Detailing chat

Any BH Korrosol winging its way to you soon?

My bad, was only using the search bar which I had set to search Interiors for some reason - hence me not seeing it!

HATE them!!!
Awwhh but they look so lovely! KO'd! So what!!! GRRRR!!

I would hire out a rug doctor and valet the carpets and seats, it would be better if you can remove them to give them a better workout. Did the heater ever have a leak?

So, the smell from the engine bay is getting into the cabin. That doesn't sound good or safe. The way I would approach this would be by steam cleaning the engine bay and checking for any visible oil leaks etc.
There are companies that will do this for you relatively cheaply, so you won't have to hire any equipment.

Curran wrote: »

If the car has a stale smell and the air bring circulated through the car is off normal, you could try Bilt Hamber Citrus Air Bomb. It's a canister that releases a vapour while you set your car to fully circulate the air flow and it neutralises any odours.

Curran - what's a good air freshener? Are there any that have a nice subtle smell that endures consistently rather than one, like the old Christmas Tree ones, that blast you immediately and then fade to nothing?

Personally I would much prefer the likes of the Bilt Hamber product as it kills the bacteria but doesn't leave behind too strong a smell.

Has Detailing Shed moved to its new premises yet?

Another few trips getting lost on a Saturday morning so! Lol

Your plan isnt too bad, may I suggest...
Wash, Rinse, De-Tar, Rinse, De-iron, Rinse, Clay, Wash, Dry

Then you can assess the paintwork in its true condition. BMW paintwork is hard, and thus will be harder to correct, but easier to get a nice finish on it. Without seeing the paintwork, its impossible to tell how good or bad it is and what you will need to correct it. That said, your best option is to cover all bases; I'd suggest you get a Heavy, Medium and Fine cutting ability pad, along with CarPro Fixer and Reflect - the Fixer is for correction, the Reflect just for finishing. Start with the Medium pad and Fixer, do a small section and assess results....if it needs more work, test another section with the Heavy pad and assess. Bear in mind that certain panels are usually worse than others, the near side will take more abuse usually due to being the ditch side, so its usually a good place to assess what the pad and polish combo will do. You may have to do two attempts at the panel to remove defects and then when all is done, use the Finishing pad and Reflect to get that deep gloss and shine.

Car will then need to be washed, to remove the lubricating oils in the polish, and will need more than just shampoo. Ideally a wipedown product like IPA or CarPro Eraser, to ensure the paintwork is fully cleansed before applying your protection. An All Purpose Cleaner will be better than nothing when washing, but wont remove all the residue and will limit bonding of any sealant or wax applied afterwards.
Sealants and waxes are different - you can do both, but sealant first, then wax. Most would only use one after doing a bit of research into what best suits their needs, based on durability, colour of car, its appearance, beading, etc, and of course price.

Curran wrote: »

Your plan isnt too bad, may I suggest...
Wash, Rinse, De-Tar, Rinse, De-iron, Rinse, Clay, Wash, Dry

Then you can assess the paintwork in its true condition. BMW paintwork is hard, and thus will be harder to correct, but easier to get a nice finish on it. Without seeing the paintwork, its impossible to tell how good or bad it is and what you will need to correct it. That said, your best option is to cover all bases; I'd suggest you get a Heavy, Medium and Fine cutting ability pad, along with CarPro Fixer and Reflect - the Fixer is for correction, the Reflect just for finishing. Start with the Medium pad and Fixer, do a small section and assess results....if it needs more work, test another section with the Heavy pad and assess. Bear in mind that certain panels are usually worse than others, the near side will take more abuse usually due to being the ditch side, so its usually a good place to assess what the pad and polish combo will do. You may have to do two attempts at the panel to remove defects and then when all is done, use the Finishing pad and Reflect to get that deep gloss and shine.

Car will then need to be washed, to remove the lubricating oils in the polish, and will need more than just shampoo. Ideally a wipedown product like IPA or CarPro Eraser, to ensure the paintwork is fully cleansed before applying your protection. An All Purpose Cleaner will be better than nothing when washing, but wont remove all the residue and will limit bonding of any sealant or wax applied afterwards.
Sealants and waxes are different - you can do both, but sealant first, then wax. Most would only use one after doing a bit of research into what best suits their needs, based on durability, colour of car, its appearance, beading, etc, and of course price.

Thanks for your kind advice and will be putting in a lot of man hours to do this . have u got a link to these products by chance thanks for helping

alanhiggyno1 wrote: »

Thanks for your kind advice and will be putting in a lot of man hours to do this . have u got a link to these products by chance thanks for helping

Go to Detailing Shed - great guys and great service. Highly recommended.

alanhiggyno1 wrote: »

Cheers thanks.do u think I should stock up on these pads for the das 6 pro or do they last for awhile

Curran should be around later and can reply.

Some of the other lads would be better placed to answer that as they are well used to using a DA machine.

Don't worry - there are plenty of good people who can advise on this thread. I'm at this a couple of years and I still consider myself a complete novice!!:)

Curran wrote: »

Yeah it can be a bit tough to judge on a dark - but generally, if you feel the areas just behind the wheels you can get a good idea of how much tar will be on the car.
If its light, I'll usually to up to the window line, if heavy, the whole car. Do up to the window line, and start claying from top down, and you'll kwow soon enough if you need to do the bits you havent! Ive done cars where it didnt seem too bad but the tar has been up high on the back windows.



Pads, if cared for, will last you a while; be sure to take care around sharp edges of badges or panel gaps, etc, anything that will start to fray the edges, onces that starts its a downward spiral. Another thing to note is to keep pads clean; they can become clogged with polish and reduce in effectiveness. Problem is, if you wash them out, when they are wet they arent as effective either...so many will buy two of each. Wash one, spin it on the machine to aid drying, leave it to one side and use the dry one, repeating the process each time a pad needs cleaning.

OK thanks going trying this in the next 2 weeks.my bmw is silver too will that make a difference in what I need to do to the paint