https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
1967 VW Variant.
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Today I had to make a cover plate for the 90 degree turn at the end of the heater tube, upwards towards the screen defroster. This is normally left out on some restorations as the outer cill panel covers it anyway. But the problem is that because the heater tube terminates in an open arrangement, I believe you lose some pressure from the heat going to the windscreen. Ideally the turn in direction wants be as close a fit as possible to maintain a good flow to the windscreen.
The type 3 vw's have a far superior windscreen defrost ability than the normal beetle. You wont ever be complaining about type 3 heat ability unless your system is in poor order.
Here you can see the heater flap in the vertical position that allows heat to the floor footwell, as well as opening the pathway to the windscreen defrost.
Here you can see the flap fully open to the floor footwell, and closed to the pathway up the door post trunking to the screen.
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Now that I have the end heater socket fabbed enough for final trimming before I weld. I will prpe all the parts for seam welding, or spot welding with holes where they need to be. I am still waiting for a call back from some safety chaps about the best mask for galvanised metal fumes, but nothing yet. So maybe no welding today until i get that.
I also will apply some rust protector to any existing metal that I have access to before I start welding. And in the rust areas I cant get access to I will apply Convert Ox convertor to protect against ongoing rust. It converts any rust to a polymer based coating that prevents further rust.Werk34 in Germany is one of the only companies that supply any parts for type 3 vw's like this one.....when they get their hands on NOS. Expensive, but they dont make parts any more except for one or two. The cills thankfully
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So I drilled and prepped the parts for installation. I secured in the rubber seal below the channel, and placed that in temporarily to put pressure on the seal until it cures in 48 hours. I used Tek 7 for that.
Then i copper greased the floor pan bolts and plates to facilitate the removal of the body, if thats ever required in the future....but not by me😁. Then i marked and drilled the outer inside cill panel for plug welds that will secure it to the inner heater channel.
Thats me done for today. Next Monday its getting the correct mask, and welding in this channel. After that its move on down the drivers side to the rear bumper mounts, and replacing any rusty metal on the way there. Progress might pick up a bit now, as the panels are less trickier,.....I hope.
Here you can see the bolts copper greased to preserve them. Once all the plug welding is done ,, I will be able to deal with the preservation of the inside of the heater channel.
Problem with the rotation again, but I cant seem to fix it.😁
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I managed to weld in the inner heat channel section, as well as the heater duct and location tabs for the duct as well
Door post B fixing point after welding in , just needs to be ground down. Spatter was not too bad considering it was galvanised metal. And the x on the tube shows the location of the tab to be welded in to hold the tube in position.
The tube end that goes into the door post A shows a better view of the tab indent so that it does not build up to too many thicknesses over all.
Here are the spot welds towards the rear of the car heater channel end. On inspection inside the car they appear to have good penetration into the inner metal panel.
Here is the inner panel behind the drivers seat on the floor. You can see the heater duct tube, and above the box formed heater channel you can see the top section of the old heater channel that will be welded to the top of the new one.
Here you can see the 3 tabs spotted onto the top of the heater duct tube and welded into the indents on the inner channel section, to minimize the build up of thicknesses.
And here you can see the plug welds at the rear end of the heater channel which will also be welded on the top face of the top of the box section behind the drivers seat.
Plan tomorrow is to finish welding in the inner channel section, plug weld on the inner/out cill section as well as the 90 degree piece, and then finally the outer cill.But I suspect that the gas will run out before then.
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I maged to get the secondary external cill welded in , until I finally ran out of gas when I was welding in the outer cill. So I will have to go for a bottle of gas tomorrow, and finish of the cill welding. I also fabbed an endcap to the cill at the A post, and I need to finish of the rear end of the outer cill section under the rear wing.
Here we have the secondary cill that covers the heater tube, plug welded in and given a coat of weld primer so that the external cill can be welded onto it.
Here is the external cill primed and painted with hammerite oxide internally to protect it, and drilled for the plug welds.
And here is the outer cill partially welded in before i ran out of gas.
And here is the partially fabbed endpiece that runs down to a taper at the end of the heater channel section, and is covered by the rear wing. Thats it until I gas up again and finish what I have so far.
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