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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

18485878990106

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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    EDIT sorry this is for swapping game board :

    You just need to swap the jamma connector on your cab onto a new board.

    Its the big black connector that goes onto that blue board.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Keithchap wrote: »
    I also found the PCB dangling in the bottom compartment of the cabinet. Could that be an issue perhaps?

    jwvtEYa.jpg

    Here's the manual :
    https://www.arcadomaniashop.com/WebRoot/Store/Shops/es115644_ArcadomaniaShop/533B/3111/E3F2/AEF0/22F3/50ED/8963/F3F5/2019_in_1_game_king_manual.pdf


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,275 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Keithchap wrote: »
    I found the connector for the monitor, looks like I need a 9 pin VGA, I have a box full of old cables in the attic, I'd be surprised if there wasn't one there, I never throw out cables!

    ]

    Great, yeah I'd say the first port of call is connecting the VGA out on that game board up to an external monitor, see what it outputs on another screen and if you're getting a similar issue.

    I wonder does that PC game board output different resolutions? for some reason be outputting a signal the monitor doesn't like? (I see there's a 'video' button on that blue remote board for it that you just found)

    That's excellent that you found where the sync pot is by the way, would be worth giving that a little bit of a twist just on the off chance that it's causing the problem if the arcade game board doesn't turn out to be the problem. If it doesn't change anything then just make sure to twist it back to the previous position.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse




  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    Thanks for the videos and manual.On the back of that I found a manual, same, just a little easier to read:

    http://www.arcadomaniashop.com/WebRoot/Store/Shops/es115644_ArcadomaniaShop/4C22/104A/AB1E/EC41/3A57/50ED/8961/D917/MultiGameBox_174__-_Service_Book.pdf

    Watching the videos the one the guy is reviewing in the one in the case, I seem to have the other slightly cheaper one that doesn't have the case. I can't find all of the switches he refers to, perhaps I need to physically remove the board to see everything on it, it's at a very tricky angle to work with atm.

    One thing I am getting more worried about is the power being sent to each component. When I connected back up the PSU it seemed to only connect one way, although it is not a perfect match as there are 4 pins hanging off it. What I am trying to figure out now is the Voltage for the board wires, the wires don't seem to correlate to the colours on the PSU.

    Edit to add, I managed to test the yellow and red wires on the board itself as some are accessible, they match the colours as per the PSU.

    r8BhIPi.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Thanks for the videos and manual.On the back of that I found a manual, same, just a little easier to read:

    http://www.arcadomaniashop.com/WebRoot/Store/Shops/es115644_ArcadomaniaShop/4C22/104A/AB1E/EC41/3A57/50ED/8961/D917/MultiGameBox_174__-_Service_Book.pdf

    Watching the videos the one the guy is reviewing in the one in the case, I seem to have the other slightly cheaper one that doesn't have the case. I can't find all of the switches he refers to, perhaps I need to physically remove the board to see everything on it, it's at a very tricky angle to work with atm.

    One thing I am getting more worried about is the power being sent to each component. When I connected back up the PSU it seemed to only connect one way, although it is not a perfect match as there are 4 pins hanging off it. What I am trying to figure out now is the Voltage for the board wires, the wires don't seem to correlate to the colours on the PSU.

    Edit to add, I managed to test the yellow and red wires on the board itself as some are accessible, they match the colours as per the PSU.

    r8BhIPi.jpg

    What did the old power supply look like connecting there?
    Its possible you just need to press MODE on that small board to cycle through the resolutions.


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Great, yeah I'd say the first port of call is connecting the VGA out on that game board up to an external monitor, see what it outputs on another screen and if you're getting a similar issue.

    I wonder does that PC game board output different resolutions? for some reason be outputting a signal the monitor doesn't like? (I see there's a 'video' button on that blue remote board for it that you just found)

    That's excellent that you found where the sync pot is by the way, would be worth giving that a little bit of a twist just on the off chance that it's causing the problem if the arcade game board doesn't turn out to be the problem. If it doesn't change anything then just make sure to twist it back to the previous position.

    I found the sync pots alright but I can't access without taking off the the front glass and the panel over the screen, it's a big job. There are 5 knobs on the left, 4 on the right. Is it worth getting the glass off to test them? Could a freezing game be related to sync pots?

    nhHRfUN.jpg
    exGctcU.jpg



    I also just tried to connect up an LCD monitor, switched between the various outputs, pal/secam, sega etc. Could get nothing on to the separate monitor. In fact, and this is probably because I fiddled with the CRT tuning knobs, I can't even get the screen to be dark fuzzy screen I had before, just a bright fuzzy one now. A point of note also is that whether I have the CRT in the cabinet connected via the VGA or not, the screen is the same now.

    Screen before I posted here:
    cQ0CdvX.jpg

    Screen now:
    A0XD0WX.jpg

    I hadn't managed to find a 9 pin VGA but there is actually a 15 pin, that from the video above is connected to the motherboard so that you can switch.

    KhvJDpF.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    eddhorse wrote: »
    What did the old power supply look like connecting there?
    Its possible you just need to press MODE on that small board to cycle through the resolutions.

    That is the old power supply but connected just now, it seemed so obvious the way it was connected with the large component connector that I didn't think I needed to take a photo of it before I disconnected it which of course I regret now as i'm doubting everything.

    I'm going to lift the the area where the buttons are now to test the voltage on them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,275 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    The image as to how the picture looks now - does it look like that after you played with the pots on the back of the flyback transformer earlier?

    What you are seeing now looks like what are called 'retrace lines' - theyre a result of the screen voltage on the flyback transformer being too high.

    So if you reckon this is a result of you moving those pots, it would be a good idea to bring them back down to where they were originally - you should hopefully then see the picture you had before. Just be super careful!

    Regarding the remote board you found with the sync pot - there'll be one pot there for what's called v.sync, then the others will control lots of other things on your monitor like brightness, contrast, vertical and horizontal image placement.

    The v.sync pot basically dials the sync in, think of it as tuning an analogue signal in on a tv - you have a rolling picture, you twist that pot, the rolling slows down till you get to a point where it has a stable image.

    I don't think that's going to solve your issue though as if it were a sync problem you'd still kind of be able to see the video image, it would just be rolling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    o1s1n wrote: »
    The image as to how the picture looks now - does it look like that after you played with the pots on the back of the flyback transformer earlier?

    What you are seeing now looks like what are called 'retrace lines' - theyre a result of the screen voltage on the flyback transformer being too high.

    So if you reckon this is a result of you moving those pots, it would be a good idea to bring them back down to where they were originally - you should hopefully then see the picture you had before. Just be super careful!

    Regarding the remote board you found with the sync pot - there'll be one pot there for what's called v.sync, then the others will control lots of other things on your monitor like brightness, contrast, vertical and horizontal image placement.

    The v.sync pot basically dials the sync in, think of it as tuning an analogue signal in on a tv - you have a rolling picture, you twist that pot, the rolling slows down till you get to a point where it has a stable image.

    I don't think that's going to solve your issue though as if it were a sync problem you'd still kind of be able to see the video image, it would just be rolling.

    OK thanks, I've reset it them back. Picture isn't as bright now but is still has the vertical lines, I can't get it back the way it was.

    But as you said, it's probably not the screen. Also, the machine had gone a bit flakey before it started doing the freezing thing. Sometimes you'd turn it on and all you would get a is a powered/slightly brighter than black but totally blank screen, and I would have to turn it on and back on again to get it to start up. That could be an issue related to what the guy in the video says, powering off a windows box using power rather than a proper software shut down is probably going to cause issues over time.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    So I've probably hit the end of the road with this line of investigation. I'm going to start swapping out component's to see if that helps, starting with the RAM, €12 delivered, it's worth a punt.

    It doesn’t sound like it would be a problem with the CPU except maybe overheating but the fan is running well.

    I have an old Dell PC at home so was hoping to harvest that but nothing fits so far, slightly different RAM, different connectors for the hard drive.

    Will see how the RAM goes, next step would be to buy adapters and hook the HDD to the old PC, see if I can boot off it.

    Another step could be to actually use the old PC and get a JAMMA adapter for it, if the HDD is working of course, or at least retrievable.

    Final step, just buy a multigame JAMMA box like Pandora.

    Thanks again for all your help, I learned a lot over the last few days, it's very much appreciated.

    Will let you know how I get on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭Gradius


    Keithchap wrote: »
    So I've probably hit the end of the road with this line of investigation. I'm going to start swapping out component's to see if that helps, starting with the RAM, €12 delivered, it's worth a punt.

    It doesn’t sound like it would be a problem with the CPU except maybe overheating but the fan is running well.

    I have an old Dell PC at home so was hoping to harvest that but nothing fits so far, slightly different RAM, different connectors for the hard drive.

    Will see how the RAM goes, next step would be to buy adapters and hook the HDD to the old PC, see if I can boot off it.

    Another step could be to actually use the old PC and get a JAMMA adapter for it, if the HDD is working of course, or at least retrievable.

    Final step, just buy a multigame JAMMA box like Pandora.

    Thanks again for all your help, I learned a lot over the last few days, it's very much appreciated.

    Will let you know how I get on.

    If I was you I'd get a multijamma board first, like Pandora's box. But make sure it's crt compatible and not hd!

    If that's an original arcade crt, it should be possible to just unhook the jamma connector (the black oblong connector going to the game king), connect a Pandora's box and that should be job done.

    It must be frustrating, I reckon if someone in the know had a look inside in person, it'd be a 60 second job :/

    Also, that white screen may be because you turned up the brightness all the way?

    If I was to suspect anything, it's that the game king board is bollocked. I'd go back to step 1, put the old power supply back and try the Pandora's box. Even if you have a white screen you'll hear the game, then you'll know it's just an adjustment of the monitor.

    Better yet, if someone lives nearby they should help this bloke out, pop over with a jamma board and get it going! Looks like it should be really simple!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭Gradius


    Just to add to my previous post, I know I picked up a gameking board some time ago, but I didn't test it because it needed its own power supply.

    In other words, there was the power coming from the jamma connection PLUS another power supply for the board.

    So for that reason, there's a chance the connection going into that gameking isn't simply jamma (and that's why it looks weird)....so connecting that edge connector might nuke a jamma standard board.

    Oh messy! Could be wrong of course


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    Gradius wrote: »
    If I was you I'd get a multijamma board first, like Pandora's box. But make sure it's crt compatible and not hd!

    If that's an original arcade crt, it should be possible to just unhook the jamma connector (the black oblong connector going to the game king), connect a Pandora's box and that should be job done.

    It must be frustrating, I reckon if someone in the know had a look inside in person, it'd be a 60 second job :/

    Also, that white screen may be because you turned up the brightness all the way?

    If I was to suspect anything, it's that the game king board is bollocked. I'd go back to step 1, put the old power supply back and try the Pandora's box. Even if you have a white screen you'll hear the game, then you'll know it's just an adjustment of the monitor.

    Better yet, if someone lives nearby they should help this bloke out, pop over with a jamma board and get it going! Looks like it should be really simple!

    Thanks. I'm in Ashtown in D15 if anyone is near by!

    I had a guy out here once when I was giving away an office desk on adverts, he was building a cabinet at the time, when he saw mine he was impressed so I fired it up and we had a quick game of SFII, I kicked his ass hehe, but I cheated by using Dhalism, had I used a proper character I like Ken or Ryu I would gave had it handed to me on a plate hahaha. If you're out there buddy ;-)

    Before I went near the PSU it wasn't starting up at thatpoint anyway, no sound. So I think it's like you said, bollocked.

    There are some other power leads coming from the PSU and they are hooked up. The Jamma board which I assume is the top deck has a power light on, I also tested some of the leads attached to it, they have power.

    I think it is standard Jamma except for perhaps audio, that was in the video shared earlier so I may only need to change 1 wire.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,003 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    I RGB modded this toploader NES in Sept and in Dec, it started showing corrupted visuals when I first turned it on, but that went away if I left it powered on for a bit and reset.

    Then it plain stopped working at all so I figured I'd recap it.

    Recapped and my original test game, Snake Rattle N Roll, wouldn't boot, but a few other Famicom and NES games would show something like the pic below.

    I'm thinking of checking all PPU address/data pins first, as it looks like it's looking up wrong palettes and tile info but this is super vexing as it was fine for months and I played the crap out of it. It quickly became my favourite console and looking at eBay prices, I got a bargain buying it from this forum!

    (Excuse the widescreen, it's that stupid 5V on the mode pin that Retro Gaming Cables to. It needs to be 12V for 4:3 for why bother?)

    542090.jpeg


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,201 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    If you wanted you could send it to me and I could pop in my NESRGB board (with my PPU) to narrow down the issue


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,003 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    Thanks KeRbDoG, that's really nice of you! It would help for sure.

    I'm gonna try and put some time aside to troubleshoot over the next few days so if I can't figure it out, I'll take you on on the offer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Saturn PSU swap. ReSaturn PSU for standard PAL PSU.
    I decided to give one of these a go. I'd already swapped a PAL PSU into this Jap NTSC machine years ago, so this is its third PSU.

    It's a more or less straight forward swap out. You just need to check what PSU is inside the Saturn and set the jumpers on the ReSaturn board accordingly.
    I insulated the bottom of the new board with some Kapton tape and stuck some heat resistant rubber pads underneath to make sure its nice and stable(not really needed, but no harm).
    One issue I did come across was interference/noise on the video signal. It turned out to be the crappy cheap external 12v PSU I was using. I swapped that over to something much better and the noise was gone(don't cheap out on the external brick!).

    It's been running non stop for nearly 6 hours now without issue. No temperature issues(external brick is 23c and the actual ReSaturn itself is around 30-34c).
    I'll probably grab another one of these for my ODE Saturn and he also makes a Dreamcast version that looks tempting.

    https://rexusnexus.com/home/

    was8Pli.jpg

    TEjqNTR.jpg

    15SCs65.jpg

    iBzJKDi.jpg

    dxbiIFL.jpg

    DrRneuV.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,418 ✭✭✭Inviere


    That's interesting, looks like a nice solution. Am I right in thinking the replacement Psu needs an external brick that feeds it 12v?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Inviere wrote: »
    That's interesting, looks like a nice solution. Am I right in thinking the replacement Psu needs an external brick that feeds it 12v?
    Yes that's exactly it, standard external 12v brick with at least 5 Amps.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    sugarman wrote: »
    Nice tidy solution, I might order one for both the Saturn and Dreamcast instead of bothering to do a recap on the stock. Did you get charged customs on top of that, yeah?

    No customs or fees no. It had the full customs declaration form filled in as well.
    Guess I got lucky.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,201 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Just read you can get VGA direct out of a PS1 (phat) linky. Might be a better/cheaper solution to those who already have a VGA->HDMI method than the PS1Digital board.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,716 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Seen that yesterday, its not really VGA though. Its RGB at 15KHz with separate sync signals, not really much of a step up from the stock RGB (SCART) output.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,201 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    More of an interest to our US friends so


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,716 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    KeRbDoG wrote: »
    More of an interest to our US friends so

    Yep, with their inferior TVs :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,275 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Some of those yanks are gas over on the CRTGaming subreddit - they'll go on and on about how 'composite is good enough' and how RGB is 'elitist' because they all seem to think that the only way of getting that type of signal is via a PVM.

    I love pointing out to them that even our ****test of **** TVs have it by default :pac:


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,524 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Oh, it's reminiscent of those on the Mame cab building FB page.
    They seem to be of the belief that anyone questioning the wisdom of building a cab with a control panel fit for landing F/A-18s and a flat panel display with Bubble Bobble stretched over 16:9 is some sort of elitist and should STFU and stop bringing the bad vibes...
    Honestly, it's why I don't post there any more.
    I made the mistake of saying I didn't like a massive control panel filled to bursting with illuminated buttons...
    That was enough to make me some sort of elitist asshat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,275 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I find that a really frustrating element of a lot of online discussion now that has moved away from tradition type forums.

    I think a lot of folks have gotten used to an echo chamber type of environment and you just aren't allowed a contrary view. It's incredibly boring.

    Long may this forum last so I can continue to disagree with you lunatics :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,003 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Some of those yanks are gas over on the CRTGaming subreddit - they'll go on and on about how 'composite is good enough' and how RGB is 'elitist' because they all seem to think that the only way of getting that type of signal is via a PVM.

    I love pointing out to them that even our ****test of **** TVs have it by default :pac:

    The funniest is watching them call SCART “SHART”. I mean wtf?

    Even the Retrotink creator does it. I had to mute him and a load of his associates on Twitter recently.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,716 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Well better than having him try the full version :)

    Syndicat des Constructeurs d'Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs


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