The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

thegreatiam · 11-12-2016 06:51PM

Bought a screen for my cbf600 and was going to fit it today.
Took the lamp out to get at the mounting bolts only to discover they had some weld or solder holding them tight.
Couldn't budge them. Big let down.

Anyone have a solution for this? Can it be melted? Don't have a blow torch but can probably get a soldering iron.

Hoping they don't need to be drilled out

frozenfrozen · 11-12-2016 07:14PM

thegreatiam wrote: »

Bought a screen for my cbf600 and was going to fit it today.
Took the lamp out to get at the mounting bolts only to discover they had some weld or solder holding them tight.
Couldn't budge them. Big let down.

Anyone have a solution for this? Can it be melted? Don't have a blow torch but can probably get a soldering iron.

Hoping they don't need to be drilled out

try some kind of penetrating fluid. I wouldn't get a torch out you could ruin the plastics. drilling would be straight forward enough if you can't get them out otherwise though just a pain

listermint · 11-12-2016 09:49PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

try some kind of penetrating fluid. I wouldn't get a torch out you could ruin the plastics. drilling would be straight forward enough if you can't get them out otherwise though just a pain

Sounds like they are welded to the mount penetrative fluid won't help that none.

Op you'd have to grind off the weld but in doing that you may reweld the head with the heat.

There is no easy way it's grind of drill them out

stewygriffin · 11-12-2016 10:20PM

Hacksaw blade and either a vice grips or a tap of a hammer.

Another option is a small osilating multi tool.
I used one before to get in at a rusted bolt on my old R1.Did the job perfectly with no sparks either.

thegreatiam · 12-12-2016 11:41AM

gonna try with the dremmel tonight, it's definitely soldered or welded in, not glued. So I don't think heat or wd40 is gonna help.

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 12:55PM

Arrived in the post this morning.

frozenfrozen · 12-12-2016 01:13PM

me too. now to order a seals kit for the calipers and all related bits so I can give it a good clean when replacing

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 01:28PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

me too. now to order a seals kit for the calipers and all related bits so I can give it a good clean when replacing

Thats a good idea about the seals,where do you buy them from.....shop or online?:)

frozenfrozen · 12-12-2016 01:48PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

Thats a good idea about the seals,where do you buy them from.....shop or online?:)

not sure still looking at the moment. I'm seeing oem price is very high for the bits

the difference is like 50 euro per caliper lol so I think I'm going with non oem from maybe someone like http://www.powerhouse.uk/content/motorcycle-brakes/motorcycle-brake-caliper-services.php who do kits.

there must be a better way of getting oem parts because the prices I'm seeing online are so high like 6 euro per little rubber piece

I'm going to be nearly exactly following this video, and she has another one doing hel lines so I won't have to figure out anything myself :cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0k8Tcm2F-8

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 02:05PM

Did she say to use brake fluid for lubing up the pistons when reinstalling them (13.26 in video)??

frozenfrozen · 12-12-2016 02:08PM

she does, and on the rubber seals too. is that bad. I do the same type of thing when putting a new oil filter on, bit of engine oil on the rubber seal

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 02:23PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

she does, and on the rubber seals too. is that bad. I do the same type of thing when putting a new oil filter on, bit of engine oil on the rubber seal

I dont know as this is all new to me.:pac:
Just wanted to make sure I was listening correctly to her.

frozenfrozen · 12-12-2016 02:38PM

ah ok

I have to buy the vacuum pump for bleeding the brakes too

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 02:41PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

ah ok I have to buy the vacuum pump for bleeding the brakes too

After watching that video and the hel brake line video of hers aswell,Im tempted to do this on the S1000rr myself.

Mr Sheen! · 12-12-2016 02:47PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

Did she say to use brake fluid for lubing up the pistons when reinstalling them (13.26 in video)??

I have used the powerhouse seal kits before and they where fine.

I would use red rubber grease on the seals and put a light coating on the piston when reinstalling.

frozenfrozen · 12-12-2016 02:52PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

After watching that video and the hel brake line video of hers aswell,Im tempted to do this on the S1000rr myself.

only thing is, and I'm not sure about this being on the s1000rr it might not be because you'd want to be able to change fluid every track day quickly, but abs bikes sometimes need to have the abs pump put into bleed mode to get air out of the system. so you'd need to plug it into a diagnostics tool

worth looking that up for the s1000rr to to be sure you won't get caught out

I am going to do my sv myself alright but I need to buy even more stuff now that I'm thinking of it and she has a video for the rear caliper too and it looks like a complete pain because the pins back there are mild steel so completely rusted into place on one of them in her case.. I might get lucky..

Mr Sheen! wrote: »

I have used the powerhouse seal kits before and they where fine.

I would use red rubber grease on the seals and put a light coating on the piston when reinstalling.

nice one so, they include a little pack of red rubber grease with the kits on ebay so I'll do that I think

just for a list of the stuff I think I need need, new socket wrench, rear paddock stand and headstock stand, copper slip, seals kit front and rear, brake fluid, vacuum pump, replacement pins for rear caliper if they are like the ones in her video, brake cleaner/ atf to clean.. new spark plugs, potentially ht lead or coils, and to do valve clearance so shims and feelers.. and carb balancer vacuum thing for doing throttle bodies..

santa are you listening..

stewygriffin · 12-12-2016 03:48PM

Never thought about that with regards the ABS,thanks for the tip there.

17-12-2016 01:18AM

I just ordered a powerhouse seal kit so il let yous know, the seals are crazy prices everywhere. I looked for 4 days online and you might save 20 quid over a powerhouse but they give you basically everything you need to make the thing like new.

I won't be putting any grease near them just brake fluid no need.

No joke with brakes if you don't know what you are doing don't touch them.

CJhaughey · 17-12-2016 07:48AM

Zaiden Fit Schoolmarm wrote: »

I just ordered a powerhouse seal kit so il let yous know, the seals are crazy prices everywhere. I looked for 4 days online and you might save 20 quid over a powerhouse but they give you basically everything you need to make the thing like new.

I won't be putting any grease near them just brake fluid no need.

No joke with brakes if you don't know what you are doing don't touch them.

Red rubber grease is actually designed for brake systems.
Its vegetable based so doesn't react with brake fluid like mineral oil grease.
Using it in the seal grooves slows corrosion as brake fluid is actually hygroscopic and absorbs water which leads to corrosion over time.

stewygriffin · 17-12-2016 02:53PM

CJhaughey wrote: »

Red rubber grease is actually designed for brake systems.
Its vegetable based so doesn't react with brake fluid like mineral oil grease.
Using it in the seal grooves slows corrosion as brake fluid is actually hygroscopic and absorbs water which leads to corrosion over time.

Where can one get it in Dublin?:)

Mr Sheen! · 17-12-2016 04:24PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

Where can one get it in Dublin?:)

It can be hard enough to come by. A good auto parts shop should have it.

A tub for 15 quid should last you a lifetime as you only use a tiny smear of it.

Wonda-Boy · 17-12-2016 06:31PM

AFAIK Copper Grease should only be used where there is "Heat Generation" putting it on the pins for the top of the caliper would not be ideal. There are other lubes that would suit it better.....

stewygriffin · 17-12-2016 10:33PM

Good website and info about RRG and its uses and benefits;

http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html

Wonda-Boy · 18-12-2016 12:21AM

Jaysus a bit messy but get the point of the article......I invested in two smaller tubs rather then one big one as dirt and debris can get into the large one over the duration of its life.

Thinkingaboutit · 18-12-2016 12:43AM

Checked the oil level on one of my bikes (KZ750). I used to think it leaked oil, but it was many months ago, and remains overfilled. Battery got a charge, and afterwards disconnected the terminals, and will leave it so, unless I'm riding it. Only the Honda Magna 750 (or GTA380, battery not strong enough to power the dash led yet it starts) seems able to go months without starting yet starts. I won't disconnect that, as it's just a good deal of bother to disconnect, and never runs down anyhow.

stewygriffin · 19-12-2016 07:05PM

got red rubber grease in the motor factors in Coolmine Industrial Estate at lunchtime.

TeaBagMania · 19-12-2016 07:19PM

wow that stuff is pricey

CJhaughey · 19-12-2016 07:19PM

Wahey! You now have enough to last years, of fork seals, brake pistons and Master cylinder rebuilds.
I gave away about 200gm to a mate as I figured I would never use it all up in my lifetime but its very handy stuff.

CJhaughey · 19-12-2016 07:19PM

TeaBagMania wrote: »

wow that stuff is pricey

Also hard to get in the USA I believe..

TeaBagMania · 19-12-2016 07:23PM

CJhaughey wrote: »

TeaBagMania wrote: »

wow that stuff is pricey

Also hard to get in the USA I believe..

yeah I haven't needed it but ill keep an eye out

The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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