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The eBike thread

13468963

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    It could be the controller, make sure there isn't an issue with the battery. Check he voltage out with a multimeter if u can , if you don't have one get one , they're cheap and go from there.
    Thanks for that. I did connect the charger this evening and i notice its making a clicking sound so maybe its the battery or charger ?? a friend of mine will have a look at it during the week


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    nokiatom wrote: »
    Thanks for that. I did connect the charger this evening and i notice its making a clicking sound so maybe its the battery or charger ?? a friend of mine will have a look at it during the week

    Could be anything, could be the charger or the BMS is fried. But hopefully it's an easy fix, good luck and let us know how you get on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    As Mad_Lad said, first port of call is check voltage of battery. When the BMS on mine kicked in (and stopped supplying charge), I measured and it was down to 34V (but a day later this had gone up to the resting voltage of 36V)

    Fully charged you should be at about 42V, so if it is significantly less after charging, most likely the charger is faulty

    Chargers are only €3 including shipping from Chinaland :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    tested the battery today..got nearly 40v. Powered on the LCD and no joy. Connected the charger to the battery...LCD lights up and motor runs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,482 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    nokiatom wrote: »
    tested the battery today..got nearly 40v. Powered on the LCD and no joy. Connected the charger to the battery...LCD lights up and motor runs.
    So it's only working when the bike/battery is plugged in? Weird. Can't think off the top of my head how that would work.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    yes thats the situation at the moment


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    That doesn't seem to make sense. So you tested the battery with a multimeter when it was not connected to eBike controller nor to the battery charger and it read 40V?

    Then you connected the battery to the eBike controller and nothing. Than you connect the battery charger to the battery and the motor works?


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I would think if this is a 36V battery then it should have about 42V hot off the charger. 10S x 4.2 V per cell , if it's LiFeP04 it will have a lower voltage.

    I would connect the charger over night and see if this makes a difference to the battery, it may be a case where the cells are very out of balance and could take 24 hrs or more to balance them, this happens when the battery gets old and normal over night charging might not balance the cells properly. Just a theory at the moment.

    Get a mulltimeter and connect to the battery after a full charge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I would think if this is a 36V battery then it should have about 42V hot off the charger.

    Indeed. But at 40V the pack still has a state of charge of about 80%. This should be plenty to get the motor going. Unless the BMS refuses to play ball - because of maybe 9 batteries in the series are close to 4.2V and one is below 3V or whatever the threshold is. And when the battery charger is connected, the controller gets the voltage it needs directly from the charger no matter what the BMS wants. A way to test this (it will be a bit tricky) is to use max throttle for a second (using an extension lead). If the power comes from the charger the acceleration will be lethargic as the charger only provides 2A or something like that. Not like the battery that can provide 13A or so :D

    My theory at the moment!
    I would connect the charger over night and see if this makes a difference to the battery, it may be a case where the cells are very out of balance and could take 24 hrs or more to balance them, this happens when the battery gets old and normal over night charging might not balance the cells properly. Just a theory at the moment.

    Sounds like a plan


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    Indeed. But at 40V the pack still has a state of charge of about 80%. This should be plenty to get the motor going. Unless the BMS refuses to play ball - because of maybe 9 batteries in the series are close to 4.2V and one is below 3V or whatever the threshold is. And when the battery charger is connected, the controller gets the voltage it needs directly from the charger no matter what the BMS wants. A way to test this (it will be a bit tricky) is to use max throttle for a second (using an extension lead). If the power comes from the charger the acceleration will be lethargic as the charger only provides 2A or something like that. Not like the battery that can provide 13A or so :D

    My theory at the moment!

    Yep you pretty much got it, total pack voltage doesn't tell the state of the cells.

    I had a LiFeP04 battery I got back in 2009, 48V 20AH from pingbattery.com, it had led's which would illuminate when cell balance had complete, an excellent feature !

    Of course today you wouldn't use LiFeP04 on an Ebike, too large and heavy and not so good energy density but fantastic life, good for storage.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I had a LiFeP04 battery I got back in 2009, 48V 20AH from pingbattery.com

    How much did that pack set you back? :D

    I'm a bit annoyed now that both my packs are depleted and I'm waiting for a charger and cables from China. Dying to do some speed and range testing...

    Have high hopes for these little packs. And they were incredibly cheap. Was tempted to buy a cheap Chinese 72V 2000W continous power pure sine wave inverter for about GBP110 this evening. Throw it and the batteries in the boot of the EV when I go for a dodgy trip and if I completely run out of juice in the middle of nowhere they should give me 3km of additional range in about 20 minutes. Enough to get to the nearest 3 pin plug so I can use the granny cable (or with luck a slow or even fast charger)


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    How much did that pack set you back? :D

    I'm a bit annoyed now that both my packs are depleted and I'm waiting for a charger and cables from China. Dying to do some speed and range testing...

    Have high hopes for these little packs. And they were incredibly cheap. Was tempted to buy a cheap Chinese 72V 2000W continous power pure sine wave inverter for about GBP110 this evening. Throw it and the batteries in the boot of the EV when I go for a dodgy trip and if I completely run out of juice in the middle of nowhere they should give me 3km of additional range in about 20 minutes. Enough to get to the nearest 3 pin plug so I can use the granny cable (or with luck a slow or even fast charger)

    The battery inc shipping was 668 Euro's.

    Today that Would cost 730 Euro's with upgraded BMS and 5 Amp charger, a joke really, costs should have fallen a lot.

    20 Ah of Lipo would cost me less than half that !

    You can get more power out of your existing controller, jsut put some solder on the Shunt, this will allow more current which will = more torque and if you want more speed add more voltage but you need to know the FET's in the controller and look them up and see their max voltage and current limit, this will be the peak, exceed it and you will have smoke, how do I know that ? haha I fried a few and had to get herself to pick me up on a few occasions miles away ! :rolleyes:

    A little bit of solder on the shunt at a time.

    When tinkering, it's good to get a watt meter, can be got for about 15 pounds on Amazon.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07M5XD4G9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I got this to monitor the power I'm using from the battery with my Radio Transceiver but it will do the job for the ebike just don't exceed the voltage which is the voltage hot off the charger.

    Down the road you can get what's called the cycle analyst, pretty much the same thing only much more expensive, but other models can plug direct into some controllers which you can limit acceleration and speed, it works great.

    That motor should be good for 5 Kw, 60 volts and about 83 amps peak ( battery current) . I had a blast, looks like a similar motor, although I just remembered, you got front motor and that's a no no above maybe 1 Kw max. :D

    The 72 controller won't work with your 36 volt battery or do u have 2 of them ?

    That would be 27 Amps battery current for 2 Kw , I wouldn't do it in a front wheel setup, chances are the little torque washers would pop out or break spinning the axle breaking the wires and they are a pain to replace, believe me.

    I told you anyway to get the rear motor because it won't be long until you want more power lol. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I'm not talking about a 72V controller. It was a 72V DC to AC pure sine wave inverter that I could use my little hoover board battery packs in series to provide AC power to my granny cable to charge my EV :)

    I'd say my fork would be toast very quickly even with a 1kW motor. The setup I went for is just right. If I want more powah (indeed quite possible :D) I will sell the bike or the kit or both and get me something else. Probably going to cost me more money than I'm willing to spend though.
    The battery inc shipping was 668 Euro's.

    Are you sure? That really wasn't too bad at all back then, quite surprised about that figure for a 1kWh battery (20Ah * 50V). I have a figure in my head that the original Nissan Leaf 24kWh battery cost Nissan USD20k to procure back in what year was it, 2010? So USD833 per kWh. Which is more than you paid. Which doesn't make sense!

    My own batteries are a combined 8Ah * 40V so about a third of a kWh. €90 including all shipping so comparable to about €270 for a kWh :)


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    I'm not talking about a 72V controller. It was a 72V DC to AC pure sine wave inverter that I could use my little hoover board battery packs in series to provide AC power to my granny cable to charge my EV :)

    I'd say my fork would be toast very quickly even with a 1kW motor. The setup I went for is just right. If I want more powah (indeed quite possible :D) I will sell the bike or the kit or both and get me something else. Probably going to cost me more money than I'm willing to spend though.



    Are you sure? That really wasn't too bad at all back then, quite surprised about that figure for a 1kWh battery (20Ah * 50V). I have a figure in my head that the original Nissan Leaf 24kWh battery cost Nissan USD20k to procure back in what year was it, 2010? So USD833 per kWh. Which is more than you paid. Which doesn't make sense!

    My own batteries are a combined 8Ah * 40V so about a third of a kWh. €90 including all shipping so comparable to about €270 for a kWh :)

    I still have the paypal receipt.


    Jun 15, 2010 15:22:10 PDT


    Description Unit price Qty Amount
    48V 20AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack
    Item# $642.00 USD 1 $642.00 USD
    Subtotal $642.00 USD
    Shipping and handling $160.00 USD
    Total $802.00 USD
    Payment $802.00 USD
    Charge will appear on your credit card statement as "PAYPAL *PINGPING227"
    From amount €667.15 EUR
    To amount $802.00 USD
    Exchange rate: 1 EUR = 1.20212 USD


    Yeah shame they're more expensive now.

    How much charge do you think you could put into your car with those tiny batteries ? :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    How much charge do you think you could put into your car with those tiny batteries ? :D

    The batteries are 0.34kWh. Given some losses and usable capacity let's say I can get 0.3kWh or near enough into the battery using my granny cable and the car set to the lowest level of charging: 860W. Doing this for 20 minutes at 2.5C will not be very healthy for my pack, but it should get me out of a hole and give me near enough 3km range when driven handily :)

    But would I ever need to use it? Probably not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,482 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    unkel wrote: »
    The batteries are 0.34kWh. Given some losses and usable capacity let's say I can get 0.3kWh or near enough into the battery using my granny cable and the car set to the lowest level of charging: 860W. Doing this for 20 minutes at 2.5C will not be very healthy for my pack, but it should get me out of a hole and give me near enough 3km range when driven handily :)

    But would I ever need to use it? Probably not.


    Pure curiosity question. 2.5 degrees Celsius? How do you control for temperature?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    unkel wrote: »
    That doesn't seem to make sense. So you tested the battery with a multimeter when it was not connected to eBike controller nor to the battery charger and it read 40V?

    Then you connected the battery to the eBike controller and nothing. Than you connect the battery charger to the battery and the motor works?
    Today the situation is different, i connect the charger to the battery...the light stays green on the charger but its making a clicking sound. while its making this clicking sound i turn the power on at the handle bars...nothing happens. after 30 seconds or so the clicking stops. i then hit the power on button and all the lights come on. then i disconnect the charger and all the lights go off....it will not turn on the power. i then disconnect the controller from the battery and measure the volts coming from the battery (charger disconnected) im getting erratic readings but nothing over 20v. if i connect the charger at this stage i get a 41v reading


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 8,264 Mod ✭✭✭✭liamog


    C-Rate is the charge rate for a battery. If you have a 10kWh battery and can charge it using a 25kW charger, the battery is said to have a charge rate of 2.5C.

    The 10kWh battery will charge in 24mins.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,482 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    nokiatom wrote: »
    Today the situation is different, i connect the charger to the battery...the light stays green on the charger but its making a clicking sound. while its making this clicking sound i turn the power on at the handle bars...nothing happens. after 30 seconds or so the clicking stops. i then hit the power on button and all the lights come on. then i disconnect the charger and all the lights go off....it will not turn on the power. i then disconnect the controller from the battery and measure the volts coming from the battery (charger disconnected) im getting erratic readings but nothing over 20v. if i connect the charger at this stage i get a 41v reading
    The charger clicks or something else? It's sounding like a BMS issue. If the battery reading is erratic when not connected to anything, I can't think of anything else that's left.

    liamog wrote: »
    C-Rate is the charge rate for a battery. If you have a 10kWh battery and can charge it using a 25kW charger, the battery is said to have a charge rate of 2.5C.

    The 10kWh battery will charge in 24mins.
    That makes more sense. Seems counter-intuitive to use C but I'm sure it's normal practise. Batteries aren't my area of expertise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    xckjoo wrote: »
    The charger clicks or something else? It's sounding like a BMS issue. If the battery reading is erratic when not connected to anything, I can't think of anything else that's left.



    That makes more sense. Seems counter-intuitive to use C but I'm sure it's normal practise. Batteries aren't my area of expertise.

    the charger clicks


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  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    The batteries are 0.34kWh. Given some losses and usable capacity let's say I can get 0.3kWh or near enough into the battery using my granny cable and the car set to the lowest level of charging: 860W. Doing this for 20 minutes at 2.5C will not be very healthy for my pack, but it should get me out of a hole and give me near enough 3km range when driven handily :)

    But would I ever need to use it? Probably not.

    I wouldn't waste the money on the inverter then lol.


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    nokiatom wrote: »
    Today the situation is different, i connect the charger to the battery...the light stays green on the charger but its making a clicking sound. while its making this clicking sound i turn the power on at the handle bars...nothing happens. after 30 seconds or so the clicking stops. i then hit the power on button and all the lights come on. then i disconnect the charger and all the lights go off....it will not turn on the power. i then disconnect the controller from the battery and measure the volts coming from the battery (charger disconnected) im getting erratic readings but nothing over 20v. if i connect the charger at this stage i get a 41v reading

    Sounds like your battery or BMS is toast, I would assume if the voltage is 20 V and it's a 10S pack , or 36 volts correct ? then that would assume a critical 2v per cell ( if you're seeing 20 volts ) and could mean the BMS/charger is preventing the charge which is the clicking you hear.

    So I would not try charge this battery to be safe and keep outside the house, batteries can be incredibly dangerous and you won't be able to extinguish it if it ignites. If it's LiFeP04 it will be safe enough but anything else simply can not be trusted.

    If those cells are really around 2 volts then it would be dangerous to try and charge it.

    Please take some pics of the battery. It would be difficult to know for certain what the problem is without opening it up and disconnecting the BMS but 20 volts in the pack to me means the battery is dead, that is taking you tested the voltage with the battery removed from the bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I wouldn't waste the money on the inverter then lol.

    A Chinesium 72V inverter would only be about €100, but yeah. Probably not going to use it. In the process of adding home attached battery storage, with an emergency supply for when the grid is down (that is very rare in Dublin) so don't need it for that either.


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    A Chinesium 72V inverter would only be about €100, but yeah. Probably not going to use it. In the process of adding home attached battery storage, with an emergency supply for when the grid is down (that is very rare in Dublin) so don't need it for that either.

    Ah u don't need emergency power, not like you got Well pumps and septic tank pumps to worry about :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    The last time we had a serious power outage lasting several hours was about 12 years ago. I was the only one on the road with a gas stove, so I was warming up baby milk for the whole road :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 299 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    https://www.anacondastores.com/cycling/bikes/fluid-bolt-commuter-e-bike/90104341

    Hi all,

    Can some of you gurus give me some feedback on that ebike?
    My commute is approx 20k each way with some steep hills. Seems good value to me.

    It would be my first ebike so any pros and cons about it would be appreciated.

    Edit, seems I need li-ion batteries and hub motors may not be suitable for the hills? Also disc brakes are recommended. Am I wasting money on this?

    Cheers
    L.E.E.


  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    https://www.anacondastores.com/cycling/bikes/fluid-bolt-commuter-e-bike/90104341

    Hi all,

    Can some of you gurus give me some feedback on that ebike?
    My commute is approx 20k each way with some steep hills. Seems good value to me.

    It would be my first ebike so any pros and cons about it would be appreciated.

    Edit, seems I need li-ion batteries and hub motors may not be suitable for the hills? Also disc brakes are recommended. Am I wasting money on this?

    Cheers
    L.E.E.

    That's in US Dollars ?

    Hard to know really , they are Bafang hubs and usually get good reviews however I have no experience with this motor so can't say for sure and it would depend on your expectations of the level of power delivered.

    Hub motors are great, especially geared hubs because they have a clutch that disengages the mechanical connection from the wheel completely when no power is applied to the motor which makes peddling with no motor power much much easier than what they call direct drive motors + they have more torque for the same power.

    Depends on the power that is actually being fed, ignore the 200 Watt rating because most of the time it's many times more but I can not say for sure, if it's really 200 watts being pulled from the battery chances are it would be very weak but you'd have to review this setup.

    Perhaps if you can find the motor model number I can check it out ?

    My favourite ebike setup was a em3ev.com Mac 8T hub motor, I was feeding it 2 Kw to begin with and it was super even on hills, I modded it to 3 Kw and it was amazing !

    Now the thing is that chain drive or crank drives are more suited to lower power because they are more efficient only because they can use the bikes gearing and are best suited to very slow steep long trails.

    So depending on the motor setup, your terrain and what kind of power you expect to put into peddling.

    Most of the big ebike companies, Bosch for instance are running 700 Watts peak or at least that's what's being pulled from the battery, and so we don't know whether the ebike limit of 250 watts for Europe for instance is motor power or battery power. But either way no one cares about power because power isn't tested and this is not what gives them their certification , it's the acceleration and top speed that makes them legal in the end, oh and of course the 250 watt sticker just to keep legislators happy ! :-)

    Even a geared hub at 500-1 Kw will provide very good assistance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    Sounds like your battery or BMS is toast, I would assume if the voltage is 20 V and it's a 10S pack , or 36 volts correct ? then that would assume a critical 2v per cell ( if you're seeing 20 volts ) and could mean the BMS/charger is preventing the charge which is the clicking you hear.

    So I would not try charge this battery to be safe and keep outside the house, batteries can be incredibly dangerous and you won't be able to extinguish it if it ignites. If it's LiFeP04 it will be safe enough but anything else simply can not be trusted.

    If those cells are really around 2 volts then it would be dangerous to try and charge it.

    Please take some pics of the battery. It would be difficult to know for certain what the problem is without opening it up and disconnecting the BMS but 20 volts in the pack to me means the battery is dead, that is taking you tested the voltage with the battery removed from the bike.

    i will get back to you about it. i just hadnt time lately to look at it. cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,659 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I'm still waiting for that bloody charger and cable from China! Can't wait to do speed and range test.

    Did get the XT60 parallel cable so I now have a 8Ah pack if I needed it.


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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Bit late to this party but I have been commuting for just over two years with a Bafang BBSHD mid motor based setup built on a Boardman MX hybrid. It has been really reliable and as I have about 17 Ah of 48 V battery the range of the bike still about 100 km cruising at slightly above the legal 25 km/h speed limit. I did a first properly long spin on the bike a couple of weeks ago and it took just over three hours to cycle 85 real kilometers and the battery had still enough juice for about estimated 15-25 kilometers. So it has pretty much the range of a L24.

    There is currently just under 14k km on the clock since the conversion with no Bafang related issues, just general wear and tear on the bike.

    The power and battery specs are bit of an overkill for my daily commute of 42 km return but this gives me plenty of headroom against battery degradation and hurricane level headwinds and I also figured out that a higher rated motor has an easier life and will therefore have less problems at high miles. Some say that bike like this would have enough oomph for about 50 km/h on level ground at full blast but what do I know. I cruise at lower legal(ish) speeds.

    Here's an ongoing thread about the experience:

    Commuting on a BBSHD


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