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Thinking of upgrading my 151 L24

  • 08-11-2021 10:33am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Hi there,

    So I'm thinking about upgrading this, obviously for another Electric Car, I won't be going back to ICE. My L 24 has 130k on the clock and 11 bars (last SOH of Battery was about 86% earlier in the year).

    I'm probably looking at a budget of around €20k ish, or at least around €12k ish + whatever I get for my L 24, though I do have a little leeway if the right car comes along.

    I'm hopefully gonna arrange some test drives, the Ioniq 38 interests me the most with regards to how the car looks, but I do need to drive it. Obviously no matter what I get my range is going to increase!

    Apart from looking for some general advice from everyone here, I also have some small questions that people might be able to help with. For example, sometimes it's the little things that make a difference, and I love that I can turn the heating on remotely using the App on my phone, that the seats/steering wheel are heated, etc. on my L24. Can anyone let me know if the Ioniq 38 has those features? Does it have a reversing camera? None of those little things are essential, but they're nice to haves that I've gotten used to!

    Also, if I sell my L 24 privately, what's the best way of arranging payment, is it Bank Draft? I'm asking 'cos any car I've sold in the past has only been worth a couple of grand at most, so cash was fine, but I'm hoping the L24 will be worth a bit more that that and I don't know the safest way of dealing with the sale?

    Thanks...



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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,601 ✭✭✭ the_amazing_raisin
    Registered User


    Ioniq38, Leaf40 and possibly even a Kona should be within range of your budget

    Although it's a sellers market these days, so don't be expecting any deals

    On the other hand, it puts you in a good position for selling your current Leaf

    In terms of payment, you can do a bank transfer directly into your account instead of messing around with bank drafts. Money usually arrives within a day and if using revolut it can arrive instantly



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Thanks for your reply!

    Regarding the Ioniq 38, I've heard of a facelift model. Are all 38s the newer, facelift one, and all 28s the older one, or is it more complicated than that? I have heard the facelift model has the 'dimpled' grill, so I suppose I'm asking are there any 28s with the dimpled grill, or any 38s with the smooth one? Just trying to figure out an easy way to tell them apart?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,028 ✭✭✭ Lantus
    Registered User


    Your budget would stretch to a 2017 ioniq or 2018 leaf 40. It's a tough time to buy and demand for EVs are very high pushing used prices up.


    There are some good threads on selling cars you should look up.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 31,150 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭ Mickeroo
    Administrator


    Only the 38kwh has the facelift and all pre-facelift cars are 28kwh. I don't think you can get a 38kwh for 20k either, you'd only be looking at the 28kwh for that money (unless I've picked you up wrong on your budget) Would still be a nice upgrade on the leaf, but there is no app support, to preheat the car you need to set it by a timer in the car. The 38kwh was supposed to have app support here, but I have a feeling that it never actually happened (hopefully current owners can clarify).



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,492 Mod ✭✭✭✭ slave1
    Moderator


    38kWh has no app support.

    OP, we were in the exact same scenario earlier in the year, looked at a good few options inc the Ioniq38/Peugeot e208 etc and in the end stretched the budget for a Kona 64kWh. 100% no regrets and well worth the budget stretch for significant range increase



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Thanks for all the advice everyone, keep it coming!

    I do have an option to stretch my budget a little, so I'll keep that in mind. Interesting that there's no App support in the Ioniq, that's a shame, but hardly a deal breaker.

    My issue with the Kona is it looks like the boot and rear cabin are a lot smaller? The extra range of the Kona would probably be wasted on me, I drive about 30-40k most days, and it's only the rare day that I need a public charger. That said, that rare day has happened a bit more recently, so that's what got me thinking. But even the Ioniq 28 would be a jump in range for me.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,492 Mod ✭✭✭✭ slave1
    Moderator


    Correct on Kona size, but our second car so not an issue and the range payoff was (for us) worth it.

    Ioniq38 a huge spec car, we were very tempted



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    I've been thinking about it, and the way I see it I have two options.

    Firstly, I can do a small upgrade. Like to a 2018 Leaf 40 or Ioniq 28. It'll be a newer car, with better range, and it won't break the bank in terms of cost.

    Secondly, I can bite the bullet and aim higher, like a Ioniq 38 or something, and break my budget.

    Not sure which I'll do yet, think I'll have a look at some cars and arrange some test drives.

    By the way, what's the story with the 'mechanical' speedometer on the Leaf 40s? I like the digital look of the L24 dash, and it looks like a step back on the L40?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Something else I just thought of, I have a tethered Zappi Type 1 charger at home. I presume this will need to be changed to Type 2? Can this be done with an adapter, or can the cable be changed, or is it a whole new Zappi charger?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,492 Mod ✭✭✭✭ slave1
    Moderator


    The cable can be changed, I had a faulty cable on my Z2 and changed it in about 20 minutes. You can use a Type1 to Type2 adapter (we used one for a few months) but don't go there, not worth the hassle and same cost as new cable anyhow



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,601 ✭✭✭ the_amazing_raisin
    Registered User


    I believe a few Zappi owners have been able to purchase a Type 2 cable which can be swapped out from the Type 1 on a tethered Zappi (by a qualifed electrician of course)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,601 ✭✭✭ the_amazing_raisin
    Registered User


    Another option is getting a Leaf62 at 0% finance from Nissan. It's an older design, but you can put down your current car as deposit, get a longer range car without paying interest and in 3 years trade up to something newer



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    That's great about the Zappi Cable, thanks!

    That's interesting about the finance, I'll look into that too. Though I really don't think I need that kind of range, we have a second car that we use for cross country driving.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    I'm new to the Finance thing, would that be HP or PCP - their website lists both. Whats the difference between them?

    And they both suggest a 10% Deposit, my car would be worth a good bit more that than, right? So would they therefore take it as (say) a 20% or 30% deposit, and reduce the figures accordingly?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,601 ✭✭✭ the_amazing_raisin
    Registered User


    Disclaimer: Go talk to Nissan for accurate figures

    HP - Big deposit, usually 40% minimum, monthly repayments until the car is paid off and you own it

    PCP - Smaller despoit (min 10%), montly repayments for a set time (typically 3 years) and a big payment at the end (called GMFV)

    Short story with PCPs, they're a gambit by garages to get customers back every few years to buy a new car. The idea is that your current PCP gets sold or traded in, the final payment on the loan is paid off and the remaining equity goes towards a new car. You also have the option of paying this amout and the car is yours

    Do all your research on the pros and cons before getting into any sort of finance agreement, but it's hard to argue with a 0% interest loan. You'll need to factor in things like GAP insurance, what happens if you decide to hand back the car and your annual mileage

    It also opens up the wonderful world of predicting depreciation. The Leaf is a bit of a mystery in this regard. It's probably going to suffer somewhat since the charging network isn't going to get any better (Chademo installs are on the way out) and the Leaf62 suffers from rapidgating problems, so chances are the future value mightn't be great

    On the other hand, demand for EVs isn't going down anytime soon and the Leaf is still a decent car in every other regard. And if you can save while making the monthly repayments, you're basically renting the car for 3 years and can get a bigger deposit towards your next car



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Thanks for those details, I appreciate.

    So, I think I understand most of it, apart from the trade-in part of the PCP. At the end of the PCP, I can walk away with no car and not pay anything else (I've essentially rented the car for the period of the PCP) or I can pay the GMFV and the car is mine. Is that correct? What I don't understand is the trade-in part? The GMFV is still owed, and I still have to pay it, but any difference between the GMFV and the actual dealer value of the car can then be used as a deposit, right?

    What I'm also struggling with is where I find the money for GMFV at the end of the PCP!

    But like you say, 0% Interest is, well, interesting! :)

    Actually, another quick thing, I presume I'd probably get more for my own car in a private sale than the value the Dealer would put on it as a deposit on the 0% offer? In other words, if I could, selling my own car and then using cash as a deposit would probably get me more than just using the car itself? I will of course check Nissan for their actual figures...



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Ok, here's a "how long is a piece of string" question, but approx. what is my current car worth, do ye reckon? It's a 151 L24 SV, 130,000 Km, 11 bars, SOH was 86% earlier in the year, 6.6 kWh Charger, Cold Pack, good condition, and with a Granny Cable? I'm finding it hard to compare with cars online, as I don't know if they have 6.6 charging and the Cold Pack or not. Just trying to get a sense of it. Thanks!



  • Registered Users Posts: 387 ✭✭ sh81722
    Registered User


    Unfortunately the extras above don't necessarily add much if any price at the second hand market. But at the same time they most likely will make the car to sell quicker if the owner is clued. Based on DD ads I'd say 8000 asking and see what happens.

    I would actually recommend a L40 without hesitation if you can get an early car (181 or 182) that is above average in mileage. Based on what we sold ours this summer I'd say 17/18k would buy you one from non-franchised dealer like electricautos and they have pretty much twice the range of the L24 in real life and also charge at a bit quicker rate at low state of charge than a L24 before the battery rapidgates after the second charging session of the day. Also might be worth trying to broker a trade in deal with a second hand dealer. Likewise see if a Nissan dealer would do a deal on a new L40.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Thanks for your reply!

    Have been chatting to a Nissan Dealer about the 0% finance. They're offering €7,000 for mine as trade in. The price of a new L40 IU was looking at also doesn't include €1,800 delivery charges, which seems rather steep to me! Will do some maths and see what I think.

    Could another Nissan Dealer potentially give me a better offer for mine, or are they all singing off the same hymn sheet?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,601 ✭✭✭ the_amazing_raisin
    Registered User


    In general the list price of the car probably won't change, but you might get a better trade in for your current car



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  • Registered Users Posts: 387 ✭✭ sh81722
    Registered User


    Sure, worth ringing some more dealers. I have personally dealth with Windsor Airport and Naas and would recommend both of those. Naas dealer actually rang and texted me about trading in our L40 recently but we had already moved on. But they seem very keen to sell cars.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,368 ✭✭✭ JimmyVik
    Registered User




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    The talk of 0% Finance and the hope of a decent price for my car got me interested in a new L40 SVE. €33,350 according to Nissan.ie, €35,748 according to Nissan Naas, including Metallic Paint and then the delivery charges etc. That extra €2,400 has me pausing for thought a litte, that's a chunk of money I wasn't expecting.

    I'm gonna try a couple of other Nissan Dealers to see if I can get a better price for my car, and if not will have to decide if I want to go down the private sale route, and whether it'll be worth it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 24,929 ✭✭✭✭ TitianGerm
    Registered User


    At those prices would you not ring around a few VW dealers and see do they have any demo ID3 available? Or the same with Peugeot for the e208?



  • Registered Users Posts: 387 ✭✭ sh81722
    Registered User


    Yes, indeed. We are talking about better part of 30k cost of change vs. 10-15k in best case to change for a SV+/SVE 181 reg L40. It's a big jump. An eNiro 64 kWh and perhaps even ID3 58 kWh are getting close enough both of which offer CCS for future proofing and more range.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Thanks for your advice. Lack of 0% finance, and lack of a decent boot in the e208, would cause me some problems I think. The only reason I'm looking at a new car is that 0% finance, that would make it doable I reckon.

    Otherwise, I'm back to looking at a 2nd hand Leaf/Ioniq.

    While I am conscious of the CCS/Chademo future proofing issue, I'm not as worried about getting 58 kWh + ranges, an L40 would easily give me all the range I need for the foreseeable. I've had the L24 for three years, and I only use public chargers with it maybe once or twice a month at the moment, and some months not at all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    Ok, am visiting Windsor Nissan Liffey Valley & Belgard on Friday. Will get a test drive of the demo SVE in Liffey Valley. Both garages want to see my car before giving a value for it, which is fair enough. Liffey Valley have said it could be April before they get an SVE in, and that's not guaranteed. Belgard say they've an SVE on the way (Naas had said they'd get an SVE for Jan if ordered in the middle of this month).

    Will see what they all say on the day, thanks for all your advice so far.

    If I can't get a new one to work out, I'll go back to looking at 2018/2019 ones instead I reckon.

    This is all your fault the_amazing_raisin, with your talk of 0% finance! :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,368 ✭✭✭ JimmyVik
    Registered User


    That €2400 is the cost of your 0% finance :)

    Look at it another way. You are paying €33k minus the price you get for your car for your last 6 years of driving.



  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭ Gile_na_gile
    Registered User


    You could also factor SH L40s and L62s into the mix from Nissan dealers, which are available instantly. Personally, I think the value point is a SH L62 for 30k ish or an L40 201/202 SVE for around 25k. For your situation, it sounds like the 40kWh battery is sufficient. I got a new L40 SV in 2019 for just over 28.5k with parking sensors. Seems a lot to pay 5k more now for the SVE trim, but there are shortages.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭ jasonb
    Registered User


    I think one of the things that annoyed me about the unexpected "extra" €2,400 is that even the PCP/HP figures/examples on the website use the base figures (not including delivery charges etc.) so you use those examples to start figuring out your finance and then you ring a garage and find out it's more.

    When it comes down to it, I'll have to calculate exactly how much a 0% new car costs me over the term of the loan, compare that with the cost of a x% SH car over the term of the loan, and see if the difference is worth it. Assuming new cars are actually available, 3 different garages have given me three different initial answers to that question!



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