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Heating System combination for new build

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Ray Donovan


    mjp wrote: »
    Is there much of a difference between pumps from different companies. I'm getting spec'd anywhere between 9 and 15kw pumps from different suppliers. Each them contradicting each other and saying theirs is most efficient. Struggling to pick out the spoofers from the most genuine as want to look past price alone when choosing.

    Did you not get a DEAP assessment done by your engineer pre-build? He should have outlined on that the correct size pump. I've read that a pump too big can lead to a lot of difficulties as it continually kicking on and off can harm it and actually lead to bigger energy bills. I'm definitely no expert however.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,262 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Ray, good figures. the best use of the system is on the shoulders of the year, in terms of saving. But your winter bills should be low too. Keep in touch on that please.

    Yeah, too big a compressor is not a good idea. Another thing is, if you have a situation where any of the thermostats, esp if there in every room, can call for heating.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Ray Donovan


    Water John wrote: »
    Ray, good figures. the best use of the system is on the shoulders of the year, in terms of saving. But your winter bills should be low too. Keep in touch on that please.

    Yeah, too big a compressor is not a good idea. Another thing is, if you have a situation where any of the thermostats, esp if there in every room, can call for heating.

    I only have 6 stats. One in the sunroom, the sitting room and one in each bedroom. I like to keep things simple(ish)!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 212 ✭✭covey09


    368100 wrote: »
    Got a price for an A2W heat pump, danfoss with largest size cylinder and full underfloor heating system for a 2150sq ft bungalow. €12k Inc vat fully fitted ....any thoughts on whether it's a good price or not?

    Could you PM the Company that quoted you 12K?


  • Registered Users Posts: 212 ✭✭covey09


    I'd shop around if I was you.

    Got the same as yourself for €18,500. 2650 sq ft. IVT heat pump.

    Ray, could you Pm the details of the company, i like the IVT setup.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 479 ✭✭Mac0783


    I'm currently pricing for a heating system in a 290sqm house, the best price i've got is for a 13kw a2w system, has anyone this installed and what are your thoughts?


  • Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭Take2Sean


    Hey guys could you PM me who you went with currently speccing a house for similar. Would like to go with one co. for everything.


  • Registered Users Posts: 62 ✭✭prince20


    I have it installed since February and moved into the house in April.

    Happy with the system at the moment but the real test will be November, December and January. I'll probably have to really explore the workings of it then as the weather was very mild when we moved in.

    2 esb bills so far. The first for €200 and the second for €160.

    Hi, how's the bills been?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Ray Donovan


    prince20 wrote: »
    Hi, how's the bills been?

    https://touch.boards.ie/thread/2055433218/83

    Posted last night about this coincidentally enough.


  • Registered Users Posts: 360 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    I have Nibe F2040 + VVM 320 16kW and the cold snap of Dec-Jan me bimonthly ESB bill was €416 which was a bit steep I thought for a passive house 300m2 UFH.

    I also read the units and average daily units for this period was 33 units/day.
    In summertime it's 16 units/day

    so 33-16=17X.17(unit price)=2.89x7(week)= €20.23c a week to heat the house in the cold snap of Dec-Jan

    Is this good/bad or normal?

    House is a lovely even 22 degrees all the time.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,262 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Well in my bog standard house, my oil bill is triple that. So, insulation and sealing have a yield.


  • Registered Users Posts: 360 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    Fact Truth.

    I don't miss all those old bog standard those houses i used to live in Water John.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,262 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    What would the cost be of upgrading mine. Draught sealing, the biggest issue. If a A2W Hp would manage it, I would jump.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,111 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    I have Nibe F2040 + VVM 320 16kW and the cold snap of Dec-Jan me bimonthly ESB bill was €416 which was a bit steep I thought for a passive house 300m2 UFH.

    I also read the units and average daily units for this period was 33 units/day.
    In summertime it's 16 units/day

    so 33-16=17X.17(unit price)=2.89x7(week)= €20.23c a week to heat the house in the cold snap of Dec-Jan

    Is this good/bad or normal?

    House is a lovely even 22 degrees all the time.

    For a passive house that seems high to me.

    You should put a kWh meter on your heat pump and monitor it or is that where you got you unit figures from?

    Also, your calculation above you use 17c/kWh, do you have a night rate meter at all? You should have, if you have a HP.


  • Registered Users Posts: 360 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    That't what i was thinking too.

    When you break it down to €20-€26 a week it doesn't sound too bad.

    Figures are from meter readings at random times and subtracted from summertime readings when the heating is completely off. Hot water is the same all year and basic electricity usage is roughly the same.

    I don't have night rate but am now seriously thinking of getting it and limiting HP usage during the day and letting it rip at night..

    water john, send plans of your house to kore insulation and they will tell you cost of external wrap. Wrap installation and colour render can cost a bit but you will have the look of a brand new warm house.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,262 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    I think it's more a case of sealing, than insulation. All slabbed on the inside with 38mm insulated board. Cavity also partially insulated.
    It's the gap between the top of the wall and the roof is the main problem.

    Lowering your figure more by using night rate, makes me feel worse, Ha.


  • Registered Users Posts: 360 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    Gap between top of wall and roof I stuffed with rockwool.

    Had a lad do the spray insulation on top of that and in all hard to reach places and stuck me head in there every windy day until i was sure it was sealed.

    I used over 60 tubes of good polyurethane and 30 odd of cheaper stuff to seal around every opening. Took over 3 weeks but was worth it.

    If you seal too good you will need mechanical ventilation..


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,111 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Figures are from meter readings at random times and subtracted from summertime readings when the heating is completely off. Hot water is the same all year and basic electricity usage is roughly the same.

    You should get one of those clamp meters and attach it to the HP. They're not 100% accurate but accurate enough to monitor it.

    I don't have night rate but am now seriously thinking of getting it and limiting HP usage during the day and letting it rip at night..

    You will save money by putting in the night rate meter. You won't just turn it off by day and let it rip at night. Thats not how they work.

    You will be able to transfer some of the day use to night but not all.

    Definitely get the night rate meter though, you will save regardless.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Water John wrote: »
    What would the cost be of upgrading mine. Draught sealing, the biggest issue. If a A2W Hp would manage it, I would jump.

    This thread may be of interest to you....

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057784399


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,262 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Thanks for that. Familiar with TEA, in the past. Did both RE Cert and BER Course with them. They actually wrote the teaching module of the BER.


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