Marina Deep Pebble wrote: » lots of great knoeledge here , i have a wierd one though does anyone know if its possible to buy wireless thermostat to replace a two wire old one ( honeywell type ) ive checked one wire i = brown is live all the time the other blue one seems to go live when the thermostat is active and switches the heating on , so it seems to be a mains level switch, im not sure how you could power smart stat or wireless one , unless it was battery operated ( thats ok by me ) as im fairly sure the blue one is not a neutral. i cant seem to find a battery operated mains level switch stat with wireless contol any where.
planck26 wrote: » Thanks again for this advice deezell. I took the plunge and got the first four TRVs, stat and wireless receiver installed in a couple of hours yesterday. (Have to say the installation process was a revelation - very impressive and reassuring for the non-expert...). Coming back to the question of how to extend control to an electric rad in the garden room, your option B appeals to me most. Am I right in thinking that I'll need Tado's wired stat (not wireless) for this, and that I'll wire it to a mains relay that will go between the wall switch and the rad (or can it replace the wall switch)? Can you point me at an example of a suitable mains relay (it's a 2kW rad)? Greatly appreciate your help, many thanks.
savemejebus wrote: » Just wondering, i have a couple of rooms with two rads. No TRVs, just regular dumb valves (extra dumb as in they'll need replacing for any sort of TRV). If i want to eventually upgrade and use smart TRVs (drayton), will i need a smart TRV for each rad in a room?
fran426ft wrote: » Yes you'd need a TRV for each radiator you wish to control.
Marina Deep Pebble wrote: » lots of great knowledge here , i have a wierd one though does anyone know if its possible to buy wireless thermostat to replace a two wire old one ( honeywell type ) ive checked one wire i = brown is live all the time the other blue one seems to go live when the thermostat is active and switches the heating on , so it seems to be a mains level switch, im not sure how you could power smart stat or wireless one , unless it was battery operated ( thats ok by me ) as im fairly sure the blue one is not a neutral. i cant seem to find a battery operated mains level switch stat with wireless contol any where.
fran426ft wrote: » I recently added temperature sensors to my HW Cylinder using a Sonoff TH-16 hacked with Tasmota....... .....It's been fun getting into the DIY home automation but it is definitely not for everyone.
masterboy123 wrote: » Hi All, I have installed Drayton Wiser 3 Channel system today. All seems to be working well but WiFi keeps dropping so I am unable control the system from my phone. There is a red light flashing underneath "Setup" once I switch my phone to homes WiFi network. But the room thermostat seems to be working OK. Any idea what may be the issue here? Please see attached image :
deezell wrote: » Your phone is directly connecting to the hub, but the hub is not connecting to your router in the last phase. Are they very far apart? Is there a menu where you enter the router name and password to the hub, before you advance to the end. Usually the app can pass on these details directly from the phone. You could try pressing the WPS button on the router just before the last phase. You might need to get a Wi-Fi extender nearer the hub. I presume you have the installation sheet, page 16 gives the flashing red meaning. Other brands of cheap chinese stats have a similar problem as they only work with 2.4Ghx Wi-Fi, but 9n handover the router is only using 5Ghz, which has poorer range, so maybe turn this on in the router
masterboy123 wrote: » The router and hub are maybe 5 meters apart with a wall in between. Yes, I did enter password for my home WiFi when it showed me 2 WiFi connections available, one for me and other one from my neighbour. So I selected my home WiFi on the Wiser App and it showed a green tick after chipping in the password. Then it asked for house address that also went well. It's the last step, Remote Connection where it fails and then there is a constant red light on HubR. I have both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz options on my router. I have separated the two last night as I believe Wiser uses 2.4Ghz network. And I have tried the WPS button also but no luck. I have contacted Wiser also and they are deleting my account so I can restart all over again. Any other thoughts?
deezell wrote: » I can only recall this problem in terms of the 2.4 Chinese stats, and a similar problem I had with a Lenovo device. The stat problems were teased through recently on this thread, and also a few months back. In the Lenovo case I had to start from scratch by resetting the device with the usual pin in a hole reset switch. I don't know if that's an option on the hub. I wonder if the hub connects by 5Gh or 2.4 when you connect to it as an Access Point, you could check this on the phone Wi-Fi info. Make sure mobile data is off on the phone before trying again. I vaguely recall a post elsewhere regarding brands of phone, or someone claiming to have got it to work by using a different phone. Many devices use this connection method, phone to. Device AP, configure, type in router user/pass or allow the phone to harvest its own copy and pass them on, then handover to the device. It's obviously not making that last step, either wrong frequency or wrong ssid/pass. I'd expect the router to work at 5m. Unplug other devices such as alexa, echo, anything with Wi-Fi thats close to the device.
Daisy30 wrote: » Hi all I hope I’m in the right place for advice but if not feel free to redirect me. My boilers on/off switch isn’t working so I’ve been using the switch in the wall to turn it on and off manually. This is rapidly becoming painful so I’m looking to replace the wall plug with a timer, preferably something that comes with an app, but I’m having a hard time navigating the options. There is just the one zone and I really just need the ability to set a schedule. Can anyone point me to my options please?
Irish Gunner wrote: » Wonder if anyone can assist Have Netatmo Thermostat and Radiator valves. Set up comfort schedule so heating comes on if temperature drops below set temperature. Have valves set up with temperature. The valve can control the thermostat to turn on. However we have stove installed and house is as hot as the Gobi Desert. So what's the best way of heat in rads not coming on if we light the stove? We don't light it up all the time so like the option of keeping existing schedule. Is it case of setting up two different schedules. Still trying to figure it out
deezell wrote: » Did you try power cycling the router after the last app step to see if will connect to the router on power up? This below from drayton support when you change routers, and hub is disconnected from the new router. I don't know if it helps. The only thing I see is the security type. When you get to the last step on the app, the hub should connect to the router, then your phone app will see the hub via the router, not diectly as in the setup.1. Open the Wiser Heat app. 3. Wait for the login to fail. 4. Click on 'Have you changed your Wi-Fi router?' 4. Make sure your router is on 2.4 gHz, is on channels 1, 6 or 11 and has WPA2-PSK security type. 4. Follow in app instructions to connect to your Wiser HubR You should now be back in the app home screen and able to use the system as normal.
Brianb8802 wrote: » Hi all, I took the plunge and picked up the Drayton Wiser 3 zone kit in the Black Friday sales to replace my EPH 3 zone ( 2 Heating & 1 Hot Water). I changed everything over yesterday which was very easy when following deezell's advice a few pages back, but today things seem to be a bit mucked up. When I call for heat on Ch2 or HW it always seems to call CH1 for heat aswell. I have completed a few tests to see what's going on: When calling CH1, only CH1 comes on. When calling CH2, CH2 and CH1 come on. When calling HW, HW and CH1 comes on. When individually calling each zone the correct light on the front of the hub lights up. i.e. when i call hot water only the hot water light comes on. Checking the display on the boiler the radiator symbol lights up for CH1 and CH2, but when calling HW only the radiator symbol flashes and not the HW one. The App doesn't report that CH1 is on when it comes on with the other zones. Like i said I followed the wiring advice from deezell for changing EPH to Drayton i.e. 3 to 2, 5 to 1 and 7 to 3. The only thing I could see that was slightly different was that I have 2 neutral and 2 live wires to terminate. Just wondering if anybody has come across something similar before? Its as if the wires are crossed somewhere but I can't see any cuts in the cables. These are the before and after pics My boiler is a Glow worm Energy 25s, and the house is 6 months old. Any advice would be great because when I scheduled this mornings HW heating the house turned into an oven and the missus couldn't figure out why the place was getting so hot. To add to that she turned on the manual bypass by mistake which meant I couldn't turn things off remotely! An hour and half of heating later and the place was boiling!
masterboy123 wrote: » Yes, i have tried the steps below but no joy I have 2.4Ghz WiFi network with WPA2-PSK security type. On channel 11. Tried channel 6 before. I have used a friend's phone also and made a new account with a hope it may work but no luck. Not sure what to do now.
deezell wrote: » On the face of it, it looks correct. You've substituted the wires correctly. You mention the boiler having ch and hw lamps. Are there zone valves built into the boiler? If your system was a standard 3 zone s plan, the boiler would not have a method of knowing what the call for heat was, HW or CH, unless the boiler was system boiler with its own valves for controlling flow. Not withstanding that oddity, if your system has 3 seperate zone valves to direct the flow, the symptoms you describe exactly match a stuck or latched open CH1 valve. When called, it functions as normal, its relay calling the boiler, and hot flow going through the open valve. When the call is over, the boiler cuts, but the valve doesn't shut. Any call to CH2 or HW will open their valves, call the boiler, but also supply hot flow to CH1 as its valve hasn't closed. It sounds odd that you would get a fault coinciding with a change of controller, but check to see if the valve is latched, or stuck open. Edit. The boiler symbols would be correct in showing the rad symbol for any call, as this boiler has no independent direct HW flow, just a single flow and return.
deezell wrote: » I also meant to ask, what is this manual bypass?
deezell wrote: » It's just a temporary suggestion, but perhaps turn on Wi-Fi hot spot on one phone, use its ssid and pass to configure the hubr, then when you exit the apo on the configuring phone, see does the hubr connect to the hot spot AP. The connect the configuring phone back to the router ( or hot spot ap) and see if you now have a connection, and the flashing red is gone. There may be some conflict in the router, it may be trying to assign an ip address to the hubr that is already claimed, or maybe some security setting in the router is preventing or blacklisting the hubr connecting.
masterboy123 wrote: » It was a good suggestion and I saw light at the end of the tunnel but again no joy. Made WiFi hot-spot from partners phone. The HubR didn't find the hot-spot but there was an option to manually write WiFi name and password, I did that and after 30 seconds it lost connection to HubR which was previously successful. So it didn't connect to WiFi hot-spot at all But last night when I turned on the room thermostat, then I was able to use app successfully via home WiFi for about 1 min and again this morning. After about a min it starts searching hubR. Even when I go to Advanced settings of WiFi, I can see that Wiser is paired with home WiFi network. It seems hubR is not able to sustain long term connection with home WiFi and keeps dropping but it is connected to home WiFi. Could it be possible that HubR is defective and if I should try with another unit? See attached image :
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://w6.vanillicon.com/v2/6b1975299c8e5d4897a60061c4f145b7.svg)
