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Help wiring a Netatmo thermostat

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    #32
    flogen
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 10,243 Mod ✭✭✭✭flogen


    punisher5112 wrote: »
    How many wires are in the original set up?

    Four if you discount the bridging wire
    Is there a hot water zone or just the one clock does all so to speak.


    If one zone the netatamo is ideal.

    It’s all just one zone, no separate hot water etc.
    Basically you will have your 230v supply and blue neutral.

    These two should be connected to power the netatamo unit with the tales( cable ) attached then the WiFi unit plugs into the front of this when you fix it to a wall or timber fixing etc...

    You should then have the 2 control cables going to the boiler as this unit acts as a switch it's just replacing the old style clock which was the switch.

    As soon as you link it and put batteries into the thermostat you will be up and running and the stand alone thermostat will control the boiler whether it comes on or not.

    Ah, so you’re saying to wire the WiFi relay at the wall where my current controls are (rather than directly into the boiler) and then connect the thermostat wirelessly?

    Maybe a stupid question but how did you fix the WiFi unit to that wall? Did you just use the sticky pad that comes with it?


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    #33
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    I think thats the confusion calling the Wireless link to the Netamo thermostat a relay its a comms relay as opposed to a relay switch which is what the Netamo thermostat is.

    Lookis at that pic I would do the following, keep the 2 lives together from L and loose the bridging wire you need those 2 live feeds on one side of the Netamo thermostat and the switched live from terminal 4 on the other.

    If the Netamo switches 230v (I think it can from reading here and elsewhere) when calling for heat it the boiler will fire.


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    #34
    flogen
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 10,243 Mod ✭✭✭✭flogen


    tnegun wrote: »
    I think thats the confusion calling the Wireless link to the Netamo thermostat a relay its a comms relay as opposed to a relay switch which is what the Netamo thermostat is.

    Lookis at that pic I would do the following, keep the 2 lives together from L and loose the bridging wire you need those 2 live feeds on one side of the Netamo thermostat and the switched live from terminal 4 on the other.

    If the Netamo switches 230v (I think it can from reading here and elsewhere) when calling for heat it the boiler will fire.

    Okay... so I keep the two Ls together and put it in one terminal for the thermostat and then put 4 in the other? Given the Netatmo is battery powered I wasn’t sure if it should have a live going into it.

    In the above scenario I’d plug the wireless box (the Comms relay as you say) into the wall, close off the neutral wire that’s left loose and I should be good to go?


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    #35
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    You can keep your time clock as a switch if you like and have it as a back up to switch it all off.


    Live wire coming from board which is the permanent live and neutral along with it are connected to the brown and blue 230v tails of WiFi controls.

    Then the other two cables go to boiler.


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    #36
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    flogen wrote: »
    Okay... so I keep the two Ls together and put it in one terminal for the thermostat and then put 4 in the other? Given the Netatmo is battery powered I wasn’t sure if it should have a live going into it.

    In the above scenario I’d plug the wireless box (the Comms relay as you say) into the wall, close off the neutral wire that’s left loose and I should be good to go?




    Where your time clock is use the unit with 4 wires.

    2 are white which are the cables to connect to the cables coming from your boiler.
    2 others should be brown live and blue neutral.

    Connect these in a connector block and place in a junction box or leave the time clock on and drill a whole in the side or create a whole in the plaster board to bring the cable in through the rear.


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    #37
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    So in picture number 1 you will see the thermostat which acts now as your switch.
    When the temperature is set at say 19° it will not send a signal to turn on unless the temperature drops below you will actually here it click and then the boiler will get it's signal to the WiFi unit which you see better in picture number 2.

    I left the time clock and just connect the cables at the rear in its back box.


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    #38
    flogen
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 10,243 Mod ✭✭✭✭flogen


    punisher5112 wrote: »
    flogen wrote: »
    Okay... so I keep the two Ls together and put it in one terminal for the thermostat and then put 4 in the other? Given the Netatmo is battery powered I wasn’t sure if it should have a live going into it.

    In the above scenario I’d plug the wireless box (the Comms relay as you say) into the wall, close off the neutral wire that’s left loose and I should be good to go?




    Where your time clock is use the unit with 4 wires.

    2 are white which are the cables to connect to the cables coming from your boiler.
    2 others should be brown live and blue neutral.

    Connect these in a connector block and place in a junction box or leave the time clock on and drill a whole in the side or create a whole in the plaster board to bring the cable in through the rear.

    Not quite - whoever wired my old controls up used any old wire.

    As you’ll see in the picture linked below, I have a blue wire going to neutral, two brown wires going to live and another brown going to ‘4’, which I assume is a control wire for the boiler:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=438555&d=1515869102

    My controls are also in the sitting room, so whatever way I wire it I’ll need it to look neat... hence me trying to see how I’ll mount the WiFi relay if I do wire it that way


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    #39
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    When you wire it up keep the 2 brown in L together as the one that isn't live when you split is most likely going to boiler as frost protection if fitted.

    The brown at 4 is your switch cable to the boiler.

    Before you remove cables number them or mark them with a bit of tape or marker.

    Write down where each were so you don't get mixed up.


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    #40
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    flogen wrote: »
    Okay... so I keep the two Ls together and put it in one terminal for the thermostat and then put 4 in the other? Given the Netatmo is battery powered I wasn’t sure if it should have a live going into it.

    In the above scenario I’d plug the wireless box (the Comms relay as you say) into the wall, close off the neutral wire that’s left loose and I should be good to go?

    This is exactly what I would do, it has to switch the live so needs the permenant live(2 brown wires from L) on one terminal and the switched live (brown wire on terminal 4) . Plug in the wireless relay and follow the instructions for getting it on your network and stick a block connector on the loose neutral so that its not exposed. As punisher says mark or label the wires so that you can back out quickly if needed.


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    #41
    flogen
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 10,243 Mod ✭✭✭✭flogen


    Thanks all - I wired the thermostat as suggested and everything seems to be working as it should (once I got passed some DNS issues with the WiFi!).

    Appreciate all your help in figuring it out


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    #42
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    flogen wrote: »
    Thanks all - I wired the thermostat as suggested and everything seems to be working as it should (once I got passed some DNS issues with the WiFi!).

    Appreciate all your help in figuring it out

    Great result....

    You won't regret it and will actually save a nice bit on heating bills as you now have full control.


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    #43
    flogen
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 10,243 Mod ✭✭✭✭flogen


    punisher5112 wrote: »
    Great result....

    You won't regret it and will actually save a nice bit on heating bills as you now have full control.

    Hopefully - though being able to control it remotely and get away from cycling between too cold and too hot all the time were probably the main reasons for getting it. If it saves me a few quid that’s a bonus!


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    #44
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    flogen wrote: »
    Hopefully - though being able to control it remotely and get away from cycling between too cold and too hot all the time were probably the main reasons for getting it. If it saves me a few quid that’s a bonus!

    It is a great system and you will find it is something you will wonder how you done without.

    I had it in our last rental and it meant the other one didn't have the heating left on all day or when nobody was at home.

    Saved big time there.

    Also having the away function is great and then been able to switch it on at times you set or even if you know you will be back early you can have it on before you arrive back.


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