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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,140 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    That sounds like the 12v to me alright. Has the car been sitting without moving for a bit lately?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭loopymum


    No, only the very odd day it would not get used. I was out yesterday in it & came home with 10% battery in it. Charged it to 100 overnight



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,400 ✭✭✭eagerv


    We had something similar just before we traded ours at end of last year. Thought it may have been the 12V but was a rear sensor that was replaced under warranty. I think someone else here had the same..



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Did car start, did it drive, did the errors go away? Did they go away on second drive? Typically I recommend replacing 12 volt every 2 years as a precaution and always carry a small jumper pack in glove box.

    How old is 12 volt battery?

    If errors went away then it's likely a 12 volt from a local motor factors will keep you going for another year or two.

    Typically an error in say a wheel speed sensor will cause loads of systems to disable themselves like your errors. Sometimes a stone could knock one out of place or damage wiring. If it happens first after start up it's unlikely something was damaged while stopped.

    Post edited by zg3409 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭loopymum


    The car is driving, errors haven't gone away on restarting. I've had the car 19months & i have not replaced the 12volt



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    If under warranty bring to dealer. If not under warranty replace battery, and if issues don't go away ask dealer for a quote and consider non dealer repairs such as EV specialist in Arklow



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,367 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Try trickle charging the 12v or at least get a multimeter on it.

    If you're on the latest software it shouldnt be an issue. My Ioniq28 does a top up of the 12v (indicated by flashing middle blue light) every odd day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭loopymum


    In & out of the car yesterday afternoon & it went off after a bit.

    No errors today



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭quenching


    My 172 Ioniq is due it’s service according to the car display, well 1200 miles overdue. I called 2 Hyundai dealers today, the first said it would be €279 as “the battery coolant needed to be changed” at 60k miles. From what I can tell the battery in a 28kWh Ioniq is air cooled so I’m a bit puzzled by that, but open to correction.

    The 2nd dealer quoted €179, no mention of coolant change. I had the mileage wrong for the first dealer though, I originally thought 50k miles but the correct figure of 42k miles was given to the 2nd dealer. Both garages in Dublin.

    What should a 42k mile service on a 172 Ioniq 28kWh actually cost these days?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    There is no coolant for battery. There is coolant green stuff for inverter but I don't think it ever needs changing. Check the date your 5 year "everything" warranty is out with Hyundai and if already out you can reset the service warning yourself. Go into the steering wheel menu and under service just hold the button in and it will reset. I needed to do this as dealer forgot.

    If out of warranty go to back street place to give it a once over. The NCT will also give it a quick safety test every 2 years. Do the standard stuff yourself such as tyre thread depth, tyre pressure (in menu) , and you can charge the pollen filter yourself for about 15 euro with no tools inside glove box.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,351 ✭✭✭jprboy


    What should a 42k mile service on a 172 Ioniq 28kWh actually cost these days?

    I recently had a 60k km (not a huge amount less than 42k miles) service carried out.

    Total cost was €95 and this included a new pollen filter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭quenching


    Could you say where? It’s not due an NCT until next year so I’d be happy enough to pay this for a “safety check” as there’s no work needed. Last years service was essentially nothing other than a pollen filter change.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,351 ✭✭✭jprboy




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭quenching


    Thanks, I’ll point this out to the Dublin dealers. I suspect their level of interest will be minimal 😀



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,365 ✭✭✭baldshin


    I had this recently on a 172 model. Would go away intermittently but brought it to the dealer to check as the warranty was running out. Turned out it was a rear sensor that needed to be replaced under warranty. Definitely worth having them scan the car for errors if still in warranty.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,365 ✭✭✭baldshin




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,953 ✭✭✭rocky


    Bjorn's currently doing a "Sunday driving" test - any predictions on how far he will go? I say 260km





  • Registered Users Posts: 64,774 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Depends on the weather and his speeds. If around 20C and he won't go over 100km/h then he could very well go 270-280km. The only car in the world that will make it's NEDC range 😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,400 ✭✭✭eagerv


    He will need to improve a bit, perhaps I misheard on the few mins of live stream I watched, but think he's on about 110Wh/km. Which is Model 3 RWD territory in those conditions and speed.

    My guess 235km..



  • Registered Users Posts: 64,774 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    245.1km

    100Wh/km means he did not have the full 28kWh avaiable, otherwise he would have made 280km. Is this car a bit older / higher mileage / with degradation?

    Watched the last wee while. Quite hilly and I think he said 27C, neither are ideal. But still almost 25% higher than the WLTP range so not bad. Wish I still had mine, I would have liked to make 300km on a good day, just to prove a point (and no, not using any hypermiling techniques, just driving smoothly)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,367 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    That car must have something wrong with it or insane degradation or something. 245.1km at 100wh/km means only 24.5kWh available energy? My ioniq with 135k km has 100% SOH according to the OBD and I can still pull just under 28kWh of energy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭quenching


    Does anyone know the latest software version for software/maps etc? The Hyundai dealer says there are no updates since 5th Aug 2021. My software version is currently AE_EV.EUR.SOP.010.6.210111.

    The Hyundai website seems to indicate an update from May 2022




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Anyone know the crash history on this car? Limerick reg, 171 now for sale in Louth and flagged as category D right off. Anyone know what the damage was and where?



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,786 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    My car hasn't been rapid charged for over 12 months

    Does it make a difference



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I am not sure on the question. In general you should try and reduce the number of rapid charges and when you do rapid charge stop charging before 100% if you can and particularly if you can make it home and charge on cheaper home rates. Lots of rapid charges are not good for the battery but the ioniq does use forced air cooling to reduce any possible overheating of the battery so actual damage may be minimal. It's more likely to be noticeable on cars with crazy high mileage like 250,000km than your typical newish low mileage EV.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,786 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    I was more wondering if very low mileage EVs on 100 percent home charging - needed the occasional rapid charge to help the battery stay at its best.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,565 ✭✭✭zg3409


    No. There is some anecdotal reports from leafs saying that after a chademo charge the battery reported less degredation but that is probably a glitch in the battery management system rather than a faster charge helping fix the battery. It is recommended to run the battery below 20% once in a while and up to 100% once in a while as this helps the battery management system learn and balance each cell and the estimated range shown by the car becomes more accurate. If you never run your car low then when you do the range estimate to empty can be very wrong resulting going from 10% left to 0% left in a few miles as the management system is confused as to how much is left in each cell. Over time the management system learns every single cells limitations and has a very good idea of when each cell will go flat.



  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭✭ Henrik Squeaking Pest


    My Ioniq28 (now out of warranty) in with garage today after "Check AEB System" warning lights and all electric driving assists off.

    OBD scan said issue with ABS sensor in rear tyre, hopefully nothing too drastic



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,400 ✭✭✭eagerv


    It's a simple fix, seems to be fairly common at this stage of the cars life. Ours was done just before warranty ran out last Christmas. However part took about a week to arrive and god knows how much would cost, knowing Hyundai



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  • Registered Users Posts: 528 ✭✭✭raddo


    I have the same issue at the moment. Out of warranty and got a quote from Kearys in Cork for €351 to fix



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