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Changing a chain and sprockets

  • 10-09-2018 10:52pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Just wondering how hard is it to change a chain and sprockets. And while doing this is it better to take the wheel off and get a tyre fitted?

    It's a FZ6. My level of mechanics is fairly solid with cars, done a timing belt and water pump change on my Dad's car recently. But no idea what it is about bikes but never had much luck mechanically, so is it worth just sending it off to a shop to do the work. Or just pick up the tools required and get the chain etc.. and give it a bash?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,100 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    If you've got a centre stand or paddock stand it's easy enough to do, just Youtube your bike. If you don't send it off to be done.

    You'll need to remove the wheel to fit the change so if it's easy to get to the tyre shop then bring it when it's off. Just make sure that no one will be near the bike and the rear is supported when you go for the tyre, don't want it falling over.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Little things like loosening the gearbox sprocket nut and the rear sprocket nuts/bolts before you start stripping the wheel etc ...can make it a lot easier ..;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Very easy to do. But the front sprocket is a nightmare together get off unless you have a big lever.

    For front one leave the wheel and chain on and put something solid between the spokes of the wheel to hold the chain in place . With a long lever on your socket wrench you will shift it. That's the hardest part .

    Make sure you have a chain tool too to put on new chain link . And don't over tighten it. Best to measure the gap and tighten measure and tighten . It's relatively easy to wring a chain link with over tightening


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    listermint wrote: »
    Best to measure the gap and tighten measure and tighten . It's relatively easy to wring a chain link with over tightening

    Verniers is your only man.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Thanks everyone.

    I think I will give it a go. My next question then is, who makes the best chain and sprockets, also where is a good place to source them?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,133 ✭✭✭✭GBX


    DID or Afam


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Got my last DID from here
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/urbanbikeshop?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754

    Great quality was shipped fast and the prices were very competitive.


  • Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭ Tessa Freezing Cowhide


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Just wondering how hard is it to change a chain and sprockets. And while doing this is it better to take the wheel off and get a tyre fitted?

    It's a FZ6. My level of mechanics is fairly solid with cars, done a timing belt and water pump change on my Dad's car recently. But no idea what it is about bikes but never had much luck mechanically, so is it worth just sending it off to a shop to do the work. Or just pick up the tools required and get the chain etc.. and give it a bash?

    If your asking how to change a sprocket and then asking should you take the wheel off I reckon you should bring it to a professional man.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    If your asking how to change a sprocket and then asking should you take the wheel off I reckon you should bring it to a professional man.

    Fcuk me...never thought of it that way...:rolleyes:


  • Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭ Tessa Freezing Cowhide


    Fcuk me...never thought of it that way...:rolleyes:

    Don't know what the fcuk your taking the piss with and you offered fcuk all help to him apart from some rubbish about loosening bolts, the question was ridiculous! What's a tyre got to do with a sprocket and chain.

    Op, changing a sprocket and chain is a piece of piss, takes 30 minutes and you should be well capable of it if you can so a timing belt! Buy a D.I.D chain kit on eBay with a JT sprocket, there's loads of them, this is ideal! D.I.D chains are the best you can get!

    https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ6-Fazer-2004-to-2009-DID-Gold-X-Ring-Chain-JT-Sprockets-Kit-Set/142460252953?hash=item212b4af319:g:BsQAAOSwXxhZ~bmP

    and buy a chain rivit tool, go on to dell boys garage YouTube channel and he has a guide video you can use.

    If you are replacing the front sprocket take the cover off and bring it to a garage and get them to take it off with an impact gun and nip it tight so you can get it off again easy when you get home. You probably won't get it off without an impact


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    If you read the op (it seems you can read, a bit) he mentioned changing the tyre at the same time....I've changed plenty of sprockets and chains and have never had a problem with opening sprocket nuts...maybe your right arm is just tired !!....Del boy..dont make me laugh..more like Rodney..:P

    Good tip there about riding the bike with a loose front sprocket nut....is that a Del boy trick...:rolleyes:....OP DONT EVER DO THIS...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭mamax


    @TallGlass it's an easy enough job for a person fairly competent with basic car/bike mechanics.
    Use your phone to take some pics and remember which side each wheel spacer came from, as said the front sprocket can be difficult so loosen this before you do anything else.
    Also a good chain breaker/riveter is essential imho and a bit of investment in certain tools will save a lot over a few years if you plan on replacing consumables yourself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Don't know what the fcuk your taking the piss with and you offered fcuk all help to him apart from some rubbish about loosening bolts, the question was ridiculous! What's a tyre got to do with a sprocket and chain.

    Op, changing a sprocket and chain is a piece of piss, takes 30 minutes and you should be well capable of it if you can so a timing belt! Buy a D.I.D chain kit on eBay with a JT sprocket, there's loads of them, this is ideal! D.I.D chains are the best you can get!

    https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ6-Fazer-2004-to-2009-DID-Gold-X-Ring-Chain-JT-Sprockets-Kit-Set/142460252953?hash=item212b4af319:g:BsQAAOSwXxhZ~bmP

    and buy a chain rivit tool, go on to dell boys garage YouTube channel and he has a guide video you can use.

    If you are replacing the front sprocket take the cover off and bring it to a garage and get them to take it off with an impact gun and nip it tight so you can get it off again easy when you get home. You probably won't get it off without an impact

    Cheers, what I meant about tyre was, I can get it off, (I wouldn't touch it if I couldn't!) but will it cost me less if I have it off and bring it somewhere to get a new one fitted or just fit chain and have new tyre put on after.

    Yeah I have an impact gun if that doesn't get it off a friend has one up for 600nm.

    I'm looking at the riveter tools online and most of the reviews are saying there ****e and break after first use, now mind you these people could be using them wrong! Anyone any recommendations on one to buy?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I bought this one

    https://www.mandp.co.uk/jt-chain-breaker-riveting-tool.html

    Easy to use. Don't spend big money on a tool you'd use very three years. And I'm someone who likes to spend on high quality tools. This does the job fine.

    As with anything you'll break something if your a flute. Follow the instructions and you will use it fine.

    Mine isn't broken nor damaged in any way.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    So went with the DID Gold/Black chain and JT sprockets arrived today. Along with a fairly sizeable order from Motorcycle Shop with 15% discount, front/back pads, oil, oil filter, air filter, sparks.

    Oil and filter along with air filter and sparks done (bit of a job to do them, pheking socket got caught on the plug, forgot to take that stupid rubber insert off).

    Cracked on with chain tonight, impact gun made serious light work of inner sprocket, Sealey tool got chain off without breaking itself, grinding down a bit the link flat first before using the tool, helped a lot.

    Chains off now, inner sprocket off, got the back wheel off then also tonight, bearing look good too.

    Just wondering, want to do a bit of cleaning where the sprocket is located along with around the wheel was etc.. Think engine degreaser should do the trick was thinking a can of break cleaning but thought that might be a little OTT and bit of scrubbing?

    Also for the axle when I put it back on, is it a good idea to put a bit of CV grease on it or copper grease or some oil, bit of oil on bearings etc..

    So leaves me with the question, do tyre now while it's off or leave it on and drive it out to be done! Might ring Cotters tomorrow and see if there is a discount for it.

    Got a set of break pads for back to, while wheel is off.

    Oh and changed the clutch cable out too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    seems like you on top of things now..yeah grease all the parts you cant see..water will find its way in everywhere..get the tyre on now while the wheels off


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Any solvent will break down old crusty chain lube given time, but the cheapest stuff is kerosene.
    I use a stiff brush, an old paint brush with the bristles cut down is usually good and agitate the kero in, leave with a drip tray underneath, repeat a few times and it should all be gone or very soft after a while.
    You can always buy degreaser in cans that work as well but cost more than kero.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Thanks for the advise everyone so far.

    For anyone interested. Cotters got back to me. New tyre fitted and balanced when rim is off bike 10€.

    Might have a browse online for tyres. Anyone any recommendations? General commuting driving, mixed with some motorway and some weekend spinning on the back roads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Was looking at Tyreleader actually. There seems to be a few version of the BT023, with different ratings, there's one C/B/B. Emailed Cotters to check what version they have. The lowest is 100 on that site for BT023, 116 in Cotters I would give the extra 16 for convince. But would ideally like to know EU tyre rating.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    I have BT23s on my GSX1400 and I never liked that tyre on my bike. They feel kind of wooden at anything besides summer temperatures, IME. Plenty wear and all that but I'm looking forward to them coming off which is going to be very soon.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    cantdecide wrote: »
    I have BT23s on my GSX1400 and I never liked that tyre on my bike. They feel kind of wooden at anything besides summer temperatures, IME. Plenty wear and all that but I'm looking forward to them coming off which is going to be very soon.

    What you looking at next ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    My buddy swears by Pirelli Angel STs. They're very affordable it seems and they seem to get great reviews from what I've read. I had Dunlop Roadsmarts on my Aprila Mille so would be open to trying them again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    cantdecide wrote: »
    My buddy swears by Pirelli Angel STs. They're very affordable it seems and they seem to get great reviews from what I've read. I had Dunlop Roadsmarts on my Aprila Mille so would be open to trying them again.

    Have Dunlops on the car, can't fault them so far. I think there is some form of Battlex Tyre on the bike at the moment, to be honest not the worst. The tyre itself has a little left on it, the thing is I drove on it when it was flat, so to me that's a big no no and needs replacement, you can see the walls are like 'brushed'. Just don't trust it. Unless it's like a runflat?

    Another toy arrived there today (had a good moan about Parcel Motel on another part of the site), torque wrench 28-210nm, some how missed it starts at 28nm, so will have to get one that does down to the lower numbers!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Have Dunlops on the car, can't fault them so far. I think there is some form of Battlex Tyre on the bike at the moment, to be honest not the worst. The tyre itself has a little left on it, the thing is I drove on it when it was flat, so to me that's a big no no and needs replacement, you can see the walls are like 'brushed'. Just don't trust it. Unless it's like a runflat?

    Another toy arrived there today (had a good moan about Parcel Motel on another part of the site), torque wrench 28-210nm, some how missed it starts at 28nm, so will have to get one that does down to the lower numbers!

    Torque wrenches get less accurate at either end of the scale, best to have a smaller one for low torque figures as these are where you have the most chance of damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,473 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    A tenner to fit and balance a tyre is great value. Some places (*cough* NDM *cough*) get all arsey about fitting tyres they don't supply, I think it's nuts to turn away business, when the guy is in there waiting for his tyres to be fitted he might buy something else after all!

    I can't be arsed getting tyres delivered, and it's been ages since front and rear needed replacing together, so I just get Cotters to supply and fit, they have decent prices on Michelins anyway.

    I did order a pair of tyres years ago (over the phone - pre-internet!) and got them delivered to work, the lad on reception thought I was nuts :) and brought them home around my waist - dunno if that's still possible :o

    In Cavan there was a great fire / Judge McCarthy was sent to inquire / It would be a shame / If the nuns were to blame / So it had to be caused by a wire.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 771 ✭✭✭HappyAsLarE


    If you are replacing the front sprocket take the cover off and bring it to a garage and get them to take it off with an impact gun and nip it tight so you can get it off again easy when you get home. You probably won't get it off without an impact

    Jesus H Christ this is retarded advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Jesus H Christ this is retarded advice.


    OH NO......:eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Sorry lads. Back at it again today. Went out to Cotters, seen a half decent tyre B014 I think for 70€. Anyway, they didn't have it and ended up getting a Pierelli Angel SP for 130€. Just went with it, reviews seem okay, should have gone with the Dunlop for the price but couldn't think of the name of the tyre at the time.

    Anyway, sure it's on the bike now, new sproket and greased it up. There sounds like a bit of rubbing, so think bearing might be on way out. Or might not be even on axle. Happy enoght so far, going in order of things that came off. Will replace breaks next then fit the chain.

    Oh and torque it all up as I do it !


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    So you got the tyre on but never changed the sprockets and chain...:confused:....so the wheel has to come back off..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,100 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Sorry lads. Back at it again today. Went out to Cotters, seen a half decent tyre B014 I think for 70€. Anyway, they didn't have it and ended up getting a Pierelli Angel SP for 130€. Just went with it, reviews seem okay, should have gone with the Dunlop for the price but couldn't think of the name of the tyre at the time.

    Anyway, sure it's on the bike now, new sproket and greased it up. There sounds like a bit of rubbing, so think bearing might be on way out. Or might not be even on axle. Happy enoght so far, going in order of things that came off. Will replace breaks next then fit the chain.

    Oh and torque it all up as I do it !

    Chain and sprockets at the same time or you are wasting your money. The chain will now wear the new sprockets and when you fit a new chain the sprockets will wear the chain.

    Check your eccentric adjusters to make sure that you have the wheel correctly aligned for the rubbing noise.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Was on mobile with that post so it did not make much sense.

    Just to clear up, I got a new tyre (changed it while it was off, made more sense to me to do it now) while the chain/sprockets are been changed (as mentioned it's pointless having them off and not changing them).

    I am half way into the job, working my way back in reverse order of what came off.

    Tyre is new, back sprocket is new, chain will be new, drive sprocket is new, it's all new parts.

    Will fit new break pads next, then final drive sprocket and finally fit the chain. The greasing was in reference to putting some grease on wheel bearings and axle.

    Hope that clears things up, hoping to try get a few photos.

    Just on a side note, this is a fairly straight forward operation, you'd have it done in a day, I am just picking away at it in between other stuff, so that's why it's taking longer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    So all done tonight with chain and sprockets, was to into it and forgot to take photos. Only issue was break pads on back, can't get the screw/bolt off to release the break pads from the calliper.

    Only ever seen that type of set up on an Evo 4 with Brembos, there a bollix to change if the pin gets stuck which it has.

    I tried to turn it with a flat head screwdriver but it just started to round it. Dunno what to do with it to be honest.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    I took a look on YouTube, the technical name is a treaded cap, doesn't look to deep into it, however whoever changed them before had the thing bet on. Might try some heat on it, worst case will be to brut force it off one way or another. The rear pads need to be changed badly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    When you refit it, make sure that its well covered in anti-seize paste or the same thing will happen again.
    Try a small sharp cold chisel on an edge and maybe buy a couple of new ones as a backup plan.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    When you refit it, make sure that its well covered in anti-seize paste or the same thing will happen again.
    Try a small sharp cold chisel on an edge and maybe buy a couple of new ones as a backup plan.

    Legend. Dunno why I didn't try it last night. Few taps on the side and it moved right away!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    All done now! :pac:

    Sparks, Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Chain, Sprockets, Back Breaks, Clutch Cable and back tyre.

    Save up some more cash and will work on front, have front pads there but would rather wait till the back pads are more established before changing front.

    Thanks all for all the help, overall not a bad job to do by yourself, little bit fiddly but easily manageable if you take your time doing it. If you do, take it easy with the chain tool, it's pretty easy to break it if you apply to much force.

    Oh and if you ever see them measuring calipers in Lidl, I would pick one up if you plan on doing a chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Nice to see someone having a go...too many "bikers" these days won't get their nails dirty..you've saved yourself a few hundred quid AND learned some things...fair play...;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭Kat1170


    Just only thing, bikes aren't like cars in that it's not a good idea to have different makes of tyres front and back. Can mess up your handling and grip to dangerous levels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Kat1170 wrote: »
    Just only thing, bikes aren't like cars in that it's not a good idea to have different makes of tyres front and back. Can mess up your handling and grip to dangerous levels.


    Old wives tale.....unless youre Marquez...:P


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭Kat1170


    Old wives tale.....unless youre Marquez...


    Well you feel free to mix and match all you want ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Kat1170 wrote: »
    Well you feel free to mix and match all you want ;)


    Over 40 years experience.....never an issue.....H&S gone mad....:P

    Only thing you need to get right is the sizes..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,473 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Kat1170 wrote: »
    Just only thing, bikes aren't like cars in that it's not a good idea to have different makes of tyres front and back. Can mess up your handling and grip to dangerous levels.

    I've run different carcass types front and rear never mind makes. Was not a problem.

    In Cavan there was a great fire / Judge McCarthy was sent to inquire / It would be a shame / If the nuns were to blame / So it had to be caused by a wire.



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