Tesla Model Y

KLF

Cheers, I see ACE have a spot in Navan that I will try. Do they have access to diagnostics etc, I’m sure they’ll be good at the bodywork but I’d also like it checked for battery / electrics etc

maybe that will involve a different trip to Tesla

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123662140#Comment_123662140

Yeah, I went to ACE. They have a location in the city centre, but maybe the one in Coolock is handier. Someone rear ended my M3 a couple months back. The car did much better than me….i'm made of glass. Bumper repair with no other damage was around €1600. They were surprised there was no additional damage behind it.

Don't bother involving Tesla.

talla

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123662467#Comment_123662467

I think Coolock & Fairview are the only authorized body repair shops for Tesla. No harm giving Navan a call in advance.I would expect Coolock & Fairview to have all diagnostic equipment.

Quick edit, yes Fairview & Coolock only approved bodyshops within 150km of Navan.

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123662467#Comment_123662467

It's only Coolock and Fairview.

Assuming you're getting the other insurance company to pay for a replacement car, make sure they cover the insurance too, as they might expect you to transfer your own insurance over. You might also get resistance from the insurer using ACE, because it's not one of their nominated garages. Point out that ACE are the only approved Tesla garages and that's who you will be using. Finally, don't let them screw you. Insist on new parts and if your car is under 3 years old, they only pay 10% depreciation calculated on the repair cost….so get all new parts.

talla

Oh and backup that dashcam footage from the Tesla cameras if it was captured automatically.

KLF

Thanks lads, you’d expect all branches to be equal but I’m from D5 so I’m familiar with those branches.

Aye, it held up pretty well considering but the bumper is shifted and the tailgate has a good bend in it. I have the footage from the USB on my computer, we were lunged forward a few feet.

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123662632#Comment_123662632

You're local to me. I hope you're all OK. Mine wasn't hit that hard and I still ended up with serious enough injuries. Probably because I was sitting forward at the time rather than with my back in the seat. If I was in the Leaf, I think I would have been in much more trouble.

I'm sure the person driving was also looking down.

Marc in Coolock is is the chap I dealt with. Give them a ring. But I recommend you insist on all new parts, because the insurance company are cúnts and I was out a good €1,500 in depreciation.

KLF

Much appreciated, I was leaning toward the Coolock branch. Looks to be a better setup. Will insist on new parts 👍

KLF

I was speaking to the other driver insurer and as soon as they heard ACE Autobody they tried to dissuade me, of course I’m going to insist but they said they would only cover the labour cost up to some hourly rate and implied I would have to pay the difference. Has anyone encountered this before?

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123662532#Comment_123662532

I generally give Ace a hard enough time but I have to say, i was impressed by the standard of work from the coolock depot.

I seen a 2020 Model 3 that has a rear boot lid resprayed by them 6 months ago and I couldn’t see any difference in the paint match. It didnt jump out compared to some repairs I’ve seen.

amdaley28

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123663458#Comment_123663458

Why were you speaking to the other drivers insurance company ?

Let your insurance company deal with that.

KLF

I believe that’s if liability is not accepted by the other party which in this case the driver and insurer have accepted. I think I’ll ring mine again anyway.

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123663458#Comment_123663458

ACE are the only approved repair shop, so they either agree to cover the cost, or you seek legal advice, which will cost them a lot more in the end. Make sure it's all on a paper trail. Confirm everything by email. I was dealing with a chap named Dxxxxxx. A proper snake.

He tried to trick me into closing my whole claim in full and final settlement, even though I was only dealing with the property damage. I only had the garage estimate at the time. And anything above the estimate stated would then have to be covered by me. Of course that wasn't made clear and it was very sneaky. I tore him a new one in my email response and the tune was quickly changed the next working day. They tend to send their emails just before closing, so you can't call them back. Don't trust, or give them an inch. Assume they are trying to screw you over, because they are.

KLF

Thanks again, definitely very sneaky. All I want is the car back the way it was which is my right under law. I’ll be sure to watch progress with a close eye.

893bet

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123663676#Comment_123663676

Why wouldn’t you?

The only way your insurer will get involved is if you want to claim on your own policy and they look to recover that from the other insurer?

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123663829#Comment_123663829

Exactly. And then you have a claim on your policy. Avoid.

...Ghost...

@KLF

You are supposed to let your own insurance know. Just let them know that you are claiming on the other drivers insurance and get written proof from the other company that liability is accepted.

KLF

Spot on, I got confirmation of the report I provided to them and how it wouldn’t affect my policy.

PureBred

Thinking about getting 2nd hand Model Y approx 2022. After selling my 530e and want to move to full elec. Anything i shud be looking for in terms of model/spec in one of those. Long range awd i suppose?

amdaley28

Yes you should inform your own insurance company & give them full details of the other drivers insurance company, policy details etc & whether liability is accepted by the other driver. Do this even if the other driver wants to pay out of his / her own pocket. Also important to have details of where any Garda report is kept.

Fortunately I have only had one incident some years ago when I was rear ended & that's what I did. It might be a different matter if the damage is really extensive or the car is a write off. Most drivers wouldn't be qualified or have enough knowledge to deal with insurance reps from another drivers insurance company.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123664009#Comment_123664009

depends if your buying new or second hand?

PureBred

2nd hand, approx 2022. Updated mu comment.

Gumbo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123664169#Comment_123664169

Check general condition as per any car.
check rear lights to ensure no condensation. Was common on older M3, not so sure of the MY but same light design.
It’s a harder ride than its competitors as it’s a bit more drivers focused.

MojoMaker

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123664009#Comment_123664009

Are you sure you need long range? The battery in that car is not as easy to manage and basically you never really see the extra range because you can't charge to the max as often without damaging the battery.

In this tiny country a RWD makes a lot more sense and you'd probably be able to come up to a 2023 for the same money.

Cyrus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123664868#Comment_123664868

Same battery composition as most other evs, as long as you aren't leaving it sitting at 100 percent it's grand, always charged my Etrons to 100 once a week.

...Ghost...

The advice is to only charge to 100% if departing straight away. There is good reason for this. Its why 24kWh Leafs from 10 years ago can still be at 80% capacity while some 40kWh models from 5 years ago are already at 80% capacity. One car has the option to limit charge to 80% and the other does not.

Its ok if charging to 100% and leaving an hour later. Its not ok to charge to 100% and regularly leave it sitting all day or for several days. If I was in the habit of doing this, I would keep sentry on and accessory power active the whole time to reduce stress on the battery pack.

Unless the full range is regularly needed, the 80% rule is a good one to follow and Tesla make it really easy to change in the APP. I leave mine at 80. Its an AWD MY. My previous M3 was RWD LFP, so 100% was ok, but I suspect this was more about cell SOC calibration than battery protection, because the LFP charge curve is so flat, you don't know if its full until its full. It guesses SOC based on watts in/out until its at at 99% full. I believe that is why Tesla recommended weekly charges to 100% rather than just saying to charge every night to 100%. Those of us with LFP home batteries have a slightly better understanding of this.

slave1

Firm believer in charging to 100% without fret, won't be lying around too long like that and there is a buffer in any case so you are never really charging to 100%

...Ghost...

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123665156#Comment_123665156

Not trying to be the battery police here 🙂

Yes, there is a buffer and charging to 100% every time might not show any discernible difference for many years (depending on other factors, including length of time left at 100% and battery temperature).

There is also a buffer in the Leaf. 100% is not a hard line in the sand, which is why the 80% is recommended and not 95%. Anything above 80%, (or below 20% for that matter) potentially takes the battery out of the green zone and puts it at higher risk of degradation. If the range isn't needed and your commute is the typical 50-70km round trip, then there is no need to charge to 500km instead of 400km for example.

The guy owning the car for the first 3-5 years will not notice anything, but you can be sure that a car charged to 80% each time compared to the car charged to 100% each time, with all else being equal, there will be a difference. I've walked away from a 2020 Leaf 40 last summer with less than 60k klms on the ODO and lower than 70% SOH because the lady kept it topped up to 100% every day. I'm sure someone with no clue about battery health ended up buying the car, but it wasn't me. I settled on a 2018 with similar mileage and closer to 80% SOH because the battery was better taken care of. Both had a tiny number of super charges, but the newer car was charged every night from new according to the seller and the older one was charged when needed.

MojoMaker

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123664950#Comment_123664950

Well just to point out that while it may not be a problem for you buying from new, it could be a problem for a future owner.

Given the poster was interested in a 3 year old AWD s/he has no way of knowing the domestic/regular charging history and could be inheriting an issue. 3 years ago there was even more FUD around and bigger knowledge gaps around concerning EVs in general.

The RWD is a safer bet from this perspective, but yes you would miss the AWD performance bump of course.

John arse

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123665373#Comment_123665373

I thought you could see the charging history in the app and on the car screen?