive amount of tools accumulated.
v1.0.3 at the moment. A few things to fix in the STL still. The first design was to spec for these magnets but as it turned out the product description is not the most accurate so had to redo measurements so the magnet would be nice and snug, the pack of 4 slightly differ in size also.
The second design I tried to incorporate tabs for a better fit around the magnet as the design was relying on screws in the wall to help keep the magnet in the enclosure while removing tools. This failed as the tabs were too small to print (may work on a smaller nozzle. 0.4 doesn't print them). revision 3: to give better adhesion I'm using double sided tape (did not want to use glue) and so far so good. Seems to hold the magnet better, when removing tools everything stays put. As I said though the measurements are a bit off from magnet to magnet and the second one is a tighter fit so might not need double sided tape.
Just so happens there is enough room for the 4 so will probably expand it at a later time.
Also printed plugs for the screws which are not too good as they snap off when fastening the plugs into plasterboard but still work to grasp the screw.
The needle is great for removing raft, skirt etc0 -
Will be printing this tomorrow.
Spent a while thinking on a design to get better use out of the needle then it dawned on me I already printed something that would work great. This thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:731086 would just need a good grip for it so combining with this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4374118
The needle is off a sewing* machine and is probably the most used bit of kit, it just gets a start on the lift where I can slide something under or grip the print, also great for skirt and whatever that line is that gets printed on the left of the bed, seriously how does one disable that?
Uploaded both to thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/coirt/designs0 -
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Continuing my trend of mostly printing useful stuff around the house, we had a blackout blind on one of our Fakro rooflights that wouldn't stay closed. I modeled and printed a replacement for the damaged part, and it worked perfectly first time.
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Designed and printed an adapter for hoover attachments for a Tower rvl30 22.2v Battery powered hoover, which is basically as good as a sweeping brush, just about good on carpet but needs a full charge to lift light material. It downsizes so attachments off a Nilfisk hoover fit but should resize for others as it steps down (would just need to scale the bottom 2 vertices)
I originally intended to include the indent, seen on the left model which latches onto the tube, but it messed up the model when I did a difference Boolean and was difficult to fix. I had printed a few layers of both ends to check on the radius and it didn't need the indent to secure it so the one on the right was used which works great.1 -
Back when I was developing games I had a load of 3D models made for games that ultimately never saw the light of day.
One of them that I thought came out well for something that should have been made in CAD rather than box modelled was this Currach. I wanted to see how well something that I modelled with shortcuts that meant it was never intended to be printed would hold up. Other than Cura screaming blue murder about non-manifold parts, and a hole in the bottom that means it won't actually float I was surprised that it came out well enough. Missing detail compared to the real thing obviously.
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PCB box , individual parts. Made this with OpenSCAD with the help of the round-anything library. The likes of blender melt my head and I find making it through code more intuitive.
Black version
Pulley - went slightly over the limit as to what I can get away with without using supports.
18650 holder for charging - from Thingyverse
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Nice. I am going to try printing some of these feckers next and shove the $80 AUD + postage + import charges into my pocket 0
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More garage stuff.
Do a bit of amateur machining so used the 3D printer to convert a small bench-top milling machine to CNC.
First printed temporary motor mounts (black, grey and yellow, remains of PLA rolls) for a basic CNC setup. Once done, CNC milled permanent aluminum and 3D printed motor brackets (blue, ABS for better strength) for final CNC conversion/spindle motor drive upgrade. All parts modeled with Fusion 360, sliced with Cura, printed with a Creality Ender 3 Pro in an enclosure.
Second stage conversion parts CNC machined and 3D printed
“Follow the trend lines, not the headlines,”
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I printed this cover for behind the steering wheel of my boat but when I went to install it there was no way I could get the wheel off. Narrowly avoided making sh1t of the whole thing trying to remove it. So went back to the drawing board to come up with a version that didnt't require removing the wheel
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