Detailing chat

Curran · 06-01-2018 01:38AM

DaveyDave wrote: »

I noticed there's a lot of warnings on some of the cleaning stuff, is it worthwhile getting some gloves?

Definitely worth having a box of latex gloves for any work with cleaning products. Helps for the cold weather too, if you have a larger size, wear some thin gloves inside them. So long as you dont put your hand too far into the bucket, or they dont get ripped, your hands will be at least close to regular temperature when you come inside!

ianobrien · 06-01-2018 10:19AM

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

If you're not in ya can't win Gramps :pac:

Why you young whippersnapper! That's the problem with the youth of today, a total lack of respect! When I get my hands on you.....

In the meantime, Can you explain how I change the channel on this phone?

All messing aside, I'm not on bookface as I've no interest in broadcasting what I ate for breakfast and reading "u ok hun?" 20 times a day

08-01-2018 04:45PM

Any one recommend something for anti fog?
My windscreen is getting the lightest fog on the top 1/3,
its head wrecking!

Curran · 08-01-2018 05:53PM

CarPro Fog Fight

btkm8unsl0w5r4 · 08-01-2018 08:46PM

A very good video on wash technique....long mind you. The Ammo NYC guy is super OCD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awLX5qlY-Ts

ianobrien · 10-01-2018 04:25PM

BrownFinger wrote: »

Any one recommend something for anti fog?
My windscreen is getting the lightest fog on the top 1/3,
its head wrecking!

Curran wrote: »

CarPro Fog Fight

I'm another for FogFight. Works really well and i really push it hard (I use it on motorhome windscreens).

Word to the wise. Make sure the windscreen is TOTALLY spotless before application. I use IPA to clean it.

10-01-2018 04:50PM

ianobrien wrote: »

I'm another for FogFight. Works really well and i really push it hard (I use it on motorhome windscreens).

Word to the wise. Make sure the windscreen is TOTALLY spotless before application. I use IPA to clean it.

Thanks for the tip,
I ordered some earlier!:D

MetzgerMeister · 10-01-2018 05:04PM

What I didn't like about FogFight was that after buffing it left tiny particles of the orange cloth on the windscreen and there was also a film clearly visible when sun hit the glass.

Apart from that it's a very good product.

DaveyDave · 11-01-2018 05:10PM

Leona Wide Word wrote: »

A very good video on wash technique....long mind you. The Ammo NYC guy is super OCD.

I enjoyed watching his series, good to see a thorough guide that involves a regular hose and the basic products and supplies that everyone could use.

MetzgerMeister · 11-01-2018 05:11PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

I enjoyed watching his series, good to see a thorough guide that involves a regular hose and the basic products and supplies that everyone could use.

The reason for that is as he said in the video - someone starting out.

DaveyDave · 11-01-2018 05:50PM

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

The reason for that is as he said in the video - someone starting out.

Yeah, I feel silly for saying that

As someone still without access to foam though it's good to see a detailer showing that, a lot of them are straight out with the foam gun!

quadrifoglio verde · 13-01-2018 07:57PM

Got the 159 washed with Keith in 5star.
Compared to all the other car wash places in Dublin he's definitely the best.
Very good value at 15 quid too.

crasy dash · 15-01-2018 08:49AM

Lads didn't want to start a new thread but need advice on what product to use on a dirty cloth interior.

I have a George wet dry vacuum cleaner so something I can use with that and what dilution rate I should be using as well as best technique.
I assume a good vacuum first and remove as much debris before using the wet side of the vacuum cleaner.

Many thanks
Dash

Curran · 15-01-2018 12:34PM

Yes, a good vacuum initially. Then with the upholstery cleaner of choice, I'd give any spots that need extra attention a spray of the cleaner and a scrub with a nail brush (something not too aggressive as to no damage the material), and then use the wet vacuum to do the whole area.

You are looking for a low foaming upholstery cleaner; anything high foaming wont extract well, and will refoam on getting wet, and may even begin to smell. Chemical Guys Fabric Clean is a good product - diluted down 10:1 and see how it performs, increase if necessary.

Dehumidifier bags are handy to pick up in the likes of Home Store & More - fire them into the car after youve completed as much extraction as you can, to speed up the drying process.

crasy dash · 15-01-2018 08:36PM

Only home from work now but Have that ordered now got it on Detailing shed thanks for the friendly advice as always:)

DaveyDave · 17-01-2018 02:23AM

The Nilfisk C110 7-5 in my basket on Amazon went from £70 to £85, and the C110 4-5 is now £76. Anyone know if there's much difference between them?

Edit: Odd, clicking on the 4-5 model and there's an option for the 2017 Model, which is the 7-5 for £70.

Staring at the checkout debating on pulling the plug for one now, €84 not too bad...

Sean Quagmire · 19-01-2018 07:57PM

So Hydro2 diluation ratios..

Bottle and US Site says 1:6 water ratio

Carpro UK say 1:3

Big difference, what’s the ideal mix?

Curran · 20-01-2018 01:47PM

The ideal ratio is down to what you want to achieve from it.

1 product to 3 water for 1st application
1:10 for top ups
1:15 if you want to use it after each weekly wash to keep the car really shiny
1:6 if you only use it once a month

You get the idea!

22-01-2018 02:49PM

When are people using Iron X?
Applying to wet car or dry car?
Is it the last thing before polish/wax

Thanks

MetzgerMeister · 22-01-2018 04:17PM

You'd wash the car, dry it, then apply Iron X, powerwash it off once it's done its job then wash the car again.

Applying it to a wet car will only serve to dilute the product which makes it a waste.

Curran · 22-01-2018 04:31PM

As Metz has pointed out - wash the car, dry it and then apply and rinse off. A very quick was to ensure the residue is full removed. Then a claybar is recommended, followed by a wash and dry...and then a wax or sealant

MetzgerMeister · 22-01-2018 04:46PM

Maybe a good idea to use Tar-X during the same wash if needed.

22-01-2018 05:18PM

Roll on some decent weather !

DaveyDave · 22-01-2018 05:18PM

If just doing a Sunday wash (i.e, lazy), do you have to wash off tar/iron or is a thorough rinse with a pressure washer enough?

Is it bad to not clay afterwards? I was thinking of doing tar/iron remover but might hold off a little while longer if claying is needed that way I might as well do a wash in between each one and give it a good days work.

I don't plan on continuing with the AutoGlym Rapid Wax as it doesn't buff easily, even after soaking the car pre-wax. I'm open to suggestions of an easy spray on wax or something similar. I'm happy to just dry the car and leave as is but I do feel like it's bare and needs a layer on top.

MetzgerMeister · 22-01-2018 05:40PM

I always wash the car again after using an iron/tar remover just to ensure it's all been removed and there's no residue left over.

You don't necessarily have to clay it afterwards if you've clayed it 6 months before or less. The iron remover should lift out anything that would be clayed but claying afterwards just to have it done isn't a bad idea.

Noccy_Mondy · 22-01-2018 05:52PM

I was told superglue is OK to use on a kerb mark on a diamond cut wheel? Was turning right, manhole sticking about an inch above the road, caught the side of the rim. Little chunk taken out if the outer rim, and can see the exposed lifted lacquer. Don't want white worm to set in. Will superglue seal it up for me?

MetzgerMeister · 22-01-2018 05:55PM

It will but something like Gtechniq C5 or CQuartz DLUX would be a more preferable option given that they will stand up to washing and the elements etc.

Curran · 22-01-2018 06:01PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

If just doing a Sunday wash (i.e, lazy), do you have to wash off tar/iron or is a thorough rinse with a pressure washer enough?

Is it bad to not clay afterwards? I was thinking of doing tar/iron remover but might hold off a little while longer if claying is needed that way I might as well do a wash in between each one and give it a good days work.

I don't plan on continuing with the AutoGlym Rapid Wax as it doesn't buff easily, even after soaking the car pre-wax. I'm open to suggestions of an easy spray on wax or something similar. I'm happy to just dry the car and leave as is but I do feel like it's bare and needs a layer on top.

I think you are getting somewhat confused on the whole process.
The decontamination process is done by most approx every 6 months; and is a total strip back and re-applying your wax or sealant. Thats a wash, de-tar, de-iron and claybar to remove any bonded contamination that regular washing doesnt lift, but over time detracts from the paintworks overall appearance.

Your regular wash is just a matter of a wash, clean wheels, dry, dress tyres...snowfoam prior if you have access to it.

If you want something that is extremely easy to use; look into CarPro HydrO2. Dilutes to needs, but the first time using it, use it at 1 product to 3 water. Then after every wash if you want to top it up, use it at 1:15. While the car is wet, spray on, power wash off, then dry the car - bingo! the SiO2 in the product gives a really nice pop to the paintwork but also nice protection!

DaveyDave · 22-01-2018 07:46PM

Curran wrote: »

I think you are getting somewhat confused on the whole process.
The decontamination process is done by most approx every 6 months; and is a total strip back and re-applying your wax or sealant. Thats a wash, de-tar, de-iron and claybar to remove any bonded contamination that regular washing doesnt lift, but over time detracts from the paintworks overall appearance.

Your regular wash is just a matter of a wash, clean wheels, dry, dress tyres...snowfoam prior if you have access to it.

If you want something that is extremely easy to use; look into CarPro HydrO2. Dilutes to needs, but the first time using it, use it at 1 product to 3 water. Then after every wash if you want to top it up, use it at 1:15. While the car is wet, spray on, power wash off, then dry the car - bingo! the SiO2 in the product gives a really nice pop to the paintwork but also nice protection!

Ah I thought I could just spray on tar and iron remover and be done with it. Wasn't planning on claying the car or stripping it back or anything, not yet anyway! So it would be best to wait until it's 6 months before removing tar/iron, I'd be afraid to clay it though as I hear it's only if really necessary?

macslash · 23-01-2018 08:57PM

Lads from the Motors forum sent me over here regarding what to do with damp build up in car and avoiding smell.

My post there....
Noticed flooding in the back of my golf yesterday. Nothing spilt and no apparent leaks. Brought it to main VW dealer today and they hadn't seen anything like it. Earliest they can take me is 2 weeks tomorrow however. Said they would have to strip the car to source problem. Brought it to another garage who have done work for me and he hadn't seen anything like it either. Rang another main VW dealer and they hadn't seen anything like it either.

Picture doesn't do it justice. I scooped a load of water out of it last night and this evening but it just comes back. Not a huge problem at the moment but I'm just worried about mould and a smell, and basically ruining the inside of the car.

Any help appreciated. Thanks

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