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Road Bike recommendations - budget c.€1,200

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    #122
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,457 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    how can the top cover come off? trying to picture my bikes, and the last part of the derailleur in contact with the cable is the clamp, is it not? why would there be part of the derailleur attached beyond the clamp?
    i had guessed it was simply a tab to allow you a firm grip on the cable before final tightening of the clamp.


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    #123
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    velo.2010 wrote: »
    DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.

    in this Video at 6:10 and 11:50he put this plastic tab in to a screw which is facing up. in my case this screw is facing the side opposite to the chain. its strange as he is working on 105 R7000.


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    #124
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Thanks for your help lads. At least I made some progress. Perhaps I'll have someone to look at the derailleur alignment. I'm sure its nothing major and only needs a small bit of tweaking. I have put the saddle and paddles on, pumped it up I'll go out for ride tomorrow and see how the shifting etc go.


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    #125
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    bbari wrote: »
    in this Video at 6:10 and 11:50he put this plastic tab in to a screw which is facing up. in my case this screw is facing the side opposite to the chain. its strange as he is working on 105 R7000.

    That's because its shifted up on the big ring?

    Also if you shifted up on to the big ring you can use the orange sticker as reference to see if you're derailleur is aligned to the correct height, there should be drawing of chainring teeth on it and should match the height of the chainring teeth.


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    #126
    flatface
    Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    velo.2010 wrote: »
    DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.

    I was just about to post this too! This part is important, take your time on the set up. Its a shame it arrived not perfectly set-up, my Canyon was very neat.

    I would recommend taking a look at the Shimano manuals as well as the videos on youtube. They really help with the specifics of your model 105 which can differ from the videos sometimes.

    page 15 of this shows the cover and how to fit.
    https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

    It also details the steps on the front derailleur alignment. and their are manuals for the brakes and rear derailleur too.


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    #127
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Thanks for that. I'll have a read when i get home this eve. I think this plastic tab is to keep the cable end in place and doesn't effect mechanically.

    There is a plastic bit inside the derailleur which touches the chain, it only needs to be moved by 1mm i think.

    I'm sure everyone got their canyon perfect out of the box. Just unfortunate in my case. Ahh there is a lot worse going on in this world at the moment and this is minor in comparison.

    Its assembled now, i guess its OK to cycle even with chain touching a bit.

    20200702-100537.jpg


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    #128
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    Just give the left shifter half a click when pedaling to see if that stops the chain rubbing.


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    #129
    dinneenp
    Registered Users Posts: 8,108 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    bbari wrote: »
    Thanks for that. I'll have a read when i get home this eve. I think this plastic tab is to keep the cable end in place and doesn't effect mechanically.

    There is a plastic bit inside the derailleur which touches the chain, it only needs to be moved by 1mm i think.

    I'm sure everyone got their canyon perfect out of the box. Just unfortunate in my case. Ahh there is a lot worse going on in this world at the moment and this is minor in comparison.

    Its assembled now, i guess its OK to cycle even with chain touching a bit.

    20200702-100537.jpg

    Mine should be in the post atm. Did you receive an email once it was shipped & how long did it take?
    Cheers,
    Pa


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    #130
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Tony04 wrote:
    That's because its shifted up on the big ring?
    Yes, that's what it was.
    flatface wrote:
    page 15 of this shows the cover and how to fit.

    Thanks for that. That's gone back in place now.
    flatface wrote:
    It also details the steps on the front derailleur alignment.

    That's next and hopefully last bit.

    I'm getting there!


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    #131
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    dinneenp wrote:
    Mine should be in the post atm. Did you receive an email with tracking number & was it shipped from UK or Germany? Cheers, Pa

    Yes. Received email with ups tracking numbers. You can see the status in your canyon account. Shipped from Germany on Friday and delivered on Wed.


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    #132
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Deleted User wrote: »
    Just give the left shifter half a click when pedaling to see if that stops the chain rubbing.

    No - that didn't help. However, by adjusting the H screw I can see the derailleur moving in/out. It seems that it will either be touch the derailleur when on the larger ring or touching when on smaller.

    I went out for 1st ride yesterday. When the chain is on the large ring on the front and 4th/5th on the rear, chain make jerks and makes some noise. Its like its trying to get on the chain and not been able to but it is on it. It doesn't do that when on the 1st 3 small rings. I have to admit that I don't know what I'm doing!


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    #133
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,880 ✭✭✭cletus


    bbari wrote: »
    No - that didn't help. However, by adjusting the H screw I can see the derailleur moving in/out. It seems that it will either be touch the derailleur when on the larger ring or touching when on smaller.

    I went out for 1st ride yesterday. When the chain is on the large ring on the front and 4th/5th on the rear, chain make jerks and makes some noise. Its like its trying to get on the chain and not been able to but it is on it. It doesn't do that when on the 1st 3 small rings. I have to admit that I don't know what I'm doing!

    Essentially, the H and L screws set the outer and inner limit of movement for the derailleur. Once they are set, you shouldn't need to move them again.

    The next thing would be indexing the gears. Simply put, this is lining up the appropriate movement at the derailleur with each click of your gear shifter, giving you a distinct gear for each click.

    If it was me, I'd look at the park tools video, and establish your H and L limits, and go through the indexing completely.

    As it is, you trying little bits of things, to see will any of them work, and it seems unlikely that you'll just happen to hit the right setting.

    The derailleur should not be touching the chain regardless of which ring your on


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    #134
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Yeh as above you only have to set your limit screws once if you just randomly mess with them you're just creating more problems.

    Once that is done you'll need to index your derailleur as everything is new here this can be probably just be done by the barrel adjuster it will probably be on your cable in front of the headtube.

    If you problems shifting up in the the bigger sprockets on the back, that's because theres not enough tension in the cable do to so most likely so if you screw the barrel adjuster anti clockwise this will add tension by effectively shortening the cable.
    Yeh and +1 for the park tool videos and also they have a video on how the derailleur works which is worth watching.


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    #135
    dinneenp
    Registered Users Posts: 8,108 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
    If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.


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    #136
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    dinneenp wrote: »
    Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
    If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.


    Agreed, I been to LBS earlier and he told me the disadvantage of buying online! God i didn't know that! I wasn't looking for any help/ favour, i was there to buy his services. He said its only a 10 minutes job but he can't do it for another 10 days. Perhaps its OK now but i don't have confidence in it. I want a pro to look at it to ensure its all good. Paying €10/€20 isn't a problem.

    PS: the reason i and you bought online because bikes were/ are new toilet papers.


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    #137
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,880 ✭✭✭cletus


    dinneenp wrote: »
    Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
    If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.

    Your not going to damage your bike indexing the derailleur, and it's good to understand how the components on the bike work, it makes you more mechanically sympathetic


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    #138
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    Shops are always going to prioritise customers who also buy goods from them.
    There are some mobile bike mechanics who only service bikes, you could search for one in your area.


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    #139
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,880 ✭✭✭cletus


    bbari wrote: »
    Agreed, I been to LBS earlier and he told me the disadvantage of buying online! God i didn't know that! I wasn't looking for any help/ favour, i was there to buy his services. He said its only a 10 minutes job but he can't do it for another 10 days. Perhaps its OK now but i don't have confidence in it. I want a pro to look at it to ensure its all good. Paying €10/€20 isn't a problem.

    PS: the reason i and you bought online because bikes were/ are new toilet papers.


    There's probably a 10 day wait for any new customer walking in the door, regardless of buying the bike online, for the same reason that bikes are the new toilet paper.

    If you brought along a bike you had in the shed for 10 years, you'd be told the same thing.

    Yes, if you bought the bike there, or if you were a regular customer for smaller bits/services etc, he probably would have squeezed you in, because it's a small job, but that's less to do with where you bought the bike, and more to do with bike shops being out the door busy.

    Which is all to say, all the more reason to be able to work on your own bike :D


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    #140
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    cletus wrote: »
    There's probably a 10 day wait for any new customer walking in the door, regardless of buying the bike online, for the same reason that bikes are the new toilet paper.

    If you brought along a bike you had in the shed for 10 years, you'd be told the same thing.

    Yes, if you bought the bike there, or if you were a regular customer for smaller bits/services etc, he probably would have squeezed you in, because it's a small job, but that's less to do with where you bought the bike, and more to do with bike shops being out the door busy.

    Which is all to say, all the more reason to be able to work on your own bike :D

    I agree with everything you said. I am all up for learning how to do things and in fact I'd love to. Canyon has offered to reimburse up to €30 and having it looked at by pro so i thought why not. Atl east I'll be confident that the job is done right with no cost. I did learn and fixed my breaks at least :)


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