Domestic solar PV quotes 2018

reklamos wrote: »

I assume 615 is a typo and should be 315Watt.
Would you have space for 20panels as it does not seem that you do? I would also go for less but higher wattage ones. I'm not sure on ESB part here but because they would be spread over multiple directions you would never get to 6kWh. SEAI grant could be a show stopper if you plan apply for it.

The location of the inverter depends on the ambient temperature. I have mine installed in the attic that is insulated and facing south. The inverter itself is passive cooled and in July it was getting hot. I could barely hold my hand on the radiator for more than few seconds. The internal monitoring was going close to 70 degrees and that was too hot for me. I have installed 2 fans temperature controlled fans that spin up once it goes above 38 and now the temp rarely goes above 40.
I'm not convinced about shed as it does not really solve the problem. The temperature would fluctuate there even more and humidity would be higher.

Yep, typo , you are right, I meant 315s. I do have the space for 20, the clear roof space is quite substantial.

What kind of fans did you use and do they have a supply from outside or are you just passing attic temp air over them?

reklamos wrote: »

When inverter is put in place the radiator is against the wall and there is very little air movement in insulated attic.
I used 2x12V PC fans with temperature probes. Probes were attached to radiators. I created shrouds so the air is pushed through radiators on the back of inverter. See chart attached over last 24hours.

Might have to look into that then.

I guess free electricity to drive them too ! :cool:

quentingargan wrote: »

Just to tidy up some earlier questions, you need to check the MPPT voltage range of the inverter. Solis Hybrid for example is 150 to 500v. If you put four panels on one string, it won't work. You also need to ensure that the sum of Voc of panels is less than 600V, even at -20 degrees, so max 12 panels. Lastly, the 5kw inverter has max DC power per string at 3kw. So only 9x315 on each string. If you want to put up 20 or 22 panels, the balance must go onto an additional 1kw inverter (which ususually has a starting voltage of 60V and can work with 2 or 3 panels)

The system will work OK in a loft, but if the inverter overheats, it will de-rate, reducing production during that time. I also expect it will reduce the life-span of capacitors etc within the inverter. Batteries on the other hand, don't like being too cold, so they will de-rate on frosty mornings in a shed. Also, you need reliable data connection from your meter cabinet to the hybrid inverter. That can be done with CAT5, but worth bearing in mind...

Thanks again.

I think looking at what you say then, it would be simpler to stick with 18 panels max then. And attic ok, rather than the shed. It maybe a shorter inverter lifespan. But the battery will do worse in the shed. I wonder which is the lesser of two evils?

I think the extra effort for 20 or 22 is definitely heading to diminishing returns.

You lost me with the reference to 12 panels max though, could you elaborate on that for me please?

AidenL wrote: »

Thanks again.

I think looking at what you say then, it would be simpler to stick with 18 panels max then. And attic ok, rather than the shed. It maybe a shorter inverter lifespan. But the battery will do worse in the shed. I wonder which is the lesser of two evils?

I think the extra effort for 20 or 22 is definitely heading to diminishing returns.

You lost me with the reference to 12 panels max though, could you elaborate on that for me please?

The inverter will have two strings. In terms of voltage per string, 12 panels is the max. HOWEVER there is also in the data sheet a limit of 3kw per string, so in fact the max is 9 per string.

Yes - 18 panels makes sense unless you have very high consumption, or want to max out, but that will allow 3 more panels, will require a 1kw mini inverter and another DC isolator, and another fire fighter safety switch, so those 3 panels will be more expensive per panel.

would like to get an Idea of Price of equipment for a 4KW system with invertor. im not able to get €3800 grant as power was turned on Sep 2011

so would like to get a good value system if possible!!

KCross wrote: »

Did you get confirmation of that?
Dont assume it. The grant is tied to your MPRN and the date that ESB Networks have on file for your MPRN is the date that is used not a notional date of when you moved in.

I got grant approval (didnt draw it down yet though) and my power was turned on in 2011 as well. Talk to SEAI and get confirmation.

Hi i spoke with them and the MpRN is sep 2011 so no joy. I think i can call back to confirm.

When in 2011 was urs turned on

Mr Q wrote: »

Has anyone with solar PV installed linked it with a heat pump? I have a heat pump that the manufacturer has two versions of an add on that will turn it on for heating or hot water when an excess of power is available from solar. Like a diverter but not directly into the heating element.

One version connects the inverter directly to the heat pump and the other uses a CT clamp to measure the excess. But I don't know anyone with this setup and would be very interested in this setup if i knew it worked well. Hopefully someone here will have or know someone with similar and have a view

I was about to ask exactly the same question that Mr Q asked back in May, so I wont repeat his question again here. I have been stuggling for 6 months now to achieve what he was asking, so far with no success. I have a Nibe Air to Water Heat Pump, working very well, happy with it, but I also got the Nibe EME 10 card installed, which comes together with a CT clamp which is fixed to the AC output from my Solis Hybrid inverter . All was installed by the local Nibe installer, who, it appears, has no experience of any solar. The EME 10 is supposed to detect a current of more than 2.5kW generated from solar, and instruct the HP to heat up the water (in a Nibe system, hot water tank is inside the Nibe indoor unit) to a higher temperature than is normally efficient, superheat the water to store electricity. It just does not work! 6 months of efforts to ask installer to fix, then going to main distributor in Ireland, and finally to Nibe in Sweden directly have got me numerous emails where each one passes the buck to the other, but nobody comes to fix the problem. Anybody else out there using the Nibe EME-10 unit? I think I must be the only one in Ireland!

Yes, thanks for the 'solidarity'. It is doubly frustrating that the best way to test if it is working is when there is some good sun, and those days are rapidly decreasing a tthis time of year (but wonderful morning this morning). I suppose that any installer who was on top of his game would be able to put the CT detector around an artificial load of known current flow to check that it was properly detected and that it activated the HP, but so far nobody has offered to do that. Just not a priority for them, and I guess few of the HP installers look at a thread on this Board. If I was a solar installer I certainly would review the board (and if I worked for SEAI I would to), but I get the impression that all of the decent installers (and some of the cowboys as well) are so busy raking in the money that they do not need to waste their time looking at what their customers are saying!

Yes, I have been told something like that as well, but never as high as 6kW, that would make it useless for all Irish domestic customers, because the max you can legally export to the grid is 6kW! I am getting the total run around, from my installer to UNIPIPES from UNIPIPES to NIBE Sweden, with whom I have been in touch with. None of them seem to know what to do, apart from blame the other!

Thanks, oh dear!

Mr Q wrote: »

I have the same set up as you two but never purchased an EME after reading some of the issues with it on here.

I did have a different issue with using the unit to cool in the summer and when i rang Unipipe they told me i would need all sorts of additional items to get it working. Contacted a NIBE UK support guy and he told me what to do and I had it working in minutes at no cost. So I don't have mush faith in our Irish distributor on certain areas to do with the heat pump.

IFTTT has a formula that will activate temporary lux (hot water heating) with solar surplus via Smappee. I switched it off because it was cycling the compressor too often.

Does that cost include all the isolators and cabling? I *think* you should be able to get that sort of a system for under 5k installed. Maybe less but depends on how straightforward your install is - if scaffolding is needed etc. - and you will need to shop around. Unkel here did a self-install so a good person to ask.

garo wrote: »

Sep predicted: 355kWh
Actual: 350.9

October:
Predicted: 216.9
Actual: 193.3

Mr Q wrote: »

There are lots of people who are interested in installing PV that would not qualify for the grant though.

correct power turned on in Sep 2011, and no grant available