Home heating automation

savemejebus

Just wondering, i have a couple of rooms with two rads. No TRVs, just regular dumb valves (extra dumb as in they'll need replacing for any sort of TRV). If i want to eventually upgrade and use smart TRVs (drayton), will i need a smart TRV for each rad in a room?

i57dwun4yb1pt8

lots of great knowledge here , i have a wierd one though

does anyone know if its possible to buy wireless thermostat to replace a two wire old one ( honeywell type )

ive checked one wire i = brown is live all the time the other blue one seems to go live when the thermostat is active and switches the heating on ,

so it seems to be a mains level switch,

im not sure how you could power smart stat or wireless one , unless it was battery operated ( thats ok by me )
as im fairly sure the blue one is not a neutral.

i cant seem to find a battery operated mains level switch stat with wireless contol any where.

fran426ft

Marina Deep Pebble wrote: »

lots of great knoeledge here , i have a wierd one though

does anyone know if its possible to buy wireless thermostat to replace a two wire old one ( honeywell type )

ive checked one wire i = brown is live all the time the other blue one seems to go live when the thermostat is active and switches the heating on ,

so it seems to be a mains level switch,

im not sure how you could power smart stat or wireless one , unless it was battery operated ( thats ok by me )
as im fairly sure the blue one is not a neutral.

i cant seem to find a battery operated mains level switch stat with wireless contol any where.

A thermostat is just a switch so when it reaches a set temperature it closes the circuit providing power to whatever is connected to it. In most cases that's a zone valve which in turn has a switch which calls for heat from the boiler when opened.

There are many different options out there that can achieve this so it's down to budget and/or the level of DIY you want to get into.

It sounds like you want to relocate your temperature measurement so you'd be looking for a remote temperature sensor and a realy that is paired with it to replace the thermostat switch. This is how I'd likely go about it (i.e cheap option)

Assuming you don't have mains power at the temperature measurement location you're looking at a battery powered sensor. For something like this you want a low power device to maximize battery life so you'd be looking a something like a zigbee device. e.g. Sonoff SNZB-02 temperature and humidity sensor. To use the sensor you'd also need a ZigBee bridge (this is like a router for zigbee divices). That will get you your temperature measurement. Then you need to replace the thermostat switch with a smart relay. This will be going near the device that was previously connected to the thermostat so you shouldn't be a limited in terms of available power so this will be a mains voltage powered smart switch. If you went with a zigbee temperature sensor you could also use a ZigBee relay as you'd have a zigbee bridge but if you're sticking to the one manufacture of devices you can usually mix zigbee and wifi devices. Then you need some software that supports something like a smart scene to triggered events based on temperature input. If using Sonoff products that would be their ewlink software.

You could take a look at this video on youtube which give an overview of the sonoff ZigBee temperature sensor and how it can be used to control a switch with their software.

I don't actually use the sonoff ewlink software so I'm not 100% on this but I believe it requires an internet connection to the sonoff servers to operate the smart scenes for any automations you set up. I could be wrong though. I like sonoff devices as they are cheap and hackable. There are plenty of options out there for smart switches and sensors too.

deezell

planck26 wrote: »

Thanks again for this advice deezell. I took the plunge and got the first four TRVs, stat and wireless receiver installed in a couple of hours yesterday. (Have to say the installation process was a revelation - very impressive and reassuring for the non-expert...).

Coming back to the question of how to extend control to an electric rad in the garden room, your option B appeals to me most. Am I right in thinking that I'll need Tado's wired stat (not wireless) for this, and that I'll wire it to a mains relay that will go between the wall switch and the rad (or can it replace the wall switch)? Can you point me at an example of a suitable mains relay (it's a 2kW rad)? Greatly appreciate your help, many thanks.

A relay like this can be operated by the tado stat wired output. It would require a small consumer cabinet to mount it in.
https://www.electricalworld.com/en/ESR-20A-2-Pole-Contactor-Module-For-Domestic-Consumer-Units/m-2248.aspx
A smaller version like this coukd be mounted in a wall spur box or a deep socket box to interrupt the mains to the socket.
https://www.conrad.com/p/relay-flush-mount-finder-133182304300-1-maker-230-v-ac-12-a-1-pcs-1217460
Another idea would be to connect the stat wirelessly using IFTTT or another conditional smart things service, like Google home, to read it's on off status, and use that to operate a simple smart plug that will turn on and off the heater.

fran426ft

savemejebus wrote: »

Just wondering, i have a couple of rooms with two rads. No TRVs, just regular dumb valves (extra dumb as in they'll need replacing for any sort of TRV). If i want to eventually upgrade and use smart TRVs (drayton), will i need a smart TRV for each rad in a room?

Yes you'd need a TRV for each radiator you wish to control.

Alkers

fran426ft wrote: »

Yes you'd need a TRV for each radiator you wish to control.

Or a room thermostat in that room can turn on the entire heating, trvs in other rooms will ensure they don't heat up further than you've programmed for those rooms. I.e. you can get away with one room without having trvs, makes most sense if this is the most frequently heated room

deezell

Marina Deep Pebble wrote: »

lots of great knowledge here , i have a wierd one though

does anyone know if its possible to buy wireless thermostat to replace a two wire old one ( honeywell type )

ive checked one wire i = brown is live all the time the other blue one seems to go live when the thermostat is active and switches the heating on ,

so it seems to be a mains level switch,

im not sure how you could power smart stat or wireless one , unless it was battery operated ( thats ok by me )
as im fairly sure the blue one is not a neutral.

i cant seem to find a battery operated mains level switch stat with wireless contol any where.

Tado thermostat is battery operated, long life, and has a mains relay built in. You can just replace your old stat with it, DIY job. Netatmo also do a mains relay equipped battery powered stat. Both have versatile smart programming. There are other less expensive options out which are just basic stats with Internet access. Tado is ideal for you setup, and is loaded with Smart features.

deezell

fran426ft wrote: »

I recently added temperature sensors to my HW Cylinder using a Sonoff TH-16 hacked with Tasmota.......

.....It's been fun getting into the DIY home automation but it is definitely not for everyone.

Mighty stuff, awarded at least 4 Anoraks
🧥🧥🧥🧥

masterboy123

Hi All,

I have installed Drayton Wiser 3 Channel system today.
All seems to be working well but WiFi keeps dropping so I am unable control the system from my phone. There is a red light flashing underneath "Setup" once I switch my phone to homes WiFi network.
But the room thermostat seems to be working OK.
Any idea what may be the issue here?

Please see attached image :

Alkers

masterboy123 wrote: »

Hi All,

I have installed Drayton Wiser 3 Channel system today.
All seems to be working well but WiFi keeps dropping so I am unable control the system from my phone. There is a red light flashing underneath "Setup" once I switch my phone to homes WiFi network.
But the room thermostat seems to be working OK.
Any idea what may be the issue here?

Please see attached image :

How far did you get in the setup? I had the issue where my phone kept disconnecting from the hubs WiFi network as the phone deemed it bit to have any internet access. There's a setting in android not to drop the connection if a WiFi network has no connectivity, once I selected that for the wiser network it worked fine

deezell

Sounds like the phone is switching to mobile data as the hub has no internet connectivity, you can turn mobile data off, or turn off the "Switch to mobile data" setting in advanced Wi-Fi settings. phone should stay connected to the hub until you're ready to hand the hub over to your wifi. If the hub is still blinking at this step, try the WPS button on the router.

masterboy123

I get stuck in the last process only, Remote Access. I was able to remain connected to the hubR. Even I can control temperatures of 3 zones while I am connected to the HubR network. Once I switch to my home WiFi then hubR is no lounger found. Please see attached images.

deezell

Your phone is directly connecting to the hub, but the hub is not connecting to your router in the last phase. Are they very far apart? Is there a menu where you enter the router name and password to the hub, before you advance to the end. Usually the app can pass on these details directly from the phone. You could try pressing the WPS button on the router just before the last phase. You might need to get a Wi-Fi extender nearer the hub. I presume you have the installation sheet, page 16 gives the flashing red meaning. Other brands of cheap chinese stats have a similar problem as they only work with 2.4Ghx Wi-Fi, but 9n handover the router is only using 5Ghz, which has poorer range, so maybe turn this on in the router

masterboy123

The router and hub are maybe 5 meters apart with a wall in between. Yes, I did enter password for my home WiFi when it showed me 2 WiFi connections available, one for me and other one from my neighbour. So I selected my home WiFi on the Wiser App and it showed a green tick after chipping in the password. Then it asked for house address that also went well. It's the last step, Remote Connection where it fails and then there is a constant red light on HubR.

I have both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz options on my router. I have separated the two last night as I believe Wiser uses 2.4Ghz network. And I have tried the WPS button also but no luck.

I have contacted Wiser also and they are deleting my account so I can restart all over again.

Any other thoughts?

deezell wrote: »

Your phone is directly connecting to the hub, but the hub is not connecting to your router in the last phase. Are they very far apart? Is there a menu where you enter the router name and password to the hub, before you advance to the end. Usually the app can pass on these details directly from the phone. You could try pressing the WPS button on the router just before the last phase. You might need to get a Wi-Fi extender nearer the hub. I presume you have the installation sheet, page 16 gives the flashing red meaning. Other brands of cheap chinese stats have a similar problem as they only work with 2.4Ghx Wi-Fi, but 9n handover the router is only using 5Ghz, which has poorer range, so maybe turn this on in the router

deezell

masterboy123 wrote: »

The router and hub are maybe 5 meters apart with a wall in between. Yes, I did enter password for my home WiFi when it showed me 2 WiFi connections available, one for me and other one from my neighbour. So I selected my home WiFi on the Wiser App and it showed a green tick after chipping in the password. Then it asked for house address that also went well. It's the last step, Remote Connection where it fails and then there is a constant red light on HubR.

I have both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz options on my router. I have separated the two last night as I believe Wiser uses 2.4Ghz network. And I have tried the WPS button also but no luck.

I have contacted Wiser also and they are deleting my account so I can restart all over again.

Any other thoughts?

I can only recall this problem in terms of the 2.4 Chinese stats, and a similar problem I had with a Lenovo device. The stat problems were teased through recently on this thread, and also a few months back. In the Lenovo case I had to start from scratch by resetting the device with the usual pin in a hole reset switch. I don't know if that's an option on the hub. I wonder if the hub connects by 5Gh or 2.4 when you connect to it as an Access Point, you could check this on the phone Wi-Fi info. Make sure mobile data is off on the phone before trying again. I vaguely recall a post elsewhere regarding brands of phone, or someone claiming to have got it to work by using a different phone. Many devices use this connection method, phone to. Device AP, configure, type in router user/pass or allow the phone to harvest its own copy and pass them on, then handover to the device. It's obviously not making that last step, either wrong frequency or wrong ssid/pass. I'd expect the router to work at 5m. Unplug other devices such as alexa, echo, anything with Wi-Fi thats close to the device.

masterboy123

I have separated 2.4 Ghz and 5 GHz. Connected to 2.4 Ghz and changed the channel to 6 (1 to 11 are preferred channels). Drayton advised these steps.
Turned off all other devices using home WiFi and can see in routers admin that Wiser is connected. But when I reopen the Wiser app, there is an error that unable find HubR and I see red continuous light on the HubR.

Used partner's phone also now. Again stuck at last step of remote connection. No luck. Phone connects directly to Drayton but without WiFi and so I can't control it from phone.. The room thermostats are working well for boost function.

Waiting for a friend and will try using his phone as its a different brand phone.

deezell wrote: »

I can only recall this problem in terms of the 2.4 Chinese stats, and a similar problem I had with a Lenovo device. The stat problems were teased through recently on this thread, and also a few months back. In the Lenovo case I had to start from scratch by resetting the device with the usual pin in a hole reset switch. I don't know if that's an option on the hub. I wonder if the hub connects by 5Gh or 2.4 when you connect to it as an Access Point, you could check this on the phone Wi-Fi info. Make sure mobile data is off on the phone before trying again. I vaguely recall a post elsewhere regarding brands of phone, or someone claiming to have got it to work by using a different phone. Many devices use this connection method, phone to. Device AP, configure, type in router user/pass or allow the phone to harvest its own copy and pass them on, then handover to the device. It's obviously not making that last step, either wrong frequency or wrong ssid/pass. I'd expect the router to work at 5m. Unplug other devices such as alexa, echo, anything with Wi-Fi thats close to the device.

deezell

Did you try power cycling the router after the last app step to see if will connect to the router on power up?

This below from drayton support when you change routers, and hub is disconnected from the new router. I don't know if it helps. The only thing I see is the security type. When you get to the last step on the app, the hub should connect to the router, then your phone app will see the hub via the router, not diectly as in the setup.

1. Open the Wiser Heat app.
3. Wait for the login to fail.
4. Click on 'Have you changed your Wi-Fi router?'
4. Make sure your router is on 2.4 gHz, is on channels 1, 6 or 11 and has WPA2-PSK security type.
4. Follow in app instructions to connect to your Wiser HubR
You should now be back in the app home screen and able to use the system as normal.

Daisy30

Hi all
I hope I’m in the right place for advice but if not feel free to redirect me.
My boilers on/off switch isn’t working so I’ve been using the switch in the wall to turn it on and off manually. This is rapidly becoming painful so I’m looking to replace the wall plug with a timer, preferably something that comes with an app, but I’m having a hard time navigating the options. There is just the one zone and I really just need the ability to set a schedule. Can anyone point me to my options please?

deezell

Daisy30 wrote: »

Hi all
I hope I’m in the right place for advice but if not feel free to redirect me.
My boilers on/off switch isn’t working so I’ve been using the switch in the wall to turn it on and off manually. This is rapidly becoming painful so I’m looking to replace the wall plug with a timer, preferably something that comes with an app, but I’m having a hard time navigating the options. There is just the one zone and I really just need the ability to set a schedule. Can anyone point me to my options please?

When you say the boiler switch is not working. I'm presuming you mean the circular timer switch built into the boiler. You've had to set this to always on and use the main wall switch/plug.
In that case, you can go two routes, one with a timer on the main plug, or else a timer wired into the boiler such that the boiler still has power when the timer cuts the firing of the boiler. Certain boilers require this for proper operation to allow flue gases to be evacuated by the fan after the firing ends,otherwise it can smell.
As regards the timer, this can be as simple as this €15 smart plug adaptor, https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tcp-wissinwuk-smart-plug-white/231hk
which can be app controlled with schedules, or by Alexa or Google. Just plug it in, then plug in your boiler, and off you go. No installation required.
A more purpose designed heating timer might be a wall mounted single zone wireless receiver, which in turn has a wireless thermostat so that you not only have timed control of your boiler, but a stat in your living room say to keep the temperature at a steady level when the schedule is on. A kit like this Drayton single zone,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GS4WFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FMuYFb9HSD5FH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
comes with a wireless wall stat, and a receiver switch which you can get wired to control the power to the boiler plug, or wired internally to the boilers firing control terminal, or SL (switched live) terminal. This option is preferable if the boiler is designed to be powered all the time.
Netatmo is another brand of single zone wireless smart stat, same setup as the Drayton, about €150+ for the stat and receiver, but you can get it free and installed if you change electricity providers to Energia.
https://www.energia.ie/cosy-homes/netatmo-offers?&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WFcPYyIB4CMBbdaRuCyv5Y1-SlUQKZ2iDi1cECWLDOtoxxUGRpnlBUaAknXEALw_wcB

Irish Gunner

Wonder if anyone can assist

Have Netatmo Thermostat and Radiator valves. Set up comfort schedule so heating comes on if temperature drops below set temperature.

Have valves set up with temperature. The valve can control the thermostat to turn on.

However we have stove installed and house is as hot as the Gobi Desert.

So what's the best way of heat in rads not coming on if we light the stove?

We don't light it up all the time so like the option of keeping existing schedule.

Is it case of setting up two different schedules.

Still trying to figure it out

Brianb8802

Hi all,
I took the plunge and picked up the Drayton Wiser 3 zone kit in the Black Friday sales to replace my EPH 3 zone ( 2 Heating & 1 Hot Water).

I changed everything over yesterday which was very easy when following deezell's advice a few pages back, but today things seem to be a bit mucked up. When I call for heat on Ch2 or HW it always seems to call CH1 for heat aswell.

I have completed a few tests to see what's going on:

• When calling CH1, only CH1 comes on.
• When calling CH2, CH2 and CH1 come on.
• When calling HW, HW and CH1 comes on.
• When individually calling each zone the correct light on the front of the hub lights up. i.e. when i call hot water only the hot water light comes on.
• Checking the display on the boiler the radiator symbol lights up for CH1 and CH2, but when calling HW only the radiator symbol flashes and not the HW one.

The App doesn't report that CH1 is on when it comes on with the other zones.

Like i said I followed the wiring advice from deezell for changing EPH to Drayton i.e. 3 to 2, 5 to 1 and 7 to 3. The only thing I could see that was slightly different was that I have 2 neutral and 2 live wires to terminate.

Just wondering if anybody has come across something similar before? Its as if the wires are crossed somewhere but I can't see any cuts in the cables.

These are the before and after pics





My boiler is a Glow worm Energy 25s, and the house is 6 months old.



Any advice would be great because when I scheduled this mornings HW heating the house turned into an oven and the missus couldn't figure out why the place was getting so hot. To add to that she turned on the manual bypass by mistake which meant I couldn't turn things off remotely! An hour and half of heating later and the place was boiling!

deezell

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Wonder if anyone can assist

Have Netatmo Thermostat and Radiator valves. Set up comfort schedule so heating comes on if temperature drops below set temperature.

Have valves set up with temperature. The valve can control the thermostat to turn on.

However we have stove installed and house is as hot as the Gobi Desert.

So what's the best way of heat in rads not coming on if we light the stove?

We don't light it up all the time so like the option of keeping existing schedule.

Is it case of setting up two different schedules.

Still trying to figure it out

The stove can't be controlled by the Netatmo, when you light it, the heat has to go somewhere. Is it a boiler stove? If so it will have a relay that powers the circulation pump pushing the stove water around the rads. If the rooms heat past the Netatmo temperatures, then the Netatmo won't turn on the oil/gas boiler, but it can't halt the stove heat going to the non TRV open rads. What you can do though is have the stove thermostat wired to cut the live to the Netatmo receiver relay so it doesn't fire the boiler when the stove is supplying heated water, say above 50°.
With your current setup a TRV room will not allow stove heated water through until its schedule, and then will probably fire the boiler anyway. Using the stove stat to cur the live will allow the TRVs open on their schedule but get their heated water from the stove until is dies down, whence it will revert to using the oil/gas boiler.
If your stove is not a boiler stove, you could still install a manual room stat close to the stove to detect it's heat when lit and override the Netatmo.

masterboy123

Yes, i have tried the steps below but no joy

I have 2.4Ghz WiFi network with WPA2-PSK security type. On channel 11. Tried channel 6 before.

I have used a friend's phone also and made a new account with a hope it may work but no luck.

Not sure what to do now.

deezell wrote: »

Did you try power cycling the router after the last app step to see if will connect to the router on power up?

This below from drayton support when you change routers, and hub is disconnected from the new router. I don't know if it helps. The only thing I see is the security type. When you get to the last step on the app, the hub should connect to the router, then your phone app will see the hub via the router, not diectly as in the setup.

1. Open the Wiser Heat app.
3. Wait for the login to fail.
4. Click on 'Have you changed your Wi-Fi router?'
4. Make sure your router is on 2.4 gHz, is on channels 1, 6 or 11 and has WPA2-PSK security type.
4. Follow in app instructions to connect to your Wiser HubR
You should now be back in the app home screen and able to use the system as normal.

deezell

Brianb8802 wrote: »

Hi all,
I took the plunge and picked up the Drayton Wiser 3 zone kit in the Black Friday sales to replace my EPH 3 zone ( 2 Heating & 1 Hot Water).

I changed everything over yesterday which was very easy when following deezell's advice a few pages back, but today things seem to be a bit mucked up. When I call for heat on Ch2 or HW it always seems to call CH1 for heat aswell.

I have completed a few tests to see what's going on:

• When calling CH1, only CH1 comes on.
• When calling CH2, CH2 and CH1 come on.
• When calling HW, HW and CH1 comes on.
• When individually calling each zone the correct light on the front of the hub lights up. i.e. when i call hot water only the hot water light comes on.
• Checking the display on the boiler the radiator symbol lights up for CH1 and CH2, but when calling HW only the radiator symbol flashes and not the HW one.

The App doesn't report that CH1 is on when it comes on with the other zones.

Like i said I followed the wiring advice from deezell for changing EPH to Drayton i.e. 3 to 2, 5 to 1 and 7 to 3. The only thing I could see that was slightly different was that I have 2 neutral and 2 live wires to terminate.

Just wondering if anybody has come across something similar before? Its as if the wires are crossed somewhere but I can't see any cuts in the cables.

These are the before and after pics





My boiler is a Glow worm Energy 25s, and the house is 6 months old.



Any advice would be great because when I scheduled this mornings HW heating the house turned into an oven and the missus couldn't figure out why the place was getting so hot. To add to that she turned on the manual bypass by mistake which meant I couldn't turn things off remotely! An hour and half of heating later and the place was boiling!

On the face of it, it looks correct. You've substituted the wires correctly. You mention the boiler having ch and hw lamps. Are there zone valves built into the boiler? If your system was a standard 3 zone s plan, the boiler would not have a method of knowing what the call for heat was, HW or CH, unless the boiler was system boiler with its own valves for controlling flow.
Not withstanding that oddity, if your system has 3 seperate zone valves to direct the flow, the symptoms you describe exactly match a stuck or latched open CH1 valve. When called, it functions as normal, its relay calling the boiler, and hot flow going through the open valve. When the call is over, the boiler cuts, but the valve doesn't shut. Any call to CH2 or HW will open their valves, call the boiler, but also supply hot flow to CH1 as its valve hasn't closed. It sounds odd that you would get a fault coinciding with a change of controller, but check to see if the valve is latched, or stuck open.
Edit. The boiler symbols would be correct in showing the rad symbol for any call, as this boiler has no independent direct HW flow, just a single flow and return.

deezell

I also meant to ask, what is this manual bypass?

deezell

masterboy123 wrote: »

Yes, i have tried the steps below but no joy

I have 2.4Ghz WiFi network with WPA2-PSK security type. On channel 11. Tried channel 6 before.

I have used a friend's phone also and made a new account with a hope it may work but no luck.

Not sure what to do now.

It's just a temporary suggestion, but perhaps turn on Wi-Fi hot spot on one phone, use its ssid and pass to configure the hubr, then when you exit the apo on the configuring phone, see does the hubr connect to the hot spot AP. The connect the configuring phone back to the router ( or hot spot ap) and see if you now have a connection, and the flashing red is gone. There may be some conflict in the router, it may be trying to assign an ip address to the hubr that is already claimed, or maybe some security setting in the router is preventing or blacklisting the hubr connecting.

Brianb8802

deezell wrote: »

On the face of it, it looks correct. You've substituted the wires correctly. You mention the boiler having ch and hw lamps. Are there zone valves built into the boiler? If your system was a standard 3 zone s plan, the boiler would not have a method of knowing what the call for heat was, HW or CH, unless the boiler was system boiler with its own valves for controlling flow.
Not withstanding that oddity, if your system has 3 seperate zone valves to direct the flow, the symptoms you describe exactly match a stuck or latched open CH1 valve. When called, it functions as normal, its relay calling the boiler, and hot flow going through the open valve. When the call is over, the boiler cuts, but the valve doesn't shut. Any call to CH2 or HW will open their valves, call the boiler, but also supply hot flow to CH1 as its valve hasn't closed. It sounds odd that you would get a fault coinciding with a change of controller, but check to see if the valve is latched, or stuck open.
Edit. The boiler symbols would be correct in showing the rad symbol for any call, as this boiler has no independent direct HW flow, just a single flow and return.

Thanks deezel, the boiler is a system boiler with 3 EPH V221p valves in S plan. I thought the HW light came on with the EPH controller but since the wiring hasn't changed I must have been imagining it!

I had a look at the CH1 valve and it seemed to be ok, it was in auto and when I pushed the lever and left go and it returned back. I took the actuator off and turned the valve easily by hand, it only had a 1/4 turn but I presume this is standard. After putting it back together I tested the system and all seems to be back to normal again, so it must have just been stuck open like you said. Fingers crossed it will stay unstuck for now. Thanks again for the clear advice, it was an easy fix once you had laid it all out like you did.

Brianb8802

deezell wrote: »

I also meant to ask, what is this manual bypass?

On the hub if you hold the heating button in for 3 seconds it goes into a manual override for 2hrs. I wasn't able to stop this on the app.

Same for the water but this override last 1hr.

The manual says it is a failsafe incase the TRVs or thermostats become unresponsive.

masterboy123

It was a good suggestion and I saw light at the end of the tunnel but again no joy.

Made WiFi hot-spot from partners phone. The HubR didn't find the hot-spot but there was an option to manually write WiFi name and password, I did that and after 30 seconds it lost connection to HubR which was previously successful. So it didn't connect to WiFi hot-spot at all

But last night when I turned on the room thermostat, then I was able to use app successfully via home WiFi for about 1 min and again this morning. After about a min it starts searching hubR. Even when I go to Advanced settings of WiFi, I can see that Wiser is paired with home WiFi network.

It seems hubR is not able to sustain long term connection with home WiFi and keeps dropping but it is connected to home WiFi.

Could it be possible that HubR is defective and if I should try with another unit?

See attached image :

deezell wrote: »

It's just a temporary suggestion, but perhaps turn on Wi-Fi hot spot on one phone, use its ssid and pass to configure the hubr, then when you exit the apo on the configuring phone, see does the hubr connect to the hot spot AP. The connect the configuring phone back to the router ( or hot spot ap) and see if you now have a connection, and the flashing red is gone. There may be some conflict in the router, it may be trying to assign an ip address to the hubr that is already claimed, or maybe some security setting in the router is preventing or blacklisting the hubr connecting.

deezell

masterboy123 wrote: »

It was a good suggestion and I saw light at the end of the tunnel but again no joy.

Made WiFi hot-spot from partners phone. The HubR didn't find the hot-spot but there was an option to manually write WiFi name and password, I did that and after 30 seconds it lost connection to HubR which was previously successful. So it didn't connect to WiFi hot-spot at all

But last night when I turned on the room thermostat, then I was able to use app successfully via home WiFi for about 1 min and again this morning. After about a min it starts searching hubR. Even when I go to Advanced settings of WiFi, I can see that Wiser is paired with home WiFi network.

It seems hubR is not able to sustain long term connection with home WiFi and keeps dropping but it is connected to home WiFi.

Could it be possible that HubR is defective and if I should try with another unit?

See attached image :

Seems like return is the only option. Without a direct connection, other than when using the hubr as an AP to the app, there is no direct way to say reinstall firmware or allow Wiser support to Connect remotely to it. I don't see any instructions for a factory reset of the hub, except a reference to it in Drayton support that it be done only in conjunction with support, but no how to instructions. Its probably pointless, but disconnecting it and trying it out with just mains power in a different location beside the router would be my last effort before boxing up and returning. You could also go to a friend's house, just to try a different router. It's like its rejecting the network, as if it had a different one already in its memory. I cant see that attached image btw.