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Hi all, please see this major site announcement: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058427594/boards-ie-2026
The "Today I did something to my bike" thread
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I'm old enough to remember when you could buy c*r maintenance magazines* which actually recommended bashing a big screwdriver through the filter and then turning that :pac:
There is an official Triumph oil filter tightening/removal tool which is like a huge socket but made of plastic, I threw it into an order a few years back for a few quid when I was buying lots of other stuff. The idea is (presumably) that you can't overtighten the filter waay too much because the plastic will deform and it'll slip. Problem then is that if you try to undo an overtightened filter with this, it'll slip too. An unbranded version of this yoke sorted it out for me no problem, cost me a tenner at a classsic bike show.
How it got overtightened in the first place was because, like a complete gombeen, I was tightening the filter like it says in the manual, using a torque wrench for some stupid torque level like 5 or 10 Nm. Unless you have a very small range torque wrench it's much too easy to not notice the click at such a low torque and just keep tightening. It took the oil filter incident and a stripped brake caliper pin before I decided to never use a torque wrench on low torque bolts again, and just go by what felt reasonable using as short a bar as possible.
* Hard to imagine these days but they actually advertised these on TV and presumably people actually bought them. Nobody can be bothered reading the handbook to find out what the idiot lights mean these days, it's hard to imagine that there used to be a market for buying a magazine every week for 2 years or so just to find out how to fix your cage, and people actually did their own work too. Putting air into the tyres is too much for most these days.I'm partial to your abracadabra
I'm raptured by the joy of it all0 -
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »How it got overtightened in the first place was because, like a complete gombeen, I was tightening the filter like it says in the manual, using a torque wrench for some stupid torque level like 5 or 10 Nm.
Use a torque wrench? What Book of Lies was that?
5 Nm isn't even a "ah", even "uh" is about 20. "Hurrghhh" is about 100.
I never got on with those Manx :pac: -style removal tools. So I bought a fancy automatic band for working on the cars (given the types/accessibility of the ones I have):
IMG_20150920_243702_049 by macplaxton, on Flickr
Then I bought a Berlin foot-warmer and found that they decided to bury the spin on canister in the casing (doh) so yet another tool was needed, so a Mahle OCS1 cup-type was bought. (There was a K&N filter with a nut on it, but I don't think much of their innards).
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two wheels good wrote: »Maybe some people don't realise that the (canister) filter o-ring should be oiled before fitting. Hand-tight is more than tight enough.
A trick I've read about dealing with a seized filter is to place sandpaper between filter and removal tool - esp. effective with cup-type tool photo-ed above apparently.
A screwdriver rammed through the filter then beat with a hammer will get a fella back on the road to
. I’m using a k&n filter with a nut tacked on the seems solid enough. 0 -
A screwdriver rammed through the filter then beat with a hammer will get a fella back on the road to. I’m using a k&n filter with a nut tacked on the seems solid enough.
Not a 204 filter ?
https://www.knfilters.com/recallkn2040 -
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The pink stuff is usually OAT which shouldn't be used unless the manufacturer recommends it, and it shouldn't be mixed with the glycol based stuff (usually blue)
Give the system a good flush out with a hose (wait until the hosepipe ban is over
) until only clean water comes out. It's usually worth flushing the rad in each direction or even removing it to flush it upside down depending on the amount of gunk in the system, it's likely the coolant was never changed.
Then fill up with the blue stuff (dilute the concentrate with distilled water, or buy pre-mix)
There might be a bleed screw in the water pump or top of the radiator that needs to be opened to get any air bubbles out.I'm partial to your abracadabra
I'm raptured by the joy of it all0 -
Hotblack Desiato wrote: »The pink stuff is usually OAT which shouldn't be used unless the manufacturer recommends it, and it shouldn't be mixed with the glycol based stuff (usually blue)
Give the system a good flush out with a hose (wait until the hosepipe ban is over ) until only clean water comes out. It's usually worth flushing the rad in each direction or even removing it to flush it upside down depending on the amount of gunk in the system, it's likely the coolant was never changed.
Then fill up with the blue stuff (dilute the concentrate with distilled water, or buy pre-mix)
There might be a bleed screw in the water pump or top of the radiator that needs to be opened to get any air bubbles out.
Thx is for that H.D I’ll flush it out with a bucket of water and a funnel tomorrow to circumvent the hose ban
G12 is the stuff I have used in my car and thought it might work on the moped as well.
It’s a YQ50 Yamaha engine BTW0 -
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Prisoner 6753 wrote: »
On a separate note I got a givi box for my V-Strom, a blade I think is the name on it.
Yep,I told them they can use my name but I get a cut from every box they sell 0 -
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Prisoner 6753 wrote: »Just back to my coolant issue CJ.
It’s Motul. Is that stuff good?
Yep, that's what I used around 2 weeks ago.Coolant flush while I'm at it
Motul Inugel Expert €26 for 5litres.
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I have on that bike.
Soon enough I must start thinking of going at another one.
My ZZR.
I may not ride it much over the winter so it could be anytime between now and next summer when I do it.
List of stuff to do to it..
Tyres
Chain and sprockets
Grease headstock/Swingarm/linkage bearings.
Thinking of getting my forks and rear suspension serviced or upgraded.
Valve clearance will need doing soon which I don't fancy doing myself as space is just too tight for me to do it without it annoying me.
Almost sold it a few months ago as I had my eye on a newer one but it was sold the morning I went about it.
Had a buyer for my own (2 infact).
I've thought about selling it a few times in the 5 years I have it.
People keep asking me to sell it to them.
I then polish it and stand back and say "Why would I want to sell that?" :pac:
You’ll have your hands full with that workload.
Is it the 1100 zzr you have?
Just the 2 bikes??
If you have pride in your bike and like it that much why not keep it 0 -
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2007 ZZR 1400.Prisoner 6753 wrote: »You’ll have your hands full with that workload.
Is it the 1100 zzr you have?
Just the 2 bikes??
If you have pride in your bike and like it that much why not keep it
Yeah, it's a lovely bike and it's in beautiful condition.
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Dunno about all this silicate free stuff though, does it matter and is there really any difference with bike specific coolant?
The workshop manual for mine specifies "Mobil Antifreeze". That's it. I went to Halfords and there were two types of Mobil Antifreeze. I said fcuk it and bought their own brand pre-mix stuff I'm partial to your abracadabra
I'm raptured by the joy of it all0
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