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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    G
    peadar76 wrote: »
    I have a budget of approx 700 euro for a new petrol lawn mower

    For me the most important thing is that it is good at bagging the grass, even if a bit damp.
    Ideally would like a blade clutch.

    I was considering extending my budget to go for the Honda HRG536VYE, but read somewhere (possibly here) that the Hondas are overpriced and there is better value to be had in other models.

    Recommendations would be much appreciated
    Honda is the king of blade brake lawnmowers, without going for exotic professional machines. There is a Stihl/Viking blade brake mower, RM650VS, but good luck finding a supplier if this 650 variation.
    If you consider electric start mowers, you will have the same versatility to stop and move, with a little less complexity of the brake/clutch. Stiga, Castelgarden, Cobra among others.


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭peadar76


    Cheers. So do I take it from that that the blade brake is introducing more potential problems if anything goes wrong?

    What about the electric start? How reliable are they? Are they around long enough to know?

    My thinking behind going with a blade brake, was that on occasions when I am cutting the grass and it is a bit long, I could have to empty the bag 20+ times. I don't mind having to pull start, but is all this stopping and starting bad for the engine? If it is not bad for the engine, maybe I would be as well just going with a traditional pull start.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    peadar76 wrote: »
    Cheers. So do I take it from that that the blade brake is introducing more potential problems if anything goes wrong?

    What about the electric start? How reliable are they? Are they around long enough to know?

    My thinking behind going with a blade brake, was that on occasions when I am cutting the grass and it is a bit long, I could have to empty the bag 20+ times. I don't mind having to pull start, but is all this stopping and starting bad for the engine? If it is not bad for the engine, maybe I would be as well just going with a traditional pull start.
    Not bad for the engine. Bad for your bones if they're getting old maybe. I got an electric start for that reason, herself was moaning about the increased starting effort of our 20 year old stiga, I said it was because she was getting ancient.
    Honda brake clutches have a great rep for reliability btw, with the exception of one model in the past, can't remember it but you can Google it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭peadar76


    What make & model did you go with?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    peadar76 wrote: »
    What make & model did you go with?
    This
    http://www.lawnmowerworld.ie/product/premium-grade-cobra-mx515spbi-20-aluminium-deck-with-briggs-stratton-instart-engine/
    Got 10% off.

    I was going to buy the CastelGarden XS 55 BVWE4 self propelled lawn mower with electric start and B&S engine from Shanleys in Newcastle, down the road from Brodericks, slightly bigger cut and steel deck, serious big mower, but the Cobra had alloy deck and was a bit more manoeuverable. Price was about the same, and same as the price on the Agrieuro site, around 625.
    Shanleys currently have a Castelgarden model with blade brake, the XA55MBS, it's available there, or Coynes in Clonard, also online for £589, only about €637 at the moment
    https://www.irishmowers.com/castelgarden-lawnmowers.html
    Shanleys do the Hondas also, worth a visit.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    peadar76 wrote: »
    I have a budget of approx 700 euro for a new petrol lawn mower

    For me the most important thing is that it is good at bagging the grass, even if a bit damp.
    Ideally would like a blade clutch.

    I was considering extending my budget to go for the Honda HRG536VYE, but read somewhere (possibly here) that the Hondas are overpriced and there is better value to be had in other models.

    Recommendations would be much appreciated

    Honda’s are priced accordingly as they are (with exception of etesia which is out of your price range) the best at collecting in the wet, although, the stihl mowers are also excellent.

    The blade brakes on Honda and stihl are fine, I still have a fifteen year old Honda with blade brake that works as well as the day I bought it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭peadar76


    Cheers Deezell. Presumably you are happy with the Cobra?


  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭tipperary


    My Stiga has died after 10 years so looking for a new mower. I was looking at a Mountfield SP53H (like https://www.screwfix.com/p/mountfield-sp53h-167cc-self-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/976fy which comes with a Honda GCV170 engine. My issue is that the lawn is on a slope (about 1:4). Is the GCV engine OK to use on this kind of slope?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    peadar76 wrote: »
    Cheers Deezell. Presumably you are happy with the Cobra?
    Yes. I got 10% discount also. That discount might still be available, it was a lot of features for just over €600, electric start, alloy deck, variable speed. I was impressed also by the Castelgarden electric start, it looked and felt huge, but I'm not the one using it mostly, and the alloy deck on my old stiga it was still perfect after 20 years, so the alloy deck swung the deal. That stiga still working away btw, sold to a neighbour.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    tipperary wrote: »
    My Stiga has died after 10 years so looking for a new mower. I was looking at a Mountfield SP53H (like https://www.screwfix.com/p/mountfield-sp53h-167cc-self-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/976fy which comes with a Honda GCV170 engine. My issue is that the lawn is on a slope (about 1:4). Is the GCV engine OK to use on this kind of slope?
    14° Slope is at the limit of what some would say is casual use, you now have to be aware of lifting deck, turning etc, but at the same time you're not climbing Everest!
    The GCV is well able for that slope, good synopsis here.
    https://www.vari.cz/en/advices-and-manuals/faq/slope-access-ability-of-the-honda-gcv-gsv-engines/art:20251/
    BTW, your stiga died after only 10 years, the engine blew? I wonder was it the slopes that done for it. You must keep oil levels checked and if you're on a constant slope. Learned that the hard way over 20 yrs ago, Stiga also, poked it's con rod out the side of the block in protest at low oil on a long lateral slope.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭tipperary


    yeah, engine blew on it unfortunately. Doesn't do a massive amount of work, and oil levels weren't particularly low either, so yes, reckon it was the slope did it. Hence looking to make sure it's replacement is OK working on slopes.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,128 ✭✭✭Emmersonn


    Would not a 2 stroke lawnmower solve the slope problem if any were available.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Emmersonn wrote: »
    Would not a 2 stroke lawnmower solve the slope problem if any were available.

    Flymo always used to do a 2 stroke lawnmower for banks and there are plenty of copies available. Not a machine I'd recommend though unless you have really steep banks because a Flymo is crap on the flat and useless for large flat areas.

    Never managed to kill a 4 stroke on a bank even with commercial mowing of steep banks. If you can't walk across it then you have to use a Flymo on a rope from above.

    If the bank isn't that high you can do it by walking on the level ground below it.

    Personally I prefer a push mower (no power to the wheels) on a bank as you have more control and push mowers tend to be much lighter again easier to control.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    my3cents wrote: »
    Flymo always used to do a 2 stroke lawnmower for banks and there are plenty of copies available. Not a machine I'd recommend though unless you have really steep banks because a Flymo is crap on the flat and useless for large flat areas.

    Never managed to kill a 4 stroke on a bank even with commercial mowing of steep banks. If you can't walk across it then you have to use a Flymo on a rope from above.

    If the bank isn't that high you can do it by walking on the level ground below it.

    Personally I prefer a push mower (no power to the wheels) on a bank as you have more control and push mowers tend to be much lighter again easier to control.

    From memory, AS mowers did a 2 stroke bank mower, not sure if they still do.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    From memory, AS mowers did a 2 stroke bank mower, not sure if they still do.

    And of course a battery mower shouldn't have any problem with a slope?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    my3cents wrote: »
    monkeynuz wrote: »
    From memory, AS mowers did a 2 stroke bank mower, not sure if they still do.

    And of course a battery mower shouldn't have any problem with a slope?
    This looks decent.
    http://www.lawnmowerworld.ie/product/ego-56v-battery-cordless-lawnmower-lm1701e/


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    my3cents wrote: »
    And of course a battery mower shouldn't have any problem with a slope?

    I didn’t see any comment in your post that referred to battery mowers, merely flymo and push mowers, I was just adding that there are two stroke conventional mowers available that also have all wheel drive.

    Personally I’ve never needed anything other than my pro Honda or Viking mowers and a strimmer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    I didn’t see any comment in your post that referred to battery mowers, merely flymo and push mowers, I was just adding that there are two stroke conventional mowers available that also have all wheel drive.

    Personally I’ve never needed anything other than my pro Honda or Viking mowers and a strimmer.

    It was one of those things that just occurred to me. I used to work contract mowing many years ago long before battery mowers.

    Most of the stuff I used back then isn't available anymore, its rare enough to see a petrol flymo nowadays, which is good because they were rubbish but they did have their use on banks (and for blowing grass of paths :D).


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,061 ✭✭✭rn


    Hi,
    In 2011 I "invested" in a decent mower and I bought a Husqvarna r53sv. It's the clone of some mcculloch mower, it has a Honda engine. Anyway overall an excellent mower, despite it being front wheel drive. The Honda engine is super easy prime and start. Never had a days trouble.

    Until now. The deck has rusted badly. The front skirt around the blade rusted on one side and it broke free. One day, last month it got caught in the rotating blade and broke clean off other side.

    So now mower works, but grass flies out front of mower as well as back into the bag. It leaves bits of grass all over the lawn, much to dislike of my wife when me and dog bring them into kitchen.

    I rang my local, trusty husqvarna retailer who told me mower is now end of life and my mower is unrepairable. I'm really disappointed with this from a "premium" brand. Especially as the mower wasn't worked hard, grass cut regularly and rarely wet. Deck cleaned every year and engine serviced. In fact engine and drive are 100%.

    Have I any options to repair the deck? Is there anyone that would take this mower for trade in towards a new one?
    Im based in Athlone.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    rn wrote: »
    Hi,
    In 2011 I "invested" in a decent mower and I bought a Husqvarna r53sv. It's the clone of some mcculloch mower, it has a Honda engine. Anyway overall an excellent mower, despite it being front wheel drive. The Honda engine is super easy prime and start. Never had a days trouble.

    Until now. The deck has rusted badly. The front skirt around the blade rusted on one side and it broke free. One day, last month it got caught in the rotating blade and broke clean off other side.

    So now mower works, but grass flies out front of mower as well as back into the bag. It leaves bits of grass all over the lawn, much to dislike of my wife when me and dog bring them into kitchen.

    I rang my local, trusty husqvarna retailer who told me mower is now end of life and my mower is unrepairable. I'm really disappointed with this from a "premium" brand. Especially as the mower wasn't worked hard, grass cut regularly and rarely wet. Deck cleaned every year and engine serviced. In fact engine and drive are 100%.

    Have I any options to repair the deck? Is there anyone that would take this mower for trade in towards a new one?
    Im based in Athlone.

    You could perhaps try these people or someone like them, I haven’t looked to see if they’d deliver here. https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/husqvarna/diagrams/r53sv-1/80460e0d-e306-43fb-9a5d/

    Or you could try getting some metal or a local mower repairer to try and manufacture the sides of the mower and riveting the metal to the existing deck.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    At 8 years old, the rest of it is worth (just) a new deck. Part no is;
    Husqvarna spare parts uk CHASSIS Part number 583317001, replacing 583305501
    Here it is for £136 from the UK, £144 to parcel Motel or £156 to ROI.
    https://www.mowerspareparts.co.uk/SearchResults.asp?Search=583317001

    You can Google away with that number, you might find it for less.
    Steel decks must be cleaned down, and wire brushed and painted with rust primer at least every two years, and, Imo, when they are brand new before use. Factory dip paint flakes off in no time. Metal underneath is seldom primed. Even a few years will eat deep into the steel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,589 ✭✭✭deezell


    Here it is for only €83, $93 from the States. You'd have to ask about delivery charges, and you might get caught for VAT at import.

    https://www.sepw.com/amp/parts/ayp-583317001-housing-21-fgd-m-c-black-ce/


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,061 ✭✭✭rn


    @deezel many thanks. I had been on mower parts but couldn't find out right part. Project for autumn sorted. I'll prob order from UK. Before brexit!


  • Registered Users Posts: 432 ✭✭LithiumKid1976


    Would you expect a price drop in ride on's as we approach the end of the year/? or is it an urban myth.?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Would you expect a price drop in ride on's as we approach the end of the year/? or is it an urban myth.?

    I think its urban myth with a bit of truth. If the dealership has a lot of ride on's it was expecting to have sold and hasn't then they may reduce them particularly if they have paid for them. The trade (when I had some connections to it) allowed stock to be held for a certain time before it was paid for. In particular new stock taken on during the winter often wasn't paid for until the following spring. Similarly it may be harder to shift last years mower in the following spring so another reason for a discount. But on the whole no.

    Where you should always be able to get a discount is on the add ons. The extras have a much bigger markup so there is a lot more room to give away a trailer worth say €150 to seal a deal than there is to knock €100 off the price.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 junipershade


    I picked up a Stiga 5092H from Agrieuro last month. Overall it's a great machine and cuts well, but it seems like engaging the cutting deck puts a lot of strain on the motor, making it slow quite a bit and causes some vibration. I've never had a ride on mower before so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

    I've put a video on dropbox here, does this seem normal or could something have been knocked out of alignment in shipping?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    I picked up a Stiga 5092H from Agrieuro last month. Overall it's a great machine and cuts well, but it seems like engaging the cutting deck puts a lot of strain on the motor, making it slow quite a bit and causes some vibration. I've never had a ride on mower before so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

    I've put a video on dropbox here, does this seem normal or could something have been knocked out of alignment in shipping?

    Hard to say but I'd say something was wrong? Is the electronic clutch working correctly? When you start the engine the deck should be disengaged. Everything is going around fine just as it should under the deck. The manual version of that deck has loads more components that aren't used in the electric one.

    That deck design does vibrate a good bit but it looks like something might be out of balance on yours. So check under the deck for anything bent (blades) chunks out of the blades or something attached too or wrapped around the blades.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 702 ✭✭✭Portsalon


    I was using my excellent Aldi motor mower to cut some pretty dense edge of lawn vegetation yesterday when suddenly petrol came gushing out of the oil cap. Obviously I had flogged it too hard, and I suspect that some sort of oil or petrol seal may have burst.

    This is the second one of these that I have bought, the first one died after 3 years of hard usage cutting my ½ acre lawn - which takes me about 5 hours! The current one is in its first year of use, although I bought it 3 years ago, expecting the original one to die far sooner than it did! So it's in almost new condition.

    The engine is a Briggs and Stratton 575EX Ready Start engine and I'd far prefer to get it repaired rather than abandon it. Can anyone advise whether repairing this is likely to be reasonably inexpensive, as the mower cost me only €130.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Thats strange as there is no direct connection between the oil sump and the fuel. Even if the piston got a hole in it you wouldn't get much petrol in the sump. You sure it was petrol and not very hot thin oil?

    tbh with the price of labour I doubt its worth fixing but I'd get the head off it and see what the damage is.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 702 ✭✭✭Portsalon


    my3cents wrote: »
    Thats strange as there is no direct connection between the oil sump and the fuel. Even if the piston got a hole in it you wouldn't get much petrol in the sump. You sure it was petrol and not very hot thin oil?

    tbh with the price of labour I doubt its worth fixing but I'd get the head off it and see what the damage is.

    Thanks.

    I'm pretty sure that it was a petrol/hot oil mix but I'll head out and have a look.

    I'd have a go at re-starting it only I'm worried that it might blow up!


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