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Wiring & Switch for an attic space light

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,390 ✭✭✭Asdfgh2020


    won’t be happening…..too many reasons to be up and down into attic/artic ( as it’s so old up there)……have a fairly large one so it’s just so convenient for lobbing stuff up into😀



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,804 ✭✭✭timmyntc


    No it's fine.

    Most confusing part is sharing a live between switches, and that part will be there in your new arrangement regardless, unless you decide to rewire all your lights and switches.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,390 ✭✭✭Asdfgh2020


    One last comment about electrical works in domestic houses and in particular the ‘routing’ of cables……it’s like they (electricians) just pick the shortest route and throw cable over/ around joists and rafters and trusses with no thought that the attic space might one day be converted or floored…?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,804 ✭✭✭timmyntc


    Yes there was never any forward thinking in the past.

    If flooring your attic you'll have to lay timbers across joists anyways, so for some of these you'll have to make cuts to accommodate existing cables. That's the reality of it, it's too much work to redo everything perfect so you inevitably have to compromise your work to facilitate someone elses shoddy job.

    Either that or you spend way more time and money



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    It's been a regulation for a long time that attic cable wiring is tidy



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,262 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Funny wiring in switches, or even fairly simple two or three way wiring in switches can be a real head scratcher to work out. I just try to keep it simple and logical.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    There's 3 methods that have been in general use for domestic work

    The 3-plate ,singles method and looped t+e at switches

    Plenty more methods outside of that esp. in industry and commercial



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,160 ✭✭✭Claw Hammer


    My solution to this is to put the switch into the ceiling beside the trap door with an led lit switch. That way I can see, without opening the trap door, if the light is on or not in the attic. I will only be turning on the light if going into the attic so no point in having a long switch run half way down the wall outside. No point in putting the switch into the attic since it will be dark when the attic is opened and it is no possible to see if the light is on without opening the trap door.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭monseiur


    Another solution I've seen at a friends house at the weekend - he put a small red bulb (the type you see in Sacred Heart type lights) in the corner of the kitchen ceiling. This is wired into the same switch as attic light so both are on/off at the same time. So if he forgets to switch off the light in attic he or someone will spot the tell tale red light on in kitchen. House is a bungalow so it was an easy fit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    If you're accessing the attic a lot a light switch in the landing area with neon is probably simple as any

    The red bulb and mechanical switches is overthinking it



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  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭Trapeze
    Eze


    Many years ago I wired the feed for my pull switch in the attic from the light in a children's bedroom. That way if I forgot to turn off the attic light it would only be on when the bedroom light was on.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    Another over complicated method of wiring an attic light

    Sure ya risking a blackout up there if someone turns off bedroom light



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,804 ✭✭✭timmyntc


    With a modern LED bulb it'll cost you no more than 20eur a year if you left the attic light on that long.

    Not worth putting in such complicated solutions.

    If you really want to save energy, just make sure to double check that there are no lights on in attic before you close the hatch, like a checklist every time you shut it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,262 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Neon switch seems the most elegant solution to me. Put it next to the hatch out of the way. Job done. You won't leave it on by mistake for more than a day.

    Simple.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    Correct

    Sure the other solutions sensor and secondary switch are creating the risk you're trying to mitigate against

    Namely the light being on and going un noticed



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,262 ✭✭✭Shoog


    Also they run the significant risk of going out leaving you stranded in the dark.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    Both have risk of light staying on for sensor or going on and /off for secondary switch

    Also a hazard of light going off

    A sacred heart lamp is just overkill also

    Has to be said for correctness



  • Registered Users Posts: 209 ✭✭Bruthal.


    I'd say if you were around when electrical lights appeared, you'd be saying "are people too lazy to light candles now"



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,296 ✭✭✭tomhammer..


    Ya hear different opinions from inspectors and they're not always right unfortunately unless they're just quoting rules

    Way back my first inspector said anyone putting neutrals in switches should be shot. Next one said loop t+e to switch

    It turned out to be an improved method for domestic lighting

    The 3-plate lighting method and ring final socket circuit shouldn't be used for domestic work as they create unnecessary hazards in domestic



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  • Registered Users Posts: 209 ✭✭Bruthal.


    Yea I prefer the neutrals available at switches. Never liked ring mains at all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,390 ✭✭✭Asdfgh2020


    just one last post on this. I finally completed the job as per the above and ăll worked out. I ended up putting three lights/roses in, connected in series ( not sure if this is the correct term ) as it’s a fairly big space and all worked out perfectly……no more need for the miner’s light or flash lamps etc….now all I need to do is add more insulation, move a couple of water tanks and start flooring……!

    Regarding the absolute thoughtless approach that the previous ‘spark’ put in to the routing of cables in the attic space ie above, over, around, between joists etc what is best way to re-route some of these in advance of adding flooring…….is cutting and re-splicing cables with connectors a major no? Is it best to just cut notches out of the top of the joists to recess the cables into and avoid any cutting and re-connecting…?

    Post edited by Asdfgh2020 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,727 ✭✭✭meercat


    don’t cut the joists(or cables for that matter)

    If you have the height then cross batten them with 2X1. You’ll loose an inch and gain more stability too



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