Arcade Talk 24/7/365

bipedal · 02-06-2018 10:42pm

Rather than make my own thread, I figured I'd post here first. Let me know if I'm out of line.

Without giving too much away and colouring everyone's perceptions: I'm in the research phase of a documentary and I'm looking to talk to some people about various arcade-related things.

Have a nice collection of perfectly maintained candy cabs? Great. Own (or know someone who owns) a single machine in a shed that hasn't been powered on in ages? Fantastic. Emulate? That's fine too. Go to expos and meetups and stuff? Perfect. Planning on acquiring something? Fine. Buy/sell/make replacement parts? Cool.

Contacting me doesn't have to mean you're interested in actually being filmed; at this stage I'm only trying to get a feel for the community and how I want to proceed. Please PM me if you can help or know someone who might be able to.

Thanks very much.

o1s1n · 08-06-2018 8:39pm

How far do you lads keep your arcade machines (those with CRTs) apart from each other?

Whenever I see a row of candy cabs in a photo, they always seem to be right up against each other. However, whenever I try that at home, the magnetic fields from the CRTs interact with each other and you get a very feint wobble.

Was playing about with with it this evening and you need about 10cm between the machines before the CRTs stop interacting with each other.

It's pretty annoying actually as I've a storage heater on the wall beside them, which has it's own magentic field. So I have to go;

Storage heater - 15cm - cabinet - 10cm - second cabinet.

So they're the guts of a foot out further than they should be. :mad:

I guess as much as I'd like to be, I'm not Magneto so will just have to deal with it. Maybe the storage heater needs to go...

The Last Bandit · 08-06-2018 8:43pm

Just replace those awkward CRTs with modern sensible LCD panels and you'll be sorted

08-06-2018 8:44pm

Two Astros beside each other, naomis beside each other, atomiswave beside outrun no wobble, dinos beside each other, no wobble, cocktail on its own.. wobble.. but thats from the tranformer inside it. Really strange your getting it, maybe something else in the room? Oh cocktail in the shed, no wobble..or monitor

bipedal · 08-06-2018 8:53pm

Do you still get interference if you swap them around? Maybe one side is more prone to it than the other?

Maybe you can hang a bundle of sage leaves inside the coin door to ward off the bad fields?

o1s1n · 08-06-2018 8:54pm

It's definitely the monitors interacting with each other alright, as when I distance the cabinets further apart the issue goes away.

By wobble I don't mean it's jumping all over the place by the way. If a game is running you don't really see it.

However, if you have a still image on one of the monitors (I was using the 111 in 1 MVS board to test it out, so yellow static letters on a black background), you can see the phosphors on the edge of a letter flickering slightly.

I thought it might be a sign of a cap failing, however when I moved the cabinets further apart it stopped happening.

The Pony cabinet itself is incredibly slim, the edges of it are right up to the monitor. So I guess when the cabs are together it's pretty much like the Pony monitor is right up against the SNK one.

o1s1n · 08-06-2018 9:18pm

Deleted User wrote: »

Two Astros beside each other, naomis beside each other, atomiswave beside outrun no wobble, dinos beside each other, no wobble, cocktail on its own.. wobble.. but thats from the tranformer inside it. Really strange your getting it, maybe something else in the room? Oh cocktail in the shed, no wobble..or monitor

By the way, how many cabs do you have now? :eek: Am I going mad or did I see over on AO that you're restoring an MT-8?

08-06-2018 9:39pm

o1s1n wrote: »

By the way, how many cabs do you have now? :eek: Am I going mad or did I see over on AO that you're restoring an MT-8?

Haha 10 atm and another on route for my summer project (ill post pics when its complete :pac:) no thats not my mt-8 unfortunately thats someone else on here

I actually had one held when they first were found years back but passed it on to someone else due to availability of parts etc. Sure would be a nice project though, albeit an expensive one but then again arent they all..

Hyzepher · 10-06-2018 12:19am

Hi

I'm in the process of building a Mortal Kombat 2 cabinet and it looks like i'm short a few feet of red t-moulding. Before I go off and go online to get it I was wondering if someone here had it to spare - save me buying so little with shipping costs etc?

thanks in advance

o1s1n · 12-06-2018 10:50am

10?! Pics or I don't believe you

Anyone see the mad prices people are looking for Progear CPS2 conversions these days?

Back when I was thinking about maybe getting one, they were about 100 quid and the real board was close to 500.

Now the asking price on conversions is near to 500. :eek:

Seems utterly insane as the original board has an interesting setup chip wise (If I remember correctly they've got what looks like additional sticks of RAM?) which the conversion boards don't have.

12-06-2018 1:09pm

I'll try get some pics up stat..

progear conversions are still 120, don't know who would pay anymore than that just dreamers listing them, it's not even a hard conversion and the info is out there. Yeah the original looks entirely different. Cave's other stuff has gone completely insane though..

12-06-2018 8:20pm

Dont forgot the pinballs!

12-06-2018 9:05pm

Course not, was asked about the machines, hopefully get that sorted during the summer too... you know its bad when you need two locations

Steve X2 · 04-07-2018 7:22pm

Anyone ever used a Hantarex polo 25" chassis on a 28" Polo screen? I need to replace/fix the chassis on my Point Blank arcade machine I can buy a 25" chassis no problem.

Inviere · 04-07-2018 8:13pm

Steve X2 wrote: »

Anyone ever used a Hantarex polo 25" chassis on a 28" Polo screen? I need to replace/fix the chassis on my Point Blank arcade machine I can buy a 25" chassis no problem.

When I first got the Tekken 3 cab, it had a 19"/21" polo chassis in it, as opposed to the 25" it should have had. It couldn't fill the screen, no matter what way it was adjusted. I only found out because Grantspain went through a few things with me and he concluded it was the wrong chassis, which indeed it was!

Steve X2 · 04-07-2018 10:04pm

Inviere wrote: »

When I first got the Tekken 3 cab, it had a 19"/21" polo chassis in it, as opposed to the 25" it should have had. It couldn't fill the screen, no matter what way it was adjusted. I only found out because Grantspain went through a few things with me and he concluded it was the wrong chassis, which indeed it was!

After a bit of looking around and what some others have said the 25" and 28" chassis are more or less the same. I might take the risk

Steve X2 · 05-07-2018 2:37pm

So I went ahead and purchased a polo 25” chassis for my 28” polo. Will report back if it worked or not.

eddhorse · 06-07-2018 9:43am

Steve X2 wrote: »

So I went ahead and purchased a polo 25” chassis for my 28” polo. Will report back if it worked or not.

Ballsy, where do you order them things?

Steve X2 · 06-07-2018 11:10am

eddhorse wrote: »

Ballsy, where do you order them things?

I got this one from a guy over on ukvac.com
If it doesn't actually work I'm already sending over the current one to get repaired.

Inviere · 06-07-2018 11:48am

Steve X2 wrote: »

I got this one from a guy over on ukvac.com
If it doesn't actually work I'm already sending over the current one to get repaired.

Which cab is that from Steve, the Point Blank? I’ve a very vague recollection from my own Polo hassles years ago, that you’re right in thinking the 25’s are the same as the 28’s.

Steve X2 · 06-07-2018 11:51am

Inviere wrote: »

Which cab is that from Steve, the Point Blank? I’ve a very vague recollection from my own Polo hassles years ago, that you’re right in thinking the 25’s are the same as the 28’s.

Yeah, the Point Blank. The screen/display collapsed a while back and its been on my list to get fixed.
Moved into a new place in April so only getting around to it now. As you know its a hefty machine, so sitting in my arcade room and being of no use eventually got to me

06-07-2018 1:25pm

Guys,
Pinball league is on this Sunday the 15th in Naas.
Anyone who needs the info hit me up.
Will have 5 games on the day and 3 vids to play.

Steve X2 · 07-07-2018 8:01pm

New chassis coming on Monday/Tuesday so getting the Point Blank ready for it. Taking the old one out was a lot easier than i was expecting.
I also took out the large mirror and was surprised how minty it was, didn't really need a clean(I gave it one anyway)

BGOllie · 07-07-2018 9:44pm

still jealous of that ridge racer

Steve X2 · 07-07-2018 10:49pm

BGOllie wrote: »

still jealous of that ridge racer

Yeah, it's a nice one to have

Stoner · 09-07-2018 12:14am

o1s1n wrote:

It's pretty annoying actually as I've a storage heater on the wall beside them, which has it's own magentic field. So I have to go;

o1s1n wrote:

Storage heater - 15cm - cabinet - 10cm - second cabinet.

That's doesn't sound great o1s1n

Have you tried ferrite cores on the input and output of switching mode power supplies.

The storage heater I would imagine would have more of an electric component than magnetic

Also it will only be an issue between 11 pm and 6 am. Plus I'd be more worried about heat damage.

Have you tried adding additional steel 1mm thick to the inside of the cabs to shield it ?
The solid floor from cable basket 300mm thick by 3 m is cheap enough.

Steve X2 · 12-07-2018 1:54pm

So, the other Point Blank chassis arrived and i got it installed. Still no life in the screen

I'm guessing the monitor is dead, or there's a power issue somewhere. I did swap out the psu for a new one just to be sure, but no change. I can hear the game playing, but no display.

The Last Bandit · 12-07-2018 2:19pm

Can you even hear a static crackle as the tube powers up or feel and static build up on it ?

o1s1n · 12-07-2018 2:27pm

Stoner wrote: »

That's doesn't sound great o1s1n

Have you tried ferrite cores on the input and output of switching mode power supplies.

The storage heater I would imagine would have more of an electric component than magnetic

Also it will only be an issue between 11 pm and 6 am. Plus I'd be more worried about heat damage.

Have you tried adding additional steel 1mm thick to the inside of the cabs to shield it ?
The solid floor from cable basket 300mm thick by 3 m is cheap enough.

I'm thinking more the electromagnetic field around the storage heater. It's impacting a CRT when placed too close to it.

It's not instant, so the magnetism isn't insanely strong, but you can see it drawing the colour purity out of the monitor on the edges over time. Would just get progressively worse if left like that.

I've it far enough away anyway now so it doesn't impact it anymore.

That's me assuming it's the heater because it's the only thing in that part of the room BTW, there might be something else in the structure of the building, in the walls that I can't see which is radiating magnetic death rays

Steve X2 · 12-07-2018 3:50pm

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Can you even hear a static crackle as the tube powers up or feel and static build up on it ?

I'm an idiot, i hadn't plugged in a cable that was hiding(power connector to the chassis)

Ok, so i got the everything up and running, the anode on the new chassis isn't the best and doesn't clip in as nice as the original one, but it works. Screen looks as good as before i think, slightly less sharp around the edges but i think it always was a little. This was more to prove the screen/cab was ok as I'll be getting the original chassis sent off to grant to be repaired.

Now, I was testing for a while(5 mins) and there was a hissing and lots of smoke from where the kettle lead plugs in to the back of the cab. I pulled the power and the smoke was definitely coming from that and not the screen, chassis or anode. So perhaps a grounding issue?

I had the cab opened up and maybe I had not connected up all the ground cables so i'm hoping it's just that. I did notice some sort of brown grease around the plug connector at the back that wasn't there before, weird.

Anyway, i was brave/silly and plugged back in and everything still works. So I'll replace the power in section anyway as its a cheap part.

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