Perished tyres - advice req. Less than 3 year old

tabby aspreme

How many km's did you get out of the front tyres OP

PaulKK

PaulKK wrote: »

Not sure if you looked at the OPs images but the damage is not repairable on their tyre.




It's not a myth at all.

https://kumhotyre.co.uk/kumho-news/should-you-fit-new-tyres-to-the-front-or-rear/

https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/safety/car-tyres

https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/car/technology/tyre-knowledge/tirelexicon-3-0/tirelexikon-3-7

Many more sources but you get the idea.

I never said the ops was repairable. The post suggested all punctures should = a new tyre.

As for the “sources”, I don’t care what they say I disagree and in my opinion the best tyres should always go on the driving wheels. Drive a car with a bit of power and you won’t be long wanting the better tyres putting the power down.

malinheader

Lads I'm confused here. I have always been told to rotate tyres from front to back as to have the tyres with the most grip on the front. Is this now disputed as wrong. Front wheel drive car so would grip not be better on driving wheels

malinheader

malinheader wrote: »

Lads I'm confused here. I have always been told to rotate tyres from front to back as to have the tyres with the most grip on the front. Is this now disputed as wrong. Front wheel drive car so would grip not be better on driving wheels

It should this new myth should be ignored.

[Deleted User]

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Now Jay, unless you're fluent in American we're the centre of the universe. Alongside traders on the stock market.

I, for one, welcome our new autocorrect overlord.

malinheader

malinheader wrote: »

Lads I'm confused here. I have always been told to rotate tyres from front to back as to have the tyres with the most grip on the front. Is this now disputed as wrong. Front wheel drive car so would grip not be better on driving wheels

The idea with rotating tyres is to help wear the tyres evenly. I have (factory fitted) directional tyres which are staggered sizes front and rear (wider at rear) so that’s not possible. The fronts wear a little more quickly towards the sides and the rears wear more rapidly across the tyre width as it’s a rear wheel driven car.

On a FWD or AWD/4WD car with same tyre sizes all around, it’s good practice to rotate your tyres though. It does make a difference over the life of the tyres.

uck51js9zml2yt

Postman Pat wrote: »

Thanks all - for the feedback. Genie mack - after some more research online - there's a heap of articles online about Dunlops cracking. That's the last set I'll be putting on the car for a while.

I see a recommendation here to get Continentals - anyone know of any common issues with them or Michelins which I'm now considering?

I use Michelin cross climate. Never had a problem with them.

flatty

Well I've heard it all now. Someone contemplating complaining to the manufacturer as they only got 65k from a set of tyres.

ml100

flatty wrote: »

Well I've heard it all now. Someone contemplating complaining to the manufacturer as they only got 65k from a set of tyres.

How about only getting 8k km, to me these tyres have a manufacturing defect, no way should they crack after 8k km and 2.5 years on a small light car!

Kenny Logins

malinheader wrote: »

Lads I'm confused here. I have always been told to rotate tyres from front to back as to have the tyres with the most grip on the front. Is this now disputed as wrong. Front wheel drive car so would grip not be better on driving wheels

Google it and decided decide for yourself. Don't listen to any one reply or post on here.

PaulKK

Amara Wet Slum wrote: »

As for the “sources”, I don’t care what they say I disagree and in my opinion the best tyres should always go on the driving wheels. Drive a car with a bit of power and you won’t be long wanting the better tyres putting the power down.

If you think you know better than Michelin/Continental/Kumho then by all means go ahead and do what you like.

I will take the advice of the actual companies that make the things.

Kenny Logins

PaulKK wrote: »

If you think you know better than Michelin/Continental/Kumho then by all means go ahead and do what you like.

I will take the advice of the actual companies that make the things.

Sure what would they know about "putting the power down"?

khaldrogo

Keenan Tasty Squirrel wrote:

It’s absolute nonsense, best tyres should be on the driving wheels not this myth that’s is being spread around the motoring forum.

I can't say whether they are better on the front or not but the latest info from the people/bodies that carry out the tests is to put the new on the rear.

khaldrogo

Keenan Tasty Squirrel wrote:

As for the “sourcesâ€, I don’t care what they say I disagree and in my opinion the best tyres should always go on the driving wheels. Drive a car with a bit of power and you won’t be long wanting the better tyres putting the power down.

You are absolutely entitled to your opinion........but it goes against what the industry experts say.
I'll take the advise of the people who spent time and money coming to their conclusion vs your opinion thanks

khaldrogo

ml100 wrote:

How about only getting 8k km, to me these tyres have a manufacturing defect, no way should they crack after 8k km and 2.5 years on a small light car!

A car that is sat up for long periods of time where the tyres are in direct sunlight being dried out while parked will have these issues. If you were in the tyre trade for any length of time you would know this.

khaldrogo

khaldrogo wrote: »

A car that is sat up for long periods of time where the tyres are in direct sunlight being dried out while parked will have these issues. If you were in the tyre trade for any length of time you would know this.

And if you understood it yourself, you wouldn’t be writing about tyres ‘being dried out’. It’s overly simplistic and typically misleading commentary from someone who thinks they have the inside track.

The amount of rubbish people come up with about tyres is staggering. A tyre fitter fits tyres. A wholesaler sells them on to a retailer who sells them to a customer. None of them know any more than each other. None of them know enough to override the only valid source; the manufacturer of the tyres in question.

And I have ‘industry experience’. Take what the manufacturer puts in writing as being the only truly valid statement about these things. Anything else, no matter the role or brand represented by someone who sells and fits tyres is biased and being presented by someone who typically lacks the ability to carry out a valid scientific analysis to present findings. The opinion of Joe from ABC Tyres is all but worthless.

Pkiernan

Amara Wet Slum wrote: »

How many shares do you have in a tyre manufacturer!

Get a puncture, get it repaired. Only a fool would buy a new tyre because of a repairable puncture.



3-4 mm could be another year of driving so very very far from fit for the bin, what are some people smoking....



It’s absolute nonsense, best tyres should be on the driving wheels not this myth that’s is being spread around the motoring forum.

You're completely and utterly wrong and you have no idea how a car changes direction.
Shame you can spout your garbage here freely.

magentis

Amara Wet Slum wrote: »

I never said the ops was repairable. The post suggested all punctures should = a new tyre.

As for the “sources”, I don’t care what they say I disagree and in my opinion the best tyres should always go on the driving wheels. Drive a car with a bit of power and you won’t be long wanting the better tyres putting the power down.

Try putting the power down when the car is upside down in the ditch.

lawred2

https://kumhotyre.co.uk/kumho-news/should-you-fit-new-tyres-to-the-front-or-rear/

PaulKK

lawred2 wrote: »

https://kumhotyre.co.uk/kumho-news/should-you-fit-new-tyres-to-the-front-or-rear/

This was posted a couple of pages back. I also included links from the AA and Continental.

lawred2

PaulKK wrote: »

This was posted a couple of pages back. I also included links from the AA and Continental.

Cool

khaldrogo

JayZeus wrote:

And if you understood it yourself, you wouldn’t be writing about tyres ‘being dried out’. It’s overly simplistic and typically misleading commentary from someone who thinks they have the inside track.

Rubber dries out. It's not a secret ffs!!!

magentis

magentis wrote: »

Try putting the power down when the car is upside down in the ditch.

Why? It’s easier control oversteer than stop a car under steering into a ditch. The whole idea of better tyres on the back is to stop oversteer, I’d rather have some oversteer than power understeer out sliding understeer in a corner.

Rwd car obviously best rubber goes on the back.

Audioslaven

lawred2 wrote: »

3 years on one set of tyres. Lucky you.

100% - In fairness the OP has got three years out of the tyres with 65K KM. They have done ok on these tyres and should just replace them at their cost rather than go complaining about them to get a free/reduced rate on new tyres.
OP will look a right tight fecker if he does

ml100

khaldrogo wrote: »

A car that is sat up for long periods of time where the tyres are in direct sunlight being dried out while parked will have these issues. If you were in the tyre trade for any length of time you would know this.

Who said the car was sat up for long periods of time?, the car is driven 3-4 days a week, thankfully I'm not in the trade, but I have been driving for 25 years and I've never experienced this with any tyres before other than when they get to 5 or 6 years old.

kerten

This new tyres should go to rear axle advice is killing me every time as it sounds like oversteering in a bend is the only case your tyres matters and this is the only scenario you should ensure your tyres of capable of preventing.

Question: how many times did you oversteer your fwd car accidentally ?

What about emergency braking, understeer on a bend in a fwd car(don't forget that axle is under extra pressure with steering, front end weight, and trying to put the power down), avoiding a pedestrian or animal jumping in front of you ?

Question: how many times did you experience scenarios above while driving ?

So, oversteering in a bend is a risk for sure but probability of it is not high enough to ignore more probable scenarios by following a single recipe of putting new tyres on rear axle.

In a fwd car, would you really prefer to have a front tyre with 3 mm tyre depth on a wet road and brand new rear tyres in those scenarios ?

If a tyre is worn and not performing safely. just change it either based on rules and its current performance(not the tread depth only). This is the only single recipe that doesn't put people at risk when we are talking about tyre grip.

alan partridge aha

I have a 16 year old tyre on back of 02 vw bora which passes nct ever year. It was the spare in boot for 12 years and never used. I stuck it on 4 years ago. Think it's a goodyear eagle and not perished.

meeeeh

alan partridge aha wrote: »

I have a 16 year old tyre on back of 02 vw bora which passes nct ever year. It was the spare in boot for 12 years and never used. I stuck it on 4 years ago. Think it's a goodyear eagle and not perished.

It's quite possible rubber is so hard it will never perish but you also have no grip.

tedpan

I change the tyres at 35k kms(annually), have no idea how you got 65k kms? They looked bald to me??

Postman Pat

Away there for a few days. Looking at the comments now and it looks like I stoked up a right ol debate with this thread. Btw - for any poster that thinks I'm a tight feicer that's not the case. I was ready to purchase two new tyres for my car upon entering the tyre garage after getting the puncture. The garage guy told me first to go back to Dunlop as he reckoned regardless of the mileage the excessive cracks all the way round the tyre shouldn't have happened. I had an inclining there might be other views on the matter so said I would check here to see what the general consensus was - given my lack of tyre knowledge.

After some digging about what Michelin recommend re tyre rotation - seems the Michelin guideline is to rotate all your tyres every 10k km - so they all wear at the same time and then all need replacing at the same time I assume. They seem to recommend incorporating a full size spare tyre (if you have one) into the rotation as well. They recommend if just replacing two tyres that one put the newer tyres on the back. See page 14 of the owners manual below.

https://www.michelinman.com/img/store/michelin_us/exit/pdf/Owners_Manual_Post_Promise_Plan.pdf
https://www.michelinman.com/US/en/safe-driving/tire-safety/tire-rotation.html
https://www.mcmanustyres.ie/new-tyres.php