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Hanging Pictures/mirrors

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    #32
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Well colour me confused.
    GreeBo wrote: »
    It can't be faster if you need two tools...

    You need to know what's behind with any fixing... unless you want to hammer the above fixing into a wire or pipe for example

    its close but the hammer in is faster. combine that with beating them in other ares as well and its a no brainer which to use

    yes its an xtra tool but its less steps
    pick up hammer and fixing and hammer in fixing, swap to drill and drive in screw

    v


    drive in longer screw, try to pull out screw so drill can take it out, drive in driva, drive in screw


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    #33
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    the_pen_turner wrote: »
    its close but the hammer in is faster. combine that with beating them in other ares as well and its a no brainer which to use

    yes its an xtra tool but its less steps
    pick up hammer and fixing and hammer in fixing, swap to drill and drive in screw

    v


    drive in longer screw, try to pull out screw so drill can take it out, drive in driva, drive in screw

    You mean screw in driva then screw in screw
    Not sure why you are doing those extra steps....


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    #34
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    GreeBo wrote: »
    You mean screw in driva then screw in screw
    Not sure why you are doing those extra steps....

    because if you hit anything with a driva it will spin and drill a large hole. even with a good stud finder you cant be sure of the edge of timber.
    but speed isnt the main reason to abandon drevas strength is


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    #35
    Ted Plain
    Closed Accounts Posts: 222 ✭✭Ted Plain


    Rackard wrote: »
    Various weights - the mirror and one of the pictures would be heavy alright.

    Bought a picture hanging kit with loads of those rawlplug things but my mate said it wouldn't work as I'd only be going in to softish insulation board?


    Instead of a picture hanging kit how about straightening out a wire coat hanger and using that as the picture wire? You can twist the wire around itself using a pliers.


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    #36
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    the_pen_turner wrote: »
    hammer in fixings are faster.
    like these https://www.ie.screwfix.com/rawlplug-tap-it-plasterboard-fixings-metal-30mm-100-pack.html


    you can just drill them in but i find you have to drive a screw in first to see if there is timber behind . if you hit anything with a driva fitting it will drill a hole.

    I've used these recently and they are fantastic.
    highly recommended.


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    #37
    fred funk }{
    Registered Users Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    Just to give you an idea how strong Spring Toggle bolts are.



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECDysfNhx_E


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    #38
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    the_pen_turner wrote: »
    because if you hit anything with a driva it will spin and drill a large hole. even with a good stud finder you cant be sure of the edge of timber.
    but speed isnt the main reason to abandon drevas strength is

    You must have the torq setting too high if this is happening for you.

    If this is a concern, screw them in by hand with a screwdriver.

    I'd rather hit something with a driva than with a pointy hammer in fixing...


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    #39
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    The driva ones are absolute ****e in the wrong hands.
    Biggest problem I've seen with them is people using the wrong size screw.Too long,too fat or too heavy a thread.
    And then over torquing them and wallowing out the hole.
    Also getting them exactly where you want them down to the mm is tricky as they walk a bit .
    Yes they are good when installed properly but do leave a poxy hole if removed.
    The hammer in ones are far superior and all the tradesmen I know (electrical) have started using them recently.


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    #40
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    The driva ones are absolute ****e in the wrong hands.
    Biggest problem I've seen with them is people using the wrong size screw.Too long,too fat or too heavy a thread.
    And then over torquing them and wallowing out the hole.
    Also getting them exactly where you want them down to the mm is tricky as they walk a bit .
    Yes they are good when installed properly but do leave a poxy hole if removed.
    The hammer in ones are far superior and all the tradesmen I know (electrical) have started using them recently.

    I think the first line is key here....like most things.

    How do you remove the hammer in ones?


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    #41
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    You just screw in 1 thread then pull them straight out and they leave a little slit.


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    #42
    jhenno78
    Closed Accounts Posts: 208 ✭✭jhenno78


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    The driva ones... do leave a poxy hole if removed.

    You can just screw them into the wall a bit and add some filler.


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    #43
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    You just screw in 1 thread then pull them straight out and they leave a little slit.

    Are they not designed *not* to pull out? :confused:
    I've seen 10-15KG horizontal strength listed for them, I wouldnt like to be putting that force on plasterboard while I tried to pull it out, I'd expect a lump of the wall to come with it.


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    #44
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    the only thing keeping the wings apart is te screw. once thats removed the wings will bend back as you pull it out.. very little pressure is needed to remove them


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    #45
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    GreeBo wrote: »
    You must have the torq setting too high if this is happening for you.

    If this is a concern, screw them in by hand with a screwdriver.

    I'd rather hit something with a driva than with a pointy hammer in fixing...

    why would you rather hit timber with a driva over a hammer in fixing. the hammer in will just stop or hammer in and still work . a driva will create a large hole that takes a few coats to fill

    why bother faffing about with tork settings ( your right though) when you can just use something a lot better


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    #46
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    the_pen_turner wrote: »
    why would you rather hit timber with a driva over a hammer in fixing. the hammer in will just stop or hammer in and still work . a driva will create a large hole that takes a few coats to fill

    why bother faffing about with tork settings ( your right though) when you can just use something a lot better

    If the hammer in hits wood the parts won't split so it won't work, but think about a pipe or a wire Rather than wood.

    It doesn't take multiple coats, the hole is only large if you butcher the install.
    Flicking thr torque on a cordless is hardly faffing, but if you find that too much, just use the same screwdriver as you would on the screw...


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    #47
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    GreeBo wrote: »
    If the hammer in hits wood the parts won't split so it won't work, but think about a pipe or a wire Rather than wood.

    It doesn't take multiple coats, the hole is only large if you butcher the install.
    Flicking thr torque on a cordless is hardly faffing, but if you find that too much, just use the same screwdriver as you would on the screw...

    you wouldnt hammer them in if the stud finder indicated that wires or pipes are there.
    and the screw will still go through into the wood



    anytime i have taken out a driva it has taken 2 coats to fill the hole.


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