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i'm only happy when it rains (chain lube thread)

  • 23-04-2021 3:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,414 ✭✭✭ harringtonp


    Guys. Do people here use GT85 as an actual chain lubricant ?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 13,235 ✭✭✭✭ loyatemu


    Guys. Do people here use GT85 as an actual chain lubricant ?

    I have done (and WD40) - it'll work but doesn't last long as it's very light.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,414 ✭✭✭ harringtonp


    loyatemu wrote: »
    I have done (and WD40) - it'll work but doesn't last long as it's very light.

    Ask because on the GT85 bottle it does say it is a lubricant too. I'm not sure of WD 40 claims that


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 22,089 Mod ✭✭✭✭ CramCycle


    Ask because on the GT85 bottle it does say it is a lubricant too. I'm not sure of WD 40 claims that

    WD40 isn't but will do for a short while in a pinch, GT85 is and does the job fine. I find it quick and easy and blasts off the dirt as well so a good all rounder on the commuter. If I am not in a rush though I would give a proper clean and use those not quite wax dry lubes which work very well.

    Great for cleaning a cassette in situ as well. Stick the red straw on and you can blast it clean in about 20seconds.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 42,364 Mod ✭✭✭✭ magicbastarder


    If you want to clean a cassette, you can't beat a toothbrush dipped in petrol.


  • Registered Users Posts: 794 ✭✭✭ byrnem31


    I was using Gt85 outside last week and the spray go onto my pads. Should have used the straw thing on it. Needed new pads.

    Other than that, I use it all the time as lube and it works fine.


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  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 32,817 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Seth Brundle


    byrnem31 wrote: »
    I was using Gt85 outside last week and the spray go onto my pads. Should have used the straw thing on it. Needed new pads.
    Could you not have sanded down the pads a bit?


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,455 ✭✭✭✭ AndrewJRenko


    If you want to clean a cassette, you can't beat a toothbrush dipped in petrol.

    Taste is a bit rough afterwards though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 467 ✭✭ EddieN75


    Taste is a bit rough afterwards though.

    I don't think that the poster should use the toothbrush as part of his dental routine any more. It might be better to buy some multipack of cheap toothbrushes for this purpose. I have an electric toothbrush but the heads are too expensive to use for anything other than my teeth.


  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭ Buzwaldo


    EddieN75 wrote: »
    I don't think that the poster should use the toothbrush as part of his dental routine any more. It might be better to buy some multipack of cheap toothbrushes for this purpose. I have an electric toothbrush but the heads are too expensive to use for anything other than my teeth.

    You mean you think more of your teeth than your bike?? You’re in the wrong forum!


  • Registered Users Posts: 794 ✭✭✭ byrnem31


    Could you not have sanded down the pads a bit?


    I left it in the shop last week to get aero bars fitted and they told me when checking it over, they noticed the pads were destroyed in an oily substance.

    I really went to town on it with the Gt85. They changed them there and then for me. I have to be more careful with it. I was a motorcyclist for 25 years but sold my motorbike last year to get into cycling. I have a habit of overdoing it with lubes and oil as its a habit from working on the motorbike.

    The mechanic advised bicycles only need a few drops of oil or a small bit of grease as the parts are not under the same pressures as a motorcycle.

    The second last time it was in the shop, the bike was covered in grease all around the chain and cassette and I ruined that set of pads too. It's all a learning curve.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭ MayoSalmon


    byrnem31 wrote: »
    I left it in the shop last week to get aero bars fitted and they told me when checking it over, they noticed the pads were destroyed in an oily substance.

    I really went to town on it with the Gt85. They changed them there and then for me. I have to be more careful with it. I was a motorcyclist for 25 years but sold my motorbike last year to get into cycling. I have a habit of overdoing it with lubes and oil as its a habit from working on the motorbike.

    The mechanic advised bicycles only need a few drops of oil or a small bit of grease as the parts are not under the same pressures as a motorcycle.

    The second last time it was in the shop, the bike was covered in grease all around the chain and cassette and I ruined that set of pads too. It's all a learning curve.

    It might hard for you considering the motorbike history but chain wax will set you free

    Mechanical parts don't "need" oil and grease like we have been programmed to think for years.

    Chain wax applied properly will leave your chain spotless


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭ Alek


    Chain wax applied properly will leave your chain spotless

    Until the first rain.....

    Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭ MayoSalmon


    Alek wrote: »
    Until the first rain.....

    Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......

    I have a winter bike with a oily chain on it for wet days...but honestly couldn't tell ya the last time I went out in the wet because that's what Zwift is for


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭ Alek


    Fair enough, if staring at screen while cycling (and getting wet anyway) floats your boat.

    I'd rather get wet and stare at this

    551233.jpg


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 22,089 Mod ✭✭✭✭ CramCycle


    Alek wrote: »
    Until the first rain.....

    Even dry lubes will wash out when it starts raining in the middle of your 100k spin leaving you with a squeaky chain and rapidly wearing out drivetrain for the rest of it. But you can easy reapply oil; try this with wax on your coffee stop......

    I would disagree, it may have to be reapplied more often but dry lube won't wash out after one spill of rain.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭ Alek


    I would disagree, it may have to be reapplied more often but dry lube won't wash out after one spill of rain.

    I had low quality wet lubes (Shimano Wet Lube, Lidl's MucOff Wet to name the worst) disappear within a few hours of light/medium rain.

    Maybe it's my wider tyres > more spray to the drivetrain? But still, wax-based lubes (tried one or two) failed me much quicker.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭ MayoSalmon


    Alek wrote: »
    Fair enough, if staring at screen while cycling (and getting wet anyway) floats your boat.

    I'd rather get wet and stare at this

    551233.jpg

    I suffer from the Raynaud's so that's a definite no from me..


  • Registered Users Posts: 597 ✭✭✭ wheelo01


    MayoSalmon wrote: »
    I suffer from the Raynaud's so that's a definite no from me..

    Alek doesn't suffer - full stop :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭ Alek


    I suffer from the Raynaud's

    Uh, it's definitely a deal-breaker for cycling in foul weather. Sorry!


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 22,089 Mod ✭✭✭✭ CramCycle


    Alek wrote: »
    I had low quality wet lubes (Shimano Wet Lube, Lidl's MucOff Wet to name the worst) disappear within a few hours of light/medium rain.

    Maybe it's my wider tyres > more spray to the drivetrain? But still, wax-based lubes (tried one or two) failed me much quicker.

    Maybe, I used White Lightening dry lube and found it lasted a good while. This said, in all my years cycling only once has a chain run completely dry. I ended up in a community centre in Wales pouring sunflower oil on the chain just to get it moving again after f*ck knows how many hours of torrential rain. I have ridden out in torrents for hours in the past with wet or dry lube and no one shower bar that one caused my chain to go dry, but I would relube quite often.

    Muc off is gunk though, only sticks to itself rather than the chain I imagine.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭ Alek


    chain run completely dry
    just to get it moving again

    I think we may have a different definition of "dry"... ;) If I can hear it, it's dry to me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,720 ✭✭✭✭ CianRyan


    Alek wrote: »
    I think we may have a different definition of "dry"... ;) If I can hear it, it's dry to me.

    You'd hate my bike, a fresh coat and you hear every stroke. :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭ Mr. Cats


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Maybe, I used White Lightening dry lube and found it lasted a good while.

    What do you use/recommend?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,961 ✭✭✭ iwillhtfu


    This is supposed to be the new best in between of standard lub v wax coating. https://absoluteblack.cc/graphenlube-worlds-best-chain-lubricant-coating/

    A good reference site Zero Friction https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/

    I ordered some out of curiosity more than anything but also 3-10w gain, it all counts :D

    absluteblack-graphenlube-graphene-wax-lubricant-1.webp


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 42,364 Mod ✭✭✭✭ magicbastarder


    i was thinking at 'up to' 1800km per application, they must sell very few bottles. then i read "You need min 2x 14ml bottles (or a big one) to do initial immersion." - i.e. €34 just to apply a fresh coat.
    you'd replace the chain for that price.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,961 ✭✭✭ iwillhtfu


    i was thinking at 'up to' 1800km per application, they must sell very few bottles. then i read "You need min 2x 14ml bottles (or a big one) to do initial immersion." - i.e. €34 just to apply a fresh coat.
    you'd replace the chain for that price.

    Oooh I mised that bit. I guess I'll just do the side that touches the chainset so lol :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,957 ✭✭✭ Seaswimmer


    Diesel all the way. Pour into chain cleaner and run chain through it as usual. Wipe dry. Pour dirty diesel into a tin (it dosent evaporate) Repeat as required. The dirt and sediment in your tin will settle leaving you with clean diesel for the next application. I got this advice in the 70's from a seasoned cyclist and have being using it all my life. Reasonably environmentally friendly as you are only using a tiny amount of diesel each time and not disposing of any leftover diesel.
    Eventually after a few years you may have to dispose of a few cubic centimetres of dirt and sediment.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,670 ✭✭✭ dinneenp


    Seaswimmer wrote: »
    Diesel all the way. Pour into chain cleaner and run chain through it as usual. Wipe dry. Pour dirty diesel into a tin (it dosent evaporate) Repeat as required. The dirt and sediment in your tin will settle leaving you with clean diesel for the next application. I got this advice in the 70's from a seasoned cyclist and have being using it all my life. Reasonably environmentally friendly as you are only using a tiny amount of diesel each time and not disposing of any leftover diesel.
    Eventually after a few years you may have to dispose of a few cubic centimetres of dirt and sediment.

    Any difference in using diesel or petrol? (I have petrol in a Jerry can for the lawn mower).
    Read this on Road.cc, similar to above-
    used white spirit and an old apple juice bottle: add the chain and the solvent, leave it for half an hour and give it a good old shake. For a new chain one cycle is enough, but for a dirty chain it's best to continue the process until the white spirit is staying mostly clear. After that you need to let the solvent evaporate,


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 42,364 Mod ✭✭✭✭ magicbastarder


    have not tried diesel, but petrol will strip a chain dry. you need to use something reasonably thick/durable to recoat the links after using it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,670 ✭✭✭ dinneenp


    have not tried diesel, but petrol will strip a chain dry. you need to use something reasonably thick/durable to recoat the links after using it.

    Thanks. Which brings me to my next question. Regardless of diesel or some specific chain cleaner product, any recommendations for what to apply after cleaning?


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