Draining Boggy Land

farmer2018

kerry cow wrote: »

In bog , we dig down till you meet the mud layer .
Pop in a 80 mm pipe , roll out a bale of 4x4 straw .pike it in on top of the pipe . Back fill .use a sewer pipe at the open end .work perfect .has been here for 25 yrs .and watch the water flow when it rains .
Place 3 m apart

Interesting, so you put straw over the pipe with no stone? JFC pipe I presume? Have you any pictures please.

PMU

Markcheese wrote: »

Has anybody cleaned out ,or jetted drainage pipe ?
Or is it pointless ?

3/4 inch water pipe and shove it in and out. 2 men working in sync can do a lot of cleaning

PMU

farmer2018 wrote: »

Any other thoughts on draining peaty soil? Other opinions welcome on what has worked for people.

it takes a year or two to dry out properly, so dont use heavy animals or heavy machines until the surface gets a "skin" ( firm surface)

older by the day

Have boggy land here too. I have a good bit turned. I did three acres last year. Mixed the clay and bog and heaped it up for a year, then level it out. You will see where the springs rise, quarry pipe and 4 inch stone, a little waste straw or hay on top of the stone to slow the silt going down. 2 1/2 acres perfect 1/2 one middling. It's expensive but it's the only long term method

farmer2018

Another question lads, straight 4 inch jfc pipe vs roll of 4 inch pipe?

Track9

kerry cow wrote: »

In bog, we dig down till you meet the mud layer.
Pop in an 80 mm pipe, roll out a bale of 4x4 straw .pike it in on top of the pipe. Backfill .use a sewer pipe at the open end .work perfect .has been here for 25 yrs .and watch the water flow when it rains.
Place 3 m apart

---

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away.
Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ????
Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

kerry cow

Track9 wrote:

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away. Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ???? Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

we use straw in the bog ,dig down to mud

Omallep2

Track9 wrote: »

---

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away.
Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ????
Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

Use sandstone not limestone

Bass Reeves

Track9 wrote: »

---

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away.
Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ????
Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

As Kerrycow and Omallep advise. Round sandstone is the best stone for drainage. However it is expansive. I say in West cork you would get crushed sandstone fairly compeditively. Put straw in top of the stone it forms a cake and prevents dirt and silt getting into the stone. There is a q product called builders paper you can get but never saw it.nit is supposed to be used when found a percolation area. Seen a lad use 1 meter wide rooked of that weed block as water will go to through it but if you ever need to do back at it it's a mess to pull out of the drains

Mooooo

Track9 wrote: »

---

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away.
Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ????
Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

Linking drains in to one outlet can keep a constant flow as well and keep things clear

JohnChadwick

Have a 4 inch drainage pipe coming out of what must be a spring underground, and it's constantly running. I want to use this water for cattle further downhill and not racking my brain how to get a 4 inch down to a 1 inch pipe. Does anyone know how to do this?

Sugarbowl

older by the day wrote: »

Have boggy land here too. I have a good bit turned. I did three acres last year. Mixed the clay and bog and heaped it up for a year, then level it out. You will see where the springs rise, quarry pipe and 4 inch stone, a little waste straw or hay on top of the stone to slow the silt going down. 2 1/2 acres perfect 1/2 one middling. It's expensive but it's the only long term method

How much an acre do you reckon you spent on it?

Murang

JohnChadwick wrote: »

Have a 4 inch drainage pipe coming out of what must be a spring underground, and it's constantly running. I want to use this water for cattle further downhill and not racking my brain how to get a 4 inch down to a 1 inch pipe. Does anyone know how to do this?

Build a small dam I have one here built in a drain with 2 4 inch soap blocks and the pipe is coming out underneath the little dam is only 4 inches high so excess water just flows over it

Good loser

Track9 wrote: »

---

Just saw the 3 meters apart. Wow, that's a good job. Here in W Cork, we tend only to tap into the springs & follow the ground. The next pipe could be 100 meters away.
Our problem is silting after about yr ten. The Stone & pipe become a Jelly like mud /slurry that blocks everything ????
Any advice? How can we keep the silt / boggy particles out of stone etc ??

Use Terram or WeedBlock as Bass says.

It comes in 1 metre wide rolls (and wider). The 1 m roll can be sawn in half to bring it to 0.5m wide and this is rolled out on top of the stone before backfill.

Always a success for me over 10 years now.

farmer2018

Would lads try clean stone with no drainage pipe?

tellmeabit

JohnChadwick wrote: »

Have a 4 inch drainage pipe coming out of what must be a spring underground, and it's constantly running. I want to use this water for cattle further downhill and not racking my brain how to get a 4 inch down to a 1 inch pipe. Does anyone know how to do this?

I have land drain from spring flowing into a blue barrel in the dyke with 3/4 attachment about 6 inches from the bottom of barrel to try stop and mud going into trough.
I should be heading to that field over next few day ,will try get pic. Have used 20ltr drums before on their belly if didn't have much fall to work with.

2smiggy

farmer2018 wrote: »

Would lads try clean stone with no drainage pipe?

110 mm perforated drainage pipe costs between 6/7 euros a metre. If you go to the bother digging and stoning it, you are better off putting in the pipe.

farmer2018

2smiggy wrote: »

110 mm perforated drainage pipe costs between 6/7 euros a metre. If you go to the bother digging and stoning it, you are better off putting in the pipe.

€12 a 6m pipe is the best quote I got.

2smiggy

farmer2018 wrote: »

€12 a 6m pipe is the best quote I got.

my mistake, just looked it up there, it was €9.25 an 6 metre length, but that was buying 400 pipes together and nearly 2 years ago since I got them.

Edit: 9.25 plus VAT

[Deleted User]

farmer2018 wrote: »

Would lads try clean stone with no drainage pipe?

Is it water bubbling up or surface water not soaking is the problem?

JohnChadwick

tellmeabit wrote: »

I have land drain from spring flowing into a blue barrel in the dyke with 3/4 attachment about 6 inches from the bottom of barrel to try stop and mud going into trough.
I should be heading to that field over next few day ,will try get pic. Have used 20ltr drums before on their belly if didn't have much fall to work with.

Pic would be great. Just wondering how to seal around the inlet and outlet pipe.

The dyke I have gets a good flow of water so any tips to keep the catch barrel in place would be a help.

Good loser

2smiggy wrote: »

110 mm perforated drainage pipe costs between 6/7 euros a metre. If you go to the bother digging and stoning it, you are better off putting in the pipe.

I only ever use 80 mm pipe.

Years ago did a 7 acre field with a high water table without pipes and it did fine.
We heaped 2" loads and 4" loads together and filled drains dug with a drainage bucket to within 7" of surface. Worked fine but took an awful lot of stone.

Can still see line of drains - slightly depressed in certain light conditions and burnt look in very dry weather.

Since then (15 plus years) have used pipe, stone and terram/weedout.

SuperTortoise

What's used to cap the pipe say if you wanted to drain a spring in the middle of a field?

Good loser

What do you mean by 'cap the pipe'?

tellmeabit

JohnChadwick wrote: »

Pic would be great. Just wondering how to seal around the inlet and outlet pipe.

The dyke I have gets a good flow of water so any tips to keep the catch barrel in place would be a help.

I just have a bit if white pvc pipe coming from a little mud square at the end of the drain pipe. Like 6 inches high. White pipe is just off being level maybe a 2 inch drop over the 10foot or however long they come. Then into the blue barrel. What are they 200ltr. That's on as few flat stones so water can flow around it. The weight Keeps it already. Have another roughter set up that I was getting cleaned out today. Will get pics of both tomooow. Sorry had forgotten about it

PoorFarmer

JohnChadwick wrote: »

Have a 4 inch drainage pipe coming out of what must be a spring underground, and it's constantly running. I want to use this water for cattle further downhill and not racking my brain how to get a 4 inch down to a 1 inch pipe. Does anyone know how to do this?

I have an IBC filling from a spring but there is a good fall where it is positioned. Have a 3/4" pipe adaptor on the outlet. The excess just flows out the top.
Will need a bigger plastic trough than you would normally use or else go with concrete as it will be very slow to fill and the cattle will knock it about scratching.

SuperTortoise

Good loser wrote: »

What do you mean by 'cap the pipe'?

If I ran a pipe from a spring into an open drain, what goes on the end of the pipe where the spring is to stop it filling up with clay?

White Clover

SuperTortoise wrote: »

If I ran a pipe from a spring into an open drain, what goes on the end of the pipe where the spring is to stop it filling up with clay?

Make a box around it with a few field stones.

Good loser

SuperTortoise wrote: »

If I ran a pipe from a spring into an open drain, what goes on the end of the pipe where the spring is to stop it filling up with clay?

Wrap the end of the pipe with that Terram or Weed Out. These membranes let the water through while holding back the clay.

Dinzee Conlee

SuperTortoise wrote: »

If I ran a pipe from a spring into an open drain, what goes on the end of the pipe where the spring is to stop it filling up with clay?

We used (on more than one occasion) an old coke bottle, make some holes in it with a hot nail or drill, fill with gravel, half inch pipe in the top, screw through bottle and pipe to hold it in place...

But, I have recently discovered that I am a rooter, so that solution may not be to everyone's taste