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Now Ye're Talking - to a Boardsie climbing to Everest Base Camp
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18-04-2017 10:51am#1This morning one of our fellow Boardsies arrived into Kathmandu in Nepal. He will be there for a few days getting some gear and permits sorted and after that he intends to make his way to Everest Base Camp in the Himalayas!
Since it's not the average place most of us will ever be, he has very kindly offered to share the experience here through a sort of 'live' AMA. He'll answer your questions about his journey as he travels or until the coverage for his phone runs out. Who knows, maybe they have full data coverage up at Everest Base Camp - we'll find out
Ask away!14
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G'day!!
Well to give some background on what is happening, I mentioned to Niamh a month or so back that I was thinking of heading up to Everest Base Camp, and that it might make an interesting AMA. So for something a little different, rather than do an after the fact how-was-it style AMA, I'm going to try and do this AMA en route, so that hopefully people get to see for themselves the highs and lows of the trip and I can answer questions along the way. I'm not sure how all that's going to work out, but we'll see what happens.
As for me, well I arrived in Kathmandu a few hours ago after a day of travelling, so I'm taking a rest day this evening. Tomorrow I need to borrow a motorbike and sort out permits, as Everest and its surroundings is considered a national park. More importantly though, it is used as a means to keep track of trekkers on the upper end of the route, should anything happen. Once permits are sorted, I'll be on a perilous bus ride to Jiri (will explain more on this later), to start a 370km round trip hike through the Himalayas.
In the interests of transparency, I have done this route a couple of times before, so I know the route pretty well. I'm still looking forward to being back in the mountains though.What level of climbing experience is needed for this venture? Is much experience needed to this or do people with money rock up and thing "I'll be grand" with all there new fancy equipment.
Hey GBX - good question! Technical climbing experience, as in with ropes and equipment, none. To get to Everest Base Camp, the most climbing you'll be doing is scrambling on the last day before you hit EBC. It's only once you start heading upwards of EBC, higher up on the Khumbu Glacier, would one need to start getting technical.
That being said, to say that it's a brisk Sunday walk where you can rock up with an "I'll be grand" attitude is a stretch to say the least. Jiri - EBC (rather than the usual Lukla - EBC route) is a vomit inducing slog that can be downright miserable at times, particularly in the rainy season. By the time you get to EBC, if you take in to account all of the climbs along the way, you'll have climbed the height of Everest one and a half times over. And there are serious considerations such as altitude - EBC sits at 5,545 metres (18,192 ft) ASL, or even higher of you head up to Kala Patthar at 5,644.5 m (18,519 ft). These are serious altitudes, and people have died from acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE).saggycaggy wrote: »I always remember in 3rd class in primary school listening in to Dawson Stelfox phoning in to the Pat Kenny Show during his climb of Everest, amazing stuff!
Anyway just wondering how much it costs to embark in such an adventure? insurance etc?
Best of Luck with it!
Don't confuse me wit the likes of Dawson Stelfox - he managed to summit Everest in 1993. I'll be sitting squarely in his shadow down at EBC. It's been a dream of mine to summit, but at almost $100,000 per person by the time permits, guides and equipment are sorted, it's out of my budget somewhat.
Some photos of the last time I was there, to give you some ideas of the terrain.
Everest
Pumori, taken from the summit of Kala Patthar.
The Khumbu Glacier, with Everest in the background.0 -
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I assume you will be joining a group for your ascent.
Do you know who they will be or is that decided upon arrival and seeing whose there?
Mind yourself. We dont want you getting buried by an avalanche or falling down a ravine
Edit..though they would make fora good AMA as you answer questions plummeting to the bottom 0 -
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How long do you reckon the hike will take?
Is it expensive to go as far as base camp, or does the serious expense only start racking up if you're heading for the summit?
Best of luck with the trip!!
I'm going from Jiri and returning to Jiri, and am considering going over Gokyo pass, so probably the guts of three weeks. The reason I mention Jiri is that most people fly into Lukla, a village in the Himalayas, and head up from there, which is pretty straightforward, but somewhat foolish for the unfit as it doesn't allow for any form of acclimatisation. Going from Jiri however, follows the trail of Hillary, and involves traversing the Himalayas, some days climbing close to 2000 metres, and on at least two occasions, finishing your day at a lower altitude than which you started, which can be a tad depressing. It's a slog at times, and there's no other way to describe it. But it's also incredibly beautiful, and quite isolated. You can push yourself though - when I was about ten years younger and a lot fitter, I ran from EBC to Jiri in six days, and weighed 64kg by the end of it. Not much hope of that happening now
As for the cost, it can depend on a number of factors. IF you are taking a guide, and porters, costs can add up quite quickly. Any time I've done it, I go it alone, and eat dal bhat in the evenings and not much else. Ive made it to EBC and back for less than $100 in the past.Jefferson Whispering Voucher wrote: »I assume you will be joining a group for your ascent.
Do you know who they will be or is that decided upon arrival and seeing whose there?
Nope, I'm going it alone. If it's any solace though, I've spent many years hiking, and have done this route a few times before, so it's not a particularly big issue. For me, and I know how this might come across, having someone guide me would take away from the experience, as much of the experience for me is about being alone while being in nature. On a previous hike here, I've been bitten by a snake while alone, which was a painful experience to say the least.Jefferson Whispering Voucher wrote: »Mind yourself. We dont want you getting buried by an avalanche or falling down a ravine
Edit..though they would make fora good AMA as you answer questions plummeting to the bottom The thought had occurred to me of the possibility of posting from the bottom of a crevasse - "stuck in hole send halp plz" 0 -
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artanevilla wrote: »Do you think there needs to be a stricter limit on the amount of people allowed to climb Everest and to go to base camp every year?
Absolutely yes - both for those trekking up to EBC, and those going for the summit.
In the case of trekking to base camp, I've met quite a few people, to be quite honest, shouldn't be anywhere near a mountain, and it's only due to a combination of luck and the fact that they pay a barrage of guides and porters to go with them and carry their belongings, that they manage to get to EBC and back in one piece. To give an example, on my first time there, I met a guy from Uruguay who had flown into Lukla with his guide and porter, to make his way to EBC. From chatting to him, this was a man who was quite obviously going through a midlife crisis - quite overweight, have never gone for so much as a Sunday stroll before this, but decided he wanted to do something noteworthy before he turned 50. I accompanied him for the last three days, out of genuine concern for his health - he looked on the cusp of a heart attack at every given moment.
To his credit, he did get to Base Camp - and immediately collapsed. His blood oxygen level had dropped to about 88% if I recall, his pulse was off the charts, and we treated him onsite until the helicopter could get in. He was choppered off - leaving his guide behind on the mountain with instructions to carry all his stuff back down...
There are dozens of examples that come to mind along these lines - another was a group of scouts from England who had raised money to trek to EBC (EBC seems to be quite the cash cow for organisations these days if you want a free holiday). All young people, who I expect were reasonably fit. With an entourage of 25-30 porters, carrying everything from saucepans to firewood up the mountain for them. Each break, the porters would set up a fire, and prepare lunch. Then break down camp and move forward for another hour or two. At night, after carrying kilos of unnecessary gear, they'd then set up cam for the scouts. When I asked one of the scouts what was in their 60 litre rucksacks, he said 'a jacket and a camera'. The rucksacks were for show for the photos they'd be taking along the way.
I apologise if what I've said offends anybody or if it sounds elitist, but if you aren't able to carry what you need on your own back, then there's a good chance you are not prepared, or probably shouldn't be there.
Summit assents are quite obviously a different story, because you do require an obvious level of fitness or preparation. There is however, another factor that changes the playing field to a huge degree. You also need an inordinate amount of cash to summit Everest, and this now trumps experience in any way, shape or form. To a large degree, people no summiting Everest are doing so because they can afford to do so, not because they've gained the necessary experience over the years to do so. It also creates a very unhealthy climbing ecosystem on the mountain, because there is a new driving force for expedition organisers to get to the summit. Last time I took a cursory look at the figures, it costs upwards of $45,000 to get to the summit (depends on the size of the climbing party, etc), and expedition leaders now have to take into account the fact that each person behind them has paid the price of a luxury car to be there, and as such, aren't going to be too eager to turn around if told to do so. Additionally, no expedition organiser wants to be the one to turn around if other teams manage to make it to the summit - it would effectively kill their business for next year.
I once read that climbing Everest has become an outward manifestation of mental illness, and to a large degree, it's true. In short, yes, I believe that climbing should be experience based rather than based on the size of your wallet. I can't see that changing any time soon though.Is climbing to the Base Camp and no further towards the summit a common thing? I had assumed anyone going to Base Camp would then be continuing on, it seems this isn't the case?
Good luck with everything, and thanks for taking the time to do this AMA!
Thank you!
Yes, as I mentioned above, EBC is the highest one can climb without paying an inordinate amount of money to the Nepalese government for a permit, so many people hike to EBC and turn around. I have been lucky enough to climb quite a bit higher - a friend of mine was based at a meteorological station a half days hike below base camp. They were placing measuring equipment on the mountain when I happened to be there, and I ended up going with them.Climbing to base camp is a fairly bog standard adventure package holiday really, very common.
I think that's probably too simple an explanation. As I mentioned above, it certainly can be, with people flying into Lukla (bypassing all the ****ty hiking) with guides and porters in tow, in order to make a straight shot up to EBC to get a selfie. And I obviously have my own feelings about that. But equally it can be a slog, to say the least, going from the bottom on your own.Best of luck to you! I find it all very fascinating.
Are there many people going it alone up there? Do you meet people along the way or is it total isolation?
Also, do you mind me being cheeky and asking what age bracket you fall into. Just curious from a fitness perspective.
I'd say that the majority fly into Lukla and go from there. The majority will also have at least a guide, if not a porter to carry their bags. Going from Jiri is a much quieter experience, and you do get a handful of people going from there on their own or with a guide. I've always hiked during the rainy season in the past, and I've made it from Jiri to Lukla without meeting another foreigner. It's hiking season right now, so I expect I'll meet a few people along the way.
As to my age, I'm 37, so hopefully I'm not going to keel over just yet.On my bucket list for sure, looking forward to all your posts.
Thank you!Purple Mountain wrote: »Are there any risks of fatality from falling before base camp?
How many overnight stops will you have en route and are these in buildings that people inhabit all year round?
There are always risks. But to be fair, the risks are pretty low. Lower down, you're hiking through overgrown areas, and during rainy season, there are serious risks of mudslides along the way - I've seen entire chunks of path taken out before my eyes, and disappear down into the valley below. From Namche Bazaar up to EBC, you're hiking along the Khumbu Glacier, However, the first time I went up, the bridge was washed out by floodwater (rainy season rains swell the rivers to unbelievable proportions), and I had to hike up the wrong side of the glacier and cross it further up. That was quite dodgy - I wasn't in any way equipped for ice, and the crevasses are quite deep. I'm not particularly keen on getting spat out of a glacier at the bottom of the valley in 50 years or so.
Altitude is probably the biggest risk though, and it's something that gets completely ignored because if you can get a guide to bring you up, then hey, it's okay, right? People do quite frequently suffer from altitude sickness and its physiological effects, but again, guides feel obligated to get you there because you have paid them to do so.Is this your second AMA here?
It might be. Is this your second account here?
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Registration and permits sorted (with obligatory bottle of Everest beer in the background).
The paper on the left is for entry into the national park - much of the area surrounding Everest is classified as a national park, which is a good thing as far as I'm concerned. If it wasn't, I can only imagine how the environment would be exploited (luxury hotel with helipad on the roof anyone?)
The card on the right is a trekking registration card - basically a way of keeping track of who is heading up to base camp at any given time. Being honest, I've never had either checked in the past, but it may be different at this time of year.
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One of the best AMAs. Thanks for taking the time.
So this dal bhat (had to google it
) you basically take all you'll eat with you? Or can you buy it along the way?
Stuff like water - no problem. I guess (famous last words) you cook with Meths, do you take all this too?
What about power for your tablet/phone?
Presumably coverage is good?0 -
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One of the best AMAs. Thanks for taking the time.
So this dal bhat (had to google it) you basically take all you'll eat with you? Or can you buy it along the way?
Stuff like water - no problem. I guess (famous last words) you cook with Meths, do you take all this too?
What about power for your tablet/phone?
Presumably coverage is good?
The nice thing about trekking in the Himalayas is that it is inhabited to a degree - it's dotted with small Sherpa hamlets and outcrops along the way. Many Sherpa families make a living by providing food and basic accommodation along the way - its particularly basic from Jiri - Lukla, improves a lot from there to Namche Bazaar, presumably to cater to the higher numbers of trekkers in that area (and higher expectations). I tend to hike at my own place, so I do a mixture of camping out and staying at a local teahouse. Foodwise, the same. I carry cold food with me to save on cooking gear, and eat one hot meal a day (Dal Bhat usually) somewhere along the way.
Dal Bhat is a staple meal in Nepal, particularly in the mountains, because of its high energy content - you'll see mountain porters eat it fro pretty much every meal. It consists of steamed rice with lentil soup, sometimes with a little potato. The good thing about eating Dal Bhat from a local place is that it follows the free refill policy - they keep serving it until you're full. Considering the amount of energy your body expends at altitude (you can burn 10,000 calories a day just standing still and staying alive), you can see why that can be a good thing.
Water isn't an issue - there are springs and runoff from the glaciers everywhere - it literally pours out of the hillside.Enjoy the beer and the trek! Sounds like a great adventure - even if you're not a virgin!
Much appreciated, thank you! The beer went down quite nicely.My inner geek is wondering what gadgets you have packed, phones/cameras/gps/power etc?
I usually don't for weight reasons - many years of hiking has taught me how to pare down my gear to the bare minimum, but agreeing to this AMA means that I obviously have to carry some tech with me. I have a phone and solar charger, and a netbook when I get the chance to recharge properly. There's power in Lukla and Namche Bazaar, however most homesteads have a simple solar panel and car battery - that is, if they have anything at all. One or two small villages also harness power from tiny hydro plants that utilise the energy from the mountain streams. I also carry a DSLR for photographs - my own personal hobby. My pack is quite a bit heavier as a result than it would usually be.Purple Mountain wrote: »Really really interesting posts so far. Thank you!!
You write really well, I foretell a career in travel blogging!
Thank you for the praise - much appreciated 0 -
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A very interesting AMA - thanks for putting it up!
I suppose my question is why another trek to basecamp? I can understand people doing a trek there once, more to tick it off than anything, but I wouldn't have thought it would be the most satisfying other than that? I assumed the crowds and the box tickers would be fairly annoying to deal with on the hike. There must be an infinite number of hikes in the Himalaya's alone, so why this one?
I just do a tiny bit of hiking in Ireland and would like to do more, but never really thought about base camp. I like the idea of getting to the top of something or if I'm not doing that doing a less busy hike. I always imagine base camp to be a really crowded one.
I understand what you mean about box tickers, and yes, there's a fair amount of that during busy season. In the past I've gone during rainy season which makes a huge difference in terms of meeting people along the way - I've gone days without meeting another hiker. As to why EBC again? You're right, there are many other beautiful hikes, and I've done some of them in the past. I do like the hike up to Everest Base Camp though - not so much the busier section after Lukla, but definitely the lower section. If I have time coming down, I might take a detour off onto one of these routes for a bit of peace and quiet There's also the matter of logistics - some of the hikes are quite remote, take a certain amount of prep time or require equipment. I currently live in St Asia, and muck of my decent gear is at home, which limits me somewhat in that regard. 0 -
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Very interesting post. My friends and I were considering this a few months ago and I definitely would like to do it sometime in the future.
Have you ever flown into Lukla? I read that the plane journey is quite dangerous?
Nope, I haven't flown into Lukla, the purist in me sees it a bit like telling people you ran a marathon, when someone drove you to mile 18, and while I'm still above ground and fit enough to do so, I'll continue to hike in. That opinion might change drastically about 20 minutes in tomorrow though
But you are correct about Lukla - the airport there (I use the term loosely, it's a single tarmac strip) is listed as the most dangerous in the world due to its location, topography and weather. The runway literally runs off the edge of the plateau, dropping straight into the valley below. I was actually there in 2008 (first time hiking to EBC) when a plane crashed there. Fog came in and the pilot couldn't see, came in too low and ploughed into the hillside below the runway. It was pretty horrific to say the least, everybody on board was killed except the pilot.
That being said, you have to applaud the nerve and skill of the pilots who fly in that terrain to begin with.What is your favourite hike you've ever done, both Everest and elsewhere?
There are many, but I don't think I'm giving too much away by saying that I did another AMA here a while back, where I traveled overland for seven years. You can find it here. As for a specific hike, probably getting to the summit of Mt. Kazbek (5047m) in the Caucasus, or climbing in Romania when I was younger, to Vladeasa.Also if you don't mind me asking, how much is the permit to climb to EBC?
The permit consists of a couple of permits, and a trekking registration card. All in, 7400 Nepalese Rupees, or about 70 euro, so not too bad.Do include some photos you may take on your way to EBC whenever you get a chance.
Keep the posts coming. Very interesting thread.
Good luck!
Will do! I'll be taking camera phone pics en route for immediate upload, but I'll also upload pics from my dslr when I get back to civilization.0 -
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Probably a silly question but is it cold?
Another silly one - what is the terrain like on the way up to base camp? Dirt roads? Fields? Rocky ground?
Thanks for a great AMA!!
Not a silly question at all. What many people aren't aware of is that many of the tracks here are the only route of commerce between villages - there are no roads, so every item is walked into the villages on the backs of Sherpas. Which is a fair undertaking when I you consider that every nail, board, sheet of galvanize, pot, pan might have been carried for 100km on someone's back. I've often met Sherpas Laden down with 40kg of diesel for generators, with a few sheets of plywood and tin for good measure. To say they are hardy people is an understatement of epic proportions.
So the trail itself is easily followed, particularly low down. And over generations, villagers have made stone steps leading up to the villages in particularly sloppy sections. Attached are a couple of pics from yesterday - mods will probably need to resize them, as I can't from here.
[img][/img]http://i.imgur.com/sveQLzt.jpg
[img][/img]http://i.imgur.com/smcTChG.jpg0 -
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