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Skipping gear help

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    #32
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    at1withmyself wrote: »
    Shimano have great compatibility charts...

    As per above post some parts are not back or forward compatible so that could be your issue.

    Shimano Road Rear Drivetrain Compatibility (scroll to the 2x10 speed section)

    Confirm what ST (shifters) you have, then work across to the right to confirm that the RD (rear derailleur) that you have is compatible.


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    #33
    paddie9
    Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭paddie9


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Shimano Road Rear Drivetrain Compatibility (scroll to the 2x10 speed section)

    Confirm what ST (shifters) you have, then work across to the right to confirm that the RD (rear derailleur) that you have is compatible.

    There was a 4600 shifter and derailleur on it.
    I changed the derailleur to a 5701 derailleur. HG 10 speed cassette and chain. Checked pre-purchase all should match
    Ive tried various mixes of the parts before and after realignment


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    #34
    paddie9
    Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭paddie9


    Have in such a way that it changes smoothly up and down, while skipping a gear each way. Im inclined to give up at that for a while.


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    #35
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    That should all be compatible.

    If everything is compatible, and nothing is misaligned, the only thing that I can think of is that the inner wire of the rear derailleur cable is on the wrong side of the pinch-bolt, but that usually gives a much worse performance than just skipping one gear each way.

    Edit: are the jockey wheels of the RD original, and are they still correctly positioned? (top one is marked Centron G-Pulley or similar, and lower one is marked tension pulley or similar). The top one is designed to have some lateral play by design, and if you accidentally swap them, or fit (some types of) third-party pulleys, the indexing can be poor, especially with narrower setups (9/10/11 speed)


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    #36
    at1withmyself
    Registered Users Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    paddie9 wrote: »
    There was a 4600 shifter and derailleur on it.
    I changed the derailleur to a 5701 derailleur. HG 10 speed cassette and chain. Checked pre-purchase all should match
    Ive tried various mixes of the parts before and after realignment

    What model us the cassette and chain?


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    #37
    paddie9
    Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭paddie9


    Type 17 wrote: »
    That should all be compatible.

    If everything is compatible, and nothing is misaligned, the only thing that I can think of is that the inner wire of the rear derailleur cable is on the wrong side of the pinch-bolt, but that usually gives a much worse performance than just skipping one gear each way.


    Hard to belive but it was the wire on the outside. The pinch bolt compressing plate was turned the wrong way.
    Fairplay never heard before, 7 bikes in shed all arranged differently first time ever had that problem


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    #38
    paddie9
    Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭paddie9


    Big Thanks to everybody for contributions, thought I was going to run into serious expense.
    Think I originally had a different issue, first derailleur definitely bent, the handset was also misaligned.

    Hope I can help someone sometime


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    #39
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    paddie9 wrote: »
    Hard to believe but it was the wire on the outside. The pinch bolt compressing plate was turned the wrong way.
    Fairplay never heard before, 7 bikes in shed all arranged differently first time ever had that problem

    Good to hear that it got sorted - the routing matters because having it the wrong side of the bolt effectively alters the length of the arm that the pinch-bolt is on, and messes up the indexing.
    A similar, common issue is routing the cable for many front derailleurs under the boss that is beside the pinch-bolt, when the correct route is over the top of the boss, and then under the bolt.

    Rear derailleur cable routing does depend on the derailleur model - on most of the older stuff, the cable goes on the inside of the bolt (closest to the spokes), but on some newer, high-end stuff, the cable goes outside of the pinch-bolt.
    If you're unsure, remove the bolt and examine the derailleur body - there's almost always a pathway stamped/moulded into the metal. Also note that the curved tabs on the pinch-bolt washers are to prevent the washer rotating during tightening, and not to put the cable under.


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