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Tikka branded picatinny & xtr help
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04-03-2019 1:21am#1
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I don't honestly know.As attached, any further information on these rails? Worth the extra £?
I can, wherever possible, buy the known brand that i've used and trusted, but i've also found that some brands are big money simply because of the brand name. Buy anything Sako and it'll cost twice as much as the exact same part from a non Sako manufacturer. Same with Blaser, Sauer, etc.
It's like buying a Merc or BMW. You are paying for the brand as much as the car and even with cars that are 10yrs+ old you can still pay more money for the part than the car may be worth.
Now some parts obviously are not worth the money. Ebay, Wish.com, etc are places to avoid unless you know and trust the seller. Its the quality of the materials used rather than the final design which you're paying for and you won't know if the oes from Eay will hold up unde recoil until they're mounted.
The old adage of "buy once, cry once" has a bell of truth, but there are alternatives which are just as good.
The other thing to consider is the rifle ts going on. You don't need a 20moa rail and Nightforce rings for a rimfire. There is no recoil and the ring merely have to keep the scope on the rifle. Duct tape would work if you could keep is straight on rifle.
You're looking at a 223. You want good rings, but don't need anything OTT as the 223 recoil is marginal. Then with a a suppressor it's even less.
The Burris XTR rings are good. I have a set. I like the top mounting of the ring as opposed to the Warne type that tighten from the side. This is purely a convenience thing and some say the Warne is actually the better type because of the side tighten feature.Getting a few bits and pieces ready even though the licence wasn't granted yet.
Burris xtr rings I'm thinking.
Frankly most decent to good quality rings will work, but if you like your rifle to be "the biz" then i see no harm paying the extra for the Tikka branded although i wouldn't be surprised to find another company making them for Tikka but selling their own branded stuff cheaper.With the picatinny rail, 50mm objective and wanting to keep the scope low but still use flip caps, am I looking at low, medium or high rings?
To pick the rings you need to measure the height off the barrel needed.
Usually what i do is;- Take the diameter of the objective lense, in this case 50mm.
- Add 3mm for the width of the housing (twice as its circular) and 4mm for the minimum height off the barrel.
- That gives 60mm.
- Split that which gives our height from the barrel to the centre line of the scope tube. So 30mm.
- Now measure the height of the rail/base (if you have one). If not skip this part.
- Say its 7mm.
- Take the 7mm from the 30 mm leaving you with 23mm and thats the height of the rings you need.
Once you have this number you simply need to find out how the manufacturer measures their rings.
For example some measure their's from the base of the ring (the flat piece that sits on the rail/receiver) to the bottom of the curve (where the tube sits). Measurement B in the picture.
Some measure from the base of the ring to the centre of the ring diameter (centre line of the tube if you will). Measurement A in the picture.
Of course you might find some measure from the part of the ring that sits on the rail/receiver to the bottom of the curve.
Once you have the height you need and find out how the manufacturer measures their rings then you pick the right height for you from that manufacturer. Measurement C in the pictureForum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County
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Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo
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I don't honestly know.
I can, wherever possible, buy the known brand that i've used and trusted, but i've also found that some brands are big money simply because of the brand name. Buy anything Sako and it'll cost twice as much as the exact same part from a non Sako manufacturer. Same with Blaser, Sauer, etc.
It's like buying a Merc or BMW. You are paying for the brand as much as the car and even with cars that are 10yrs+ old you can still pay more money for the part than the car may be worth.
Now some parts obviously are not worth the money. Ebay, Wish.com, etc are places to avoid unless you know and trust the seller. Its the quality of the materials used rather than the final design which you're paying for and you won't know if the oes from Eay will hold up unde recoil until they're mounted.
The old adage of "buy once, cry once" has a bell of truth, but there are alternatives which are just as good.
The other thing to consider is the rifle ts going on. You don't need a 20moa rail and Nightforce rings for a rimfire. There is no recoil and the ring merely have to keep the scope on the rifle. Duct tape would work if you could keep is straight on rifle.
You're looking at a 223. You want good rings, but don't need anything OTT as the 223 recoil is marginal. Then with a a suppressor it's even less.
The Burris XTR rings are good. I have a set. I like the top mounting of the ring as opposed to the Warne type that tighten from the side. This is purely a convenience thing and some say the Warne is actually the better type because of the side tighten feature.
Frankly most decent to good quality rings will work, but if you like your rifle to be "the biz" then i see no harm paying the extra for the Tikka branded although i wouldn't be surprised to find another company making them for Tikka but selling their own branded stuff cheaper.
To pick the rings you need to measure the height off the barrel needed.
Usually what i do is;- Take the diameter of the objective lense, in this case 50mm.
- Add 3mm for the width of the housing (twice as its circular) and 4mm for the minimum height off the barrel.
- That gives 60mm.
- Split that which gives our height from the barrel to the centre line of the scope tube. So 30mm.
- Now measure the height of the rail/base (if you have one). If not skip this part.
- Say its 7mm.
- Take the 7mm from the 30 mm leaving you with 23mm and thats the height of the rings you need.
Once you have this number you simply need to find out how the manufacturer measures their rings.
For example some measure their's from the base of the ring (the flat piece that sits on the rail/receiver) to the bottom of the curve (where the tube sits). Measurement B in the picture.
Some measure from the base of the ring to the centre of the ring diameter (centre line of the tube if you will). Measurement A in the picture.
Of course you might find some measure from the part of the ring that sits on the rail/receiver to the bottom of the curve.
Once you have the height you need and find out how the manufacturer measures their rings then you pick the right height for you from that manufacturer. Measurement C in the picture
Again, huge thanks to you Cass for that very informative reply.
Really thankful and covers what I asked.
Wonder what everyone else tends to use on t3/t3x with regards to rails.
Tbh, I feel 0-moa is good enough for a foxing rig with a 20" sporting barrel and 1 in 12 twist.0 -
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