Grant Euroflame 70/90 HE utility

Wearb · 29-11-2016 08:51PM #1

Have just gotten a call to attend a breakdown on the above. It hasn't been serviced in 3 years. 1/3rd tank of oil. Burned about 1800 liters kero since last service. RDB 2.2 burner.

Reset light on burner illuminated. Nothing happens when pressed, not even a hum.

I am a little stuck for time tomorrow so I need to hit the ground running on this. What do I check for?
Control Box? Motor? PC?..maybe. Cap?...maybe. Seized pump?..maybe.
Except for control box and motor, I would expect some sort of sound.
Any thoughts?

ServiceGuy · 29-11-2016 09:55PM

Did they say if the reset light goes out when pressed. I find sometimes the customer doesn't hear the faint hum.

TPM · 29-11-2016 09:59PM

if nothing at all check capacitor, then control box, then motor,
some rdb control boxes have been known to give trouble always good to have a spare with you

Wearb · 29-11-2016 10:03PM

ServiceGuy wrote: »

Did they say if the reset light goes out when pressed. I find sometimes the customer doesn't hear the faint hum.

Unlikely that there is a hum. I really went through that with customer.

Wearb · 29-11-2016 10:05PM

TPM wrote: »

if nothing at all check capacitor, then control box, then motor,
some rdb control boxes have been known to give trouble always good to have a spare with you

Those are my lines of thought. Was wondering if I was missing something?

agusta · 29-11-2016 10:57PM

If reset light is illuminated and when pressed the capacitor is not buzzing.
Firstly I would be checking for 230 volts across L and N under load .Also checking for 230 volts across L and E under load. i.e when reset button is pressed.
Or you could connect up an electrical item drawing 2 or 3 amps and see if the power supply is ok.

Wearb · 29-11-2016 11:11PM

agusta wrote: »

If reset light is illuminated and when pressed the capacitor is not buzzing.
Firstly I would be checking for 230 volts across L and N under load .Also checking for 230 volts across L and E under load. i.e when reset button is pressed.
Or you could connect up an electrical item drawing 2 or 3 amps and see if the power supply is ok.

Thanks
I will keep that in mind. I have used my halogen standard light for such purposes in the past.

Can't see why I need to press the reset button for the test though?

agusta · 29-11-2016 11:28PM

If the lockout light is on its not drawing any power.it would be similar to connecting up the halogen light but not turning on the switch on the light.i may not be of help but for me getting 220 under load is the starting point.

Wearb · 29-11-2016 11:34PM

Thanks Agusta

TPM · 29-11-2016 11:45PM

Wearb wrote: »

Those are my lines of thought. Was wondering if I was missing something?

thinking aloud
photocell tends to leave motor running rather than doing nothing
solenoid/coil would run but not fire
oil problem same
pump seized humming, key gone would run
could be loose wire in control box

and as agusta said check actual voltage(tbh i wouldnt have thought of that till I eliminated other stuff)

Wearb · 29-11-2016 11:56PM

TPM wrote: »

thinking aloud
photocell tends to leave motor running rather than doing nothing
solenoid/coil would run but not fire
oil problem same
pump seized humming, key gone would run
could be loose wire in control box

and as agusta said check actual voltage(tbh i wouldnt have thought of that till I eliminated other stuff)

Yes I was thinking along the same lines. That was why I had written "maybe" on those items.

I wrote here some while ago about getting a correct no load voltage and using a lamp to load it. Wires had been chewed by vermin. They were touching enough for multimeter to read correct voltage. But failed under load.

Thanks for giving it some thought.

jimf · 30-11-2016 12:11AM

at a guess id say you will probably hear the hum when you get there

had 1 like this last year no hum red light on control box sorted it

but sometimes they don't hum unless you put on a bit of music

Wearb · 30-11-2016 12:15AM

jimf wrote: »

red light on control box sorted it

So I need a new red light ???

jimf · 30-11-2016 12:20AM

Wearb wrote: »

So I need a new red light ???

only available to agusta and myself in limerick

red lights are hard to come by

Wearb · 30-11-2016 12:23AM

jimf wrote: »

only available to agusta and myself in limerick

red lights are hard to come by

Yeah lots of them down that way alright

jimf · 30-11-2016 12:28AM

bandit country

TPM · 30-11-2016 12:30AM

Wearb wrote: »

I wrote here some while ago about getting a correct no load voltage and using a lamp to load it. Wires had been chewed by vermin. They were touching enough for multimeter to read correct voltage. But failed under load.

thats where the extension lead comes in handy

agusta · 30-11-2016 12:32AM

If power under load is confirmed ok
pull motor wires lug from control box
test for 230 across the lugs where the blue and the black wire go,
if you dont get 230,new control box

you can also test motor with different power source if required, blue wire is live,black wire is neutral,if capacitor,motor turning freely,motor ok,motor will start

Wearb · 30-11-2016 12:45AM

agusta wrote: »

If power under load is confirmed ok
pull motor wires lug from control box
test for 230 across the lugs where the blue and the black wire go,
if you dont get 230,new control box

you can also test motor with different power source if required, blue wire is live,black wire is neutral,if capacitor,motor turning freely,motor ok,motor will start

Probably can use a jumper to bypass CB to see if motor turns. Often did it on the mectron.

Wearb · 30-11-2016 12:47AM

jimf wrote: »

bandit country

Ok I suppose I have to drag it out of you. What was wrong with your humming burner (above). Capacitor?

jimf · 30-11-2016 12:52AM

it wasn't humming and it was the control box

Wearb · 30-11-2016 12:55AM

jimf wrote: »

it wasn't humming and it was the control box

Ok. Get it now.
I must send down a box of commas with the sloe gin.

jimf · 30-11-2016 12:56AM

thanks very much they will never arrive

agusta · 30-11-2016 01:08AM

Wearb wrote: »

Probably can use a jumper to bypass CB to see if motor turns. Often did it on the mectron.

Yes ,if motor turns at least you know what side of the burner the fault is on

Wearb · 30-11-2016 01:10AM

jimf wrote: »

thanks very much they will never arrive

You just don't want to make Tom jealous by admitting you got it last year. Cheers.

Ah F it. I can't get used to calling him Tom. SCUDO.

TPM · 30-11-2016 01:12AM

if i have 230v, cap checked ok and resistance on the motor I change the controlbox, its nearly as quick as bypassing the control box and generally tends to be the fault, when no humming that is
HHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

agusta · 30-11-2016 01:12AM

Tom doesnt feel right for me either,its scudo again so

Wearb · 30-11-2016 01:35PM

jimf · 30-11-2016 02:05PM

did you put on a bit of guns and roses and what was wrong with it or do we have to drag it out of you

nice cap reading

Wearb · 30-11-2016 02:55PM

jimf wrote: »

did you put on a bit of guns and roses and what was wrong with it or do we have to drag it out of you

nice cap reading

WHAT WAS WRONG WITH IT? Move away from that plume and wipe the specs

))

Strange one. No hum when I turned it on. Not a peep out of it. Went out and brought in a few tools and while setting up the multi meter, away she fires. Left it running a few minutes and turned it on and off a few times without problems.
Anyway tried the cap and as you can see, it was at less than 50%. Pulled the burner to visually check nozzle area and combustion area. All good. PC as clean as a whistle.
New cap in it now. FGA done to cover rear.
Hopefully that's it sorted.

Wearb · 30-11-2016 05:01PM

ServiceGuy wrote: »

Did they say if the reset light goes out when pressed. I find sometimes the customer doesn't hear the faint hum.

Sorry serviceguy. I missed your post.

What does the light going out when pressed indicate ?

Grant Euroflame 70/90 HE utility

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