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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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cletus

The park tools video series is excellent for most jobs on a bike

LollipopJimmy

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm going to try recable a bike later on for the first time ever. I fully expect to make a mess of it.

I don't believe it's possible for human to do this, I'm fairly certain bikeshops use some form of secret alien to do it.

Deano12345

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I don't believe it's possible for human to do this, I'm fairly certain bikeshops use some form of secret alien to do it.

Done mine during the week. Forgot to run string where the old cables were, made me want to cry

Type 17

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I don't believe it's possible for human to do this, I'm fairly certain bikeshops use some form of secret alien to do it.

You are correct, earthling...

[Deleted User]

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm going to try recable a bike later on for the first time ever. I fully expect to make a mess of it.

That feeling when I got the bar tape on all nice only to realise I'd not wrapped the cables was something i'll not forget in a hurry or a mistake i'll make again

EDit

Based on some of the responses above, I think I’ll leave the installation to the experts

Next questions are related to the BB...I realise I need the groupset and cables, but is a new BB recommended? The one on my bike (bike is 2.5 yrs old, done > 5000k, regularly serviced) is actually compatible with the new groupset. However, I don’t know if it is advisable to start “clean” on everything. Also, the advice for the new groupset says you can use the BB I already have or a pressfit one...is there any benefit switching to a pressfit BB?

For clarity, the BB options are the Shimano BBR60 or Shimano Road Pressfit (new groupset will be Ultegra R8000)

Ray Bloody Purchase

Front disc is loose on the disc brake. It's rattles when I cycle. Is it safe to continue cycling on it and will it do any damage?

I'm bringing it in after payday for a service.

Is it an easy fix, if I were to do it myself?

magicbastarder

if it's just a case of tightening some bolts, then i'd do that immediately. no way would i want a front brake i have doubts over.

Deano12345

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Front disc is loose on the disc brake. It's rattles when I cycle. Is it safe to continue cycling on it and will it do any damage?

I'm bringing it in after payday for a service.

Is it an easy fix, if I were to do it myself?

The bolts would get a fair bit of jarring around so if they were installed without thread lock, I could see them working slightly loose.

If it’s a 6 bolt disc it’s normally a TORX T20/25. Easy job to do yourself, just tighten them diagonally so they are tightened down evenly.

Type 17

Weepsie wrote: »

...I'm giving up. The front derailleur won't cooperate with the new chainset. Think the chainset has a wider spindle or q factor?,

I was dropping the FD a mere 2-3 mm, but mayve gone slightly too far. No amount of adjustment can fix it from me.

Off to the lbs with it, and I'll get them to recable it anyway

Check the limits, obviously, but also confirm that the inner wire is routed correctly under the pinch bolt - putting it in the wrong side of the bolt (or the wrong wide of any guide-pin or boss) changes the effective length of the cable pull-arm and will screw up the pull-ratio of the shifter.

magicbastarder

Weepsie wrote: »

@Edit, get a new BB. They're cheap, and some of them are easy to install.

or else do what i did and leave the old one in; if it's OK, it's OK, so don't make work for yourself. plus, i loathe throwing things out unless they are actually shot.

Plastik

EDit wrote: »

Based on some of the responses above, I think I’ll leave the installation to the experts

Next questions are related to the BB...I realise I need the groupset and cables, but is a new BB recommended? The one on my bike (bike is 2.5 yrs old, done > 5000k, regularly serviced) is actually compatible with the new groupset. However, I don’t know if it is advisable to start “clean” on everything. Also, the advice for the new groupset says you can use the BB I already have or a pressfit one...is there any benefit switching to a pressfit BB?

For clarity, the BB options are the Shimano BBR60 or Shimano Road Pressfit (new groupset will be Ultegra R8000)

Unless the BB is rough I would leave it alone. Bearings don't need to be changed until they start running rough. 5,000k would be very low mileage to be wearing one out. I have nearly 16,000km on one I installed last year and have run it every day through every imaginable weather. Until there's play in the bearings, it won't be changed.

Ray Bloody Purchase

Deano12345 wrote: »

The bolts would get a fair bit of jarring around so if they were installed without thread lock, I could see them working slightly loose.

If it’s a 6 bolt disc it’s normally a TORX T20/25. Easy job to do yourself, just tighten them diagonally so they are tightened down evenly.

Where are the bolts that need tightening? See attached!

There's a good old rattle off it now. It's the actual disc part that is loose. It makes a fair bit of noise when i go over any bump now.

cletus

It looks like all the bolts (machine screws really) are gone. Have a look at the rear disc to compare, but the series of holes near the centre are where they would usually be

Ray Bloody Purchase

cletus wrote: »

It looks like all the bolts (machine screws really) are gone. Have a look at the rear disc to compare, but the series of holes near the centre are where they would usually be

Cheers, is it safe to cycle? I don't want to go ass over tits this evening.

cletus

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Cheers, is it safe to cycle? I don't want to go ass over tits this evening.

Did you compare to the rear disc to confirm its bolted on?

Ray Bloody Purchase

cletus wrote: »

Did you compare to the rear disc to confirm its bolted on?

Yeah, they're both the same. I can wiggle the front disc, the back one is held firm.

There's holes in both discs and they are resting into plastic struts sticking out. Is that where you're saying the bolts should be?

TychoCaine

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Yeah, they're both the same. I can wiggle the front disc, the back one is held firm.

There's holes in both discs and they are resting into plastic struts sticking out. Is that where you're saying the bolts should be?

Hang on a second boys. That's a 6 bolt disk plus an adapter on a centre-lock hub, so forget everything mentioned above. You need to take the wheel off, get a Shimano cassette tool (which also works on centre-lock lock rings) and use it to tighten the black ring (the bit that says "Lock 40Nms") that holds everything together. If you don't have one take it to a bike shop. They'll do it in 30 seconds.

cletus

Yep, just took a closer look at the picture. Ray, it's the black circle with the "Lock 40N.m" printed on it. The plastic pins locate the disc

*Edit* apologies, only seeing the post above mine now

Ray Bloody Purchase

TychoCaine wrote: »

Hang on a second boys. That's a 6 bolt disk plus an adapter on a centre-lock hub, so forget everything mentioned above. You need to take the wheel off, get a Shimano cassette tool (which also works on centre-lock lock rings) and use it to tighten the black ring (the bit that says "Lock 40Nms") that holds everything together. If you don't have one take it to a bike shop. They'll do it in 30 seconds.

cletus wrote: »

Yep, just took a closer look at the picture. Ray, it's the black circle with the "Lock 40N.m" printed on it. The plastic pins locate the disc

*Edit* apologies, only seeing the post above mine now

Thanks lads, i'll spin by the LBS tonight.

LollipopJimmy

If you're near D8 I have the tool needed, will take 2 seconds

Ray Bloody Purchase

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

If you're near D8 I have the tool needed, will take 2 seconds

Cheers for the offer Jimmy. I'm going to drop it in to be serviced this evening altogether though.

Mickiemcfist

How fast do you guys go through brake pads? I've changed my commuter from a MTB with disk brakes to a road bike with normal ones & seem to have gone through a set of rear pads in c. 1k km. Are they just a bad compound (came with bike) or is that relatively normal?

Just want to know as I'll stock up on them if it's normal enough. My commute is Stephens green to Foxrock church, if that makes any odds.

BoardsMember

Wondering if people can point me in the right direction for bricks and mortar shop that has good stock for mountain bike gear - been looking online and it is too hard to size for my 13 year old. Am in Dublin. Looking for elbow/knee/wrist guards, helmet with detachable full face.

Thanks.

Type 17

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

How fast do you guys go through brake pads? I've changed my commuter from a MTB with disk brakes to a road bike with normal ones & seem to have gone through a set of rear pads in c. 1k km. Are they just a bad compound (came with bike) or is that relatively normal?

Just want to know as I'll stock up on them if it's normal enough. My commute is Stephens green to Foxrock church, if that makes any odds.

It varies greatly, based on stuff like pad compound, weather conditions (probably the biggest factor - wet weather means more grit sticking to surfaces/more wear of rim/pads) and your bike/rider combined weight and route (some good hills on your route).

If you're wearing the rears before the fronts, try using the fronts more (ie: using them more equally). Fronts do more work, all things being equal (weight thrown forward while braking), so they should be wearing more quickly, or at least equally to the rears.

As a general rule, softer pads provide better stopping, but wear faster, harder pads last longer, but aren't as 'grippy'. ie: If you find pads wearing too fast, try a harder compound, but be aware that their stopping power might be poorer.

Mickiemcfist

Type 17 wrote: »

It varies greatly, based on stuff like pad compound, weather conditions (probably the biggest factor - wet weather means more grit sticking to surfaces/more wear of rim/pads) and your bike/rider combined weight and route (some good hills on your route).

If you're wearing the rears before the fronts, try using the fronts more (ie: using them more equally). Fronts do more work, all things being equal (weight thrown forward while braking), so they should be wearing more quickly, or at least equally to the rears.

As a general rule, softer pads provide better stopping, but wear faster, harder pads last longer, but aren't as 'grippy'. ie: If you find pads wearing too fast, try a harder compound, but be aware that their stopping power might be poorer.

Ah I guess I'm just going to have to stock up so! I'm 105kg plus the bike, cycle in all weather & prefer brakes to be as grippy as possible.

I also must start using the front brakes, I rarely use them tbh!

CramCycle

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

I also must start using the front brakes, I rarely use them tbh!

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

Mickiemcfist

CramCycle wrote: »

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

I suppose my instinct is should I skid the rear wheel under braking I've a better chance of managing the bike, if I was to lose the front I'd lose my front teeth!

I tend to use the rear, then feather the front sort of similar to how ABS works, I must read up on a better technique

Ray Bloody Purchase

CramCycle wrote: »

I was the same when I was younger but after having it explained to me, I learned that the front brakes are the most important and should be used far more often. I rarely use my back brakes at all now.

wat

I only use the front brakes to stop the bike rolling away when i'm scratching my arse at traffic lights.

CramCycle

Ask Google and Sheldon will answer:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html