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Respray of damaged area?

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 21,701 ✭✭✭✭ mickdw


    Oh I didn't realise we had an online District court Judge on here!

    Amazing how you can predict the outcome of a case even without seeing any evidence.

    I was told I would lose also, but I paid my 25 euro and submitted my evidence online and the company didn't dispute it but sent the court registrar the cheque to cover my claim.

    Many companies and Councils know they are in the wrong but will make it as difficult as possible and will try to delay and delay and try and make you go away......which is exactly your bar stool attitude!

    But as silly as it is, the council are not liable in the majority of cases.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,445 ✭✭✭ Casati


    pegdrums wrote: »
    Thanks again. I'll contact a few places for a quote......I'll let ya know how it goes and which way they fix it

    Did something similar here and it’s wasn’t a very expensive fix - maybe 300/400 quid. That looks like it can be pulled out and filled and sanded before spraying rather than having to cut and weld.

    Defo get it ASAP, looks like it’s been left v long already and the rust will get worse quickly


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,051 ✭✭✭ Truckermal


    pegdrums wrote: »
    Worst part was the car was only 6/7 months old at the time :mad:

    You must have left if for year's considering how badly it's rusted!


  • Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭ pegdrums


    Truckermal wrote: »
    You must have left if for year's considering how badly it's rusted!

    6 months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,588 ✭✭✭ Mad_Mike


    I had almost identical damage to a BMW 5 series sill a few years ago
    Left it for about a year and started to rust badly
    Finally got it repaired and from memory, it cost around €230, but that was maybe 10 years ago, but I was surprised how little it cost to have it done
    Kept putting it off thinking it would cost an awful lot more


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  • Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭ pegdrums


    Mad_Mike wrote: »
    I had almost identical damage to a BMW 5 series sill a few years ago
    Left it for about a year and started to rust badly
    Finally got it repaired and from memory, it cost around €230, but that was maybe 10 years ago, but I was surprised how little it cost to have it done
    Kept putting it off thinking it would cost an awful lot more

    Did ya get the panel pulled out and painted or just painted?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,588 ✭✭✭ Mad_Mike


    They pulled it back out and then painted it


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,035 ✭✭✭ Tuco88


    Pitty you didn't cover the area in lithium grease or car wax it would have held off the rusting until correct repair.

    Out of curiosity, would they attempt to pull out the dent or body filler and paint in this case?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,035 ✭✭✭ Tuco88


    I've come across car repairs, that the man that did it should have been a plaster, Wasted in body work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,604 ✭✭✭ jmreire


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    I've come across car repairs, that the man that did it should have been a plaster, Wasted in body work.

    :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

    Buts its a fact of life.. go into any bodyshop, and you will find tins of filler, the problem is the amount used on any repair, and of course where its used, the actual location. On door pillars, near locking pins etc. it's a big no-no. On a sill panel like the one under discussion, even to cut out the damaged section and replace it with a completely new section, will require a small amount of fillers to level the weld joints. And this is completely acceptable. There is an alternative to the poly fillers commonly used, it's lead. But while it was once very common in Bodyshops, its not used so much anymore. New ford Capri's used lead on the joints between the rear 1/4 panel and where it joined the roof, and other vehicles manufacturers used it as well.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 387 ✭✭ Ta ceist agam


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    Pitty you didn't cover the area in lithium grease or car wax it would have held off the rusting until correct repair.

    Out of curiosity, would they attempt to pull out the dent or body filler and paint in this case?

    I don't think the Dacia Sandero comes with a bag of lithium grease as standard in the glovebox.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,604 ✭✭✭ jmreire


    I don't think the Dacia Sandero comes with a bag of lithium grease as standard in the glovebox.

    Need not be lithium or any other grease, in fact grease is very messy....for temporary repair's, to prevent rust forming, any other kind of paint will do,, even house paint. Rust is an oxide that form's when bare metal is exposed to the air, so any thing which prevents that contact, will stop the rusting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭ pegdrums


    Here ya go....all done.

    350 all in. Absolutely cracking job. Big tjanks to the lads in fix auto in togher in Cork.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,035 ✭✭✭ Tuco88


    jmreire wrote: »
    Need not be lithium or any other grease, in fact grease is very messy....for temporary repair's, to prevent rust forming, any other kind of paint will do,, even house paint. Rust is an oxide that form's when bare metal is exposed to the air, so any thing which prevents that contact, will stop the rusting.

    Thats what the grease will do it will form a barrier until painted correctly. Why put house paint it just mean more sanding and work for the bodyshop lads. You'll get the grease off in seconds with alcohol or a de-decreasing agent.


  • Registered Users Posts: 72,611 ✭✭✭✭ colm_mcm


    A body shop would have house paint off in a few seconds.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,604 ✭✭✭ jmreire


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    A body shop would have house paint off in a few seconds.

    Indeed they would. Putting grease or any kind of oily mixture on a panel that will have to be painted, is a big no -no. (and I should know, I've painted enough of them )


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,035 ✭✭✭ Tuco88


    https://www.autoguide.com/buyers-guide-the-5-best-rust-inhibitors.

    Its what I was told and read to do. Each to there and all. Emulsion wont last on metal it will start to lift with dampness.

    Your Oily substance will come from the road environment anyway. All descent bodyshops will clean and prep the panel anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,051 ✭✭✭ Truckermal


    Some old school wallpaper too if your going down that road!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,604 ✭✭✭ jmreire


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    https://www.autoguide.com/buyers-guide-the-5-best-rust-inhibitors.

    Its what I was told and read to do. Each to there and all. Emulsion wont last on metal it will start to lift with dampness.

    Your Oily substance will come from the road environment anyway. All descent
    bodyshops will clean and prep the panel anyway.

    Anything put on bare metal will lift or otherwise flake off..thats why preparation of panels is 90% of the job,,,, the actual painting is the quickest part of it. The products you mention will do the job they are designed to do. On the exterior of that sill panel, the painted finish will prevent rust. But then we come to the interior of the sill panel,,because its a box section, And if the damaged section has been cut out, either to repair or replace, then it will have been welded back in place, Which means that while the external part can be cleaned and prepared for painting, the same cannot be said for the internal section.. and especially if it has been welded. Normally, if there is no access into the box section, from the "back" of the panel, a small hole will be drilled it and something like what you linked to will be pumped into the box section cavity to stop it rusting internally.There are lots of branded rust inhibitors around, but we were speaking about something that would prevent the rust from getting any worse, and I suggested paint..any paint that would prevent air or moisture on the bare metal. But you have gotten it sorted now, so you should be OK.


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