A BER assement in 15 minutes?

sydthebeat

cormie wrote: »

Thanks again, I'll be interested in seeing the report as I have my own ideas on what needs to be done in the house, but if they didn't even go to the attic, who knows what they'll be suggesting. Also, there was insulation board put on a bathroom wall to hide pipework when my friend bought it as a bathroom renovation was priority, but none of the other walls in the house were insulated, so I'm wondering if they'd even know any of this.

if it was done for €125 i can pretty much guarantee that the only "report" you will get is the very generic report automatically generated by the software.. which is pretty much useless. The assessor has no input into whats in this report.

and on the insulated plasterboard, if there is no way of visually verifying this, then it wont be included. Assessors cannot include stuff just because the client says its there. If it is to be included, it has to be proven to exist and be measurable.

cormie

Thanks again. Will see what it's like when it comes, it's not looking too positive though!

Water John

As Syd said, the core of the assessment is visual. That is why he/she should poke their head into the attic. They are not asked to climb in there, but should have a ladder with them for this purpose.
There isn't a hope of doing a visual assessment of a house in 15 mins. I don't practice but was trained by TI, who were involved in the course design.
The way they did the course was thorough and in depth. The whole thing became a joke afterwards.

rodzer

Whether it became a joke or not, it's certainly not a joke anymore. The assessments are very thorough as they should have been years ago of course. It's the law and not going away anytime soon so the public might as well get used to it.

Water John

The question is. are they all thorough now?

rodzer

Yes I believe they are.

cormie

Well the report came back:

About this Advisory Report Energy use in our homes is responsible for almost a quarter of Ireland's total CO 2 emissions. Reducing energy use will save you money and is good for the environment. This report provides advice on improving your BER, reducing your energy usage and costs, while improving the comfort of your home. The improvement measures recommended in this report are not mandatory and can be completed at your own discretion. Some improvements may require the use of suitably qualified installers or professional advice. All works should be completed to the relevant health and safety standards. Where applicable, works should be completed to the relevant Building Regulations. In this report an associated cost and impact are provided for the recommendations specific to your home. Costs and impacts are divided into categories and these are defined as follows: Low Cost are improvements that are expected to cost less than 100 euro to complete. Medium Cost are improvements that are expected to cost 100 euro to 1,000 euro to complete. High Cost are improvements that are expected to cost more than 1,000 euro to complete. The above costs are guidelines only and actual costs will vary depending on house size, work specification and market conditions. Low Impact are measures that will make a small improvement in energy efficiency. Medium Impact are measures that will make a medium improvement in energy efficiency. High Impact are measures that will make a large improvement in energy efficiency. Implementing any improvement measure will reduce your energy consumption. When implementing improvements it is sensible to prioritise those with a low cost and a high impact first. The money saved by reducing energy usage can help to pay for the improvement measures. Moreover apart from increasing the comfort and costs the
measures could increase the value of your home and reduce its environmental impact.


Ventilation General Operational Advice on Ventilation Care should always be taken to ensure a sufficient level of ventilation to maintain fresh air levels in each room and to remove moisture, water vapour and pollutants. For health and safety reasons it is important to ensure an adequate air supply to combustion appliances e.g. gas, oil or solid fuel. Signs of inadequate ventilation are persistent condensation and mould growth. If such problems exist, they should be addressed first, since reducing ventilation may make the problem worse. In a typical home 20% of all heat loss is through ventilation and draughts. Energy consumption can be improved while maintaining adequate ventilation. If draught sealing is damaged at any time make sure to replace it. When draughtproofing or making houses more airtight, it is important to maintain recommended ventilation standards. Radon concentrations can increase in existing houses as a result of greater airtightness. Further information on Radon is available from the Radiological Protection Institute of Ireland in their publication "Radon in Homes". This guide can be downloaded from www.rpii.ie.

Chimneys This dwelling has one or more chimneys. The chimney(s) in this dwelling increase heat loss by allowing heated air to escape. When making improvements it is important for safety reasons to ensure that proper ventilation is provided in rooms with combustion appliances. There are 3 upgrade options available to you to reduce the heat loss through the chimney(s): (a) Installing a closed-in stove will reduce heat losses, and will also be approximately twice as efficient as an open fire, giving the same heat for half as much fuel. Cost: High Impact: Medium

(b) Supplying outside air directly to the heating appliance instead of drawing heated air from the room will reduce heat loss in the room. If possible, the appliance should be room sealed i.e. takes its air supply directly from outside. This will eliminate all air exchange with the room in which it is situated. Cost: High Impact: Low

(c) Installing a chimney damper will reduce heat losses when the fireplace is not in use. If the chimney is never used it can be permanently sealed which involves installing a permanent insulated panel. An adjustable vent should be incorporated into the panel to avoid the chimney space becoming damp. Cost: Medium Impact: Low

Fan & Vents This dwelling has one or more fans/vents. The fans and vents in this dwelling increase heat loss by allowing heated air to escape but can be important in ensuring adequate ventilation. If there is no cover on the inside of the vents, installing controllable vent covers will allow you to control the air flow through the vents, and so can help reduce heat loss. It
is important not to permanently close or cover over air vents as they are required to provide ventilation for the removal of moisture, pollutants and operation of combustion appliances. It is important for safety reasons to have proper ventilation in any room which contains combustion appliances. For further details please refer to publication 'A Detailed Guide to Insulating Your Home' available on www.seai.ie. Cost: Low Impact: Low

Draught Lobby This dwelling has no draught lobby. Open doors and air gaps around doorways are a source of heat loss in a dwelling. The construction of a draught lobby/porch on the frequently used external doorways in this dwelling would reduce these heat losses. Lobbies should be constructed to the relevant Building Regulations. Care should be taken not to block any existing ventilation openings inadvertently. Cost: High Impact: Low

Suspended Wooden Floor This dwelling has a solid floor. No specific action is advised.

Draught Stripping This dwelling has 100% draught stripping. No specific action is advised.

Ventilation System This dwelling has natural ventilation. No specific action is advised.

Building Elements

Floors General Operational Advice on Floors Floors can be a source of significant heat loss and dampness in a dwelling. For example heat loss through the ground floor of a two storey house typically accounts for about 10% of total heat loss. For a single storey house this figure is about 15%. However, if a house is well insulated everywhere except for the ground floor, this percentage will be higher. A U-Value is a measure of the heat loss through the fabric of the building. The lower the U-Value the better and the higher the U-Value the greater the heat loss. Floors with a U-Value greater than 0.25 could be improved in a number of ways. A relatively simple way to reduce heat loss through a ground floor is to lay a carpet with foam backing or a foam underlay ensuring that both carpet and underlay are laid wall to wall. Sealing of gaps in the ground floor will help to reduce draughts. Modern insulation methods for new houses may also be implemented in existing houses. In some cases this would be disruptive and costly, but if work needs to be done on the floor anyway, this is a good time to consider an insulation upgrade. For further details please refer to publication 'A Detailed Guide to Insulating Your Home' available on www.seai.ie

Part of the floor area in this dwelling has a U-Value of less than 1 and greater than or equal to 0.6. The insulation in this floor can be significantly improved. Cost: High Impact: Medium

Roofs General Operational Advice on Roofs Proper insulation will help retain valuable heat and improve overall comfort levels. If insulation is disturbed or damaged at any time, e.g. in attic space, make sure to restore or replace it.

Heat loss through an un-insulated roof of a typical house can account for up to 30% of the total heat loss. Installing insulation will reduce this heat loss, and hence reduce the energy demand of the dwelling. A U-Value is the measure of the heat loss through the fabric of the building. The lower the U-Value the better and the higher the U-Value the greater the heat loss. Modern pitched roofs or habitable roof spaces that are insulated between the rafters, have a U-Value less than or equal to 0.2. Modern flat and pitched roofs that are insulated at ceiling level, have a U-Value less than or equal to 0.16. Blanket insulation, rigid board insulation or expanding foam may be used to achieve the required insulation level. Loose beads may also be used for roofs insulated on the ceiling. Installing roof insulation generally involves a considerable amount of work. The attic/roof space must have adequate ventilation to prevent dampness. This is achieved by leaving a continuous air gap along the eaves at each side. Electric cables should not be buried under insulation. Leave clearance for recessed lights to avoid them overheating. For further details please refer to publication ' A Detailed Guide to Insulating Your Home' available on www.seai.ie

Part of the pitched roof insulated on the ceiling in this dwelling has a U-Value of less than 1.5 and greater than or equal to 0.4. The insulation in this roof can be significantly improved. Cost: Medium Impact: Medium

Walls Heat loss through the walls can account for up to 30% of the total heat loss. This can typically be reduced by two-thirds by insulating the walls and so reduce the energy demand of the dwelling. A U-Value is a measure of the heat loss through the building fabric. The lower the U-Value the better and the higher the U-Value the greater the heat loss. Walls with a U-Value greater than 0.27 could be improved. Insulation may be installed as cavity fill. This is where the gap between the inner and outer layers of external walls is filled with an insulating material. If cavity insulation is not applicable or is not technically possible, insulation may be installed internally or externally. Internal insulation involves a layer of insulation being fixed to the inside surface of external walls, and a suitable fire resistant finish being incorporated or applied. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. For further details please refer to publication 'A Detailed Guide to Insulating Your Home' available on www.seai.ie

Part of the wall area in this dwelling has a U-Value of greater than or equal to 1.1. The insulation in this wall can be greatly improved. Cost: High Impact: High

Windows Glass allows heat to escape more readily than most other building materials. For this reason, it is important that the windows are as energy efficient as possible. Windows can account for around 15% of the heat loss in your home. Installing energy efficient windows such as low-E double glazing helps to retain heat and improves comfort through elimination of cold window surfaces and associated downdraughts and condensation. The use of shutters, lined curtains and blinds can improve heat retention at night and further reduce downdraughts. A U-Value is a measure of the heat loss through the building fabric. The lower the UValue the better and the higher the U-Value the greater the heat loss. Windows with a heat loss greater than the current building standards (i.e. have a U-Value greater than 2) could be improved. The best benefits are achieved through replacing single glazed windows with low-E double glazing or triple glazing. Note that single glazing can also be improved by adding secondary glazing (installing a secondary window and frame on the room side of the existing window).

Some of the windows in this dwelling with a U-Value of less than 4 and greater than or equal to 2.7. The heat loss through these windows can be significantly reduced. Cost: High Impact: Medium

Doors Heat is lost from dwellings through doors which often have relatively poor thermal insulation compared to other elements of the building. Installing insulated doors will reduce this heat loss, and also generally reduce draughts through air gaps at the frames. Replacement doors, whether glazed or half glazed, should have insulated cores. A U-Value is a measure of the heat loss through the fabric of the building. The lower the U-Value the better and the higher the U-Value the greater the heat loss. Doors with a U-Value greater than 2.0 could be improved. For further details please refer to publication 'A Detailed Guide to Insulating Your Home' available on www.seai.ie

Part of the door area in this dwelling has a U-Value of less than 4 and greater than or equal to 2.7. The heat loss through this door area can be significantly reduced. Cost: Medium Impact: Low

Hot Water General Operational Advice on Hot Water. Ensure that the hot water cylinder insulation is not disturbed or damaged. Incomplete insulation increases heat loss and costs money.

A cylinder thermostat is not required for the hot water system in this dwelling. No specific action is advised.

Lighting General Operational Advice on Lighting Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) use 20% of the energy used by typical incandescent bulbs to give the same amount of light. A 22 Watt CFL has the same light output as a 100 Watt incandescent. LED (Light-emitting diode) lights use less than 10% of the energy required for corresponding tungsten lights. Low energy lighting will give highest savings in rooms that are most often used.

Lighting - Low Energy Bulbs There is 100% low energy lighting in this dwelling. No specific action is advised.

Space Heating General Operational Advice on Space Heating A reduction of 1 o C on your thermostat can reduce annual space heating costs by 10% or more. An automatic timer switch or programmer allows you to schedule the heating duty on the hot water and heating system and to turn the system on and off as required. Use this facility to limit the running time for the heating system to fit your specific needs and you will save money. Room thermostats nomally turn the boiler and heating circulation pump off when the room temperature has reached the desired level. A room thermostat is normally located in a living area or circulations area (hall or landing). Guide temperature settings are 20 o C for a living room and 16 - 18 o C for circulation areas. However, the most appropriate setting depends on location of the thermostat and the heating system design. Choose the lowest setting that gives acceptable comfort conditions. Finding the setting to suit you may take some experimentation. Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs) can be set to suit the heating requirements of the room(s) in question. For further details please refer to "A Detailed Guide to Home Heating Systems" available on www.seai.ie

Dist. System losses and gains (control category) There are good heating system controls in this dwelling. No specific action advised.

Main Heating System General Operational Advice on Main Heating System You should have your boiler professionally serviced at least once per year. A clean and serviced appliance will operate more economically and will have a longer service life.

Efficiency of Main Heating System (Gas or Oil) This dwelling has an oil/gas main heating system. The efficiency of the boiler in this dwelling is greater than or equal to 86%. No specific action is advised.

Thermal Solar Panels
This dwelling has no solar water heating. Solar Panels, also known as "collectors", can be fitted to a building's roof. They use the sun's heat to warm water, or another fluid, which passes through the panel. The fluid is then fed to a heat store (e.g. a hot water tank) and helps provide hot water directly or can provide a source of hot water for the central heating system in the dwelling. Solar panels work throughout daylight hours, even if the sky is overcast and there is no direct sunshine. Solar panels can also be used to meet some space heating demand. Ideally the panels should be located on an unshaded, south facing roof at a tilt angle of 30°- 45° to the horizontal. Space will be need to accommodate an appropriately sized cylinder for the system and a thermal mixing (anti-scald) valve should also be installed. Cost: High Impact: Medium

PV Solar System or Microturbine This dwelling has no Photo Voltaics (PV) or Microturbine installed. A solar photovoltaic (PV) system is one which converts light directly into electricity via panels placed on the roof with no waste and no emissions. This electricity is used throughout the home to supplement the electricity purchased from an energy supplier. Ideally the panels should be located on an unshaded, south facing roof at a tilt angle of 30°- 45° to the horizontal. Batteries can be used to store electricity from the PV array or wind turbine. However, this increases the installation and equipment cost as well as maintenance cost. A Micro-windturbine is a small turbine placed on the property which uses wind to generate electricity. The electricity is used throughout the home to supplement the electricity from an energy supplier. The turbine should not be subject to wind shelter. To be effective, the turbine should be at a height well clear of nearby roofs and other obstructions. Cost: High Impact: High

General Advice on Energy Use in Your Home

The way we use energy in our homes can reduce energy consumption. Some simple everyday measures will save money, improve comfort and reduce your impact on the environment. Some of these are outlined below. Appliances: New kitchen appliances carry an energy rating label which rates energy efficiency on a scale of A to G. When buying new appliances look for A rated products which are more energy efficient and cost less to run. Do not under or overload appliances, such as dishwashers and washing machines. For washing machines, a 40ºC rather than a 60ºC wash cycle cuts electricity use by approximately a third. (Modern washing powders and detergents can work equally effectively at lower temperatures.) Defrost your freezer regularly to save energy and extend the operating life. Equipment on standby uses up to 20% of the energy it would use when fully on. When an appliance is not in use, turn it off fully. Lighting: Avail of natural daylight whenever possible and avoid leaving electric lights switched on in unoccupied rooms. All lighting lamps carry an energy label similar to that on appliances (i.e. an A to G label) so always choose the most efficient to suit your particular needs.

It was given a rating of D1.

joebre

Lighting - Low Energy Bulbs There is 100% low energy lighting in this dwelling. No specific action is advised.

One of the simplest checks that your friend can do is calculate the percentage of low energy lighting. This guy has returned it as 100%. He is meant to record the number of lights in each room, i.e low energy or tungsten and he should photograph them for his records. Ask you friend to check if 100% is right.

cormie

Actually, the kitchen has theses lights, so I'm guessing he's not correct?

sydthebeat

cormie wrote: »

Actually, the kitchen has theses lights, so I'm guessing he's not correct?

We know he didn't go into the attic, so the rating cannot be correct.
The attic insulation will have a much bigger impact than the lels

Pkiernan

OP you seem to have a lot of access to your friends BER report and house!
The cowboy that did this report needs to be reported either by you or by your friend.
If you don't report it you are condoning this behaviour.

joebre

Actually, the kitchen has theses lights, so I'm guessing he's not correct?

The bulbs in those fittings could be low energy. Have a close look at the bulb and also look at the bulbs throughout the rest of the house.
Apart from new builds, very few older houses would have 100% low energy lighting.
It was just too easy for the cowboy to assume "100%"

Water John

It's the job of Govrn't to audit the business. Good auditing and there wouldn't be any cowboys.
Members of the public wouldn't generally know what is good practice in any profession.