Everest

Obvious Desperate Breakfasts

nc6000 wrote: »

If say that was an awkward reunion.

If I recall rightly, they’re no longer in touch.

SeaFields

Obvious Desperate Breakfasts wrote: »

If I recall rightly, they’re no longer in touch.

I'd have to reread it but I'm sure Simpson has said he would have done the same. At the time it was a scenario where both die or one dies.

RasTa

Obvious Desperate Breakfasts wrote: »

If I recall rightly, they’re no longer in touch.

nc6000 wrote: »

If say that was an awkward reunion.

SeaFields wrote: »

I'd have to reread it but I'm sure Simpson has said he would have done the same. At the time it was a scenario where both die or one dies.

Well he did meet him at the bottom of the mountain when he crawled back.

The movie is great

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4LD9vQ3Fjs

Obvious Desperate Breakfasts

SeaFields wrote: »

I'd have to reread it but I'm sure Simpson has said he would have done the same. At the time it was a scenario where both die or one dies.

Yeah, I don’t think there’s much ill-feeling there but I can understand the friendship not surviving afterwards all the same.

Capt'n Midnight

tuxy wrote: »

Annapurna is even more dangerous again but I don't know much about it all I know is avalanches are very frequent on that mountain.

I read the book about the 1950 French Expedition, they were heroes and masochists.

More on it here Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak
tl;dr version Herzog lost all his toes and fingers to frostbite. Lachenal an experienced Alpine guide lost all his toes, took two years to recover and died three years after that from a fall that my have been a side affect of his reduced mobility.

The amputations were public, painful and foul smelling.

Esel

I posted this earlier when the thread was flying along.

For an insight into how tough it can be above the South Col, this book is a great read, and a very good alternative view of the tragedy compared to Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air.

The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest [Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt]

https://www.amazon.com/Climb-Tragic-Ambitions-Everest/dp/0312206372

Atlantic Dawn

It's pervasive, rich people (or generally bankrolled sponsored to make the person climbing feel good) contracting ultra poor people to assist them climbing a death ridden mountain, it's a bloody disgrace any charity bankrolling from this thrash should be disbanded, utter utter madness.

gogo

The Rape of Lucretia wrote: »

Its a strange fascination. The odds of not getting down alive are 1 in 27. The very high risk is what drives the desire to try to defy it. Sad for those close to the person who draws the short straw, but they know the risks very well.

It’s a weird thing alright, I love books/movies on climbing, I’ve read nearly all of the ones mentioned here, people can’t get enough of it. It’s has some weird draw on people. I get so excited when I see some new article on Everest, I’ve subscribed to nat geo because they advertised a feature in it. It’s a common thing, there are over 2000 posts on this thread alone.. I’d love to know why people including myself are so drawn to Everest.. bearing in mind some days I’d struggle up the hill to the local centra..

It’s an unusual attraction, and while I’d never have either the money or the fitness to do it, if it was offered to me... I be hard pushed to say no, even if I got to the first base camp, I’d go!

unkel

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

It's pervasive, rich people (or generally bankrolled sponsored to make the person climbing feel good) contracting ultra poor people to assist them climbing a death ridden mountain, it's a bloody disgrace any charity bankrolling from this thrash should be disbanded, utter utter madness.

That's it. Any invalid with USD100k will be carried up Everest with the rest of the midlife crisis selfish bucket list idiots, most of them raising nothing for charity amd only doing it for the buzz for themselves.

josip

Capt'n Midnight wrote: »

I read the book about the 1950 French Expedition, they were heroes and masochists.

More on it here Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak
tl;dr version Herzog lost all his toes and fingers to frostbite. Lachenal an experienced Alpine guide lost all his toes, took two years to recover and died three years after that from a fall that my have been a side affect of his reduced mobility.

The amputations were public, painful and foul smelling.

Which reminds me to recommend "The Ascent of Rum Doodle".
Porters beyond praise...

Fotish

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-48499548
Bad news from the Himalayas.

Capt'n Midnight

Fotish wrote: »

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-48499548

This sums up the difficulties faced at these altitudes

"Even if we airdrop someone, he will need at least six to eight days to acclimatise before he can undertake any rescue mission," Vivek Kumar Pandey, a spokesperson for the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, told AFP.

Crusty Jocks

Fotish wrote: »

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-48499548
Bad news from the Himalayas.

Best possible news in fairness. They’ve been dead for a week. Some closure for families and some faint chance of retrieving the bodies.

recedite

You'd think if it was at an altitude helicopters can fly at, then they could winch the bodies on board without landing (like the coastguard do).
Maybe they are using a lighter type of helicopter though, for scouting the area.

Those coastguard Sikorskys are very heavy.

tuxy

Jet planes can breath at very high altitude because they have so much forward momentum to suck in air.
There is a difference between how high a helicopter can fly while moving forward and how high they can hover at.

Obvious Desperate Breakfasts

gogo wrote: »

It’s a weird thing alright, I love books/movies on climbing, I’ve read nearly all of the ones mentioned here, people can’t get enough of it. It’s has some weird draw on people. I get so excited when I see some new article on Everest, I’ve subscribed to nat geo because they advertised a feature in it. It’s a common thing, there are over 2000 posts on this thread alone.. I’d love to know why people including myself are so drawn to Everest.. bearing in mind some days I’d struggle up the hill to the local centra..

It’s an unusual attraction, and while I’d never have either the money or the fitness to do it, if it was offered to me... I be hard pushed to say no, even if I got to the first base camp, I’d go!

I’m fascinated by it too but, god, I’d have no interest in climbing it. I don’t know why but it’s just a big “NOPE!” for me. Well, I don’t really like camping so there’s that. I also don’t like being cold. And it just seems like a lot of hassle. The reward doesn’t seem worth the risks. Though one cool thing I heard from one summiter was that they could just about see the curvature of the earth from the top. That’s pretty cool. As is the perfect triangle reflection the mountain leaves on other nearby mountains as the sun rises. But those things are not worth the hassle and risks to me. And I definitely wouldn’t care about bragging rights so that’s not even a draw for me.

Wailin

I'd recommend "The Summit" for those interested in mountaineering and the himalayas. Great documentary on the K2 disaster in 2008 where 8 climbers perished, including Ger McDonnell, an Irish lad. Produced by Pat Falvey who mentions Ger a few times in his book "Accidental Rebel". Some spectacular cinematography and you get a glimpse into how tough it is on the human body. K2 is a completely different mountain to Everest, much more technical and dangerous.

recedite

tuxy wrote: »

Jet planes can breath at very high altitude because they have so much forward momentum to suck in air.
There is a difference between how high a helicopter can fly while moving forward and how high they can hover at.

Could they not fit a turbo charger? With all that foreign cash floating around, you'd think some technical fix would be possible, if it was just a matter of getting oxygen to the engine.
I suspect its more to do with a lack of lifting power in the thin air. Winching capability would require a winchman or two, plus the winch, plus the retrieved body. All extra weight in the thin air.

Wailin

Bit more science to it than just adding a turbocharger:D

tuxy

recedite wrote: »

Could they not fit a turbo charger? With all that foreign cash floating around, you'd think some technical fix would be possible, if it was just a matter of getting oxygen to the engine.
I suspect its more to do with a lack of lifting power in the thin air. Winching capability would require a winchman or two, plus the winch, plus the retrieved body. All extra weight in the thin air.

The helicopter has a turbine engine which in a way acts like a large turbo charger highly compressing the air. You could think of it as having loads of turbo chargers but all internal.
When a helicopter stops moving forward there is a massive reduction in how much air it can intake at that altitude and very high probability of the engine stalling if it attempts to hover.
You're right though it has been done before in extremely light helicopters but not while having the extra weight of crew and equipment needed for a rescue.

pc7

http://www.arabnews.pk/node/1505131/pakistan?fbclid=IwAR2RZNwcmpwlSj11tHf4rXt9S9jasX2AU16roZhFOILUeU7PqUBQqNNhpZ0

Father should be shot with a ball of his own ****e, fecking ejit.

Man Vs ManUre

Wailin wrote: »

I'd recommend "The Summit" for those interested in mountaineering and the himalayas. Great documentary on the K2 disaster in 2008 where 8 climbers perished, including Ger McDonnell, an Irish lad. Produced by Pat Falvey who mentions Ger a few times in his book "Accidental Rebel". Some spectacular cinematography and you get a glimpse into how tough it is on the human body. K2 is a completely different mountain to Everest, much more technical and dangerous.

Touching the Void is another fantastic documentary film about the perils of mountaineering.

recedite

pc7 wrote: »

http://www.arabnews.pk/node/1505131/pakistan?fbclid=IwAR2RZNwcmpwlSj11tHf4rXt9S9jasX2AU16roZhFOILUeU7PqUBQqNNhpZ0

Father should be shot with a ball of his own ****e, fecking ejit.

It’s dangerous, there is no doubt about it. It requires absolutely no chance of a single mistake, but we are taking extra precautionary measures,” Khawaja said, adding that it would be a “fascinating experience for a father and daughter to scale Everest together.

He is 60. He hasn't got time to wait for her to grow up. There's a significant chance that they will both die. The best candidate for an ascent is probably the child's mother, who is probably half the fathers age, but she is left at home.

Wailin

Saw it and read the book, very good. Read a few of simpsons books actually.

pc7

recedite wrote: »

He is 60. He hasn't got time to wait for her to grow up. There's a significant chance that they will both die. The best candidate for an ascent is probably the child's mother, who is probably half the fathers age, but she is left at home.

Hopefully they don't get a permit

blackwhite

pc7 wrote: »

http://www.arabnews.pk/node/1505131/pakistan?fbclid=IwAR2RZNwcmpwlSj11tHf4rXt9S9jasX2AU16roZhFOILUeU7PqUBQqNNhpZ0

Father should be shot with a ball of his own ****e, fecking ejit.

recedite wrote: »

He is 60. He hasn't got time to wait for her to grow up. There's a significant chance that they will both die. The best candidate for an ascent is probably the child's mother, who is probably half the fathers age, but she is left at home.

pc7 wrote: »

Hopefully they don't get a permit

I'm fairly sure I'd read somewhere that Nepal had introduced an age limit of either 16 or 18 in the last 3/4 years. Could be wrong though, and even if correct the reputation of the Nepali Govt would suggest that an exemption could be "bought"

Theboinkmaster

pc7 wrote: »

http://www.arabnews.pk/node/1505131/pakistan?fbclid=IwAR2RZNwcmpwlSj11tHf4rXt9S9jasX2AU16roZhFOILUeU7PqUBQqNNhpZ0

Father should be shot with a ball of his own ****e, fecking ejit.

There's meant to be an age restriction in both countries at 16 I think.

pc7

Theboinkmaster wrote: »

There's meant to be an age restriction in both countries at 16 I think.

Hopefully! absolute madness.

pc7

I don’t know how to link a podcast, but Off The Ball have interview up with Jason Black (has climbed Everest and K2). Great listen.

lawred2

recedite wrote: »

Could they not fit a turbo charger? With all that foreign cash floating around, you'd think some technical fix would be possible, if it was just a matter of getting oxygen to the engine.
I suspect its more to do with a lack of lifting power in the thin air. Winching capability would require a winchman or two, plus the winch, plus the retrieved body. All extra weight in the thin air.

fairly sure many helicopter engines already use turbochargers