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Starting Tractors in Cold Weather

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭TinyMuffin


    I work a blow torch on my jcb the last few days. Even tho I put a new high speed starter and battery in it last year. Heat the air intakes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭emaherx


    It's Ireland lads not Siberia, fix the tractors is the best value least stressful solution in the long term.

    Then you can simply come out and turn the key everyday of the year without faffing about with Easy-start, heat guns, blowtorches, jump leads, boosters and battery maintainers etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭TinyMuffin


    ………




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭emaherx


    A good tractor battery doesn't fail because of a little frost. But the frost may show up one that is near end of life.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,819 ✭✭✭amacca


    What would be considered the rolls Royce of tractor batteries out of interest?

    Not necessarily most expensive or best known brand mind....the consensus on the best of there is such a thing



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,304 ✭✭✭FintanMcluskey




  • Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭Jack C


    Had problems with a JD 6210 being hard to start if it was anyway cold weather, like I'm talkin from 5 or 6 degrees down. Messed around for years with changing batteries, new battery, new bigger battery, reconditioned starter, new hi-speed starter (helped a tiny bit), fuel pump and new heater plug.... plus a worn out set of jump leads.

    Anyway about a year ago engine started to miss a bit just after starting and I had new injectors put in . Tractor has started like a dream ever since. I know there can be loads of reasons an engine can be hard started but if injectors aren't giving that proper fine vapour like spray of fuel, surely it contributes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,007 ✭✭✭green daries


    All batteries not running at least 3 hours a day at a good engine speed should be charged every 6 months on a slow charge to prolong the life of them ....that was from a company selling them



  • Registered Users Posts: 893 ✭✭✭leoch


    Even just cleaning the battery terminals and topping with water makes a difference



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Every 6 months, sounds about right? Sure in most cases that will be achieved with a little fertilizer spreading/topping once spring/summer starts.

    Probably some exceptions with machines used exclusively for winter feeding or scraper tractors, but I think that comment was in reply to keeping a machine on charge nightly through cold weather which shouldn't be needed if everything is kept right.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,007 ✭✭✭green daries


    Hi em no I wasn't replying to anyone 😊just popped in my sixpence I would totally agree on of theres a known fault just fix it also I've found geared starters a god send. But for the problems that crop up immediately without warning everyone else is giving excellent advice 👌 👏 and I can't see someone not getting going in the short-term after reading this thread



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,007 ✭✭✭green daries


    Yuasa batteries are my go to ...them also that recommend the charging



  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭farmer2018


    On a separate subject for the tractor experts on here, bought a 35 recently for doing up, I notice there is water leaking a small bit from the side of the engine looks like a little crack, the was some form on chemical metal used to cover it up but it was falling off. I cleaned it up and put fresh chemical metal over it. Is there any real point spending money on doing up the tractor with this issue?



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,635 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    What's your budget like and how hard is it going to work?

    3 options;

    QTP probably do a block for them.

    Good blacksmith could weld it but it's not an easy job.

    Chemical metal again.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭farmer2018


    Not hard, only going to keep it as a vintage item. I was thinking to spend up to 1k on painting it and cosmetics.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,635 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,635 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Just on batteries, what should be the minimum figures for cold cranking amps and amp hours on a tractor battery?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,304 ✭✭✭FintanMcluskey


    A 663 battery is about 110 amp hours and 850CCA.

    It's the usually the smallest single battery you will see in tractors. It used in the 135s and I also have one in the 110-90 at home. Starts the 110 with a quater of a turn



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,185 ✭✭✭orm0nd


    Not an expert by any means,

    I think ferguson blocks were very difficult to weld, at least years ago but maybe modern methods are better.

    You could try adding a can of K Seal to the coolant/water. It's for repair leaking radiators but might work.

    I have recommended using it on here before but was shot down by the 'experts' saying it causes blocked radiators and overheating issues. This from my experience is utter nonsense if used according to the recommendations.



  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭farmer2018


    Got a fast spin starter it's a good send 😁😂 €200 not bad.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,470 ✭✭✭Field east


    I remember a battery supplier telling me of a customer who was buying a battery every six months from him over a two to three period. When the supplier realised this he found out why this was the case. The customer lived in the town suburbs and all her trips were of very short journeys - one or two miles at time eg to mass, local shops, social events ,funerals.. What was happening was that the battery was not being charged enough by the alternator to replace the energy used to start the car, run the lights , heater, , AC , wipers, etc. hence the battery is constantly being run down on each trip

    I assume that the same applies to any battery. I can see a tractor in places being used for 5 min per day to place one round bale in a circular feeder. I wonder is there anyone out there that knows how long a particular tractor would need to be running for to replace the energy used to start it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,007 ✭✭✭green daries


    Up to four hours a day in winter time my supplier told me. Any less charge every 6 months



  • Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭Diarmuid B


    Have a quick one for ye if anyone has any idea. I have a case international and over the last couple of weeks it’s been hard to start, (new battery gone into it, and it’s been serviced so new oil and diesel filters etc etc) and the last few days it’s losing power when changing gear to the point of nearly cutting out when you go from 1st to 2nd. And now the last two days I can’t get it to start at all. Is this a wiring problem would you think or something gone in the accelerator? I didn’t think it was anything to do with the starter or alternator



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,441 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Diesel issue would be my guess. Is there a filter in the bottom of the tank? Has the main fuel filter been changed recently?



  • Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭Diarmuid B


    Not sure if there’s one at the bottom of the tank, but the two diesel filters at the side of the engine were changed about 6 weeks ago



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,584 ✭✭✭White Clover


    Could be drawing air in the fuel system since the service. Check that filters and all pipes are tightened sufficiently and sealing correctly.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭emaherx


    It does sound like a fuel delivery issue, something not tightened after service or dirt somewhere. Could be small gauze filters at tank, injector pump and/or lift pump.



  • Registered Users Posts: 546 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    If it has the tanks underneath the cab try it with the cap of the diesel tank taken off. Some of those had a habit of almost forming a vacuum in the tanks making it hard to pull the diesel out of them. Try giving it a few pumps of the lift pump too before starting.

    If that fails fill a 5 gallon drum with diesel and connect it to the inlet of the lift pump. Put the drum on the bonnet and see if it will start from there. I do that with my 895 to get it going if it airlocks. Just make sure you have a flow from the drum before connecting to the lift pump.

    You'll have an idea of where your problem is originating from then at least



  • Registered Users Posts: 10,716 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    The alternator has been gone in my tractor for a few weeks now. I keep the battery charged up every few days. I went at it yesterday with the meter and no voltage rise when I started it. Checked the connections at the alternator and one of the wires just fell away.

    Glad I went checking it now, rather than just whipping it off.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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  • Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭Diarmuid B


    Filled the tank up to the top there and after a few half starts it eventually took off. Would it be a gravity tank in this tractor then?



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