Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Road Bike recommendations - budget c.€1,200

Options
124

Comments

  • Options
    #92
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Noticed the rose pro https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-pro-sl-105-2690657 is back in stock probably the best bike at this price point.


  • Options
    #93
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    Is the Rose sizing similar to Canyon ?


  • Options
    #94
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Tony04 wrote: »
    Noticed the rose pro https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-pro-sl-105-2690657 is back in stock probably the best bike at this price point.
    I got excited when I saw your post, thought I'll cancel my Canyon and order this but same as Canyon, Rose delivery is 8 weeks away also :mad:


  • Options
    #95
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    That's nice. Good parts, 105 then ritchey for most other parts and the dt swiss wheels are ok. You're never going to get great wheels at that price point.

    Shame about delivery. You would think they would have entry level bikes ready for this time of year as there are always a lot of people looking to take up the sport.


  • Options
    #96
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    bbari wrote: »
    I got excited when I saw your post, thought I'll cancel my Canyon and order this but same as Canyon, Rose delivery is 8 weeks away also :mad:

    Acctually 7 according to the ie site https://www.rosebikes.ie/rose-pro-sl-105-2690657?product_shape=matt+silvergrey&article_size=53cm-28 still crazy how bad shipping is atm.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #97
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    [Deleted User] wrote: »
    Is the Rose sizing similar to Canyon ?

    You can check sizing once you have selected size in geometry it seems


  • Options
    #98
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    Shame they don't have a table with the sizing numbers. The important numbers like reach and stack are there on the diagram it's just not as easy read.


  • Options
    #99
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    shaveAbullock wrote: »
    Shame they don't have a table with the sizing numbers. The important numbers like reach and stack are there on the diagram it's just not as easy read.

    Agreed, was trying to buy a Canyon for a family member recently and I know there is a site you can compare sizing between brands and models and years but just screams I need to throw my leg over one first when it recommends you should get a 48cm frame for an averaged size man. Visually at least I don't see why the difference is 2-3cm between them and almost every other brand.


  • Options
    #100
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    [Deleted User] wrote: »
    just screams I need to throw my leg over one first when it recommends you should get a 48cm frame for an averaged size man.
    48cm on a road bike? that's very small for an averaged size man maybe 52cm-54cm is average. roadbike-sizechart-1535058871.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=480:*


  • Options
    #101
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    Tony04 wrote: »
    48cm on a road bike? that's very small for an averaged size man maybe 52cm-54cm is average. roadbike-sizechart-1535058871.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=480:*

    But the point is rose uses very odd sizing. Combined with very poor geometry diagrams.
    I'd normally be M/L or 56cm but I'm 59cm in the sizing rose uses.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #102
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    The bike arrived this morning and I thought the wait was over! Just after doing the quick assembly and realised it has a couple of issues,

    1 - when the brake levers are closed (105 R7000) the wheels don't flow freely. This goes for both front and the rear. Wheel on the rear is like the brake is applied.
    2- Chain on the front is touching the front derailleur, is it supposed to be touching it?
    3-End of the cable for the front derailleur has some plastic fixing to it, not sure where its supposed to be attached. its just lose at the end.

    The box wasn't damaged so I don't think this has happened on the way.

    I would hate to send it back to Canyon as i got it after 10 weeks. is this something i can fix myself?

    I didn't put the seat post or didn't fill air in the tyres, I doubt any of the above issues are to do with that.

    Please help!


  • Options
    #103
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    bbari wrote: »
    The bike arrived this morning and I thought the wait was over! Just after doing the quick assembly and realised it has a couple of issues,

    1 - when the brake levers are closed (105 R7000) the wheels don't flow freely. This goes for both front and the rear. Wheel on the rear is like the brake is applied.
    2- Chain on the front is touching the front derailleur, is it supposed to be touching it?
    3-End of the cable for the front derailleur has some plastic fixing to it, not sure where its supposed to be attached. its just lose at the end.

    The box wasn't damaged so I don't think this has happened on the way.

    I would hate to send it back to Canyon as i got it after 10 weeks. is this something i can fix myself?

    I didn't put the seat post or didn't fill air in the tyres, I doubt any of the above issues are to do with that.

    Please help!

    Take a picture of the the plastic thing on the end of the cable.

    When you say brake levers are closed, do you mean when you're not pulling them? Is it discs or pads?

    Chain touching the derailleur is usually an alignment issue, easily enough sorted out.

    Pictures of the brakes at the wheel might help too


  • Options
    #104
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    1 When you mean closed to you mean the brakes are locked on the wheel, the cable just needs a little less tension and that should be fine.
    2 put your seatpost in, put your bike in a stand or upside down, shift in between each gear and see if it misses any. Or if the chain rubs on the big chainring small sprocket small chainring high sprocket. If you troubleshoot a bit more its sortable
    3. Picture maybe


  • Options
    #105
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Thanks lads.

    Here is picture with plastic fixing (not fixed any where).

    Lose-Cable.jpg

    There is little lever as highlighted, when i put it down its like brake is applied. I hope I'm not being dumb and its not suppose to be put down?

    Brake.jpg


    How can align the chain touching the front derailleur?

    Little pulley on the rear derailleur is scratched. Perhaps its to do with alignment also? You can see silver under the black paint in 3rd pic.
    2.jpg


    I lift the rear tyre and turned the cranks (didn't put paddles yet), shifted gears which seem ok.


  • Options
    #106
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    No idea what the plastic tab is for, I'd take it off.

    On your brakes, that a quick release lever to let you take the wheel off easily, it shouldn't make the brake pads make contact. Make sure the wheel is seated properly, and if so, you may have to adjust the brake pads to give clearance for the rim

    Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift.

    I wouldn't be too concerned about the scratches at the back, other than cosmetically.

    I'd imagine these are all things the lbs would do if you were buying from them, but getting it delivered directly, you need to do yourself

    *edit* remove the red plastic holding the front derailleur in place, I'd imagine for shipping purposes


  • Options
    #107
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    cletus wrote: »
    I'd imagine these are all things the lbs would do if you were buying from them, but getting it delivered directly, you need to do yourself

    *edit* remove the red plastic holding the front derailleur in place, I'd imagine for shipping purposes

    It's fun like I mean I would rather build my bike out of the box than my lbs unless I'm stuck for time, annoying how some warranties are voided if you do that.
    The red plastic hooding is acctually shimano packaging and tells you if you derailleur is clamped on the correct height so I would double check before putting that on

    In regards to the op scratches there are completely normal but check if on the high jockey is touching the rear sprocket.

    Here's a video for adjusting rim brakes https://youtu.be/VO77mbB8w7I


  • Options
    #108
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    Tony04 wrote: »
    It's fun like I mean I would rather build my bike out of the box than my lbs unless I'm stuck for time, annoying how some warranties are voided if you do that.
    The red plastic hooding is acctually shimano packaging and tells you if you derailleur is clamped on the correct height so I would double check before putting that on

    In regards to the op scratches there are completely normal but check if on the high jockey is touching the rear sprocket.

    Here's a video for adjusting rim brakes https://youtu.be/VO77mbB8w7I

    I would too, but even among some of the long time serious cyclists here on boards, that would put us in the minority, it would seem, let alone first time buyer of a bike, and a nice one at that


  • Options
    #109
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.
    How to align the front derailleur? it needs to pushed away fromt the bike.

    The little sticker on the front derailleur, I'd that on my 6 yrs old bike til i sold!

    I did this but it didn't help. "Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift."


  • Options
    #110
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    Below is the Park Tools video for adjusting the front derailleur

    https://youtu.be/ZNG7g83lI-s


  • Options
    #111
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    cletus wrote: »
    I would too, but even among some of the long time serious cyclists here on boards, that would put us in the minority, it would seem, let alone first time buyer of a bike, and a nice one at that

    Nah I mean the reason online sales took off is because putting at least extra 10% on the price to build a bike up in a bike shop is just not worth, like ideally you go to a bike shop and try before your buy.

    Like I mean assembling a bike is as easy if not easie as an IKEA flat pack, like a lot of young lads on work experience build bikes up in bike shops. Ok you need a torque wrench for carbon but alot can be done with just a hex key. And adjustments arent that hard once you figure out what's going on, and if you do struggle a google will solve your problem.

    The only reason to go to a bike shop is if time is money for you or if you need a niche expensive tool, but like to be fair alot of parts manufacturers like shimano make their parts serviceable with the least amount of specialist tools possible


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #112
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,575 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    bbari wrote: »
    Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.
    you mean you've rotated the lever so the brakes open slightly? the lever should be rotated counter-clockwise so the point is basically pointing towards the tyre, i.e. pulling the pads closer to the rim.

    the function of this is that the brake pads would generally be too close together to allow you to take the wheel off if the tyre is inflated - as the tyre is wider than the rim, the gap between the pads would typically be narrower than the tyre. so you open up the brakes slightly by opening up that lever if you want to take the wheel off, and close the lever again when the wheel is mounted back on the bike.

    if the pads are rubbing when this lever is closed, my guess is that it's rubbing on one side only; this could be caused by two things, the first and most obvious is that the wheel isn't sitting perfectly true in the dropouts (the slots at the end of the fork the axle sits into). easiest test is to loosen the quick release for the front wheel and let the bike's own weight settle the wheel into the dropouts to straighten it, and tighten the quick release back up again.
    if it's not that, the whole brake caliper may have rotated slightly on the bolt that holds it to the fork.


  • Options
    #113
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    bbari wrote: »
    Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.
    How to align the front derailleur? it needs to pushed away fromt the bike.

    The little sticker on the front derailleur, I'd that on my 6 yrs old bike til i sold!

    I did this but it didn't help. "Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift."

    What's your problem exactly?

    Also now your wheels are running freely move them sided to side for lateral play shouldn't be any, make sure your qr is tight.

    Spin them and eye them relative to the brake pads to check for any buckle


  • Options
    #114
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    cletus wrote: »
    Below is the Park Tools video for adjusting the front derailleur

    https://youtu.be/ZNG7g83lI-s

    There's a lot in that but if it was setup correctly in the factory it may just be a matter of adjusting the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur.

    Unlucky to get all these issues, my Canyon was perfect our of the box but it does not look like anything too difficult.


  • Options
    #115
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    shaveAbullock wrote: »
    There's a lot in that but if it was setup correctly in the factory it may just be a matter of adjusting the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur.

    Unlucky to get all these issues, my Canyon was perfect our of the box but it does not look like anything too difficult.

    There is, but at least you end up with a good grasp of how the front derailleur works, and what it does


  • Options
    #116
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

    The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).


  • Options
    #117
    bbari
    Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    if it's not that, the whole brake caliper may have rotated slightly on the bolt that holds it to the fork.
    Yes - this is what i did to fix.


  • Options
    #118
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,894 ✭✭✭cletus


    bbari wrote: »
    Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

    The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

    I thought he dealt with a couple of different derailleur types.

    You could go through the entire process on the video, or as said above, you could try adjusting the tension on the cable with the adjuster barrell, see can you get the cage of the derailleur to move off the chain


  • Options
    #119
    shaveAbullock
    Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭shaveAbullock


    bbari wrote: »
    Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

    The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

    it's normal to be able to move the brakes with a little bit of force, it should be loose enoungh to make adjustments.

    Can you move the front derailleur away from the chain with your hand?
    If the spring does not move then you will need to advust limit screws.
    Once you can move it find the in line barrel adjustor for the cable and tighten it a little while holding the deraillier away from the chain.


  • Options
    #120
    Tony04
    Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    bbari wrote: »
    Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

    The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

    Alright make sure the bolt is tight.

    With the front derailleur shift it into big ring/ small sprocket. Then pull the front derailleur cable to add tension to it, if the chain still rubs your h limit screw needs adjustment if not your barrel adjuster needs adjustment. Edit: make sure you do this before making adjustments.

    H limit screw basically blocks derailleur from how much away from the bike it can go or how high a large ring it can go, screwing it clockwise basically means it blocks the derailleur from shifting out however much. Turn it in to much and you'll get rub, out to much and your chain will come off.

    Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise feeds out cable effectively lengthening it and slacking the tension, counterclockwise shortens the cable and adds tension. A derailleur works by using pivot screws which are adjusted and held in place by cable tension.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #121
    velo.2010
    Registered Users Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.


Advertisement