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At my wits end.

  • 21-08-2018 9:39pm
    #1
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    I'm hoping someone can point to my specific problem and say "thats it".

    2004, Vectra C, 122 hp, 1.8 petrol, Z18XE.

    About 6 weeks ago the car got a squeak/creak in the rear end. When i say got i don't mean developed slowly over time, but from one day having no issues to the next day the issue being there.

    I have, since Christmas, essentially replaced most of the back end. Some was by choice, others because it was needed. Here is what i've done before the creak/squeak appeared:
    • Springs
    • Shocks
    • Upper control arm
    • Lower control arm
    • Brake Disc
    • Brake pads
    Since the creak/squeak appeared i've replaced:
    • Drop links (one was damaged so i replace both which was a PITA as i only replaced them a year ago)
    • ARBs (cause they needed done)

    The sound, while i describe it a squeak/creaking noise is like an old door being opened as you'd hear in a movie. Like stepping on a old floorboard. Its not metal on metal or any sort of grinding noise. Check out the video link below for the exact type (not my car, just an example).

    I've sprayed every bush, ball joint, spring, drop link, even the shock with plenty of oil (one at a time) to see if i can locate which one is causing it via process of elimination, but nothing takes it away.

    When driving, at low speeds of 2 - 15mph is there and loud. As the speed picks up the noise drops until at anything over say 22-25 mph its all but gone.

    When its wet i get nothing, and the noise only appeared about 5 weeks into the extreme hot weather so i though perhaps it was dust, dirt or debris, but after power housing the under side of the car a few times the noise remains.

    At this point my only option if someone cannot point to the problem is to start replacing parts i've only installed in the last 6 to 8 months which while i admit there could be a faulty part is not showing as evident and not a route i want to take (for monetary reasons. Having spent a small fortune so far).

    Thanks in advance for any help.




    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h9sC4JnQJU
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Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Meant to add. This is happening on both sides. Not one side first then the other. Both at the same time. Or least it seems so being that no matter which side you push down on or which side you rock the car it happens.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    Is the car driving perfectly?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Yup.

    I keep the car i top spec. I replace any part that is needed immediately and sometimes because i want to. I also replace parts after "X" amount of years. I'll never see the cost back, but i don't judge the part/car by it's cost to me.

    Just the noise is not only driving my up the wall, its the fact i cannot locate it. It's embarrassing knowing my car was, until 6 weeks ago, silent and now it's so loud outside that when i'm going down a main street people look to see where the noise is coming from.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,514 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    I had a noise in the back of my Vectra driving me mad for ages, turned out it was the parcel shelf. Not too dissimilar to your video.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    Have u checked the anti roll bar bushings and the bushing under the rear sill where u adjust the tracking


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    The latter being an awkward one to see and get too


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    TheChizler wrote: »
    I had a noise in the back of my Vectra driving me mad for ages, turned out it was the parcel shelf.
    I've read other threads and they address other, somewhat odd possibilities such as boot latch, parcel shelf, etc. but i've checked with the boot open/closed and it's there, with the boot empty its there, the shelf out/in and its there. Also when kneeling on the boot to "bounce" the car to check the sound comes from under the car/my knee.
    TheBully wrote: »
    Have u checked the anti roll bar bushings and the bushing under the rear sill where u adjust the tracking
    Replaced the ARBs last week, and aren't the bushings at the eccentric bolt for tracking are on the control arms? These are less than a year old. Both upper and lower.

    If i'm wrong on the bushing you are referring to, sorry. Which ones do you mean.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    I think I’m getting mixed up with the vectra B where the tracking was controlled by a control arm under the sill.

    This is the bushing I’m thinking of though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,781 ✭✭✭jmreire


    We had a similar problem in a car one time. For a finish, after replacing / checking every moving part underneath the vehicle, we completely emptied the boot, put 3 people in the back seat, and one in the front passenger seat, and of course the driver. Then we put a 6th person in the boot, and took the car for a drive. Within 2 minutes, he had pinpointed the source of the noise. It turned out to be a spot weld holding a metal brace behind the back seat had parted, allowing the brace to flex and scratch against it's neighbour. Problem solved in that case. Might be worth a try in your car, Remove everything from the boot, inc. the rear seats, when thats done, bounce it up and down and see if you can locate the noise. It could be a body issue, metal to metal, as it was in my case. I'm not suggesting that you do what I did though, putting some one in the boot and then going for a drive. It was a long time ago when I did it, and time's have changed a lot since. :)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    TheBully wrote: »
    I think I’m getting mixed up with the vectra B where the tracking was controlled by a control arm under the sill.

    This is the bushing I’m thinking of though
    Got ya.

    The Vectra C has one too but i'll be honest and say i never knew there was a bushing at the other end. Seems blatantly obvious now, but its something to check.

    EDIT - Just went out and checked it. Bear with me now because i'll probably say this arseways.

    Could there be a resonance issue that is making me think its from behind the hub when its actually this bushing? I lay under the car and got it bounced. The bushing is perished and there is a sound from it but given the length and thiness of the arm could the sound from the worn bushing be "traveling" up the arm, to it's point behind the hub, and then resonating with the disc/hub to make it louder and seem likes its from there and not the actual bearing.

    As said the bushing is perished and pieces of rubber flaked off it when i ran my hand/finer around the bushing.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    Cass wrote: »
    Got ya.

    The Vectra C has one too but i'll be honest and say i never knew there was a bushing at the other end. Seems blatantly obvious now, but its something to check.

    EDIT - Just went out and checked it. Bear with me now because i'll probably say this arseways.

    Could there be a resonance issue that is making me think its from behind the hub when its actually this bushing? I lay under the car and got it bounced. The bushing is perished and there is a sound from it but given the length and thiness of the arm could the sound from the worn bushing be "traveling" up the arm, to it's point behind the hub, and then resonating with the disc/hub to make it louder and seem likes its from there and not the actual bearing.

    As said the bushing is perished and pieces of rubber flaked off it when i ran my hand/finer around the bushing.

    You could be right about the resonance issue, any worn bush in reality will make noise and maybe the long arm is helping that!

    I hope this is your issue, they are a bit of a pig to change if I remember correctly but if it solves your problem will be worth it.

    Hope this helped, I’m an electrician not a mechanic but always do my own few bits also


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    When i bought the car the previous owner, had it from new, he had it well serviced throughout the years by the dealership, but one thing i noticed when i started to check parts was that each "major" part was still factory original. Its why i systematically changed every major part whether it seemed like it needed it or not so i knew i was starting fresh from the day i changed them and so as not to get hit with a major failure down the road.

    I'm no mechanic but like yourself i do all my own work. Some of the bolts and nuts were badly seized and some had to be replaced. Overall the car was in good condition, wouldn't have bought otherwise, but there is no better feeling of knowing its done and you've done it.

    This noise is getting on my wick and hopefully this will sort it. I've to pick up parts for my other car in the morning so will get two new bushings while i'm there. I see a lot of cursing and name calling in my future, tomorrow, because it'll be as "easy" to remove the original part as all the other ones were. :rolleyes:

    Will update on how i get on and if it resolves the issue.

    Thanks, everyone, for everything so far.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 876 ✭✭✭TheBully


    Cass wrote: »
    When i bought the car the previous owner, had it from new, he had it well serviced throughout the years by the dealership, but one thing i noticed when i started to check parts was that each "major" part was still factory original. Its why i systematically changed every major part whether it seemed like it needed it or not so i knew i was starting fresh from the day i changed them and so as not to get hit with a major failure down the road.

    I'm no mechanic but like yourself i do all my own work. Some of the bolts and nuts were badly seized and some had to be replaced. Overall the car was in good condition, wouldn't have bought otherwise, but there is no better feeling of knowing its done and you've done it.

    This noise is getting on my wick and hopefully this will sort it. I've to pick up parts for my other car in the morning so will get two new bushings while i'm there. I see a lot of cursing and name calling in my future, tomorrow, because it'll be as "easy" to remove the original part as all the other ones were. :rolleyes:

    Will update on how i get on and if it resolves the issue.

    Thanks, everyone, for everything so far.

    Looking forward to the update


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    If you can get a long screwdriver or better again a mechanics stethoscope get under the car and have someone else push the car while you use the end of the screwdriver or stethoscope to listen to various parts to determine where the noise is coming from.
    It may take some time but with patience you should be able to pinpoint the source of the offending noise.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Update.

    All sorted, at last.

    I changed the inner bushing for the suspension arm, problem was still there. Replaced the bushes on the trailing arms, problem was still there. I don't mind changing these as they were not done by me so were going to be changed regardless. So it wasn't a case of changing parts randomly until i got it.

    Now i have everything changed and the problem is still there so that tells me it's something i've changed that is faulty or not working as it should. So i went back to square one. Thing is i cannot replicate the noise and check while its on the ground (cannot get under the car) or jacked up (not laden on all wheels). So i went to my Uncle's garage and used his pit. Within 10 minutes i had it. The Banana arm that i replaced, on the passenger's side. The driver's side was making noise too, but not as bad as the passengers. So around to the motor factos, two new Febi Bilstein arms, and back around to the garage.

    Took them off, new arms on and hey presto noise is gone.

    When i inspected the arms, particularly the passenger one, i noticed the bushes, especially the outer one, seems to have "exploded". The rubber was completely gone on one side, with it looking like someone had 5 minutes to do as much damage as possible. I don't know what caused it, whether it was a faulty part, a "Monday morning/Friday Evening" part, or simply one of those things. I'm going back through my service book and rechecking the dates of the earlier parts i installed, and checking them for faults/wear. Noticed the rear drop links are looking a little worn, so i'll change them out now and have some peace of mind.

    Thanks again folks foe the help and being a sounding board.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,781 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Cass wrote: »
    Update.

    All sorted, at last.

    I changed the inner bushing for the suspension arm, problem was still there. Replaced the bushes on the trailing arms, problem was still there. I don't mind changing these as they were not done by me so were going to be changed regardless. So it wasn't a case of changing parts randomly until i got it.

    Now i have everything changed and the problem is still there so that tells me it's something i've changed that is faulty or not working as it should. So i went back to square one. Thing is i cannot replicate the noise and check while its on the ground (cannot get under the car) or jacked up (not laden on all wheels). So i went to my Uncle's garage and used his pit. Within 10 minutes i had it. The Banana arm that i replaced, on the passenger's side. The driver's side was making noise too, but not as bad as the passengers. So around to the motor
    factos, two new Febi Bilstein arms, and back around to the garage.

    Took them off, new arms on and hey presto noise is gone.

    When i inspected the arms, particularly the passenger one, i noticed the bushes, especially the outer one, seems to have "exploded". The rubber was completely gone on one side, with it looking like someone had 5 minutes to do as much damage as possible. I don't know what caused it, whether it was a faulty part, a "Monday morning/Friday Evening" part, or simply one of those things. I'm going back through my service book and rechecking the dates of the earlier parts i installed, and checking them for faults/wear. Noticed the rear drop links are looking a little worn, so i'll change them out now and have some peace of mind.

    Thanks again folks foe the help and being a sounding board.

    Glad to hear that you got it sorted at long last..few thing's more annoying in a car than an unidentified noise !!! But was this the first time, when you put it on a pit and were able to check it out from underneath???


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Since the noise started, yes. Since i got the car, no.

    Before i was jacking it up, doing it on the ground (wheels on and off) and could not identify it. Not exactly anyway. When over the pit i used a pry bar and jammed it against the drop links, bushes, control and suspension arms until the noise stopped. Once i had the banana arm on the passenger side "jammed" the noise stopped. the driver's side made a tiny creak but about 10% of what was happening from the passenger side.

    I don't always have access to the pit, but when i need it i can make use of it. A combination of distance and availability. Took the opportunity to check soem other suff too. Stuff i've checked before but not with such ease of access. Exhaust will need work at some point. It's not blowing, but i have had an itch for a dual exhaust system for some time and if replacing i might go with two back boxes. More so for aesthetics than functionality.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,781 ✭✭✭jmreire


    While jacking up a car is Ok for some jobs ( and I do it all the time myself ) A problem like your's, where you have to duplicate the exact conditions to re create the fault, a lift ( and 4 post lift at that,, wheel free will not do ) or a pit is the only way...Were the faulty bushings in the arms original, or had you replaced them previously? I'm not surprised that the Passenger side was more worn than the driver side...that's because there are more pot holes and damaged road surface's always on the Passengers side ( at least in my part of the Country ) and the PS suspension's etc. will tend to wear faster than the drivers side.

    Good Luck in the future with it.. :)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    jmreire wrote: »
    While jacking up a car is Ok for some jobs ( and I do it all the time myself ) A problem like your's, where you have to duplicate the exact conditions to re create the fault, a lift ( and 4 post lift at that,, wheel free will not do ) or a pit is the only way
    Yup.

    Weeks on my hands and knees that was sorted in ten minutes over a pit.
    ...Were the faulty bushings in the arms original, or had you replaced them previously?
    Replacements. Opel tend to go trough them quick enough but the motor factors reckons they're faulty as they're still under warranty. Two new Febi Bilstein gone into it and i'm told i should receive my money back for hte last ones. So might not cost me a penny in the end, which is nice. :D
    I'm not surprised that the Passenger side was more worn than the driver side...that's because there are more pot holes and damaged road surface's always on the Passengers side ( at least in my part of the Country ) and the PS suspension's etc. will tend to wear faster than the drivers side.
    Absolutely, but my surprise was because the sound, and i'd nearly put money on it, always sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. Again the advantage of a pit. :o
    Good Luck in the future with it.. :)
    Cheers, but in the future no more fecking around with. Lift or pit first and find the problem immediately.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Just a thought, did you install those arms loaded with the vehicle weight or unloaded?
    If you fitted them while the car was raised and no load when compressed they might have started to tear.
    Sometimes you have to fit them but not fully tighten until the cars weight is sitting on them and bounced a couple of times.


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Unladen, but i don't know how you would fit them with the vehicle laden.

    To access them you have to remove the wheel, drop off the suspension arm from the hub, remove the spring and for the nearside remove the ARB bush and disconnect the drop link to give just another inch of room, but not necessary for the offside. Where the banana arm connects to the hub at the top, behind the fitted wheel so there is no access to it, and as for the inner bush of the arm, forget about it. If it were not for hte air wrench i'd still be out there trying to turn the bolt. There is so little room that a turn of the wrench (manual) in the space given is so small that is takes about 12 turns to make one revolution of the nut/bolt and it's threaded on for over an inch.

    After saying all that while working on it i have the hub is supported, the suspension arm is also supported (by trolley jacks) as well as the car being jacked up. Even over a pit you would still have to come in from the wheel/hub but could have someone underneath to help.

    You can try and get to the bolt/nuts from a "distance" using extensions and knuckle joints on the wrench but with a Torx head nut facing out, and the 18mm normal nut up against the inside of the body, i don't fancy ringing it off.
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