The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

TeaBagMania · 25-02-2017 08:14PM

stewygriffin;102737680Akra headers off the S1000rr and full AR inconel race system ready to go on.Should sound nice and raspy.:D

What was wrong with the Akra?
Is that little can that reads "AustinRacing" supposed to be the muffler? lol

Hotblack Desiato · 25-02-2017 09:20PM

Today I fixed the rec/reg on my bike. The Triumph part is £250 and isn't all that reliable or efficient, same as the usual Jap bike parts. I got a MOSFET aftermarket part from electrexworld.co.uk for 130 euro delivered, more efficient and reliable and runs cooler.

Comes with a 3mm thick alu mounting plate - acts as a heatsink but it also makes installing the R/R much easier. The original part was a pig to get out, on the inside of the beam frame with the thickest part of the wiring loom running right in front of the bolts - couldn't see anything so had to work by feel (oo-er) and even when it was unbolted there wasn't much room to wriggle it out - the top mount of the rear shock was in the way too.

The mounting plate was easy to get in place and it meant that the threaded holes for the R/R itself (which was no thicker than the original, including the mounting plate) were brought forward just enough to be visible which made the job a lot easier. Once the mechanicals were done it was time for the electrics.

Look how much bigger the aftermarket connector lugs are than the OEM. The OEM connector is supposed to be able to carry 30A, it's clearly not able for that but the stock R/R can't produce that in practice anyway.

Crimped and soldered the new connector onto the alternator wires, put the tank back on and fired it up. Straight away on fast idle (cold engine, and headlights on - can't turn them off) I was getting 14.2V across the battery, the OEM setup never got close to that. Revved it through the rev range and the voltage was steady at 14.3V. Happy days.

TeaBagMania · 25-02-2017 10:02PM

its nice when you can find quality upgrade parts in the aftermarket, good job

stewygriffin · 26-02-2017 10:31AM

TeaBagMania wrote: »

What was wrong with the Akra?
Is that little can that reads "AustinRacing" supposed to be the muffler? lol

Ah I fancied a change so off with the Akras.
Yep thats the GP2R end can.:D

Went over to Austin Racing in the UK to see my system being hand made,nice place and Richard was very wellcoming to me,and gave me a tour of their factory.:)

Wonda-Boy · 26-02-2017 11:29AM

Zaiden Fit Schoolmarm wrote: »

Are the seals definitely in correctly, i.e if they are shamfered on one edge is it in the right direction?

it sounds like air is getting in, did you replace any of the caliper or lever bolts with new ones? If so try the old ones

I have no experience of bleeding abs brakes so have no idea about that aspect

Yeah seals in correctly, no fluid leaking out of calipers and all torqued to recommend spec.

stewygriffin · 26-02-2017 11:33AM

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Yeah seals in correctly, no fluid leaking out of calipers and all torqued to recommend spec.

An air pocket in the ABS module or front master cylinder perhaps?

Wonda-Boy · 26-02-2017 07:11PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

An air pocket in the ABS module or front master cylinder perhaps?

Cracked more banjos over the last 2 days then George Formby ffs, could very well be the ABS unit. If so, is it a main dealer job?

Also coming up from the forks the lines meet behind the headlight so to speak and there is a T junction with 2 nipples on it. More then likely where the back line meets the front 2 lines, would it be beneficial to bleed them nipples or leave well enough alone.

Really at the point where I can do no more so might have to drop it into somehwere and they more then likely do exactly what I have done and charge me €200 for 2 hours labour.

frozenfrozen · 26-02-2017 07:30PM

wonda are you still seeing any air bubbles? was just having a google to see what the story is and found this

Re: Spongy front brakes 1250 ABS
So I had the spongy brake lever since the first day I bought the bike a year ago. It was never a problem until the other day when I had to emergency brake and it just was not enough to stop me in time and I had to swerve in the shoulder to miss the truck in front of me. I started to research the problem. Since I am a member here, I thought I would share how I fixed my spongy brake lever.

I have always been able to squeeze my lever all the way down to my grip even when I adjusted the lever all the way out. After I pump it a few times, it will feel harder and I can no longer squeeze it back to the grip. I always thought it was a MC issue. I decided to do some MAJOR bleeding. I bought 2 cans of DOT4 brake fluid and started going at it. I started bleeding at the furthest bleed point from the MC, the front right side caliper. I got a lot of bubbles and they never stopped. I put in an entire bottle of DOT4 and I was now getting clear fluid, but the bubbles did not stop. I had some concerns that the air was coming in thro the threads of the bleeder... So I added teflon tape to the threads, and the bubbles stopped!

As this point I started to recycle my fluid because I only had about 3/4 left of my second DOT4 bottle. I planned on bleeding from the other 4 bleeders, so I took them all out one at a time and cleaned them using brake cleaner and adding teflon tape to the threads. I bled the bleeders one at a time (with no bubbles from the threads) from the closest one to the MC and ending up at the furthest. Then I stayed there and just pulled a **** ton of fluid through the entire system for about 10 bottles refills.

I used a vacuum bleeder and after the teflon tape, I had to use a lot of vacuum to get fluid to move (like -25 PSI). After I closed the bleeder, the lever did not feel any different. I was disappointed so I went to bed. When I woke up the next morning (this morning), the lever was firm and I could not squeeze it to the grip at all! So I took the bike to work and she stops MUCH faster.

I hope this helps anyone else with this issue. I bet that the factory just did not get all the air out when they installed the system.

Things I learned:

1. There is a LOT of hoses with the ABS system and I takes a lot of fluid movement to get all the air bubbles out. Just be patient and move a **** ton of fluid thro.
2. After you get all the old fluid out, recycle it so you are not wasting any fluid.
3. Have a friend be in charge of putting fluid in the reservoir. If you drain it all out, you have to start the process all over again and bleed the bleeders one at a time all over again. Its not fun after the third time, TRUST ME!
4. Teflon tape is your friend, but ONLY apply it to the threads.
5. Use a vacuum pump.... squeezing the lever will take FOREVER!

Doesn't say anything about the ABS being cycled with dealer tool

Wonda-Boy · 26-02-2017 09:17PM

I tell you my problem, I am getting a firm lever (now) but it feels like the pistons are not squeezing the disc hard enough to stop the bike the way I would like deffo not in an emergency. I have changed the pads and I have now totaly overhauled the pistons, calipers and seals (literally cracked caliper in half and replaced all seals and its spotless)

The MC never got emptied so the only air that can be in the system is from the lines being taken off the calipers and then hung high to stop the drips it was like this for about 2 weeks while I was ****ed around for parts by a well know Dublin bike shop.

There has to be air still in the system its the only logical thing I can think off, I have used the vaccum pressure pump but got better results manual bleeding.

In relation to the post above why on earth would you use recycled brake fluid, any used fluid would have air in the fluid....that is counter productive tbh.

Cheers for the post mate, will have to look into air trapped in an ABS module.

stewygriffin · 27-02-2017 10:10AM

Took herself out on the R1 yersterday to Skerries for dinner.
Windy day but was nice riding the R1 with the 2 of us on it.:)

stewygriffin · 27-02-2017 10:57AM

@ Wonda Boy..................

On my S1000rr,the problem was a set of dodgey brass washers that came with the HEL lines,they would not seat themselves correctly,so we used a new set of OEM BMW washers.
Problem was solved just like that.
Firm and solid front brake and no more leaking fluid from the ABS pump.
No need for it to be cycled either,normal brake bleed was all it took.

Wonda-Boy · 27-02-2017 02:59PM

Washers were replaced with the new kit along with caliper pin and seals.

27-02-2017 11:19PM

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Washers were replaced with the new kit along with caliper pin and seals.

What exactly was replaced? What was this kit

So we know from what you've said the calliper seals were done, were the lines changed, any new bleed nipples or washers fitted?

As stewy said some parts can be dodgy in these kits, one of the banjo bolts in my kit I fitted last month was dodgy. The bolt looked identical but had a different pitch on it that couldn't even be seen looking at it. This was letting in air so I had to use the old one.

Were any bleed nipples or banjos changed..

My previous experience with a vacuum pump was it was ****e, have you tried using standard jar method?

Wonda-Boy · 28-02-2017 12:37PM

The kit was from All Balls, and its a very good kit.

No new brake lines, only new items internally are the piston seals and the O ring seal for the 2 halves of the piston joining for tight fit seals are fitted correctly (double checked). I installed a new horizontal pin that holds the brake pads in place. Thats it.....nothing drastic replaced.

No new banjo bolts I initially replaced the banjo bolt washers with copper ones that were in the kit but have reverted to the old ones to be sure and no change. No change in bleed nipples just new caps.

I have bled manually for nearly a full bottle of brake fluid and system is still not 100%, I am gonna try a different method with the vaccum pump (take off the hood that completely covers bleed nipple in case its sucking air and just use the thin tube to see if that helps)

TeaBagMania · 28-02-2017 01:39PM

I didn't see where this brake issue started in the thread but if the system was opened upstream of the ABS pump than you'll need to cycle the ABS (the GS911 has a program to do this for the BMW guys) or if its like my dad's old 1150 RT it actually had bleeder nipples on the ABS pump.
If the system was opened downstream of the ABS pump than in theory you shouldn't need to cycle the ABS pump, unless air was pulled up the line into the pump

stewygriffin · 28-02-2017 06:15PM

Well today i went to Danfay Yamaha to get parts for the R1.Gave me a nice little discount.
Also picked up a new pair of leathers today,
No more swampy jock leathers for me.:P:pac::D

stewygriffin · 06-03-2017 02:33PM

AR inconel full system just fitted onto the S1000rr and fook me its loud and spitting flame like a dragon.

Now to get her down to Gary @ Mototuning for mapping on the dyno

Pic and vido to be posted later of the AR system.:)

stewygriffin · 06-03-2017 03:06PM

Austin Racing inconel system is very light compared to the Akras,and loud too.:)

New exhaust gaskets and header bolts torqued down to 14nm and system let run for 20 minutes to check for any leaks.None thankfully.

Akra system is now for sale,450 euro.

stewygriffin · 06-03-2017 03:23PM

Video

stewygriffin · 06-03-2017 03:38PM

Can someone put that video up on youtube for me or some other social media site please.

Having trouble with that photoucket site.

frozenfrozen · 06-03-2017 04:24PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVWTUnAPHo0

stewygriffin · 06-03-2017 05:41PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVWTUnAPHo0

Legend,thanks.:D

frozenfrozen · 06-03-2017 07:39PM

sounds very good

Mr Sheen! · 07-03-2017 09:23AM

Sounds Class and the flames look the business !! Practical too as it will act as a tyre warmer !!

stewygriffin · 07-03-2017 02:33PM

Mr Sheen! wrote: »

Sounds Class and the flames look the business !! Practical too as it will act as a tyre warmer !!

Took it for a quick spin at lunch there,pop bang pop bang on every upshift and downshift.And its bloody loud when shes higher up on the revs.

Some looks I got from 2 car drivers when they caught up to me at the lights.:pac:

Just waiting for a call back from the wizzard that is Gary.:)

Wonda-Boy · 07-03-2017 03:54PM

Cost you about 20 euro in juice just for the video.....

stewygriffin · 07-03-2017 04:40PM

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Cost you about 20 euro in juice just for the video.....

20 euro and 1 cent.:P

Actually that was the car earlier this morning.
And the petrol station fella was adamant he was getting that 1 cent off me too.:eek::pac:

CaptainR · 07-03-2017 08:20PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

20 euro and 1 cent.:P

Actually that was the car earlier this morning.
And the petrol station fella was adamant he was getting that 1 cent off me too.:eek::pac:

I thought they rounded down now they've got rid of the 1 & 2 cent coins? Dad got asked for two cent there a while ago off a petrol station worker and she wasn't taking no for an answer.

TeaBagMania · 08-03-2017 12:32AM

CaptainR wrote: »

I thought they rounded down now they've got rid of the 1 & 2 cent coins?

Wait, what? when did they get rid of the one and two centers?

stewygriffin · 08-03-2017 05:35PM

Shes booked in with Gary for Saturday to be mapped on the dyno.
Managed to find some time at lunch to get the Evotech Performance rad and oil cooler guards on,very well made bit of kit and perfect fit too,no cable ties needed.

Also got the RG Racing carbon tail sliders fitted,finally.Just got to let them set overnight.:)

The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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