SonOff Low Cost Wifi Switches for Home Automation

JHet

Yes, I got sorted in the end anyway, working perfectly.

There are a couple of different ways you can go about it natively in the app and externally via integrations.

1. Temp Sensor to control when the boiler comes on and off. You can't manually control the boiler when you enable this, its considered to be in auto mode. I will experiment with this and see how I get on. Unfortunately its not possible, in the ewelink app anyway, to have the boiler come on or off when the temperature reaches a certain level, at a certain time, for example if you wanted the heating to come on in the morning when you get up, but only if the temperate is < 18 C. It's one or the other at the moment but that could be fixed in a future app update.
2. Timer Schedules for on and off - this is standard I guess.
3. Countdown timer if you want to turn it off after x number of minutes.
4. Loop timer if you wanted it switch on or off every hour say. Can't see myself needing this.
5. Alexa Integration. Actually I don't have an Alexa but I do have a Fire TV with alexa integration. I was able to add an Ewelink Smart Home skill in the alexa app. This allowed me to hold down the microphone button on the Fire TV and say "Alexa Turn Boiler ON/OFF" etc which is quite handy. Remember when I said when you can't control the switch manually when temp sensor is enabled, its considered in auto mode, I lied, you can actually circumnavigate that with this method, probably unintended, but ewelink app doesn't let you have manual interaction, but this does.
6. I've also integrated it with IFTTT. I may use this for geofencing, i.e turn on the heating when I near home. There are actually a huge amount of things you can do with IFTTT, too long to describe here. One thing you can't do with IFTTT is use the temperature and humidity which is a pity.
7. Flash with Tasmota which invalidates/modifies all of the above. Probably security wise best way to go, I may look at it in the future if I do more home automation stuff. There are a lot more possibilities with the likes of openHab and Home Assistant, but that's a lot of work and at the moment not too bothered getting into all of that, although it would enable the use case I described in the first point. Eventually I would like to explore a more complex system, where I have temperature sensors in each of the rooms which act as thermostats, and can independently make a call for heat to the boiler. I would need some sort of thermal actuators for the rads and probably additional sonoff devices for each room, to zone each of the rooms and control the temperature. Anyway that's a dream for another day.

Overall its a great little device.

I'm wondering would it be safe to replace the Immersion switch with. I'm not sure I'd trust it entirely, would be pushing to limits of its rated load. I've heard others exercise similar caution, although JW on youtube did load test it and seemed to hold up well. Be interested to hear about anyway else who is using for this purpose and how they are finding it.

tweek84

@JHet Good you had a busy weekend playing with it so ;-) I am using stringify and IFTT to control the Sonoff as there wasn't enough time schedules on the app (8 i think) to do what i wanted to do.

Is there a pipe stat controlling the temperature for the boiler or what was controlling it? You could possibly switch the live feed out from the Sonoff through the stat (depending on the stat you have).

If i was to use it to switch the immersion i would use the Sonoff to control a contactor or relay. Check your fuseboard to see if the breaker for the immersion is only feeding the immersion, if it is only feeding the immersion put in a contactor at the board with a sonoff switching it. I'd put in a 4ch one as they can be din rail mounted and you can use the other output in future.

JHet

tweek84 wrote: »

Is there a pipe stat controlling the temperature for the boiler or what was controlling it? You could possibly switch the live feed out from the Sonoff through the stat (depending on the stat you have).

No, I'm just using the temp sensor that fits the device. Link below to the one I purchased:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075LN2SQ2

tweek84 wrote: »

If i was to use it to switch the immersion i would use the Sonoff to control a contactor or relay. Check your fuseboard to see if the breaker for the immersion is only feeding the immersion, if it is only feeding the immersion put in a contactor at the board with a sonoff switching it. I'd put in a 4ch one as they can be din rail mounted and you can use the other output in future.

That's actually a great idea . From recollection I believe its separate, but I'm going to check that when I get home.

Haven't gotten into stringify yet. So I understand the "what" but would be interested to hear more about the "how" in terms of actual flow setup for your particular use case?

ED E

JHet wrote: »

I'm wondering would it be safe to replace the Immersion switch with. I'm not sure I'd trust it entirely, would be pushing to limits of its rated load. I've heard others exercise similar caution, although JW on youtube did load test it and seemed to hold up well. Be interested to hear about anyway else who is using for this purpose and how they are finding it.

Several have melted/burned online. The user was usually over the rating but I think some were within bounds.

I wouldnt put more than 8A sustained load across them. Any more, use a relay.

shooter69

Lads looking for advice . Have two Farho small electric heaters in an office above the garage ( has its own consumer unit separate to main house ) both are on switched /fused spur which at present is what we use to switch them on manually , if I want to add 2 x sonoff switches do I remove the spur and just add the sonoff simple switch (also continuing the earth outside the sonoff) or leave the fused spur and add the switch between the fused spur and the heater ?
Cheers for the help

kenmc

I'd leave the spur and put the sonoff between spur and heater. Alternatively check out shelly1, it might fit inside your spur

shooter69

kenmc wrote: »

I'd leave the spur and put the sonoff between spur and heater. Alternatively check out shelly1, it might fit inside your spur

Cheers will check that out ðŸ‘

chrismon

Hi all.
Anyone have issues with pairing?
I found a YouTube video I watched showed the same issue I had, the connection to the antenna looks broken.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17ggV6JcF_md0kspq-jTjGV9srYyYWCU7/view?usp=drivesdk

Any ideas? Not really worth sending back.

JHet

You need to provide more information with regard to, what you are doing to pair, the specific issue you're encountering, and the stage in the process you are encountering it at.

chrismon

Button pressed to pair, light flashing, tried to connect with app numerous times, failed every time.
Kept getting the below error.
Tried with multiple routers on different connections and multiple phone's.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15aoYI6qIDVZEQISSDHpjblBM030ek1bv/view?usp=drivesdk

JHet

Ok, did you try comparability pairing mode?

Also make sure you phone or router is set to 2.4ghz. Sonoffs can't do 5ghz which is the more common standard. You can set it back after its paired.

chrismon

JHet wrote: »

Ok, did you try comparability pairing mode?

Also make sure you phone or router is set to 2.4ghz. Sonoffs can't do 5ghz which is the more common standard. You can set it back after its paired.

Yeah I did both.
I'm going to send it back and get a different model.
Thanks for the help

listermint

Just wired in my th16 and temperature sensor to the heating system.

Delighted with result .

Old method was traipsing out to the hot press other end of the house beside the garage to swtich on a manual switch . And then the same when needed to turn it off.

This is a revolution. I reran some new 2.5mm t and e from the boiler to the hall as there was old 1.5 mm on the switch and it won't reach new location in the hall. Wanted the temp sensor somewhere more central.

Will look to put in more sensors in different rooms in future to automate more of the heating system with zonal reaction.

.very happy

Stoner

JHet wrote:

I'm wondering would it be safe to replace the Immersion switch with. I'm not sure I'd trust it entirely, would be pushing to limits of its rated load. I've heard others exercise similar caution, although JW on youtube did load test it and seemed to hold up well. Be interested to hear about anyway else who is using for this purpose and how they are finding it.

JW checked the 10 amp unit

The 16 amp is a lot bigger I've a couple with no use for them yet.
Adding a 13 amp fused spur unit before the 16 amps would be advisable, however, with the continuous load factor while heating up I would not use a SONOFF unit.


There is a timeguard fused wifi unit


I've a lightwaverf 3KW (13Amp) unit on my immersion.

I don't use it much but it works very well. I've had zero electrical or capacity issues with lightwaverf units rated up to 13 Amps

JHet

listermint wrote: »

Just wired in my th16 and temperature sensor to the heating system.

Delighted with result .

Old method was traipsing out to the hot press other end of the house beside the garage to swtich on a manual switch . And then the same when needed to turn it off.

This is a revolution. I reran some new 2.5mm t and e from the boiler to the hall as there was old 1.5 mm on the switch and it won't reach new location in the hall. Wanted the temp sensor somewhere more central.

Will look to put in more sensors in different rooms in future to automate more of the heating system with zonal reaction.

.very happy

Fantastic, glad to hear you got it all working.

So you just cut the temp sensor cable and spliced it in? Very good. I have some old CAT5. Could probably use a couple of cores out of that to do something similar. Mine is in a less than ideal location aswell.

What are you doing for cable management?

JHet

Stoner wrote: »

JW checked the 10 amp unit

The 16 amp is a lot bigger I've a couple with no use for them yet.
Adding a 13 amp fused spur unit before the 16 amps would be advisable, however, with the continuous load factor while heating up I would not use a SONOFF unit.


There is a timeguard fused wifi unit


I've a lightwaverf 3KW (13Amp) unit on my immersion.

I don't use it much but it works very well. I've had zero electrical or capacity issues with lightwaverf units rated up to 13 Amps

When opened there was actually a 20a fuse in it.

With the lightwaverf you still have the danger of the continuous load though, and it actually has a lower rating than the Sonoff which can take 3.5kw at 16amps.

In any event, I agree, putting any sort of continuous load through that kind of device is unwise.

I think by far the safest option, regardless of the device used, is to have an appropriately rated relay switching the continuous load, with the wifi device switching the relay on a separate circuit.

ED E

If you're buying Sonoff do so in the anticipation of flashing your own FW/running the service yourself.




A months downtime is not on for IoT. Now we see why they're cheap.

kenmc

ED E wrote: »

If you're buying Sonoff do so in the anticipation of flashing your own FW/running the service yourself.




A months downtime is not on for IoT. Now we see why they're cheap.

Just on that note, I've used tasmota for these for a long time, but had an issue with a recent build, they would reset every 15 mins or so, tried lots of things, went back to a very old version which I was running in old basic units, all well. Eventually got a good precompiled binary and all is well. Still not sure why the other binaries I pulled or compiled didn't work, but anyway.

The latest binaries are always here apparently
http://thehackbox.org/tasmota/

listermint

ED E wrote: »

If you're buying Sonoff do so in the anticipation of flashing your own FW/running the service yourself.




A months downtime is not on for IoT. Now we see why they're cheap.

Who's had a month downtime? Mines been working perfectly since I installed it 6 months ago.

Not saying I wouldn't flash them at some point . But they are cheap because it's cheap the manufacture. Other brands operate on their market name , theyre branding the ecosystem. But none of that's worth it if they too have downtime. It happens to all services.

No reason I wouldn't buy one.

kenmc

listermint wrote: »

Who's had a month downtime? Mines been working perfectly since I installed it 6 months ago

They also struggled around Xmas if I remember correctly. Too many new registrations or something, servers ground to a halt. Wouldn't be having that myself thanks very much.

listermint

kenmc wrote: »

They also struggled around Xmas if I remember correctly. Too many new registrations or something, servers ground to a halt. Wouldn't be having that myself thanks very much.

I've had the same with Xbox and playstation. These are huge companies that I pay an arm and a leg for monthly fees.


Thanks very much...

Perspective

kenmc

listermint wrote: »

I've had the same with Xbox and playstation. These are huge companies that I pay an arm and a leg for monthly fees.


Thanks very much...

Perspective

Pretty sure your heating isn't reliant on Xbox or Playstation servers being up though. But I'm not bothered since I don't rely on ewelink anyway, don't trust them.

getoffthepot

Had mine a year now and there was a glitch one day in that time for a server upgrade.
Got them for 5$ Each and can’t fault them

listermint

kenmc wrote: »

Pretty sure your heating isn't reliant on Xbox or Playstation servers being up though. But I'm not bothered since I don't rely on ewelink anyway, don't trust them.

Neither is my heating I can just turn it on from the button. Exactly the same as it was prior to installing the sonoff.


So... No loss. Only gain.

Stoner

JHet wrote:

With the lightwaverf you still have the danger of the continuous load though, and it actually has a lower rating than the Sonoff which can take 3.5kw at 16amps.

Thanks for the JW 16Amp video.

I understand that the lightwaverf has a lower rating, but it's designed for a continuous load.

That's a significant technical difference.

I have always advised to derate the SONOFF devices.

The difference here is that one device is designed in the UK and marketed as suitable for immersion heaters one is not

They have a range of wall switches designed for UK (and therefore our) electrical panel heaters.

As long as the load at or below the rated capacity of the lightwaverf unit there is no need to consider it as a risk needing a relay.

I've both units there is a substantial difference in weight and quality (and paperwork/certification)

Also the lightwaverf unit has a built in timer that you adjust with a screwdriver with a range of time from 30 sec to max of 8 hours, so unlike the SONOFF unit it has safeguard against being left on continuously,

(This is really to make sure it turns off if the RF signal to turn off was not sent as lightwaverf gen 1 is not state aware)

There are always safer ways to approach things with electricity, the switching a remote relay is certainly one but it's not necessary regarding the lightwaverf units if fused correctly.

The lightwaverf unit is in the bracket of hundreds of other electronic timers rated and designed to operate with continuous loads, the SONOFF unit is not, as a result I remain consistent in advising against their use on 3KW immersions.

durtybit

ED E wrote: »

If you're buying Sonoff do so in the anticipation of flashing your own FW/running the service yourself.




A months downtime is not on for IoT. Now we see why they're cheap.

I'd say in total I had about 2 days outage on and off, they sold that many and their servers got hammered. Been working without issue since they resolved it.

ED E

Sonoff run three geographic areas. Asian users (China AWS cluster) are the ones having issues.

ED E

EU and possibly others unstable/down this evening. vPoor uptime of late.

banie01

ED E wrote: »

EU and possibly others unstable/down this evening. vPoor uptime of late.

It's not just Sonoff either.
I'm having issues with Nest lately and they aren't running on AWS.

quazzy

hi all,

About 4 months ago, I purchased a Sonoff POW R2 and managed (eventually) to get it installed for my immersion. It works great. And I shared it with my OH so she can control it also.

But recently I purchased 3 plugin Sonoff controllers (for lights). I have only setup one so far and it works fine with the Sonoff app but when I go to share the device with my OH nothing happens. Anyone else experience this behaviour.

Somewhat related - I enabled the device for Google Home Assistant to recognize the immersion so I can control it via Google Assistant on my phone. and this works fine. When I tried to add the new Sonoff Plug (light switch) into Google Home it won't allow me to pick the Sonoff service.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Regards,