i'm only happy when it rains (chain lube thread)

harringtonp · 23-04-2021 4:40pm #1

Guys. Do people here use GT85 as an actual chain lubricant ?

loyatemu · 23-04-2021 5:00pm

harringtonp wrote: »

Guys. Do people here use GT85 as an actual chain lubricant ?

I have done (and WD40) - it'll work but doesn't last long as it's very light.

harringtonp · 23-04-2021 5:05pm

loyatemu wrote: »

I have done (and WD40) - it'll work but doesn't last long as it's very light.

Ask because on the GT85 bottle it does say it is a lubricant too. I'm not sure of WD 40 claims that

CramCycle · 23-04-2021 5:36pm

harringtonp wrote: »

Ask because on the GT85 bottle it does say it is a lubricant too. I'm not sure of WD 40 claims that

WD40 isn't but will do for a short while in a pinch, GT85 is and does the job fine. I find it quick and easy and blasts off the dirt as well so a good all rounder on the commuter. If I am not in a rush though I would give a proper clean and use those not quite wax dry lubes which work very well.

Great for cleaning a cassette in situ as well. Stick the red straw on and you can blast it clean in about 20seconds.

magicbastarder · 23-04-2021 5:46pm

If you want to clean a cassette, you can't beat a toothbrush dipped in petrol.

byrnem31 · 23-04-2021 11:56pm

I was using Gt85 outside last week and the spray go onto my pads. Should have used the straw thing on it. Needed new pads.

Other than that, I use it all the time as lube and it works fine.

Seth Brundle · 24-04-2021 12:06am

byrnem31 wrote: »

I was using Gt85 outside last week and the spray go onto my pads. Should have used the straw thing on it. Needed new pads.

Could you not have sanded down the pads a bit?

AndrewJRenko · 24-04-2021 12:32am

magicbastarder wrote: »

If you want to clean a cassette, you can't beat a toothbrush dipped in petrol.

Taste is a bit rough afterwards though.

EddieN75 · 24-04-2021 1:15am

AndrewJRenko wrote: »

Taste is a bit rough afterwards though.

I don't think that the poster should use the toothbrush as part of his dental routine any more. It might be better to buy some multipack of cheap toothbrushes for this purpose. I have an electric toothbrush but the heads are too expensive to use for anything other than my teeth.

Buzwaldo · 24-04-2021 1:38am

EddieN75 wrote: »

I don't think that the poster should use the toothbrush as part of his dental routine any more. It might be better to buy some multipack of cheap toothbrushes for this purpose. I have an electric toothbrush but the heads are too expensive to use for anything other than my teeth.

You mean you think more of your teeth than your bike?? You’re in the wrong forum!

byrnem31 · 24-04-2021 7:41am

Seth Brundle wrote: »

Could you not have sanded down the pads a bit?

I left it in the shop last week to get aero bars fitted and they told me when checking it over, they noticed the pads were destroyed in an oily substance.

I really went to town on it with the Gt85. They changed them there and then for me. I have to be more careful with it. I was a motorcyclist for 25 years but sold my motorbike last year to get into cycling. I have a habit of overdoing it with lubes and oil as its a habit from working on the motorbike.

The mechanic advised bicycles only need a few drops of oil or a small bit of grease as the parts are not under the same pressures as a motorcycle.

The second last time it was in the shop, the bike was covered in grease all around the chain and cassette and I ruined that set of pads too. It's all a learning curve.

MayoSalmon · 24-04-2021 8:41am

byrnem31 wrote: »

I left it in the shop last week to get aero bars fitted and they told me when checking it over, they noticed the pads were destroyed in an oily substance.

I really went to town on it with the Gt85. They changed them there and then for me. I have to be more careful with it. I was a motorcyclist for 25 years but sold my motorbike last year to get into cycling. I have a habit of overdoing it with lubes and oil as its a habit from working on the motorbike.

The mechanic advised bicycles only need a few drops of oil or a small bit of grease as the parts are not under the same pressures as a motorcycle.

The second last time it was in the shop, the bike was covered in grease all around the chain and cassette and I ruined that set of pads too. It's all a learning curve.

It might hard for you considering the motorbike history but chain wax will set you free

Mechanical parts don't "need" oil and grease like we have been programmed to think for years.

Chain wax applied properly will leave your chain spotless

Alek · 24-04-2021 12:48pm

Chain wax applied properly will leave your chain spotless

Until the first rain.....

Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......

MayoSalmon · 24-04-2021 1:11pm

Alek wrote: »

Until the first rain.....

Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......

I have a winter bike with a oily chain on it for wet days...but honestly couldn't tell ya the last time I went out in the wet because that's what Zwift is for

Alek · 24-04-2021 1:51pm

Fair enough, if staring at screen while cycling (and getting wet anyway) floats your boat.

I'd rather get wet and stare at this

CramCycle · 24-04-2021 2:31pm

Alek wrote: »

Until the first rain.....

Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......

I would disagree, it may have to be reapplied more often but dry lube won't wash out after one spill of rain.

Alek · 24-04-2021 4:54pm

I would disagree, it may have to be reapplied more often but dry lube won't wash out after one spill of rain.

I had low quality wet lubes (Shimano Wet Lube, Lidl's MucOff Wet to name the worst) disappear within a few hours of light/medium rain.

Maybe it's my wider tyres > more spray to the drivetrain? But still, wax-based lubes (tried one or two) failed me much quicker.

MayoSalmon · 24-04-2021 5:48pm

Alek wrote: »

Fair enough, if staring at screen while cycling (and getting wet anyway) floats your boat.

I'd rather get wet and stare at this

I suffer from the Raynaud's so that's a definite no from me..

wheelo01 · 24-04-2021 8:11pm

MayoSalmon wrote: »

I suffer from the Raynaud's so that's a definite no from me..

Alek doesn't suffer - full stop

Alek · 24-04-2021 9:57pm

I suffer from the Raynaud's

Uh, it's definitely a deal-breaker for cycling in foul weather. Sorry!

CramCycle · 24-04-2021 11:20pm

Alek wrote: »

I had low quality wet lubes (Shimano Wet Lube, Lidl's MucOff Wet to name the worst) disappear within a few hours of light/medium rain.

Maybe it's my wider tyres > more spray to the drivetrain? But still, wax-based lubes (tried one or two) failed me much quicker.

Maybe, I used White Lightening dry lube and found it lasted a good while. This said, in all my years cycling only once has a chain run completely dry. I ended up in a community centre in Wales pouring sunflower oil on the chain just to get it moving again after f*ck knows how many hours of torrential rain. I have ridden out in torrents for hours in the past with wet or dry lube and no one shower bar that one caused my chain to go dry, but I would relube quite often.

Muc off is gunk though, only sticks to itself rather than the chain I imagine.

Alek · 25-04-2021 12:08am

chain run completely dry

just to get it moving again

I think we may have a different definition of "dry"...

If I can hear it, it's dry to me.

CianRyan · 25-04-2021 12:49am

Alek wrote: »

I think we may have a different definition of "dry"... If I can hear it, it's dry to me.

You'd hate my bike, a fresh coat and you hear every stroke. :pac:

Mr. Cats · 25-04-2021 8:40am

CramCycle wrote: »

Maybe, I used White Lightening dry lube and found it lasted a good while.

What do you use/recommend?

iwillhtfu · 25-04-2021 9:09am

This is supposed to be the new best in between of standard lub v wax coating. https://absoluteblack.cc/graphenlube-worlds-best-chain-lubricant-coating/

A good reference site Zero Friction https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/

I ordered some out of curiosity more than anything but also 3-10w gain, it all counts

magicbastarder · 25-04-2021 9:19am

i was thinking at 'up to' 1800km per application, they must sell very few bottles. then i read "You need min 2x 14ml bottles (or a big one) to do initial immersion." - i.e. €34 just to apply a fresh coat.
you'd replace the chain for that price.

iwillhtfu · 25-04-2021 9:27am

magicbastarder wrote: »

i was thinking at 'up to' 1800km per application, they must sell very few bottles. then i read "You need min 2x 14ml bottles (or a big one) to do initial immersion." - i.e. €34 just to apply a fresh coat.
you'd replace the chain for that price.

Oooh I mised that bit. I guess I'll just do the side that touches the chainset so lol

Seaswimmer · 25-04-2021 10:56am

Diesel all the way. Pour into chain cleaner and run chain through it as usual. Wipe dry. Pour dirty diesel into a tin (it dosent evaporate) Repeat as required. The dirt and sediment in your tin will settle leaving you with clean diesel for the next application. I got this advice in the 70's from a seasoned cyclist and have being using it all my life. Reasonably environmentally friendly as you are only using a tiny amount of diesel each time and not disposing of any leftover diesel.
Eventually after a few years you may have to dispose of a few cubic centimetres of dirt and sediment.

dinneenp · 05-05-2021 10:57pm

Seaswimmer wrote: »

Diesel all the way. Pour into chain cleaner and run chain through it as usual. Wipe dry. Pour dirty diesel into a tin (it dosent evaporate) Repeat as required. The dirt and sediment in your tin will settle leaving you with clean diesel for the next application. I got this advice in the 70's from a seasoned cyclist and have being using it all my life. Reasonably environmentally friendly as you are only using a tiny amount of diesel each time and not disposing of any leftover diesel.
Eventually after a few years you may have to dispose of a few cubic centimetres of dirt and sediment.

Any difference in using diesel or petrol? (I have petrol in a Jerry can for the lawn mower).
Read this on Road.cc, similar to above-
used white spirit and an old apple juice bottle: add the chain and the solvent, leave it for half an hour and give it a good old shake. For a new chain one cycle is enough, but for a dirty chain it's best to continue the process until the white spirit is staying mostly clear. After that you need to let the solvent evaporate,

magicbastarder · 05-05-2021 10:59pm

have not tried diesel, but petrol will strip a chain dry. you need to use something reasonably thick/durable to recoat the links after using it.

dinneenp · 05-05-2021 11:18pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

have not tried diesel, but petrol will strip a chain dry. you need to use something reasonably thick/durable to recoat the links after using it.

Thanks. Which brings me to my next question. Regardless of diesel or some specific chain cleaner product, any recommendations for what to apply after cleaning?

CramCycle · 06-05-2021 12:22am

dinneenp wrote: »

After that you need to let the solvent evaporate,

For the more concerned about the environment, do it in a clear bottle and let it settle, you can then decant the solvent into a clean bottle to use again.

cletus · 06-05-2021 9:56am

CramCycle wrote: »

For the more concerned about the environment, do it in a clear bottle and let it settle, you can then decant the solvent into a clean bottle to use again.

I presumed he meant let whatever solvent that remained on the chain evaporate before reapplying lubricant, rather than let the whole bottle of solvent evaporate

CramCycle · 06-05-2021 10:21am

cletus wrote: »

I presumed he meant let whatever solvent that remained on the chain evaporate before reapplying lubricant, rather than let the whole bottle of solvent evaporate

Must remember to drink coffee before replying to people in future.

magicbastarder · 06-05-2021 10:49am

dinneenp wrote: »

Thanks. Which brings me to my next question. Regardless of diesel or some specific chain cleaner product, any recommendations for what to apply after cleaning?

i know lots of people don't like it, but i use muc-off wet as a 'base' lube as it's gloopy. you really just want to make sure it only wets the links and not the plates. i top up with a lighter lube then.

07-05-2021 1:05pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Maybe, I used White Lightening dry lube and found it lasted a good while. This said, in all my years cycling only once has a chain run completely dry. I ended up in a community centre in Wales pouring sunflower oil on the chain just to get it moving again after f*ck knows how many hours of torrential rain. I have ridden out in torrents for hours in the past with wet or dry lube and no one shower bar that one caused my chain to go dry, but I would relube quite often.

I spent a lot of my late teens lubricated on white lightening.

I use nothing but this from Halfords and so far I have not had any reason to complain.

I too would give a quick clean and relube quite often, especially in the winter months.

doozerie · 13-05-2021 10:48pm

Alek wrote: »

I had low quality wet lubes (Shimano Wet Lube, Lidl's MucOff Wet to name the worst) disappear within a few hours of light/medium rain.

Maybe it's my wider tyres > more spray to the drivetrain? But still, wax-based lubes (tried one or two) failed me much quicker.

If you use melted wax for your chain it adheres to the metal. That's "real" dry lube, and rain alone won't wash it out.

Rain can carry contaminants inside the chain though, depending on volume of rain and conditions generally, which is exactly the thing you are looking to avoid if using a dry lube. So the general advice is to re-wax your chain, after cleaning it first, if that happens. Cleaning it is easy, boil the kettle, pour the water into container, remove chain and swish it round in the water to get rid of contaminants plus old wax (the wax melts at approx 120C), dry fully before re-waxing.

Dry lubes that you buy as a liquid probably don't adhere to the chain as well, at least that's my guess. But still shouldn't wash out easily as they won't be water soluble once dry. They require the appropriate application process though - for the ones I've seen that means applying to the chain and then leaving it overnight for the solvent to dissolve and leave the lubricant behind. I suspect that a common mistake is to use the chain too soon after application and then it's far more likely that rain will wash the lube away in its wet form.

doozerie · 13-05-2021 10:52pm

dinneenp wrote: »

Any difference in using diesel or petrol? (I have petrol in a Jerry can for the lawn mower).
Read this on Road.cc, similar to above-
used white spirit and an old apple juice bottle: add the chain and the solvent, leave it for half an hour and give it a good old shake. For a new chain one cycle is enough, but for a dirty chain it's best to continue the process until the white spirit is staying mostly clear. After that you need to let the solvent evaporate,

White spirits leaves behind a residue, which is a problem if you plan to wax the chain as wax needs bare metal to adhere to. Might not pose a problem for wet lubes, though personally I'd prefer to avoid anything that might interact with the lube.

Rinsing a chain in methylated spirits will clear it of the white spirits residue, and leaves nothing behind on the chain.

magicbastarder · 13-05-2021 11:57pm

doozerie wrote: »

Cleaning it is easy, boil the kettle, pour the water into container, remove chain and swish it round in the water to get rid of contaminants plus old wax (the wax melts at approx 120C), dry fully before re-waxing.

what wax do you use? most candlewax, etc., will melt a good bit below that, and at 120C boiling water wouldn't melt it.

doozerie · 14-05-2021 9:39am

magicbastarder wrote: »

what wax do you use? most candlewax, etc., will melt a good bit below that, and at 120C boiling water wouldn't melt it.

I use paraffin wax. My figure of 120C there is wrong, not sure where I plucked that figure from, the real figure is lower.

My kettle's claimed max temperature is 100C and that easily melted the wax on my chain.

Seaswimmer · 14-05-2021 4:10pm

dinneenp wrote: »

Thanks. Which brings me to my next question. Regardless of diesel or some specific chain cleaner product, any recommendations for what to apply after cleaning?

That is the whole point of diesel. It cleans and lubricates.. If you chain is very dirty then use 2 lots of diesel. 1 to clean and one to lubricate but one application does me 99% of the time..
As someone pointed out petrol will leave your chain spotless but dry..

magicbastarder · 15-05-2021 11:05am

i just watched the GCN+ documentary on WWI and bikes.
sperm whale oil, there's one i hadn't thought of before.

i'm only happy when it rains (chain lube thread)

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