Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Shed build - help
Options
Comments
-
-
-
-
FrancieBrady wrote: »Give the man time, will ya! You can't rashly choose any old hinges you know. These things take time
He's only had 7 months!!0 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
Right then. Having spent the spring getting the garden back into shape/avoiding the shed, I finally got back to it today.
Brushed off all the winter debris.
Finished carving the ridge insulation (this was hard).
Laid membrane over the ridge to help it shed water in the event of a shingles failure.
Cut the first set of roof battens, connected and positioned loosely with tape.
Next job: try and throw some 220mm screws through the battens, insulation, and OSB to hit the 44mm wide rafters. My inside out design, accumulated measurement errors and obsession with air tightness makes this rather like playing darts blindfolded....
I also need to revisit sketches of gutters and roof shingles, so I can work out correct batten length for a flush eaves detail.
And get a new phone, cos after smashing the lens cover on my current ones the pics are splodgy.
Oh, and no, it still doesn't have a door. Or windows. :pac:
Anyway, the motivation is back!
0 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
-
-
Finally finished with membranes and battening, at least for this pre-windows phase, apart from the odd corner.
To align the roof battens (so that I could hit the rafters through the 100mm of insulation + OSB with the 220mm Spax screws) I poked a kebab skewer up next to a rafter and out past the insulation, and then offset the others based on laser measurements from the rafters inside.
I was going to leave the wood fibre roof insulation open to the elements (as it's impregnated with paraffin wax so will cope fine in theory) but because I'm going for a design with no overhangs, soffits or fascia board I thought it safer to complete the wrap in case any rain gets driven up past the guttering.
At this stage this project feels like about half upholstery.
Cedar shingles arrived last week. At about €40/sqm they're not much cheaper than slate, and won't last as long, and the structure was designed to take a full slate roof load, but....I reckon the shingles will be more in keeping with the overall aesthetic, and they'll age consistently with the larch cladding. This is aesthetically a shed, even if it's designed to perform like a habitable building.
I might even go for shingles on the walls, like this house currently under construction somewhere on this island.
You can see the effects of rain splash at the bottom of the walls. It should all wash off but can't be doing the membrane much good. That's why I want to get the roof and guttering sorted ASAP....
(click thumbnails for larger images)
0 -
-
-
Not that simple on a 10% slope with tree roots all over the place. I'd have either had to cut down the tree and level the whole area, or use concrete pile foundations, neither of which appealed.Likely not very helpful, but you'd have made life a whole lot simpler by just pouring a 6 inch reinforced concrete slab to build off..
At the beginning of the project the faffing with misaligned ground screws seemed like a big time suck, but that was back when I thought I could finish the whole thing in three weeks.
0 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
Do you have to counter batten to nail the shingles to ?
Yeah, the same 50 x 35mm I've used to hold on the insulation. The nails are 31mm stainless ringshank from inox.ie (finally I've found a supplier of stainless fixings in Ireland!). I think I need 18 battens on each 5.something metre slope, so that's 45 x 4.8 cut in about three different ways according to my spreadsheet.When the gutters are on I'd say there will be frig all splash back and even any splashback won't be too noticeable if it's onto something clean as opposed to clay / dirt .
I think barkmuch will be a bit woody alongside the full thing clad in shingles aswell but thats just a personal preference and might be exactly what you like
I'll probably leave the cladding for a while anyway, as I've windows to think about. Once the gutters are on I can monitor the splash for a couple of months and make a decision. It's quite dark under the tree anyway, I might just plant some shade-loving ground cover plants or mossy rocks or something. But some clean dark-ish pebble might be a nice contrast....0 -
-
So, shingles took pretty much the whole bank holiday weekend, and I've still about 20% of one side remaining (I ran out of stainless steel ringshank nails).
Then we had a couple of days of heavy-ish rainfall with little wind, so I have a chance to examine the rain shedding performance.
It's....not perfect. Despite correctly overlapping the shingles and using a double layer at the drip edge, it seems that the water is crawling back under the drip edge and in places wetting the bottom two sets of counterbattens. The counterbattens further up are dry as a bone.
I could have prevented this by using a strip of membrane over the bottom two counterbattens, but since the main roof structure itself is well protected under a layer of continuous lapped membrane (and the insulation under the membrane is water resistant), I wasn't really fussed about the counterbattens. So I guess the question is whether a treated counterbatten subjected to period indirect wetting is going to rot. I guess I'll find out...
Although I guess I can poke a thin strip under the bottom batten to give that some protection, since they're nailed further up.
0 -
-
-
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
Advertisement