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Home heating automation
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Is replacing this with a smart TRV really just an unscrew and replace job?
It's pretty solid and I'm scared to end up with a fountain!
Yes, its the top chrome hand nut. Its probably stuck a bit. If you can't get it off by hand, squirt a bit if wd40 on the top and up and under, let it soak in for a while. Very light anti clockwise pressure with a vice grips or a pipe wrench if its still stiff.0 -
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i have 3 zone heating system + hot water. pic of thermostat and control unit attached.
Zone 1 - living area
Zone 2 - downstairs bedrooms
Zone 3 - upstairs
Zone 4 - hot water
would a Tado wired system be compatible with this or are there alternatives?
Do I just install the thermos and set the control unit to on for the heating zones and run it through the app then?
i spoke to my plumber the other day and he's a bit of a luddite / and or just doesn't understand them or the need for them so he was no help.
thanks for the advice
Just on the luddite part, a previous plumber I had years ago was the same. I had asked about our system and was thinking on getting the Nest at the time. He said they were waste of money and wouldn't do much for the system etc... Pretty much laughed at the idea.
Also, I think some people focus on the return on investment, how long it takes to pay for itself. For me that's only part of it. A big part is functionality and convenience.
Setting our current timer is a PITA, this will be much easier. Heading home some evenings wishing we could stick the heat on so house isn't freezing. Or being late and the house being heated unnecessarily. Checking temperature in young sons room and having to go down and boost the heat etc.
Oh and I do love my tech so there is that
The biggest change in this house will be shifting from time focused to temperature focused. By that I mean, here its always "Big cold in here, go on boost the heat there" which will boost for an hour and heat other rooms unnecessarily. Where as once we get this is its just figure the comfortable temperature and set it for whatever times in the rooms required. May take a while to get right though.0 -
Spark tells me that the current system doesn't have any controls at all from the valves to the burner.
So when it's on, the burner is always on. There isn't any "call to heat" from the house side at all.
The switches just turn each zone off and on rather than calling for heat when needed.
He's addressing it anyway. Will be worth it.
I got a fill of oil today. Have gone through about 120L a week since mid December...
Same as mine. Open the box in the hotpress and the two wires that are meant to be wired up to call for heat and just lying there cut. (See image attached - grey/orange wire)
Mentioned before we must have had the same dude who wired this up ha! Same timer, switches and now this. You in Donegal by any chance? 0 -
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Question, if a room TRV calls for heat, I assume it opens the relevant zone valve ?
My wife does love scorching water...
I've set it initially for an hour in the morning and a few hours in the early afternoon. Once the sun picks up I'll reduce that to allow the solar to heat it a bit.
As for the zones yeah the room radiator stats are set on the same channel as the room stat. So the living room can still call for heat even if the room stat in the hallway doesn't.
Downside currently is that the other radiators don't fit the new TRVs. The old chrome nut is slightly smaller so when I screw on the new one it is too loose.
Presumably there is an adaptor I can get?0 -
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Yes, looks like old 28mm valve bodies. Most new trvs are 30mm, hence the loose fit.My wife does love scorching water...
I've set it initially for an hour in the morning and a few hours in the early afternoon. Once the sun picks up I'll reduce that to allow the solar to heat it a bit.
As for the zones yeah the room radiator stats are set on the same channel as the room stat. So the living room can still call for heat even if the room stat in the hallway doesn't.
Downside currently is that the other radiators don't fit the new TRVs. The old chrome nut is slightly smaller so when I screw on the new one it is too loose.
Presumably there is an adaptor I can get?
Heres one source.https://lowenergysupermarket.com/product/radiator-adapter-for-trv-28mm-to-30mm0 -
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Run your finger along the schedule graph for the devices, see if there us a dropout on any, which may have left the boiler switching device, (stat or ext kit), running in its last know setting.
Thanks for the reply @Deezell. There was a drop out alright that might have accounted for it. It's a pity that the Receiver unit does not show it's status on the app. The radio side of the bridge seems very unreliable from what I have experienced so far. Other than that the Tado system is great. The idea that the support is only via email is also a bit of a pain.0 -
Right lads, I apologise... brain dump incoming!
Question regarding my back boiler heating. The thermostat is on the flow pipe into the cylinder. This fires the pump when hot enough. The pump arrow points in the direction of the return pipe. I.e the pipe coming out of the pump joins the return pipe from the cylinder that goes back to the boiler. I’d have thought it would pump the hot water around. I just can’t wrap my head around where the boiler hot water goes and how it links with the oil boiler hot water!
How many radiators would need to be left open to dissipate heat in each zone?
With the Tado can you use it in a fairly manual mode? Say you set the temperatures for each room but don’t set timers/schedule. Can you tell it to boost heat in a room or rooms then? Without letting it call for heat automatically.
? Likely that we’d just go all in from the beginning with auto etc but wondering about this if the wife gets anxious Also wondering how Tado controls the hot water and sets temperature etc.
How’s yours system going now DrPhilG?
Oh yeah and finally, I’ve never once adjusted the oil boiler temperature on the boiler itself. Do any of you?0 -
That sounds right, if the cylinder return goes directly into the back boiler, cylnder flow is by gravity, with no impediment on it's path. The pump comes on for CH and and pumps CH return into the back boiler, joining cylinder return. This tee fitting should be a venturi type, so that the pumped cold return from the rads would 'draw' the cooled return from the cylinder coil, rather than pushing it back up cylinder coil, which would cool it and the HW to a point. This veturi tee may also be fitted where the hot flow out from the back boiler spilits to the cylinder and the radiators.Right lads, I apologise... brain dump incoming!
Question regarding my back boiler heating. The thermostat is on the flow pipe into the cylinder. This fires the pump when hot enough. The pump arrow points in the direction of the return pipe. I.e the pipe coming out of the pump joins the return pipe from the cylinder that goes back to the boiler. I’d have thought it would pump the hot water around. I just can’t wrap my head around where the boiler hot water goes and how it links with the oil boiler hot water!
Just a couple, if the rads TRVs are already open on schedule if they are smart TRVs, they will also benefit.How many radiators would need to be left open to dissipate heat in each zone?
You can install smartTRVs to open on a schedule, but without association to a stat to call the boiler.With the Tado can you use it in a fairly manual mode? Say you set the temperatures for each room but don’t set timers/schedule. Can you tell it to boost heat in a room or rooms then? Without letting it call for heat automatically.
? Likely that we’d just go all in from the beginning with auto etc but wondering about this if the wife gets anxious Also wondering how Tado controls the hot water and sets temperature etc.
Tado just times HW events, it doesnt have a HW stat in its armoury, you would just use a mechanical cylinder stat. It can only monitor HW temp on direct HW combi boilers which have OpenTherm digital control.
How’s yours system going now DrPhilG?
Oh yeah and finally, I’ve never once adjusted the oil boiler temperature on the boiler itself. Do any of you?
Yes, around 60-70°0 -
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i have 3 zone heating system + hot water. pic of thermostat and Sauter control unit attached.
Zone 1 - living area
Zone 2 - downstairs bedrooms
Zone 3 - upstairs
Zone 4 - hot water
would a Tado wired system be compatible with this or are there alternatives?
Do I just install the thermos and set the control unit to on for the heating zones and run it through the app then?
i spoke to my plumber the other day and he's a bit of a luddite / and or just doesn't understand them or the need for them so he was no help.
thanks for the advice
anyone? (not tied into Tado either in case anyone would recommend any other options... had spotted their offer on refurbed kits but missed out on that, could wait for it to come up again)
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