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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Summer....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,366 ✭✭✭mikeecho


    Curran wrote: »
    Summer....
    415854.jpg

    You can take my sunshine, but you'll never take my 4 stage shine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,392 ✭✭✭vintagevrs


    So I now have paint that's worth looking after having got the car resprayed recently. Looking on the DS website here for some stuff.

    I need some new polish pads, I think white and black should be what I need but unsure what polish to order.

    Also what should I do after polish, I hear fusso mentioned on here or should I put CQuartz on it. Never used a sealant before so unsure. Thanks for any guidance on this.

    Little picture from yesterday :)

    IMG_20170501_171518_119.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    You'll need to let the paint "gas-out" for about a month before applying anything to it.

    I'd be going with the scratch-resistance of Gtechniq Crystal Serum topped with Gtechniq EXO which will make the surface super slick and make it a hell of a lot easier to wash.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    You'll need to let the paint "gas-out" for about a month before applying anything to it.

    I'd be going with the scratch-resistance of Gtechniq Crystal Serum topped with Gtechniq EXO which will make the surface super slick and make it a hell of a lot easier to wash.

    Thats just because you are a gtechniq fanboi :D

    Did you ask would he be able to use this?
    Has he got a shed/garage to keep it locked up while curing?

    If not,
    Then a simple alternative ( while not as good ) would be Carpro CQUK
    I have used it, Brilliant for the first 10/12 months but seems to die fast after that.
    But
    It does a fantastic job on protecting from swirls. Ity also repels dirt incredibly good.
    After 12 months you could do a fresh coating.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    vectra wrote: »
    Thats just because you are a gtechniq fanboi :D

    Did you ask would he be able to use this?
    Has he got a shed/garage to keep it locked up while curing?

    If not,
    Then a simple alternative ( while not as good ) would be Carpro CQUK
    I have used it, Brilliant for the first 10/12 months but seems to die fast after that.
    But
    It does a fantastic job on protecting from swirls. Ity also repels dirt incredibly good.
    After 12 months you could do a fresh coating.

    Ah jaysus :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Ah jaysus :rolleyes:

    ??
    :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,195 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Curran wrote: »
    Let us know when in stock

    CarPro available now.
    Sorry for delay...logistics from Korea! ;)
    Hi Curran,
    Any stock yet?
    Cheers,
    Mick


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    vectra wrote: »
    ??
    :confused:

    LOL :D Only pulling your leg!

    I don't have any experience with CQUARTZ hence why I only mentioned Gtechniq.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Hi Curran,
    Any stock yet?
    Cheers,
    Mick

    Yeah, CarPro is all back in stock


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    Also what should I do after polish, I hear fusso mentioned on here or should I put CQuartz on it. Never used a sealant before so unsure. Thanks for any guidance on this

    Firstly, colour of pads mean nothing without make and model as colours vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and sometimes from type to type within a manufacturer'specifications range.

    Speak to the painter about when it is possible to layer something on the paintwork. It may not need the 30 days out gassing. It will be fine to polish straight away so long as the polish is fully removed from the surface when done.

    Fusso and Cquartz / Gtechiq are vastly different products and require a vastly different approach in terms of preparation, application and curing. Fusso is more like a traditional wax/sealant; get application wrong or realise the paintwork wasn't perfect, removal is rerelatively easy, by comparison the others would need machining polishing to remove so you could retry application or to get down to the paintwork you need to fix before reapplying.
    Cquartz is available in CQUK that she suited to our climate for application and curing, however it still needs strict following of conditions to ensure maximum performance. Cquartz Classic would be closer to Gtechiq and others and slightly more stable conditions for applications; temperature & humidity.

    It's not a decision to be made lightly. The pros of a nano/ceramic coating areattractive but the cons need to be assessed also. Some assume it's a simple case of lashing it on....it's not!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    The cons of CQUARTZ/Gtechniq are all in the preparation, application conditions and removal.

    I know you have a sizeable garage in which to store the car but if you are in any way put off, go with the likes of Fusso or Colinite 845 until such a time as you are more confident. You could even practice on a scrap panel but the products are quite expensive and have to be used within a certain time frame after opening so this may not be applicable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    LOL :D Only acting the knob!

    I don't have any experience with CQUARTZ hence why I only mentioned Gtechniq.

    Fixed your post there :D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    LIGHTNING wrote: »
    Anybody got a recommendation other that elbow grease on how to tackle moss that is on bits of external trim? Was mucking about with my classic and there is a nice film of moss on the seal on the sunroof.

    You'll have to use a bit of effort, but not scrubbing. A good Citrus Pre Wash sprayed on, let dwell and power wash off. Then repeat with a detailing brush.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,392 ✭✭✭vintagevrs


    LIGHTNING wrote: »
    Anybody got a recommendation other that elbow grease on how to tackle moss that is on bits of external trim? Was mucking about with my classic and there is a nice film of moss on the seal on the sunroof.

    Some weed killer do the trick:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    Some weed killer do the trick:)

    Not being smart or anything but how would the rubber seal react to that? Given that over the years rubber seals break down and become porous.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,392 ✭✭✭vintagevrs


    No idea, depending on what chemical/killer I would say there's a good chance of damage or staining so wouldn't.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    The IronX and TarX has made **** of my black plastics and left it stained white, any chance of this coming off with a strong wash or is it a Gtechniq trim restorer or stain job??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Very surprised to hear that. ...have you pictures? And both products caused the staining?
    A wash won't remove staining.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    I got that with the tar remover on the black trim around mirror to door. It wouldn't scrub out or with anything. The quartz helped but still a bit of white.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    Curran wrote: »
    Very surprised to hear that. ...have you pictures? And both products caused the staining?
    A wash won't remove staining.

    Sorry mistake, it wasnt TarX it was ValetPro Citrus Tar remover and IronX.

    Its hard to tell if both did it or only one to be honest as I only noticed it afterwards.

    Ill take a picture in a bit when it stops raining


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,014 ✭✭✭high horse


    Sorry mistake, it wasnt TarX it was ValetPro Citrus Tar remover and IronX.

    Its hard to tell if both did it or only one to be honest as I only noticed it afterwards.

    Ill take a picture in a bit when it stops raining

    I did the same thing with my wife's '08 civic (same as yours if I remember correctly?) with tardis.
    It faded all the black plastic trim to grey. It was faded in a uniform way and it actually looked grand so I left it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    high horse wrote: »
    I did the same thing with my wife's '08 civic (same as yours if I remember correctly?) with tardis.
    It faded all the black plastic trim to grey. It was faded in a uniform way and it actually looked grand so I left it

    Same as mine yeah, but this isnt uniform, its in waves and dips :pac:

    I tried to take a pic yesterday but its hard to get it to come out when its raining


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    IronX would not have stained your trim - have no experience ValetPro Citrus Tar Remover so cant comment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭M S E


    Hi all,

    Just wondering if ye can help me with a small query- recently got new alloys. Was washing them and saw very fine scratches on a spoke-may not have rinsed the cloth properly or something and was scratched by very small particles. When I run my finger along the scratch it is not smooth. I dont want to powdercoat them already because they are new. Is there anything that can be done to them without powdercoating them. Thank you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    What are you using to clean them?

    At a guess, it sounds like youve inflicted some light damage that cant be easily fixed - if you knew someone with a spot polisher, it might work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭M S E


    Curran wrote: »
    What are you using to clean them?

    At a guess, it sounds like youve inflicted some light damage that cant be easily fixed - if you knew someone with a spot polisher, it might work

    I just use wax free car shampoo at the moment because I am only starting to learn about maintenance/detailing. I have a feeling that maybe there were tiny particles on the cloth and that did the damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    You are using cloths to clean the wheels? What type? Have they a deep plush pile?

    At a guess youve gotten some tar or similar in the cloth, and scrubbed it into the surface


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭M S E


    Not using anything like that at all- I have a good bit to learn about things like that-what kind of cloths would you recommend?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Take a picture of the cloths you are using - to be honest, wouldnt use a cloth, a soft brush, with nothing on it that could potentially cause damage; avoid stiff bristles, exposed metal structure, etc


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