Shed build - help

Lumen

Some progress this weekend.

Made some levelling bolts from M10 threaded rod, penny washers, nuts and epoxy, and used the conical washers to mate the bottom nut with the ground screw plate. Those conical washers are sexy.

Laid out the frame, levelled and squared. Will wait for my track saw to arrive before cutting.

I think I'll build the frame up with the levelling bit open, and then epoxy grout when the coach screws are in. That'll allow me to fine-tune the levels.

Those 3" blocks are only temporary until the frame is made. I'll either rest the frame on the washer-bolt tops or get some plate alu and drill it for the coach screws.

I plan to sling the floor joists under the frame on long leg jiffy hangers attached on the outside of the frame. This will reclaim the headroom I've lost by the height of the screws and spacers, leave the interior face of the frame beams clean of metalwork, and act as a shelf for the external insulation. Should have a couple of cm clearance above ground, but since the insulation and cladding will overhang there won't be any rain splash to contend with.

My current favourite tool: alloy bar clamp/spreader

https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-alloy-bar-clamp-spreader-ax945573

Not only will it do 180kg of clamping force (which has kept me alive today) but it will also spread with the same force so can be used as a jack to lift the beams off the ground screws for repositioning. Lovely thing! Can never have enough clamps...

Anyway, it's a beast. About 500kg so far! I'm going to stick the door on the left hand side to enable more steps up to the door. And because the floor will be sunk 300mm inside the frame, there will be more steps down on the inside. More drama! Or trip hazards, whatever.

Bigger pics: https://imgur.com/a/1ayRGDS

Lumen

OK, this last bit has been quite fiddly. I think at least three days to measure, cut, glue, screw and bolt down the frame. Maybe four. God it was hard.

Rough Steps:

- Level and square the uncut timber on the ground screws using the epoxied levelling bolts.
- Nearly break my wife's feet when the whole thing collapses (no actual injuries were incurred). Have a stern word with myself.
- Redesign the levelling screws with solid vulcanized rubber ice hockey pucks.
- Re-level and square the uncut timber.
- Cut the short beams, glu-laminate with Cascamite and screw with a combination of hex-headed self-drilling Timco screws and coach screws.
- Re-square and re-level again.
- Repeat the gluing and screwing with the long beams, except using plate-headed Timco screws rather than coach screws (don't have the right length coach screws yet)
- Strap everything tight with heavy duty ratchet straps.
- Re-square and re-level again.
- Screw the corners with more Timco hex-headed screws, skewed to avoid screwing into end grain.
- Drill up into the beams with 8mm auger bit using right-angle drill adapter on the low side, one coach screw per ground screw with conical washer.

The result is pleasingly solid. Diagonals are within 4mm of square. Whole thing is bubble-level well within the margins.

Next step, suspended floor....

Large pics: https://imgur.com/a/agSKEF7

Rows Grower

My new favourite thread.

That is gonna be some shed, fair play.

Dr_Colossus

Nice project and fair play for undertaking it and posting all the details and pics. Going to be serious weight on those epoxied leveling bolts and rubber ice hockey pucks, are they going to be able for the strain as look fairly light (10mm?). Any concerns with the rubber in the ice hockey pucks degrading over the years.

I realise the ground stays are at slightly different heights and angles but seems a shame to be reducing all that surface area down to a couple of washers which in turn concentrates all the weight onto two points of the flange rather than a more evenly distributed load including the pipe itself. Would chiseling some of the underside of the frame be an option to have it all sitting directly on the ground stays? Would involve a lot of lifting and additional time but that would be my take having no experience in the matter or researching how such a raised platform is normally secured.

Lumen

Dr_Colossus wrote: »

Nice project and fair play for undertaking it and posting all the details and pics. Going to be serious weight on those epoxied leveling bolts and rubber ice hockey pucks, are they going to be able for the strain as look fairly light (10mm?). Any concerns with the rubber in the ice hockey pucks degrading over the years.

I realise the ground stays are at slightly different heights and angles but seems a shame to be reducing all that surface area down to a couple of washers which in turn concentrates all the weight onto two points of the flange rather than a more evenly distributed load including the pipe itself. Would chiseling some of the underside of the frame be an option to have it all sitting directly on the ground stays? Would involve a lot of lifting and additional time but that would be my take having no experience in the matter or researching how such a raised platform is normally secured.

Yeah, I've thought a bit about this. The pucks aren't doing anything except gripping the timber since they've a threaded rod up the middle, with a nut slightly recessed on the top. So the structure is effectively resting on 18 M10 bolts (or 12 M10 threaded rods and 6 M10 coach screws), plus the washers.

In fact the coach screws aren't holding it up as I ran out of washers, but the plan is to add them back in. I could get penny washers for more cross section, although I'd still have the smaller conical washers as the weakest link so maybe not worth the expense.

I reckon the best job is to just fill the gap with epoxy grout later in the build, but I don't want to do that until I'm absolutely happy with it all. Plus I'd need maybe 2 buckets of grout and I only have one. But for 40 euro or whatever that's a poor excuse.

Anyway, if I do nothing but add some washers they'll be say 5000kg sitting on about 5000mm2 of steel (each M10+washer stack is about 300mm2), so that's 10N/mm2. Compressive strength of steel is well in excess of 100N/mm2.

I'd imagine the ground screws will move or some weak link in the chain will shear before the steel fails in compression.

edit: or I could just add more steel rod/washer stacks, as I have loads of holes free in the ground screw plates.

my3cents

I was going to suggest filling with epoxy if you are that worried about it.

You could also put in a wooden wedge from each side where there's a gap and tap away until the won't come out.

uck51js9zml2yt

How much did the groundscrews cost you?

Its giving me an idea for a poly tunnel!

Zebbedee

my3cents wrote: »

You could also put in a wooden wedge from each side where there's a gap and tap away until the won't come out.

+1 on this.
I'd prefer this method rather than epoxy.

Lumen

Aranza Careful Dingo wrote: »

How much did the groundscrews cost you?

Its giving me an idea for a poly tunnel!

€882.84 including installation.

Price list and pre-dimensioning tables attached. Krinner brochure with all the part descriptions is on various sites easily found via Google (massive doc so can't attach).

Lumen

Zebbedee wrote: »

+1 on this.
I'd prefer this method rather than epoxy.

I don't see how it's better than this, which is what I bought before I went with the rods and pucks approach:

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Everbuild-Epoxyset-106-Rapid-Cure-5Kg.html

EPOXYSET 106 RAPID CURE
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Compressive Strength >90N/mm2 (EN12190)
Tensile Adhesion Strength >3N/mm2 (EN1542)

That gives compressive strength over the six 140x189mm ground screw plates of 14 million newtons.

Rows Grower

Lumen wrote: »

I don't see how it's better than this, which is what I bought before I went with the rods and pucks approach:

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Everbuild-Epoxyset-106-Rapid-Cure-5Kg.html

EPOXYSET 106 RAPID CURE
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Compressive Strength >90N/mm2 (EN12190)
Tensile Adhesion Strength >3N/mm2 (EN1542)

That gives compressive strength over the six 140x189mm ground screw plates of 14 million newtons.

You wouldn't be an engineer by any chance would you?

Lumen

Rows Grower wrote: »

You wouldn't be an engineer by any chance would you?

Nope. I know my limitations!

I'm going to get an engineer to look at it, but only when I'm finished. The risk that the whole thing proves massively ill-conceived and unsound adds to the entertainment/motivation.

Rows Grower

Lumen wrote: »

Nope. I know my limitations!

I'm going to get an engineer to look at it, but only when I'm finished. The risk that the whole thing proves massively ill-conceived and unsound adds to the entertainment/motivation.

I was 99.9% sure you were to be honest.

It looks to me like you have covered every single detail so well that the world of engineering needs you.

I think I'd feel safe driving a motorbike over a rope bridge you'd made and I'm afraid of heights.

my3cents

Lumen wrote: »

I don't see how it's better than this, which is what I bought before I went with the rods and pucks approach:

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Everbuild-Epoxyset-106-Rapid-Cure-5Kg.html

EPOXYSET 106 RAPID CURE
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Compressive Strength >90N/mm2 (EN12190)
Tensile Adhesion Strength >3N/mm2 (EN1542)

That gives compressive strength over the six 140x189mm ground screw plates of 14 million newtons.

You have some adjustment with the wedges if necessary, they are a simple solution and you could use the coach bolt through the wedges to hold them together.

I have a couple of concerns with the screws. Primarily I don't think the ground anchors were designed to support a load directed directly to the screw holes. Secondly I suspect over time the screws will be forgotten and rust.

The top face of the ground anchors is obviously designed to support weight across the full top surface and and the screw holes are there to hold the support beams in place not to provide jacking points.

That said I think you are well within any tolerances for doing it the way you are.

Lumen

Any misconceptions that I know what I'm doing are about to die...

So, if like me you've wondered "what if I made a bearing pad from epoxy resin, colloidal silica, 00 pasta flour and a bit of sawdust", today is an exciting day! Otherwise, not so much.

I took a trip up to Ecological Building Systems in Athboy to pick up some Gutex Thermoflex insulation and a load of pro clima products for the next stage (Solitex Fronta Quattro fleecy weatherproof UV-proof membrane for the outside and over the joists, Tescon Vana tape for air tightness and membrane sealing, Orcon F for where need a seal but don't need to use tape). Great bunch of lads, very helpful and informative, and they've a nice showroom (thanks for the tip my3cents) showing various details like how to lap the membrane under the roofing boards.

Then....I decided to fill those gaps over the ground screw bearing plates, at least at the corners for now. It might not be necessary, but as was pointed out they're not really designed to take point loads and better safe than sorry.

I used up the tub of "Everbuild Epoxyset 106" on the first two-and-half screws. It wasn't quite as sticky as I'd like, you can see a slight gap at the top in the pics, but it was easy to push into the voids around the bolts using a gloved hand, trowelled well and for an epoxy product it was generally easy to work with. I've never done any mortaring of any kind before, and the results are...OK. Thing is, it's quite expensive for what appears to be just coarse sand and epoxy resin, so I weighed the quantities so I have the recipe:

Resin 400g
Hardener 175g
Aggregate 4400g

So that's about 15:2 ratio of aggregate to resin, by weight.

Then I decided to experiment making my own. I didn't have any sand in the house, and according to West Systems the best filler for adhesion is colloidal silica, which I have used in small quantities. Adhesion is good, right? So I mixed it to the usual peanut butter consistency and...it was super-super sticky. Too sticky for trowelling. So I added some flour in order to make it more doughy, but ended up with something very much like choux pastry, just a bit too runny and sticky. Anyway, it went in OK and I threw some sawdust over it to give is less of a plasticky finish. The results are....ugly. So assuming sand is the magic ingredient I think I'll brew up a batch of sandy resin and finish those consistently with the other screws.

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to nail some things into some other things.

Rows Grower

I probably won't sleep after seeing that last picture.

Bring on the nailing!

listermint

For me. I'd take them all out and level then with timber wedges and bolt it all down to the pad.


Over engineered there and giving yourself less of a solid result.

Many cases simple is better. Simple has been done since newgrange was put up.

Lumen

That epoxy mortar is going nowhere. It may outlive human life on earth. Anyway, on to less contentious matters...maybe.

Today was fun.

I had this idea a while ago to hang the floor under the frame, to maximize head height, expose the ring beam inside (which will be hidden on the outside by six inches of insulation, membrane, and cladding) and add drama/cozyness by more level changes (no TGD part M, cos it's a shed).

And the because the joists only need to be 3.3m wide, but come in 4.8m lengths, and the whole thing is on a 10% slope, I thought: why not cantilever them out into space to create a tree-level verandah, fall hazard or whatever?

The tricky bit was getting the gap right. The plan is to put use two layers of 12mm OSB as a sub-floor, slide it into the gap, leaving about 2-3mm remaining to close with airtightness gunk or tape. Once the OSB seams are taped (maybe the lower layer), the floor will be airtight, and I can then add a solid wood floor, probably the same 18mm larch cladding I'm using for the outside and possibly internal walls, butted against the beam. Not sure about expansion gaps, would T&G be a better bet?

Anyway, after a morning of getting it wrong, everything started slotting into place consistently level. Trick was to get the metalwork on the joists before nailing the joist+metalwork to the frame, and using a knocked up spacer jig thing to get the gap right.

The floor needs to be cross-braced with blocking. I think I'll do 1.5m strips of membrane + insulation, then blocking, then repeat.

So this is how it worked out...

(I know I haven't finished the nailing, I ran out of sheradized twist nails).

Big pics: https://imgur.com/a/SixWuSq

Rows Grower

How many helpers had you today?

Lumen

Rows Grower wrote: »

How many helpers had you today?

One.

Rows Grower

Fair play that is a serious quality of work!

I'm exhausted just looking at it.

my3cents

I'm interested in why you left the joists sticking out at what I assume is the back of the shed?

Steve

Just a suggestion:

While you are still at that stage, consider setting down a large concrete pad somewhere upon which you can put a timber leg to support a workbench with a vice on.

It's one thing I regret not doing and is a pain to retrofit.

Lumen

my3cents wrote: »

I'm interested in why you left the joists sticking out at what I assume is the back of the shed?

That's the right hand long side. The back gable is along the fence.

You mean by turning the metalwork around? Can't do that as there's a flange in the way. But if I'd gone for deeper joists that would have worked. In fact 175mm joists would have worked fine, I'd just have needed to dig another inch into the slope. They'd be stiffer too. I'll do that on the next shed :pac:

In any event, the joist extending 60mm or so provides a platform for the 80mm insulation to sit on with a small overhang to sort of round it all off when it's wrapped in membrane.

Lumen

Steve wrote: »

Just a suggestion:

While you are still at that stage, consider setting down a large concrete pad somewhere upon which you can put a timber leg to support a workbench with a vice on.

It's one thing I regret not doing and is a pain to retrofit.

Unfortunately this isn't going to be my workshop, it's a birthday present for my daughter. And her interest in bench vices is quite limited.

Zebbedee

Lumen wrote: »

I had this idea a while ago to hang the floor under the frame

Super idea to gain height.

I'm assuming you'll be stepping over the threshold and not cutting out the step?
If so, you and yours will get used to it quickly but you'll be fed up telling people to mind the step. Or you could rig up a sensor system to trigger a prerecorded message as in the London underground to 'mind the step'

Did you get the metal hangers made specially?

Lumen

Zebbedee wrote: »

I'm assuming you'll be stepping over the threshold and not cutting out the step?
If so, you and yours will get used to it quickly but you'll be fed up telling people to mind the step.

The step is going to be at the top of some kind of staircase, so it should seem natural enough.

Zebbedee wrote: »

Did you get the metal hangers made specially?

No, they're normal long-leg jiffy hangers. I got mine direct from Eurometals who I think supply the builders providers.

Lumen

In the cold light of day I think that verandah is going to have to go unless I can figure out how to finish it with a light, grippy deck (composite?) and stop rainwater from following the joist into the structure (maybe a raised lip and a load of sealant? seems dodgy).

It also complicates the membrane detail and whilst it's fine with a couple of adults standing on it now, in a few years time there are probably going to be a load of pissed teenagers dancing on it. There's too much to go wrong.

edit: maybe if I covered the exposed section of joist with bituminous roofing paint and taped it to the membrane that would do it?

FrancieBrady

Zebbedee wrote: »

Did you get the metal hangers made specially?

Never heard them called 'long leg jiffy hangers', we just call them 'joist hangers' and most hardware stores do them. I used them on my own decking.

Lumen

FrancieBrady wrote: »

Never heard them called 'long leg jiffy hangers', we just call them 'joist hangers' and most hardware stores do them. I used them on my own decking.

I've also seen them called "speedy" hangers. I think it's a hoover/Hoover/google/Google thing.

Since I have zero construction experience I never know the right names for things and end up calling them whatever they're called on websites, usually UK or US. It creates a lot of confusion!

FrancieBrady

Lumen wrote: »

I've also seen them called "speedy" hangers. I think it's a hoover/Hoover/google/Google thing.

Since I have zero construction experience I never know the right names for things and end up calling them whatever they're called on websites, usually UK or US. It creates a lot of confusion!

I described them in the shop as 'you know those steel thingy's you can hang wood from?'. Worked as well.

Lumen

So I've been thinking about windows.

Since I'll have a 50mm or so gap between the external insulation and the cladding, it seems I could mount windows outboard, screwed through the insulation into the studs.

So the build up would be:

- Stud
- Insulation
- Sealed double glazing unit slightly wider (say 10mm) than stud gap on all sides, framed by OSB of same thickness
- Another OSB frame, but with narrower opening same with as stud, to clamp the glass.
- Screw the whole thing through the insulation into the studs, tape to membrane.

Would this work?

edit: in case it's not clear, I'm proposing that the glass is pressed against the insulation, because the (woodfibre) insulation should have a bit of give in it to help give a good seal. This will not be an opening window, although I guess I could hinge it at the top, but then I'd need another layer of ply to retain the glass...

Lumen

Spent today on the floor insulation, supported by Solitex Quattro Fronta membrane.

Lower layer is 100mm woodfibre, upper layer is 40mm hemp.

As usual the ground screws made everything more complicated, hence the ugly taping detail. It actually looks OK from a distance, and this is all going to be covered by more insulation, membrane and cladding anyway, the main purpose is just to keep the insulation in place.

I think if I was doing this again I'd just put a layer of OSB underneath the joists, and the tape the membrane under that. The over-and-under membrane thing is tedious and awkward.

Also made a slotted floor support on the front gable, into which the OSB subfloor will sit, doubling as a trim panel from the outside.

There's probably a couple more hours of fiddling with the insulation and corner detailing before I can lay the actual subfloor.

my3cents

Whats to stop critters getting into the insulation and making a nest?

Lumen

my3cents wrote: »

Whats to stop critters getting into the insulation and making a nest?

That question has been burrowing away at the back of my mind for a while. Do you think I should nail insect mesh to the whole underside?

Eurometals do rolls of it but its very expensive.

Narrow weldmesh?

edit: how about this 13mm galvanized mesh?

https://www.raygrahams.com/products/86757-galvanised-wire-netting-50m-x-600mm-13mm-mesh.aspx

my3cents

Well we have rats in the roof of the garage in the insulation in the roof and we regularly get rats in the house roof. We aren't in a good spot next to a river and we keep chickens so rats are always around but they get into everything except the inhabited part of the house. Your shed is in a really nice spot for rats and they can easily get to the lower end so to be brutally honest I'd be surprised if you didn't get rats up in there.

I'm not really sure that 13mm mesh is quite small enough mice will definitely go through it and use it like a climbing frame so I'd go with something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/3ftx2ft-Panels-6mmx6mm-Galvanised-enclosures/dp/B00R7QWOGI/ with a 6mm / 1/4inch square mesh. Its also a lot easier to use than chicken wire.

Edit> I really think you missed a trick with those ground screws. If you could have kept the lowest end of the shed further off the ground then the ground screws would of worked like staddle stones.

Lumen

my3cents wrote: »

I really think you missed a trick with those ground screws. If you could have kept the lowest end of the shed further off the ground then the ground screws would of worked like staddle stones.

Can't do that due to maximum 4m height, unfortunately. I need the headroom inside.

my3cents

Lumen wrote: »

Can't do that due to maximum 4m height, unfortunately. I need the headroom inside.

You didn't need to build a cathedral

I'd also question the need for such a steep pitch on the roof (sorry I know I should have said earlier) iirc the standard garden shed roof has a pitch of about 23 degrees.

Lumen

my3cents wrote: »

You didn't need to build a cathedral

I'd also question the need for such a steep pitch on the roof (sorry I know I should have said earlier) iirc the standard garden shed roof has a pitch of about 23 degrees.

I've taken the pitch down to 31 degrees. Steeper pitch is required for slates and is better for structural ridge beam, and means I don't need membrane over the roof insulation.

Also, I need the height for the mezzanine floor :pac:

Lumen

I realise at least some of the stuff I'm posting is quite boring, but scrolling costs nothing, right? And it might be useful to someone doing a house renovation.

So, insulation materials...

The supposed benefits of wood fibre insulation (aside from its nesting appeal to woodland creatures, rats and so on) is that it has a high "decrement delay" i.e. smooths out temperatures over a daily cycle, is natural, non-toxic, biodegradable, vapour permeable, easy to handle and so on.

I used mostly 100mm Gutex Thermoflex in the floor, and topped up with 40mm of Thermo Hemp. Reasoning was simply because Thermoflex is only stocked in 100mm, and my joists are 150mm deep.

The Thermoflex is quite "dimensional", in that it has square edges, and only flexes enough to "cramp" between the studs/joists/rafters whatever. It smells fantastically woody and is non-itchy to handle, but needs a respirator even outdoors (I didn't use one in the morning and was coughing by lunch). It's great to fit between squared voids of exact dimensions, but is designed to "cramp" to only about 98-99% of its 370mm width, so even with a fairly narrow 42mm joist it's a bit of a squeeze into 400mm centres. The bigger issue is this "membrane over the joists" approach doesn't leave a squared void, it's round at the bottom, so there is a bit of insulation compression which is annoying. But the Thermoflex is really easy to separate into layers, or tear off chunks for awkward corners...

The Thermo Hemp is like a blanket, not at all dusty, but a complete b'stard to cut. I've blunted a pair of dressmaking shears already. It feels like a worse choice for stud/rafter fitting, because it won't really stay put, but it's OK for joists. I also don't know what the decrement delay of hemp is like.

Anyway, if I was doing this job again I'd either do the membrane-over-joists thing with thin sheets of Thermo Hemp because it folds nicely into non-square voids, or put mesh under the joists and use Thermoflex wood fibre.

Lumen

Oh, I think I found an Irish supplier of 6mm weldmesh rolls.

https://petcagewarehouse.com/product/14-mouse-proof-galvanised-aviary-weldmesh/

Apparently stainless is harder to chew through but galvanized is cheaper and according to various sources this 0.8mm/20g mesh is rat proof.

Also, insect mesh is not rat proof cos it's too fine, so I'm glad I didn't get that.

my3cents

If you have the patience put that wire in with very small staples. They aren't easy to get and fiddly to put in but do the job well. I've tired using staples put in with a pneumatic nail gun stapler and it wasn't a great success.

Lumen

my3cents wrote: »

If you have the patience put that wire in with very small staples. They aren't easy to get and fiddly to put in but do the job well. I've tired using staples put in with a pneumatic nail gun stapler and it wasn't a great success.

I was going to try Timber tek screws with washers, like these:

https://www.proweld.ie/product/timber-tek-screws-with-washers/

...put in using my right-angle drill attachment. And then when it gets too tight I'll just pull the mesh out to the rafter ends, wrap over the beams and more Tek screws.

my3cents

That will work.

hesker

I managed to staple on wire mesh farily easily using a €20 staple gun.

Mesh was ¼ x ¼ x 48" x 15m (22 Gauge, 0.64mm).

Zebbedee

Lumen wrote: »

I realise at least some of the stuff I'm posting is quite boring

Not at all boring for me.
Then again, I'm a bit of a shed 'anorak'

Rows Grower

I'm loving this thread, sheds are addictive and to watch one emerge from nothing with the best of everything is better than a good book.

Supposed to be a chance of a storm in about two weeks so bear that in mind.

Trasna1

Cool project. How are you proposing to do the joint between the posts and the ridge beam? Steel plate?

Is the rainwater being disposed of to a soak away? Could be tricky to lay pipes close to the soil screws without undermining them.

Lumen

I like hemp now, since I've figured out that it tears easily by hand in one direction and cuts easily in the other with a non-serrated kitchen knife.

So I finished the joist insulation, apart from tidying up round the edges.

Then it was time for the subfloor build.

First jack up the joists a bit, so that the 12mm OSB can be installed pre-tensioned.

Then mark the joist locations on the beam in pencil, cut a load of sheets (including cut outs for the ground screws), be careful to overlap in several directions.

Then put in a hundred or so decking screws, 6" spacing on edges, 12" spacing away from edges. I tried those Reisser cutter things but they were crap, so I went back to the decking screws.

Then fill the expansion gaps with Orcon F, and tape with Tescon (also tape the ground screw cutouts). The Orcon F was overkill but I wondered how much it would take. Answer: three tubes for the edges of one layer of subfloor. Probably won't be doing that for the wall and roof racking.

Then repeat the cutting for the second layer of OSB, continuing by desk lamp when night falls. Long day!

Subfloor feels good even before I've secured the second layer, be interesting to see what it's like when the screws are in and the jack is off.

Don't have any pictures of the final result cos it was pitch black out.

Next task: framing! At last. Plus tweaking the edge insulation, tidying the membrane and installing the rat mesh (when I get around to ordering it).

Need to get a move, on winter is coming....















https://imgur.com/a/O7wkP28

Lumen

Trasna1 wrote: »

How are you proposing to do the joint between the posts and the ridge beam? Steel plate?

Not sure yet. Maybe just really big screws.

Trasna1 wrote: »

Is the rainwater being disposed of to a soak away? Could be tricky to lay pipes close to the soil screws without undermining them.

Nope, I'll probably just run it along the boundary hedge. Have a load of 6" perforated pipe left over from fixing drainage elsewhere.