Bathroom Renovation

James 007

Wall 1 - Will be fully tiled floor to ceiling
Wall 2,3 - Will be putting back in wood panelling, same height as before, paint above
Wall 4 - At shower area, tiled floor to ceiling, wood panelling to the left hand side of the door, as is already, paint above

Hope the above makes sense. I plan to put the magnesium board directly onto Wall 1 & part Wall 3 at shower area only, once all bonding has been put in to smooth out the surfaces.

For the floor, I have already put 6mm plywood under the shower tray at floor level its about 1200 long by 800mm so extends beyond the shower tray foot print. I plan to replicate on all the floor before tiling. I am using 20mm screws at approx. 100mm c/c both directions & laying the longer side opposite the floor boards & having them staggered too. Once done I plan to just finish with any tanking left but I suspect I will use a good bit in the shower area. After this I will lay over with the tiles.

James 007

Attached photo shows the 6mm marine plywood to the floor surface.

To enter my shower, one needs to enter the shorter side, as I didn't want to have a step on the long side as it interferes with someones pathway as they enter the bathroom area. In hindsight perhaps I should of got a 1500mm tray & the step would be further away however this would of covered up the view to the bathtub & hence why I went against it.

I am putting in a raised area demonstrated in photo 2 & 3, its stepped back about 8 inches from the shower edge. It will be approx. 500mm square. The height is yet to be decided, either I will run with the height showing in the photo, just to the underside of where the shower commences, therefore the small step into the shower will be compensated with one of these cut to suit.

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/hyllen-floor-decking-acacia-20419935/

The alternative too is to bring it exactly level with the top of the shower base, eliminating the need for the floor deck.

In both cases the step-in will be tiled with the same floor tiles.

2011

My thoughts:

1) Why have a raised area at all? Is this to get a fall on the shower waste?

2) Test the shower waste to ensure that the fall is sufficient.

3) I would worry about the floor tiles without a thicker plywood providing additional support (at least ¾"). 6mm is very flexible and the floorboards don't look that solid from the photo (I could be wrong). Remember even the slightest give on any surface that is going to be tiled will result in cracked tiles. This would also reduce the step tot eh raised area.

4) Is the shower, toilet, sink or bath on an outside wall? Or is an existing waste being reused?

5) Consider 6mm cement board on the floor. This would be cheap and quick to install.

6) Motorised Vellux?

James 007

2011 wrote: »

My thoughts:

1) Why have a raised area at all? Is this to get a fall on the shower waste?

2) Test the shower waste to ensure that the fall is sufficient.

3) I would worry about the floor tiles without a thicker plywood providing additional support (at least ¾"). 6mm is very flexible and the floorboards don't look that solid from the photo (I could be wrong). Remember even the slightest give on any surface that is going to be tiled will result in cracked tiles. This would also reduce the step tot eh raised area.

4) Is the shower, toilet, sink or bath on an outside wall? Or is an existing waste being reused?

5) Consider 6mm cement board on the floor. This would be cheap and quick to install.

6) Motorised Vellux?

1) Yes, the waste is above floor level as it runs at 90 degrees to the floor joists, hence why its above floor level

2) I have tested the shower waste & it works fine. I have limited gradient to play with, but it does flow out into the soil & vent pipe fine. My 2 inch wastes are not sealed fully with Mr Griffon, as I plan to temporarily lift them when working on the walls etc.

3)The floor boards are fairly solid, they are 20mm thick & a sheet of ply is an extra 6mm giving a total thickness of 26mm. I'll have to think about using cement board. I originally planned to put it down but the building merchants didn't have any in stock at the time.

4) The toilet will be on the extreme right hand side of Wall 2 using the existing soil & vent outlet at this location. Sinks & bath will probably connect into the 2 inch waste that feeds out from the wall, same waste as the shower.

5) As above

6) Motorised velux or just centre pivot. The velux is reachable from floor level & a rod mechanism should be ok to open & close it, but I will think about the electrical option. I suppose just concerned about if it failed.

Thanks 2011, appreciate all the feedback

2011

Fair enough. Sounds good. Please keep posting photos. Good luck!

James 007

All I was looking to have a 0.66m x 1.4m velux window installed on the 22.5 degree slated lean to roof in the bathroom to let in a bit more light however I have now found that the roof has no felt at all.

Note that the roof as it stands does not leak at present. I know the felt acts as a wind barrier but it is also a second line of defence against the rainwater.

Am I now best not touching this roof & abandoning the plan to install a velux window, any thoughts or has anyone done it before:(

James 007

Progress is slow this week due to work commitments. Marking out light locations & completing the chasing for the electrical cables. Client has requested the installation of a velux window so I need to strip back the ceiling today.

2011

Normally chases for electrical cables are vertical. There are a number of reasons for this, one is so that at a future date cables locations can be predicted with reasonable certainty (directly above or below a wall light, switch, socket etc.). When vertical chases are not possible (for more than a few inches) the regulations state that the cabling be provided with a high degree of mechanical protection (such as a steel conduit). This to mitigate the risk of someone drilling through the cable. Vertical chases generally reduce the amount of chasing required too, although it often means more cable routing required above the ceiling. It is tough laborious work, I tended to use a grinder and finish with a kango. The dust was horrific but I could get all of the chasing completed rapidly.

James 007

Yes, I know & I had planned to put in the metal conduit for these runs, however am now thinking of just doing some small vertical drops to the light switches & running the cables through the rafters (since I am now planning to take these down to fit the velux window) to one single point with a vertical drop just over the hinge side of the door, its probably safer in the long run & avoids the horizontal runs.

I suppose I really should of made that velux window decision a bit sooner:rolleyes:

2011

James 007 wrote: »

am now thinking of just doing some small vertical drops to the light switches & running the cables through the rafters (since I am now planning to take these down to fit the velux window) to one single point with a vertical drop just over the hinge side of the door, its probably safer in the long run & avoids the horizontal runs.

Good call, I think that would be best.

James 007

Done, chasing complete & roof stripped. Now to get a velux in within the next few weeks. Window wall needs to be levelled out a bit so some boring work to follow.

James 007

Having posted here for awhile, looking for quotes to install a velux window & its proving a lot harder to find someone at short notice & at a decent price, any recommendations welcome.

I have had the highest quote come in at close to 3K & thats just to supply & install velux window 550 x 1180 centre pivot, flashing & cut slate to suit. All the ceiling panelling is removed & the rafters are exposed from the inside. There is only a requirement to cut one middle rafter & provide based trims.

I think I'm been short changed here. :rolleyes: