Tractor won't start

No, but I couldn’t see it being a big task, push button would be best so it can’t be left on accidentally.

I wired ours myself. It works at the start position. But with the tractor in gear there is a protection in the gear box to prevent the starter turning.

So, we pop her in gear, hold the key in the start position for 30/60 seconds. Then pop her out of gear and the starter cranks.

larthehar wrote: »

By right you should only heat for a max of 30sec. With our 35, swing the engine cold just once, heat for 20 sec, with a slackened throttle fire it and as it swings up pull the throttle and away she goes..
Incorrect Valve clearances are a common enough problem too and is easy enough to check and adjust..

Your correct.
Also running the heater plugs too long can warp the valve within, this can then consistently leak in a small amount of diesel leaving the engine smokey when running.

Well if it's only barely turning over as previous poster advised. Your battery could be knackered.. easiest and cheapest way to test this would be to connect battery in tractor to another vehicle with good quality jump leads and make sure the other vehicle is at fast tick over .. engine revved up above 1000 rpm anyway.. if your tractor now turns engine over quickly. Then the battery you refer to as being fully charged is knackered. Ie don't rely on the charger to say all is ok. If battery was high. Discharge tested it would give a true reflection of the battery condition. It's either good or. Knackered..

If with jump leads connected to another vehicle that is running and tractor engine is still refusing to swing over quickly then it's most likely the starter motor and a new battery won't solve your problem

sea12 wrote: »

Quick update. Got a new battery last month and it worked perfect but unfortunately went dead this morning do it's definitely the alternator. Is it an easy job to replace.

Don't want to ask the mechanic I use cause he'd ride you barebavk snd sick of paying out big frees for simple jobs. Not the most mechanical minded but can use s few scanners to replace something if it's a simple enough job.

If you have a multi meter i would check the voltage directly off the altenator.. if it is 14.5V, check the same at the battery.. that will tell you if the connection is bad..
if you have to replace the altenator;

Take note of cable connections - what colour goes where and un plug all
Loosen two bolts hinging underneath
Loosen bolt on slider rail
Push in the altenator and lift off the belt
Remove all three bolts and off she comes..

Reverse to refit, just make sure the belt is tensioned enough..

Tomjim wrote: »

someone told me that I could heat the tractor engine with an infra red light in this cold weather when it is getting it hard to start. Is this true?

i use a heatgun down the air intake or a hairdrier you would'nt believe the difference it makes.

case956tom wrote: »

i use a heatgun down the air intake or a hairdrier you would'nt believe the difference it makes.

Those 956s can be a baste!d to start. Is your battery in front or at the step? They have no heater plugs at all I don't think? Unreal tractor though.

Tomjim wrote: »

heated the battery this morning with an electric fan heater and it worked, started first time.

Just wondering which would be the best area of the tractor to heat with the electric fan heaterto heat - the battery or the air inlet

i'd put the heat into the intake,done it here on a 3cx during the freezing weather in 09 the battery would hardly turn the engine a couple of minutes with a hairdryer instant start.

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

I was told they didn't have one ha, turn the key just past ignition and before the starter kicks in for a minute then like a normal yoak?

just turn the key to the first position the heater will come on it uses a relay with a timer in it,its a similar setup to the one in a diesel car.