the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Type 17 · 24-11-2018 10:47pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I don't believe it's possible for human to do this, I'm fairly certain bikeshops use some form of secret alien to do it.

You are correct, earthling...

25-11-2018 1:42am

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm going to try recable a bike later on for the first time ever. I fully expect to make a mess of it.

That feeling when I got the bar tape on all nice only to realise I'd not wrapped the cables was something i'll not forget in a hurry or a mistake i'll make again

Weepsie · 25-11-2018 2:08am

Didn't get as far as recabling, took off the BB, and found inside the frame had rust and gunk stuck on. got id say 90 % of it off , wash and dried and installed a square taper bb and a 48/32 chainset. Felt I had to adjust the derailleur a little bit, and messed that up so can't get it to shift in to the big ring.

My tool for installing said bb, was a bit rubbish too, and I neglected to note the screw which holds the cable guide in place kind of extruding in the BB, made for an interesting time.

I'm half thinking I've damaged the BB and ruined the threads, but it's done now.

EDit · 25-11-2018 12:29pm

Based on some of the responses above, I think I’ll leave the installation to the experts

Next questions are related to the BB...I realise I need the groupset and cables, but is a new BB recommended? The one on my bike (bike is 2.5 yrs old, done > 5000k, regularly serviced) is actually compatible with the new groupset. However, I don’t know if it is advisable to start “clean” on everything. Also, the advice for the new groupset says you can use the BB I already have or a pressfit one...is there any benefit switching to a pressfit BB?

For clarity, the BB options are the Shimano BBR60 or Shimano Road Pressfit (new groupset will be Ultegra R8000)

Ray Bloody Purchase · 25-11-2018 1:41pm

Front disc is loose on the disc brake. It's rattles when I cycle. Is it safe to continue cycling on it and will it do any damage?

I'm bringing it in after payday for a service.

Is it an easy fix, if I were to do it myself?

magicbastarder · 25-11-2018 4:23pm

if it's just a case of tightening some bolts, then i'd do that immediately. no way would i want a front brake i have doubts over.

Weepsie · 25-11-2018 6:22pm

@Edit, get a new BB. They're cheap, and some of them are easy to install. My struggles last night where due to my own inattentiveness.

Anyway, I'm giving up. The front derailleur won't cooperate with the new chainset. Think the chainset has a wider spindle or q factor?,

I was dropping the FD a mere 2-3 mm, but mayve gone slightly too far. No amount of adjustment can fix it from me.

Off to the lbs with it, and I'll get them to recable it anyway

Deano12345 · 25-11-2018 6:36pm

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Front disc is loose on the disc brake. It's rattles when I cycle. Is it safe to continue cycling on it and will it do any damage?

I'm bringing it in after payday for a service.

Is it an easy fix, if I were to do it myself?

The bolts would get a fair bit of jarring around so if they were installed without thread lock, I could see them working slightly loose.

If it’s a 6 bolt disc it’s normally a TORX T20/25. Easy job to do yourself, just tighten them diagonally so they are tightened down evenly.

Type 17 · 25-11-2018 6:49pm

Weepsie wrote: »

...I'm giving up. The front derailleur won't cooperate with the new chainset. Think the chainset has a wider spindle or q factor?,

I was dropping the FD a mere 2-3 mm, but mayve gone slightly too far. No amount of adjustment can fix it from me.

Off to the lbs with it, and I'll get them to recable it anyway

Check the limits, obviously, but also confirm that the inner wire is routed correctly under the pinch bolt - putting it in the wrong side of the bolt (or the wrong wide of any guide-pin or boss) changes the effective length of the cable pull-arm and will screw up the pull-ratio of the shifter.

Weepsie · 25-11-2018 8:59pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Check the limits, obviously, but also confirm that the inner wire is routed correctly under the pinch bolt - putting it in the wrong side of the bolt (or the wrong wide of any guide-pin or boss) changes the effective length of the cable pull-arm and will screw up the pull-ratio of the shifter.

Cables are well overdue a change, so just doing them might be the solution. Still I'll leave it in I guess, I've another bike needing new cables and it's a little more straightforward so I'll do that one

magicbastarder · 25-11-2018 9:46pm

Weepsie wrote: »

@Edit, get a new BB. They're cheap, and some of them are easy to install.

or else do what i did and leave the old one in; if it's OK, it's OK, so don't make work for yourself. plus, i loathe throwing things out unless they are actually shot.

Plastik · 26-11-2018 12:02am

EDit wrote: »

Based on some of the responses above, I think I’ll leave the installation to the experts

Next questions are related to the BB...I realise I need the groupset and cables, but is a new BB recommended? The one on my bike (bike is 2.5 yrs old, done > 5000k, regularly serviced) is actually compatible with the new groupset. However, I don’t know if it is advisable to start “clean” on everything. Also, the advice for the new groupset says you can use the BB I already have or a pressfit one...is there any benefit switching to a pressfit BB?

For clarity, the BB options are the Shimano BBR60 or Shimano Road Pressfit (new groupset will be Ultegra R8000)

Unless the BB is rough I would leave it alone. Bearings don't need to be changed until they start running rough. 5,000k would be very low mileage to be wearing one out. I have nearly 16,000km on one I installed last year and have run it every day through every imaginable weather. Until there's play in the bearings, it won't be changed.

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 10:52am

Deano12345 wrote: »

The bolts would get a fair bit of jarring around so if they were installed without thread lock, I could see them working slightly loose.

If it’s a 6 bolt disc it’s normally a TORX T20/25. Easy job to do yourself, just tighten them diagonally so they are tightened down evenly.

Where are the bolts that need tightening? See attached!

There's a good old rattle off it now. It's the actual disc part that is loose. It makes a fair bit of noise when i go over any bump now.

cletus · 26-11-2018 11:32am

It looks like all the bolts (machine screws really) are gone. Have a look at the rear disc to compare, but the series of holes near the centre are where they would usually be

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 11:35am

cletus wrote: »

It looks like all the bolts (machine screws really) are gone. Have a look at the rear disc to compare, but the series of holes near the centre are where they would usually be

Cheers, is it safe to cycle? I don't want to go ass over tits this evening.

cletus · 26-11-2018 12:20pm

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Cheers, is it safe to cycle? I don't want to go ass over tits this evening.

Did you compare to the rear disc to confirm its bolted on?

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 12:26pm

cletus wrote: »

Did you compare to the rear disc to confirm its bolted on?

Yeah, they're both the same. I can wiggle the front disc, the back one is held firm.

There's holes in both discs and they are resting into plastic struts sticking out. Is that where you're saying the bolts should be?

TychoCaine · 26-11-2018 12:38pm

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Yeah, they're both the same. I can wiggle the front disc, the back one is held firm.

There's holes in both discs and they are resting into plastic struts sticking out. Is that where you're saying the bolts should be?

Hang on a second boys. That's a 6 bolt disk plus an adapter on a centre-lock hub, so forget everything mentioned above. You need to take the wheel off, get a Shimano cassette tool (which also works on centre-lock lock rings) and use it to tighten the black ring (the bit that says "Lock 40Nms") that holds everything together. If you don't have one take it to a bike shop. They'll do it in 30 seconds.

cletus · 26-11-2018 12:41pm

Yep, just took a closer look at the picture. Ray, it's the black circle with the "Lock 40N.m" printed on it. The plastic pins locate the disc

*Edit* apologies, only seeing the post above mine now

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 12:51pm

TychoCaine wrote: »

Hang on a second boys. That's a 6 bolt disk plus an adapter on a centre-lock hub, so forget everything mentioned above. You need to take the wheel off, get a Shimano cassette tool (which also works on centre-lock lock rings) and use it to tighten the black ring (the bit that says "Lock 40Nms") that holds everything together. If you don't have one take it to a bike shop. They'll do it in 30 seconds.

cletus wrote: »

Yep, just took a closer look at the picture. Ray, it's the black circle with the "Lock 40N.m" printed on it. The plastic pins locate the disc

*Edit* apologies, only seeing the post above mine now

Thanks lads, i'll spin by the LBS tonight.

LollipopJimmy · 26-11-2018 1:04pm

If you're near D8 I have the tool needed, will take 2 seconds

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 1:11pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

If you're near D8 I have the tool needed, will take 2 seconds

Cheers for the offer Jimmy. I'm going to drop it in to be serviced this evening altogether though.

Mickiemcfist · 26-11-2018 1:54pm

How fast do you guys go through brake pads? I've changed my commuter from a MTB with disk brakes to a road bike with normal ones & seem to have gone through a set of rear pads in c. 1k km. Are they just a bad compound (came with bike) or is that relatively normal?

Just want to know as I'll stock up on them if it's normal enough. My commute is Stephens green to Foxrock church, if that makes any odds.

BoardsMember · 26-11-2018 2:11pm

Wondering if people can point me in the right direction for bricks and mortar shop that has good stock for mountain bike gear - been looking online and it is too hard to size for my 13 year old. Am in Dublin. Looking for elbow/knee/wrist guards, helmet with detachable full face.

Thanks.

Type 17 · 26-11-2018 3:21pm

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

How fast do you guys go through brake pads? I've changed my commuter from a MTB with disk brakes to a road bike with normal ones & seem to have gone through a set of rear pads in c. 1k km. Are they just a bad compound (came with bike) or is that relatively normal?

Just want to know as I'll stock up on them if it's normal enough. My commute is Stephens green to Foxrock church, if that makes any odds.

It varies greatly, based on stuff like pad compound, weather conditions (probably the biggest factor - wet weather means more grit sticking to surfaces/more wear of rim/pads) and your bike/rider combined weight and route (some good hills on your route).

If you're wearing the rears before the fronts, try using the fronts more (ie: using them more equally). Fronts do more work, all things being equal (weight thrown forward while braking), so they should be wearing more quickly, or at least equally to the rears.

As a general rule, softer pads provide better stopping, but wear faster, harder pads last longer, but aren't as 'grippy'. ie: If you find pads wearing too fast, try a harder compound, but be aware that their stopping power might be poorer.

Mickiemcfist · 26-11-2018 4:25pm

Type 17 wrote: »

It varies greatly, based on stuff like pad compound, weather conditions (probably the biggest factor - wet weather means more grit sticking to surfaces/more wear of rim/pads) and your bike/rider combined weight and route (some good hills on your route).

If you're wearing the rears before the fronts, try using the fronts more (ie: using them more equally). Fronts do more work, all things being equal (weight thrown forward while braking), so they should be wearing more quickly, or at least equally to the rears.

As a general rule, softer pads provide better stopping, but wear faster, harder pads last longer, but aren't as 'grippy'. ie: If you find pads wearing too fast, try a harder compound, but be aware that their stopping power might be poorer.

Ah I guess I'm just going to have to stock up so! I'm 105kg plus the bike, cycle in all weather & prefer brakes to be as grippy as possible.

I also must start using the front brakes, I rarely use them tbh!

CramCycle · 26-11-2018 5:43pm

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

I also must start using the front brakes, I rarely use them tbh!

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

Mickiemcfist · 26-11-2018 5:47pm

CramCycle wrote: »

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

I suppose my instinct is should I skid the rear wheel under braking I've a better chance of managing the bike, if I was to lose the front I'd lose my front teeth!

I tend to use the rear, then feather the front sort of similar to how ABS works, I must read up on a better technique

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-11-2018 5:48pm

CramCycle wrote: »

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

wat

I only use the front brakes to stop the bike rolling away when i'm scratching my arse at traffic lights.

CramCycle · 26-11-2018 6:05pm

Ask Google and Sheldon will answer:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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