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Rim brake road bikes becoming rare

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,492 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    a kitchen scouring pad (not a brillo pad) and a little bit of jif would probably do just as good a job.



  • Registered Users Posts: 675 ✭✭✭ILIKEFOOD


    I recently bought a new set of Mavic Carbon SL 40s - rim brake for my 2014 bike.. I have serious buyers remorse now as I'm thinking that it will be awhile now until I can justify a bike upgrade.. like I should have just put the money towards a new DB bike.. Doh! That said the wheels are class..



  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭byrnem31


    Out this morning on the 105 rims in the wet. Not a bother and they stopped me fine and did not screech like a banshee. You cant beat a good rim job.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,911 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Out this morning on SRAM force and last night in the wet discs. Also didn't scream. Setup is important.


    I hear plenty of squealing rim brakes too. I had one bike that no matter how well adjusted it squeeled like a pig. I like to think I crashed it on purpose


    My Ultegra discs are another matter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    Was going down leixlip hill last week in the rain riding with Swiss stop carbon pads and carbon rims... nearly died.... had not rode in the rain in two years and forgot how much of a delay there is in the wet.


    For aluminium brake surface any brake type will do.... for carbon I'd go with disk for sure.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 562 ✭✭✭ARX


    Is it just that in the wet there's a delay and then the braking is ok, or is it the case that there's a delay and then the braking is poor?

    Alltricks sent me a pair of carbon pads by mistake, so I feel obliged to get a carbon wheelset so they won't go to waste.



  • Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    There's a delay then the braking is good... not as good as it is in the dry. But the delay could catch you out....



    Say its pissing out and your in tight group and doing 35kph and someone in front hits the brakes.... you may be in a sticky situation.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,241 ✭✭✭secman


    I'm always a little wary riding behind disc brake bikes even in dry as I know they will stop quicker... 4 bikes are all rim, 2 winter's on alu wheelset and 2 summers on carbons wheelset. All mechanical too....Total ludite here 😃



  • Registered Users Posts: 848 ✭✭✭gn3dr


    If you can lock up the rear wheel with rim brakes and throw yourself out over the bars with the front, then disc brakes are not going to improve braking performance outside of the amount of force needed at the lever to do both those things. But that is not improving braking performance, it's just reducing the effort needed to pull the lever. There is a point at which the tyre contact on the road is the factor that makes the difference. If both types of brakes lock up a wheel then there is no effective braking difference between them. I think there is even an argument that you will have better braking control and modulation with rim brakes.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,492 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if there is, you're the first person i've ever heard make that claim, to be fair.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,198 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    If your discs squeak then just change the type of pads. Can't remember if it's resin/organic pads that are noisy or metal/sintered. Articles I'm reading point towards metal but I don't remember them squeaking on my MTB and I only used metal pads when I got hydraulic discs.

    My road discs squeak a little just as I'm coming to a stop sometimes in the wet and I'm pretty sure they're resin pads.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL


    You certainly can with both brake types, the discs will stop the wheel rotating faster than rim brakes though, so even if you grab a large handful of brake at the same instant as somebody in front with them on disc, you on rim brakes, there'll be a small amount of time, probably just fractions of a second, before the rim brakes start. so for arguments sake (and simplicity of calculation) you're doing 36km/h at the time, and it takes 0.2s (arbitrarily chosen) for the rim brakes to bite, you'll end up 2m further up the road before your your wheel locks - at which point the stopping distance becomes largely an equation of who ate the most pies.

    From my own perspective, my commute home (when I was in the office) involves a right turn at a roundabout on a dual carraigeway at the bottom of a 6% hill. I always take primary on the outer lane on the way down to make the turn, which usually involves a fair dollop of speed and minimise the risk of being ploughed into by some inattentive bell-end. I had the odd brown chamois moment on damp winter evenings on rim brakes - feathering the brakes to clear off the water, then trying to make them stop the bike and having that period of time which probably seems way longer than it actually is when the bike continues at the same speed. Disks have sorted that and I've had little or no trouble with them in the past 6 years



  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭byrnem31


    Ok, real test today coming back from viewpoint to tallaght on rim after many years on discs. The 105 rims were just as good. I honestly would not notice the difference in performance. The 105 rims were very capable slowing down into corners etc. My brakes are on opposite sides but other than that, i was very happy with the 105 rims.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,884 ✭✭✭cletus


    That settles it so...



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,884 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I'm still on the fence in this discussion - I'm a big fan of discs in general but still appreciate the weight, simplicity and cost of rim brakes (as per my earlier post about a CAAD12 I picked up for 850).

    One thing that continues to baffle me however is why cable discs still exist on relatively high end bikes. I just spotted an ad from a LBS for a 2500+ Kona with cable discs and regularly see them on Genesis etc in a similar price range.

    I could maybe understand in the beginning when hydraulic shifters were a bit of a rarity, or even now on an entry level bike to keep the cost down, but spending 2k+ and seeing the brand cheaping out on a component which will have a huge impact on functionality just annoys me.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,492 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I have the trp hybrid brakes - which work absolutely fine - but you'd have thought one of the main reasons good disk brakes work well is the incompressibility of the hydraulic fluid. On mine, the brake cable runs all the way to the brake so I'm not sure how much benefit having a hydraulic reservoir at the brake itself makes.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,503 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Only thing I can think of is they are basically the same as the non hybrid, with a minor addition) and it was cheaper to manufacture that way, rather than two completely different lines, one for cable and one for hydraulics. (I am probably completely wrong)



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,822 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Yeah cable brakes on a 2 grand bike when a 600 quid mountain bike gets hydraulic?

    T'aint fair!



  • Registered Users Posts: 36,166 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    Same reason Liv can sell bikes with suicide brakes. Lots of consumers have NO idea what they're buying.


    Only thing I can think of is they are basically the same as the non hybrid, with a minor addition) and it was cheaper to manufacture that way, rather than two completely different lines, one for cable and one for hydraulics. (I am probably completely wrong)

    AFAIK you want the hydraulic as the pistons then self "balance" between both sides. And as you say using cables makes it plug and play with existing shifters.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭byrnem31


    Ok, exact same route this morning but it was very wet coming back down. This is where you'd notice the rims compared to discs. The rims performed fine but the dics have the advantage in the wet downhill. Rims still did the job though.

    Its not helping with the brakes being on back to front either so im going to have to sort that out. Gp 4000s were slipping in the wet puttting power down going uphill too so i wasn't overly confident coming back down with them either.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,911 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I've had both. The Hy/rds (and similar) juin techs are just better than the regular spyres. More than a minor upgrade imo



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,569 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    No matter wat tyre you have on you'll slip going uphill out of the saddle in the wet. Worse for heavier riders though.

    At least coming down you have bodyweight over both wheels which should completely do away with any sense of a lack of grip.



  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭byrnem31


    The gp 4000s. They are a very good tyre. I can see why they were so popular. Very cushy ride with them.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,569 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    Great tyre alright. Hard to find (new) nowadays sadly.

    There's a section of road on the Reservoir Dog that must be 18% and in the wet it's a genuine comedy of errors with rear wheel slips.

    Even Stocking Lane in the wet is a handful.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,492 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i wonder where the difference lies; you'd think a cable acting directly on the piston would be not much difference to a cable acting on a hydraulic mechanism to act on the piston. maybe it's the lever required in a purely mechanical setup where the efficiency is lost?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Same here. I've Hy/Rds on the Croix de Fer and recent Ultegra hydraulics on the go fast(er) bike. The Ultegras have maybe slightly better feel, but there wouldn't be much in it. I've never had any issue with the Hy/Rds bar an odd incident down near Bordeaux some years ago when I got taken off track (literally) by relying on Google for navigation in sh1t3 weather. I ended up on trails which in dry weather would've been lovely, but here there was Somme like fine abrasive mud which stripped the pads in less than an hour. I was saved a long walk by the fact it's all flat. I'd guess any pads/brakes would have suffered something similar in the circumstances, and I shudder to think about subjecting a nice set of rims to it



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,325 ✭✭✭Daroxtar


    That would be Cunard. The first couple of hundred yards are lethal in the wet. Moss/algae/leaves and it's definitely 15% or more.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,290 ✭✭✭Macy0161




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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,492 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Speaking of brakes and maintenance, I got caught in a heavy shower a few weeks ago on the bike and gave it a quick wash later. But today I found myself picking tiny shards of metal out of the brake blocks with a pin. I assume it could have been tiny bits of grit which got embedded in them in the wet; and I also gave the brake blocks a scuffing with some sandpaper and could tell the difference in this evenings cycle.



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