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Home heating automation
Comments
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OK, there's 5 wires to be transferred from the Climote to the Wiser. L, N, 2, 4 and 6. There are three wires in the Climote which are jumpers to other terminals in the Climote, from L to 1 to 2 to 5. These are discarded.
The remaining 5 wires coming in from the wall are swapped;
Climote to Wiser
L to L
N to N
2 to 1
4 to 2
6 to 3
Tare care, power off at the board. Use a phase tester screwdriver to tip every terminal to check for live. Phase tester screwdriver is the best 2 or 3 euros you'll ever spend.
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You mean someone replaced your heating controls with those EPH antiques? I thought they looked shiny new. Diy easy enough. Just swap the base plates, I'll pop up a pic of the eph wiring. You can just turn up the eph stats full, or remove and link their their two wires connections together.
EPH wiring
N and L on the EPH baseplate to N and L on the Wiser baseplate, the switched lives to the zones from 3 and 4 on the EPH go to 1 and 3 on the Wiser baseplate.
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Hi,
I am getting a Worcester Bosch 4000 installed to tomorrow to replace an old Vokera boiler.
Currently I have a Danfoss Programmer FP750si and two Danfoss Thermostats (I've included pictures below).
I've read lots about EasyControl and EMS2 and how your average device such as Tado cannot speak to the boiler so that it functions to the best of its capabilities. I don't plan on upgrading my system tomorrow during the install but would like to in the very near future to something smart that I can control when I am not at home at the minimum.
As part of my setup I have two zones for heating, one downstairs and one upstairs, and then hot water direct from the boiler. I've never used any features of the programmer to set times etc. I think if I use WB devices I will need a CT200 and possibly two of their thermostats. From what I have read you can only have one CT200 and it can only control one zone so you need the CT200 to act as a controller of sorts and the two thermostats wired in place of the existing thermostats.
Cost is a limiting factor and I dont want to place smart TRV's on each radiator either. Personally I would prefer wireless thermostats as currently for some reason they have installed the downstairs thermostat almost above a radiator and for that reason I think that rules out WB devices.
Any help would be appreciated here and I can add more information if you need anything or more pictures of the valves themselves.
Thanks
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You won't notice the modulation until the stat approaches target temperature. It will go into a firing pattern of on/off that gently achieves room temperature, and it will continue this to maintain an accurate steady temperature. If you look at a room or zone graph and run your finger along the measured temperature trace you will see the small data frame appear with the set and measured temperature, and the three line boiler firing symbol. Thus will vary from 0 to three lines, which corresponds to the firing pattern of the stat. It will alternate between zero and one line to maintain temperature in short bursts, but will jump to two lines when it detects a higher rate of temperature drop, or an approaching increase in set temperature on the schedule. Firing the boiler in a series of short bursts ensures it won't overshoot, and also keeps flow temperature lower and thus condensing efficiency higher. You can also see the firing pattern in 4 different shades from white to dark grey if you tap the blue firing icon. These are from a very cold day in January. The dotted blue line is humidity, turned on by pressing the droplet button.
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