Rimfire mod cleaning

Czhornet

What are people using to clean that grey muck from the inside of a rimfire mod baffles. Its a .22lr using subs.
I find it very hard to clean it out with normal gun cleaning products.

Any suggestions as to what to use and how to do it?

Thanks

Richard308

Czhornet wrote: »

What are people using to clean that grey muck from the inside of a rimfire mod baffles. Its a .22lr using subs.
I find it very hard to clean it out with normal gun cleaning products.

Any suggestions as to what to use and how to do it?

Thanks

If very bad you could soak it in hoppes number 9, vinegar would probably clean it too.

JP22

Check out the following link.

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/atta...4&d=1614085038


Update - try this.

Czhornet

JP22 wrote: »

Check out the following link.

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/atta...4&d=1614085038

Link not working. Not for me anyway.

Cass

If it breaks down into pieces you're sorted but if not then use a carbon cleaner. Brake/clutch cleaner works well and the Mod is going to be mostly carbon build up. Soak it, plug both ends and shake vigorously. The longer you leave the cleaner in the better it works. Depending on caliber you can use a shotgun brush to help clean some of it, but for the most part, with solid mods, it'll require soaking and patience.

clivej

I used fairy liquid and warm water, scrubbed with a tooth brush.

Best to wear gloves whilst doing it.

keith s

What a manky job, I hate doing it.
Good to see what others are doing.

Czhornet

JP22 wrote: »

Check out the following link.

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/atta...4&d=1614085038


Update - try this.

that is a serious booklet with some very good reading in it. Thanks

Czhornet

Cass wrote: »

If it breaks down into pieces you're sorted but if not then use a carbon cleaner. Brake/clutch cleaner works well and the Mod is going to be mostly carbon build up. Soak it, plug both ends and shake vigorously. The longer you leave the cleaner in the better it works. Depending on caliber you can use a shotgun brush to help clean some of it, but for the most part, with solid mods, it'll require soaking and patience.

Thanks Cass,

Is there anything I can put on the inside of the mod parts (lubricant/oil etc) to help it not to stick and make it easier to clean the next time?

Grizzly 45

But clean it soonest too.
I left my PH .22 for a couple of months and the powder residue started to rust the baffles! Not badly, but enough to discolour the metal permanently,and taking a 1/2 hour to get them out with the disassembly tool.. remember,there is moisture in the air in there when fired, combined with the gas and powder residue it will start forming corrosive compounds.

Feisar

Grizzly 45 wrote: »

But clean it soonest too.
I left my PH .22 for a couple of months and the powder residue started to rust the baffles! Not badly, but enough to discolour the metal permanently,and taking a 1/2 hour to get them out with the disassembly tool.. remember,there is moisture in the air in there when fired, combined with the gas and powder residue it will start forming corrosive compounds.

I notice that most with centerfire mods. You'll get moisture in them and on the threads with the rifle.

Grizzly 45

Gun happy gave me some oil years ago for making life easier in cleaning these.Called MIL-TEC 1. Its a kind of penetrating oil, protective coating for parts that get extremely hot. You have to use/clean/use it 3 times. So its a bit of a pain to do right and you need to heat the parts to their operating temp by either
firing the gun or by as I did it, plonking them on top of a woodstove one Winters evening,but it lasts apparently 5k worth of shots between cleaning if done right.
It does work pretty well in the CF silencers.

Cass

Czhornet wrote: »

Thanks Cass,

Is there anything I can put on the inside of the mod parts (lubricant/oil etc) to help it not to stick and make it easier to clean the next time?

Unfortunately not. Anything you use to act as a "barrier" will only serve to be a trap for the fouling and carbon build up which will create a burnt in paste. There is also the issue of how to apply it properly if the suppressor doesn't break down.

Its really down to how often you clean and the money you want to invest. For example an ultra sonic cleaner would do a great job. Some units cost as little as €30 but reviews on their effectiveness are mixed. €30 is the price of a couple of bottles of cleaner so its down to how much you want to spend or more accurately how much is it worth to have something that works time and again. IOW if the ultrasonic cleaner done the business it'd be worth the initial outlay. Plus you'll find other uses.

BTW with all the above in mind i'm not telling you to rush out and buy one, its just an option.

CJhaughey

I use white spirits as a cleaning agent, cheap, smells a bit, but you can get low odour stuff.
Its extremely effective at removing powder residue etc.
Quite a few of the commercial preparations use it as part of their formulations.

JP22

Having served for 34 odd years one thing we all learnt pretty quickly was that it’s far easier to clean a warm firearm than a cold one.

The minute you are finished on the range patch out the barrel before it gets cold, a couple of patches through the barrel at this stage makes a huge difference when doing a complete clean later on.

The same applies for semi autos and if you have time while still warm clean all pistons/springs/piston plugs etc.

Like the breach/barrel, sound mods must be clean and dry, definitely no oil/grease of any sort on the internal baffles. For cleaning, dissemble and soak parts in white spirits/white vinegar/petrol or any good firearm cleaning product.

Thoroughly dry before re-assembly and use.

pm.

Not sure if this is good advice or not but I buy the cheapest cola I can put it in a container overnight wash it with plenty of water and oil she sh1t out of it, it will smoke like a turf fire for the first couple of shots but served ne well over the years

BSA International

Always found diesel good but messy when cleaning the mag.

Feisar

Cass wrote: »

Unfortunately not. Anything you use to act as a "barrier" will only serve to be a trap for the fouling and carbon build up which will create a burnt in paste. There is also the issue of how to apply it properly if the suppressor doesn't break down.

Its really down to how often you clean and the money you want to invest. For example an ultra sonic cleaner would do a great job. Some units cost as little as €30 but reviews on their effectiveness are mixed. €30 is the price of a couple of bottles of cleaner so its down to how much you want to spend or more accurately how much is it worth to have something that works time and again. IOW if the ultrasonic cleaner done the business it'd be worth the initial outlay. Plus you'll find other uses.

BTW with all the above in mind i'm not telling you to rush out and buy one, its just an option.

IMHO the €30, Aldi/Lidl ones are a waste of time, you'd be as well humming into the water. I got a proper one, DK Sonic, 2L.
Just a note on sizing, you'd think 2 liters would be loads of space but that doesn't account for the basket that sits in the cleaner. I can just about fit a disassembled A Tec in it.
Also look into what cleaning fluids can be used with aluminium.

Grizzly 45

Just tried an excellent rust and gunk remover...Cane molasses and water...
Cane molasses from your health food shop, water from tap in a 1to10 maix, stir well, throw your rusty parts into it for 24 hours,or as long as needed to remove the rust.
Tried it on my .22 silencer baffles over 24 hours. have them down to the bare metal now.